CHAPTER I
In this chapter, I will recommend a combination of cutting tools I believe you should include as part of your kit for a long-term bug-out situation. I will discuss each cutting tool in detail so you can select an appropriate combination.
In this chapter, I will recommend a combination of cutting tools I believe you should include as part of your kit for a long-term bug-out situation. I will discuss each cutting tool in detail so you can select an appropriate combination.
All the images used above were taken from Pixabay and are free for commercial use. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate image & uploader.
A cutting tool is an essential tool to include in your pack because it gives you the ability to:
[1] fell and process trees into manageable pieces.
[2] whittle and carve items from wood.
[3] prepare food.
[4] perform general utility tasks.
[5] A cutting tool can also be used as a weapon for self-defence, as just holding a sharp-edged tool may deter your pursuer from pursuing you.
For a more long-term situation, one cutting tool will not cut it (pun intended), as it will be difficult for a single tool to efficiently accomplish all the tasks mentioned above. Even if there were a cutting tool capable of performing all the tasks mentioned above, you would be putting an enormous amount of stress on it, increasing the chance of failure. Having one cutting tool would also mean you would have nothing left to fall back on if you were to lose your only cutting tool. This is why I believe in carrying a combination of cutting tools. Having the appropriate cutting tools for the appropriate tasks will alleviate stress on all tools while effectively accomplishing the task at hand. In short, a one-tool option is like an overworked employee on the verge of giving up, whereas choosing multiple cutting tools will work well together. I am going to split the cutting tools into four categories, which will cover all your processing needs. I believe you should have at least one tool from each of these categories.
A cutting tool is an essential tool to include in your pack because it gives you the ability to:
[1] fell and process trees into manageable pieces.
[2] whittle and carve items from wood.
[3] prepare food.
[4] perform general utility tasks.
[5] A cutting tool can also be used as a weapon for self-defence, as just holding a sharp-edged tool may deter your pursuer from pursuing you.
For a more long-term situation, one cutting tool will not cut it (pun intended), as it will be difficult for a single tool to efficiently accomplish all the tasks mentioned above. Even if there were a cutting tool capable of performing all the tasks mentioned above, you would be putting an enormous amount of stress on it, increasing the chance of failure. Having one cutting tool would also mean you would have nothing left to fall back on if you were to lose your only cutting tool. This is why I believe in carrying a combination of cutting tools. Having the appropriate cutting tools for the appropriate tasks will alleviate stress on all tools while effectively accomplishing the task at hand. In short, a one-tool option is like an overworked employee on the verge of giving up, whereas choosing multiple cutting tools will work well together. I am going to split the cutting tools into four categories, which will cover all your processing needs. I believe you should have at least one tool from each of these categories.
All the images used above were taken from Pixabay and are free for commercial use. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate image & uploader.
[1] Belt knife - An easy-to-access knife you will always have on your person for utility tasks, woodworking and food processing.
[2] Chopper - A tool that will do all your bigger tasks, like taking down trees and processing them into manageable pieces.
[3] Saw - A tool that will allow you to efficiently harvest wood without resorting to your chopper. A saw can also be used together with your chopper for effective wood processing.
[4] Multitool - A companion to go along with the rest of your tools. It is a tool that houses multiple other tools, including a thin carving blade for detail work. Carrying a multitool is like carrying a compact toolbox in your pocket.
I will now discuss each of these categories in depth. I will start with the belt knife.
Belt knife:
When choosing a belt knife, focus on knives that fall into the survival or bushcraft categories, as they should possess most, if not all, of the features you would want in a belt knife.
Length of the cutting blade -
The length of the cutting blade can be an important decision, and it all depends on what you want the blade to be able to accomplish. Shorter blades will be lighter in hand, making them easier to maneuver and control and suitable for tasks such as carving. Longer blades, on the other hand, tend to be thicker and heavier, allowing them to chop and split wood better than shorter blades. A 4-to-7-inch long blade will make for a well-balanced knife while still being comfortable to carry on your person at all times.
Thickness of the blade -
[1] Belt knife - An easy-to-access knife you will always have on your person for utility tasks, woodworking and food processing.
[2] Chopper - A tool that will do all your bigger tasks, like taking down trees and processing them into manageable pieces.
[3] Saw - A tool that will allow you to efficiently harvest wood without resorting to your chopper. A saw can also be used together with your chopper for effective wood processing.
[4] Multitool - A companion to go along with the rest of your tools. It is a tool that houses multiple other tools, including a thin carving blade for detail work. Carrying a multitool is like carrying a compact toolbox in your pocket.
I will now discuss each of these categories in depth. I will start with the belt knife.
Belt knife:
When choosing a belt knife, focus on knives that fall into the survival or bushcraft categories, as they should possess most, if not all, of the features you would want in a belt knife.
Length of the cutting blade -
The length of the cutting blade can be an important decision, and it all depends on what you want the blade to be able to accomplish. Shorter blades will be lighter in hand, making them easier to maneuver and control and suitable for tasks such as carving. Longer blades, on the other hand, tend to be thicker and heavier, allowing them to chop and split wood better than shorter blades. A 4-to-7-inch long blade will make for a well-balanced knife while still being comfortable to carry on your person at all times.
Thickness of the blade -
The image used above was created by me in Microsoft paint.
In general, thinner knives cut, carve and slice better than thicker knives, though thicker knives tend to be stronger and handle abuse better. If you want a strong knife, it needs to be thick. However, if you choose too thick of a knife, it will not cut as well. Considering that knives are designed to cut, carve and slice things, they are useless if they cannot effectively do that. A blade that is 3-to-4 millimeters (mm) thick will have a good-to-decent cutting ability while being durable enough to stand up to a little abuse. Going below 3mm will begin to decrease a knife's durability, and going above 4mm will begin to diminish its cutting ability. 4.7mm would be the absolute maximum thickness I recommend choosing, though I still suggest sticking between 3-to-4mm if you want a good slicer.
Type of grind -
In general, thinner knives cut, carve and slice better than thicker knives, though thicker knives tend to be stronger and handle abuse better. If you want a strong knife, it needs to be thick. However, if you choose too thick of a knife, it will not cut as well. Considering that knives are designed to cut, carve and slice things, they are useless if they cannot effectively do that. A blade that is 3-to-4 millimeters (mm) thick will have a good-to-decent cutting ability while being durable enough to stand up to a little abuse. Going below 3mm will begin to decrease a knife's durability, and going above 4mm will begin to diminish its cutting ability. 4.7mm would be the absolute maximum thickness I recommend choosing, though I still suggest sticking between 3-to-4mm if you want a good slicer.
Type of grind -
The image used above was created by me in Microsoft paint.
The grind of a knife is another factor that can play a key role in how well a knife will cut.
The grind of a knife is another factor that can play a key role in how well a knife will cut.
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
So that you understand the importance of knife grinds, above, I have presented two knives I own: the TOPS BOB Fieldcraft and the KABAR BK-10. The Fieldcraft knife has a Scandinavian grind, also known as "Scandi," and the BK-10 has a sabre grind. The Fieldcraft is 5mm thick, and the BK-10 is 4.7mm thick. In theory, the BK-10 should outperform the Fieldcraft because it has a thinner blade. However, this is not the case, as the Fieldcraft noticeably performs better. This is solely due to the grind. Certain grinds will allow a knife to cut effectively, even if the blade is thick.
So that you understand the importance of knife grinds, above, I have presented two knives I own: the TOPS BOB Fieldcraft and the KABAR BK-10. The Fieldcraft knife has a Scandinavian grind, also known as "Scandi," and the BK-10 has a sabre grind. The Fieldcraft is 5mm thick, and the BK-10 is 4.7mm thick. In theory, the BK-10 should outperform the Fieldcraft because it has a thinner blade. However, this is not the case, as the Fieldcraft noticeably performs better. This is solely due to the grind. Certain grinds will allow a knife to cut effectively, even if the blade is thick.
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
Additionally, two knives can have the same grind and thickness, yet one may still outperform the other. Above, I have presented two knives (BK7 & BK10) with the same grind (sabre). Both knives have a blade height of 4cm and are 4.7mm thick. The only major difference is at the point where the primary bevels are ground. The BK-7 has a high sabre grind, while the BK-10 has a low sabre grind. The high sabre grind on the BK-7 allows the primary bevel to stretch out slightly further, 2.9cm, 0.55cm more than the BK-10. This makes the cutting edge thinner, allowing it to outperform the BK-10.
Additionally, two knives can have the same grind and thickness, yet one may still outperform the other. Above, I have presented two knives (BK7 & BK10) with the same grind (sabre). Both knives have a blade height of 4cm and are 4.7mm thick. The only major difference is at the point where the primary bevels are ground. The BK-7 has a high sabre grind, while the BK-10 has a low sabre grind. The high sabre grind on the BK-7 allows the primary bevel to stretch out slightly further, 2.9cm, 0.55cm more than the BK-10. This makes the cutting edge thinner, allowing it to outperform the BK-10.
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
Above, I have presented a few more examples. All of the knives above have a Scandi grind. However, some have a higher Scandi grind than others. This will affect the knife's cutting performance and lifespan.
Now that you briefly understand the importance of knife grinds, I am going to discuss the common grinds found on knives today. I will start with the hollow grind.
1) Hollow grind -
Above, I have presented a few more examples. All of the knives above have a Scandi grind. However, some have a higher Scandi grind than others. This will affect the knife's cutting performance and lifespan.
Now that you briefly understand the importance of knife grinds, I am going to discuss the common grinds found on knives today. I will start with the hollow grind.
1) Hollow grind -
Image 1 was created by me in Microsoft Paint. Image 2 was taken by me from my smartphone.
Hollow-ground knives have an extremely thin cutting edge, allowing them to slice through pretty much anything with ease. This is why straight razors used for shaving are typically hollow-ground. A thin, hollow-ground blade will be effective for tasks such as carving and food preparation, though it may be fragile for heavy-duty tasks such as batoning, chopping, and prying. Batoning is the technique of driving a knife through a piece of wood with the intent of splitting it by repeatedly hitting its spine with a log or a mallet. Chopping and prying are pretty much self-explanatory. The thickness of the blade and how deep it is ground will determine how fragile a hollow-ground knife is. There are hollow-ground knives out there that can successfully handle the heavy-duty tasks mentioned above. However, I believe a hollow grind will be more effective on a thinner, smaller companion-style blade and not on your main knife.
Hollow-ground knives have an extremely thin cutting edge, allowing them to slice through pretty much anything with ease. This is why straight razors used for shaving are typically hollow-ground. A thin, hollow-ground blade will be effective for tasks such as carving and food preparation, though it may be fragile for heavy-duty tasks such as batoning, chopping, and prying. Batoning is the technique of driving a knife through a piece of wood with the intent of splitting it by repeatedly hitting its spine with a log or a mallet. Chopping and prying are pretty much self-explanatory. The thickness of the blade and how deep it is ground will determine how fragile a hollow-ground knife is. There are hollow-ground knives out there that can successfully handle the heavy-duty tasks mentioned above. However, I believe a hollow grind will be more effective on a thinner, smaller companion-style blade and not on your main knife.
The images used above were created by me in Microsoft Paint 3D.
Every time a knife is sharpened, metal is removed from the blade. Years of sharpening will cause the cutting edge to climb higher. As this happens, a knife's cutting performance begins to diminish because it is becoming thicker behind the edge. Because a hollow-ground knife is ground thin from the very start, it will retain its cutting ability better than the other grinds I will discuss.
Note: If your knife's cutting ability begins to diminish, reprofiling (thinning the cutting edge) or sharpening the blade at a lower angle should increase cutting performance.
2) Full flat grind -
Every time a knife is sharpened, metal is removed from the blade. Years of sharpening will cause the cutting edge to climb higher. As this happens, a knife's cutting performance begins to diminish because it is becoming thicker behind the edge. Because a hollow-ground knife is ground thin from the very start, it will retain its cutting ability better than the other grinds I will discuss.
Note: If your knife's cutting ability begins to diminish, reprofiling (thinning the cutting edge) or sharpening the blade at a lower angle should increase cutting performance.
2) Full flat grind -
Image 1 was created by me in Microsoft Paint. Image 2 was taken by me from my smartphone.
A full flat grind is the most versatile grind you can have on a knife. It is used on various kinds of knives, such as survival, hunting, pocket, and even kitchen knives. This grind will be suitable for carving, food preparation and heavy-duty tasks. It is a decent all-around grind to have on a belt knife.
3) Convex grind -
A full flat grind is the most versatile grind you can have on a knife. It is used on various kinds of knives, such as survival, hunting, pocket, and even kitchen knives. This grind will be suitable for carving, food preparation and heavy-duty tasks. It is a decent all-around grind to have on a belt knife.
3) Convex grind -
Image 1 was created by me in Microsoft Paint. Image 2 was taken by me from my smartphone.
The convex grind is the most stable grind you can have on a knife. This particular grind strengthens the cutting edge, making it tough enough to handle heavy-duty tasks with ease, which is why it is commonly found on axes. It is a good, strong grind, though it can be challenging to sharpen for a novice.
4) Scandinavian grind -
The convex grind is the most stable grind you can have on a knife. This particular grind strengthens the cutting edge, making it tough enough to handle heavy-duty tasks with ease, which is why it is commonly found on axes. It is a good, strong grind, though it can be challenging to sharpen for a novice.
4) Scandinavian grind -
Image 1 was created by me in Microsoft Paint. Image 2 was taken by me from my smartphone.
Bushcraft is the skills needed to survive in the bush or wild. It is essentially real-life Minecraft. A major part of bushcraft is knowing how to craft items in the field, hence the name "bushcraft." Crafting would imply a knife that excels at carving. The scandi grind cuts and carves extremely well, which is why almost all bushcraft knives have this grind on them. This is a woodsman's go-to grind because of its exceptional cutting prowess.
Bushcraft is the skills needed to survive in the bush or wild. It is essentially real-life Minecraft. A major part of bushcraft is knowing how to craft items in the field, hence the name "bushcraft." Crafting would imply a knife that excels at carving. The scandi grind cuts and carves extremely well, which is why almost all bushcraft knives have this grind on them. This is a woodsman's go-to grind because of its exceptional cutting prowess.
The images used above were created by me in Microsoft Paint 3D.
Knives that cut and carve remarkably well tend to have a fragile cutting edge. This is true when it comes to a true scandi-ground knife. A true scandi-ground knife is one where the primary bevel on each side meets at the edge. Though a brilliant woodworking knife, the edge will be prone to damage when undertaking heavy-duty tasks. This issue can be resolved by adding a secondary bevel to the knife, making it a scandi-vex. A secondary bevel will strengthen the cutting edge, preventing chips and rolls from occurring easily. Unfortunately, it will also take away from the knife's cutting performance, which will depend on how prominent a secondary bevel you add to the cutting edge. The sharpening angles on a true scandi-ground knife are the easiest to find, making it easier to sharpen. In my personal opinion, a scandi-ground knife with a secondary bevel will be easier to sharpen in the field once you get used to the sharpening angles. Overall, a good grind to have on a belt knife.
5) Sabre grind -
Knives that cut and carve remarkably well tend to have a fragile cutting edge. This is true when it comes to a true scandi-ground knife. A true scandi-ground knife is one where the primary bevel on each side meets at the edge. Though a brilliant woodworking knife, the edge will be prone to damage when undertaking heavy-duty tasks. This issue can be resolved by adding a secondary bevel to the knife, making it a scandi-vex. A secondary bevel will strengthen the cutting edge, preventing chips and rolls from occurring easily. Unfortunately, it will also take away from the knife's cutting performance, which will depend on how prominent a secondary bevel you add to the cutting edge. The sharpening angles on a true scandi-ground knife are the easiest to find, making it easier to sharpen. In my personal opinion, a scandi-ground knife with a secondary bevel will be easier to sharpen in the field once you get used to the sharpening angles. Overall, a good grind to have on a belt knife.
5) Sabre grind -
Image 1 was created by me in Microsoft Paint. Image 2 was taken by me from my smartphone.
A sabre grind is somewhat similar to a scandi grind with a secondary bevel. However, the secondary bevel on a sabre-ground knife is much more pronounced, making the cutting edge more durable. This means a sabre-ground knife will not cut as well as a scandi-ground knife, though it will be tougher when it comes to heavy-duty tasks, such as batoning, chopping and prying. The sabre grind is often used on survival knives because of its toughness. This grind is suitable for a belt knife.
6) Chisel grind -
A sabre grind is somewhat similar to a scandi grind with a secondary bevel. However, the secondary bevel on a sabre-ground knife is much more pronounced, making the cutting edge more durable. This means a sabre-ground knife will not cut as well as a scandi-ground knife, though it will be tougher when it comes to heavy-duty tasks, such as batoning, chopping and prying. The sabre grind is often used on survival knives because of its toughness. This grind is suitable for a belt knife.
6) Chisel grind -
Image 1 was created by me in Microsoft Paint. Images 2 & 3 were taken by me from my smartphone.
A chisel-ground knife has a bevel on one side while the other side remains completely flat. Theoretically, this grind should be the quickest to sharpen as you only have to sharpen one side. I have had difficulties sharpening this particular grind, possibly due to my lack of experience with chisel-ground knives. That said, I have not had any issues with the other grinds from above. I personally do not find this grind to be suitable on a belt knife, and therefore, I cannot recommend it.
Note: Scandi, sabre, full flat and convex are all viable grind options. If you are unsure which one to choose, you cannot go wrong with a full flat grind.
Knife tang -
The tang of a knife is the portion of the blade that extends into the handle. This is another crucial factor that will significantly affect a knife's robustness. There are four main types of tangs, and I will discuss them below.
A chisel-ground knife has a bevel on one side while the other side remains completely flat. Theoretically, this grind should be the quickest to sharpen as you only have to sharpen one side. I have had difficulties sharpening this particular grind, possibly due to my lack of experience with chisel-ground knives. That said, I have not had any issues with the other grinds from above. I personally do not find this grind to be suitable on a belt knife, and therefore, I cannot recommend it.
Note: Scandi, sabre, full flat and convex are all viable grind options. If you are unsure which one to choose, you cannot go wrong with a full flat grind.
Knife tang -
The tang of a knife is the portion of the blade that extends into the handle. This is another crucial factor that will significantly affect a knife's robustness. There are four main types of tangs, and I will discuss them below.
The image of the blade above was taken from the MORAKNIV website. It is slightly modified. Clicking on the image will take you to the original blade and webpage.
A partial tang is the weakest tang out of the four. It is just a little stub that enters the handle about three-quarters of the way, sometimes even less. I highly recommend avoiding partial-tang knives because they are likely to fail under the slightest amount of stress. Partial tang knives are designed for basic cutting tasks, and that is it.
A partial tang is the weakest tang out of the four. It is just a little stub that enters the handle about three-quarters of the way, sometimes even less. I highly recommend avoiding partial-tang knives because they are likely to fail under the slightest amount of stress. Partial tang knives are designed for basic cutting tasks, and that is it.
The image of the blade above was taken from the MORAKNIV website. Clicking on the image will take you to the appropriate blade and webpage.
A stick tang, also known as a rat-tail tang, is an upgrade from a partial tang. It will be plenty strong for cutting tasks and even handle some light abuse from heavy-duty tasks such as batoning. Not all stick tang knives are created equal, and some will handle more abuse than others. A stick tang knife is not the strongest, but it is also not the weakest.
A stick tang, also known as a rat-tail tang, is an upgrade from a partial tang. It will be plenty strong for cutting tasks and even handle some light abuse from heavy-duty tasks such as batoning. Not all stick tang knives are created equal, and some will handle more abuse than others. A stick tang knife is not the strongest, but it is also not the weakest.
The image of the blade above was taken from the HEINNIE HAYNES website. It is slightly edited. Clicking on the image will take you to the original blade and webpage.
A full tang is the strongest of all the tangs. It will accomplish tasks such as cutting and carving without breaking a sweat and is less likely to fail when undertaking heavy-duty tasks such as batoning, chopping and prying. A knife being full tang means it is extremely strong, which is why survival knives are usually full tang.
A full tang is the strongest of all the tangs. It will accomplish tasks such as cutting and carving without breaking a sweat and is less likely to fail when undertaking heavy-duty tasks such as batoning, chopping and prying. A knife being full tang means it is extremely strong, which is why survival knives are usually full tang.
The image of the blade above was taken by me from my smartphone.
A skeletonized tang is technically a full tang. However, reductions are made on the tang to reduce the knife's overall weight. This means it will not be as strong as an actual full-tang knife, though it will be stronger than a partial tang and a stick tang knife. This is a good choice for humans looking for a strong but lighter knife.
A skeletonized tang is technically a full tang. However, reductions are made on the tang to reduce the knife's overall weight. This means it will not be as strong as an actual full-tang knife, though it will be stronger than a partial tang and a stick tang knife. This is a good choice for humans looking for a strong but lighter knife.
The image of the blank blade above was taken from the Knives and Tools website. Clicking on the image will take you to the original blade and webpage.
A blank blade is a blade sold without a handle. It is up to the buyer to fix a handle on the blade themselves. For some, buying a blank blade and putting a handle on it themselves works out cheaper, which is why some opt for this approach. Though this particular blank blade above is full tang, there are way too many holes in it. The more holes you make in something, the weaker that thing becomes. I am trying to make the point that full tang does not necessarily mean an indestructible knife. You should still take proper care when using it for tasks such as batoning, chopping and prying. If you are able to see the blank blade of the knife you desire to buy, you will be able to gauge its strength. Fewer holes and reductions in a blade will mean a stronger knife. On the other hand, a lot of missing material from a blade will make a knife more susceptible to failure when undertaking heavy-duty tasks.
A knife's original purpose is to cut, carve and slice, though there may be times when you have to abuse your knife and use it for heavy-duty tasks such as batoning, chopping and prying. I label these tasks as abusive because every time I have seen a knife fail, it was because it was used to baton, chop or pry with. By batoning, you risk the blade breaking in two. By chopping, you risk the cutting edge becoming damaged. And by prying, you risk the tip or blade being snapped. I have personally never seen a knife fail from cutting, carving or slicing. I am not saying you should never baton, chop or pry with your knife. Instead, acknowledge the strengths and weaknesses of your knife and use it accordingly.
Steel -
A blank blade is a blade sold without a handle. It is up to the buyer to fix a handle on the blade themselves. For some, buying a blank blade and putting a handle on it themselves works out cheaper, which is why some opt for this approach. Though this particular blank blade above is full tang, there are way too many holes in it. The more holes you make in something, the weaker that thing becomes. I am trying to make the point that full tang does not necessarily mean an indestructible knife. You should still take proper care when using it for tasks such as batoning, chopping and prying. If you are able to see the blank blade of the knife you desire to buy, you will be able to gauge its strength. Fewer holes and reductions in a blade will mean a stronger knife. On the other hand, a lot of missing material from a blade will make a knife more susceptible to failure when undertaking heavy-duty tasks.
A knife's original purpose is to cut, carve and slice, though there may be times when you have to abuse your knife and use it for heavy-duty tasks such as batoning, chopping and prying. I label these tasks as abusive because every time I have seen a knife fail, it was because it was used to baton, chop or pry with. By batoning, you risk the blade breaking in two. By chopping, you risk the cutting edge becoming damaged. And by prying, you risk the tip or blade being snapped. I have personally never seen a knife fail from cutting, carving or slicing. I am not saying you should never baton, chop or pry with your knife. Instead, acknowledge the strengths and weaknesses of your knife and use it accordingly.
Steel -
The images used above were taken from Pixabay and are free for commercial use. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate image & uploader.
The steel from which the blade is made is also important because it will determine a knife's:
1) Edge retention - how long will it remain sharp?
2) Toughness - how much abuse can it take without breaking?
3) Ease of sharpening - how easy is it to re-sharpen?
4) Corrosion resistance - how competent is it at resisting rust?
Heat treatment -
Heat treatment is a crucial part of knife making and consists of three main steps: normalising, hardening and tempering. It is the hardening process of the steel and directly impacts a knife's edge retention, ease of sharpening and toughness. The hardness of the knife has to be just right. The blade should not be overly hard or overly soft. If the knife blade is overly hard, the cutting edge will be prone to chipping because it is so brittle. However, it will remain sharper for longer and will not need to be sharpened as often, though it will take longer to sharpen once it becomes dull. An overly soft blade, on the other hand, will not hold a sharp edge for very long and require constant sharpening, which can get very annoying. It will, however, be quicker to re-sharpen because of the soft steel. Softer steels are prone to rolling rather than chipping when undertaking heavy-duty tasks. Rolling of the cutting edge is better than chipping, though neither is preferable. When performing stressful tasks such as batoning or prying, softer steels are likely to bend, whereas harder steels are likely to break. Bending is better than breaking because a deformed blade can be bent back into its original form. On the other hand, a blade broken in two is pretty much unrecoverable, though depending on where the blade snapped, you may still be able to use it.
Differential heat treatment -
The steel from which the blade is made is also important because it will determine a knife's:
1) Edge retention - how long will it remain sharp?
2) Toughness - how much abuse can it take without breaking?
3) Ease of sharpening - how easy is it to re-sharpen?
4) Corrosion resistance - how competent is it at resisting rust?
Heat treatment -
Heat treatment is a crucial part of knife making and consists of three main steps: normalising, hardening and tempering. It is the hardening process of the steel and directly impacts a knife's edge retention, ease of sharpening and toughness. The hardness of the knife has to be just right. The blade should not be overly hard or overly soft. If the knife blade is overly hard, the cutting edge will be prone to chipping because it is so brittle. However, it will remain sharper for longer and will not need to be sharpened as often, though it will take longer to sharpen once it becomes dull. An overly soft blade, on the other hand, will not hold a sharp edge for very long and require constant sharpening, which can get very annoying. It will, however, be quicker to re-sharpen because of the soft steel. Softer steels are prone to rolling rather than chipping when undertaking heavy-duty tasks. Rolling of the cutting edge is better than chipping, though neither is preferable. When performing stressful tasks such as batoning or prying, softer steels are likely to bend, whereas harder steels are likely to break. Bending is better than breaking because a deformed blade can be bent back into its original form. On the other hand, a blade broken in two is pretty much unrecoverable, though depending on where the blade snapped, you may still be able to use it.
Differential heat treatment -
The image used above was taken from Pixabay and is free for commercial use. Clicking on the image will take you to the original image & uploader.
Differential heat treatment, or selective heat treatment, is a technique used during the hardening process. It allows a certain portion of the blade to be hard while the rest is kept soft. Knifemakers who use this technique will typically keep the spine area soft and make the cutting edge hard. This gives a knife good edge retention while being tough enough to handle abuse without breaking in two. Knives that are differentially heat treated (not all are) usually have a spine around 56HRC and a cutting edge around 58HRC.
What is HRC? HRC stands for "Hardness Rockwell C." It is a hardness rating that measures how hard steel is. A higher rating indicates harder steel, while a lower rating indicates softer steel. A higher rating does not necessarily mean a better knife. Remember that hard steels can be difficult to resharpen. For a belt knife, I recommend a cutting edge between 58-to 60HRC. 57HRC is the lowest I recommend.
Viable steel options -
Differential heat treatment, or selective heat treatment, is a technique used during the hardening process. It allows a certain portion of the blade to be hard while the rest is kept soft. Knifemakers who use this technique will typically keep the spine area soft and make the cutting edge hard. This gives a knife good edge retention while being tough enough to handle abuse without breaking in two. Knives that are differentially heat treated (not all are) usually have a spine around 56HRC and a cutting edge around 58HRC.
What is HRC? HRC stands for "Hardness Rockwell C." It is a hardness rating that measures how hard steel is. A higher rating indicates harder steel, while a lower rating indicates softer steel. A higher rating does not necessarily mean a better knife. Remember that hard steels can be difficult to resharpen. For a belt knife, I recommend a cutting edge between 58-to 60HRC. 57HRC is the lowest I recommend.
Viable steel options -
The image above was created by me in Microsoft Paint 3D.
As you can see above, there are many different knife steels. In reality, this is just a small fraction of what is actually available. I have tried to list some of the more common steels used to make knives today and split them into two categories: premium & high-end and mid-range & budget. Though premium & high-end steels will have superior edge retention, improved corrosion resistance, and may even be stronger, I do not recommend them for a belt knife. This is mainly because they will be harder to work with in the field. They will take longer to re-sharpen, be harder to repair once the cutting edge becomes damaged, and be expensive to buy. Mid-range & budget steels, on the other hand, will be quicker to re-sharpen, easier to repair, and more affordable. I have highlighted a few steels from the mid-range & budget category above. The highlighted steels and any steel comparable to them are viable steel choices, in my opinion. I will now further rearrange these steels into two more categories so you can better understand them.
As you can see above, there are many different knife steels. In reality, this is just a small fraction of what is actually available. I have tried to list some of the more common steels used to make knives today and split them into two categories: premium & high-end and mid-range & budget. Though premium & high-end steels will have superior edge retention, improved corrosion resistance, and may even be stronger, I do not recommend them for a belt knife. This is mainly because they will be harder to work with in the field. They will take longer to re-sharpen, be harder to repair once the cutting edge becomes damaged, and be expensive to buy. Mid-range & budget steels, on the other hand, will be quicker to re-sharpen, easier to repair, and more affordable. I have highlighted a few steels from the mid-range & budget category above. The highlighted steels and any steel comparable to them are viable steel choices, in my opinion. I will now further rearrange these steels into two more categories so you can better understand them.
The image above was created by me in Microsoft Paint 3D.
The steels listed in the LCR section are more prone to rust and corrosion than those listed in the HCR section. This means LCR steels will need more care, which will entail things like wiping the knife's blade clean after use, especially after processing acidic foods like tomatoes and lemons. If left unchecked, rust will begin to form and eat away at your knife's steel, creating pits in the blade and weakening it. This will, however, happen over time. Regular inspection and maintenance will prevent major damage from occurring. This does not mean the steels listed in the HCR section will never rust. Stainless steels have a higher chromium content in their makeup, allowing them to resist rust much better than LCR steels. Given the right circumstances, even a stainless steel blade will begin to rust and corrode. Because stainless steel requires less care, it is naturally a good option. In an overly wet or humid environment, a stainless steel blade may just be a necessity. Other than that, both carbon and tool steel are not bad options.
In general, tool steel tends to be harder than both carbon and stainless steel, allowing it to remain sharper for longer, though it can be difficult to sharpen once it becomes dull. Tool steel will also resist rust better than carbon steel, but not stainless steel. Though more prone to rust, a high-carbon steel blade will be tougher and better suited for heavy-duty tasks than both tool steel and stainless steel. In my personal opinion, I believe inexperienced users should avoid tool steel and stick with stainless or carbon steel, as tool steel may be difficult to work with in the field.
Oxidation & Rust -
The steels listed in the LCR section are more prone to rust and corrosion than those listed in the HCR section. This means LCR steels will need more care, which will entail things like wiping the knife's blade clean after use, especially after processing acidic foods like tomatoes and lemons. If left unchecked, rust will begin to form and eat away at your knife's steel, creating pits in the blade and weakening it. This will, however, happen over time. Regular inspection and maintenance will prevent major damage from occurring. This does not mean the steels listed in the HCR section will never rust. Stainless steels have a higher chromium content in their makeup, allowing them to resist rust much better than LCR steels. Given the right circumstances, even a stainless steel blade will begin to rust and corrode. Because stainless steel requires less care, it is naturally a good option. In an overly wet or humid environment, a stainless steel blade may just be a necessity. Other than that, both carbon and tool steel are not bad options.
In general, tool steel tends to be harder than both carbon and stainless steel, allowing it to remain sharper for longer, though it can be difficult to sharpen once it becomes dull. Tool steel will also resist rust better than carbon steel, but not stainless steel. Though more prone to rust, a high-carbon steel blade will be tougher and better suited for heavy-duty tasks than both tool steel and stainless steel. In my personal opinion, I believe inexperienced users should avoid tool steel and stick with stainless or carbon steel, as tool steel may be difficult to work with in the field.
Oxidation & Rust -
The images used above were taken from Pixabay and are free for commercial use. Clicking on each image will take you to the original image & uploader.
Speaking of rust, there are two kinds: patina and red rust.
[1] Patina - A patina is a greyish-black layer and naturally occurs on LCR steels like 1095 over time. Though rust is seen as a bad thing, which it is, a patina is not bad. It is a thin layer of oxidation that will assist in resisting the bad type of rust, red rust. There are many humans who intentionally perform a "forced patina" on their knives to protect them against red rust and corrosion. It may take years for a patina to form naturally on a blade, which is why some humans like to speed up the process by manually applying it. A patina is a thin layer; thus, it is not a permanent coating. It will rub, scrape and scratch off as you regularly use the knife.
[2] Red rust - Red rust is the type of rust you do not want on your cutting tool. Allowing red rust to reside on your blade can corrode and weaken it, though this will happen in the long term. Red rust forms on steel when exposed to things like salty water, humidity, condensation, etc. In the early stages of development, rust will be easier to remove. Simply rubbing a paste made from gritty mud and water on the rusted surface should remove it. Remember, it will take years of neglect for the rust to do some serious damage, so do not be frightened of red rust; just be mindful of it.
Coatings & Finishes -
Speaking of rust, there are two kinds: patina and red rust.
[1] Patina - A patina is a greyish-black layer and naturally occurs on LCR steels like 1095 over time. Though rust is seen as a bad thing, which it is, a patina is not bad. It is a thin layer of oxidation that will assist in resisting the bad type of rust, red rust. There are many humans who intentionally perform a "forced patina" on their knives to protect them against red rust and corrosion. It may take years for a patina to form naturally on a blade, which is why some humans like to speed up the process by manually applying it. A patina is a thin layer; thus, it is not a permanent coating. It will rub, scrape and scratch off as you regularly use the knife.
[2] Red rust - Red rust is the type of rust you do not want on your cutting tool. Allowing red rust to reside on your blade can corrode and weaken it, though this will happen in the long term. Red rust forms on steel when exposed to things like salty water, humidity, condensation, etc. In the early stages of development, rust will be easier to remove. Simply rubbing a paste made from gritty mud and water on the rusted surface should remove it. Remember, it will take years of neglect for the rust to do some serious damage, so do not be frightened of red rust; just be mindful of it.
Coatings & Finishes -
Image 1 was taken from the official ESEE website. Images 2 & 3 were taken from the official TOPS website. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
Many manufacturers cover their knife blades with an assortment of coatings and finishes. The coating or finish forms a barrier and protects the bare blade from coming into contact with anything that will cause it to rust. Above are some examples of coatings and finishes used on knives today.
Many manufacturers cover their knife blades with an assortment of coatings and finishes. The coating or finish forms a barrier and protects the bare blade from coming into contact with anything that will cause it to rust. Above are some examples of coatings and finishes used on knives today.
The image above was taken from the BladeOps website. Clicking on the image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
When cutting something with a knife, the cutting edge bites in, and as you are pushing to make the cut, the material you are gliding through is scraping across the primary bevel. If the knife is fully coated, it will create friction, decreasing its cutting performance. The amount of friction created is dependent on the texture of the coating. Some coatings are smooth, while others are rough. It is the rough coatings that will diminish a knife's cutting performance, which is why some humans choose to strip the coating from their knives. These coatings are not permanent and will eventually begin to scrape and scratch off the more you use your knife. Nonetheless, they will help with maintenance for the duration of their lives.
A mirror polish is another option for deterring rust from forming on your cutting tool. It is the process of making the blade of your cutting tool shiny to the point where you can plainly see your own reflection. Rust will have difficulty forming on a shiny surface, though scratches from regular use will be easily visible. Other than that, regularly applying a lubricant to the blade will protect it from rust. Lubricants are discussed in the [VII] MAINTENANCE chapter.
Knife brands -
When cutting something with a knife, the cutting edge bites in, and as you are pushing to make the cut, the material you are gliding through is scraping across the primary bevel. If the knife is fully coated, it will create friction, decreasing its cutting performance. The amount of friction created is dependent on the texture of the coating. Some coatings are smooth, while others are rough. It is the rough coatings that will diminish a knife's cutting performance, which is why some humans choose to strip the coating from their knives. These coatings are not permanent and will eventually begin to scrape and scratch off the more you use your knife. Nonetheless, they will help with maintenance for the duration of their lives.
A mirror polish is another option for deterring rust from forming on your cutting tool. It is the process of making the blade of your cutting tool shiny to the point where you can plainly see your own reflection. Rust will have difficulty forming on a shiny surface, though scratches from regular use will be easily visible. Other than that, regularly applying a lubricant to the blade will protect it from rust. Lubricants are discussed in the [VII] MAINTENANCE chapter.
Knife brands -
The image above was compiled using multiple brand logos I found on google images.
Many companies manufacture knives, as you can see above. Does the brand of the knife really matter? Yes, it does. Each company is a separate entity with its own set of procedures. As a result, if two companies were to create a knife with the same length, thickness, grind and steel, both knives would be completely different. For example, the companies KABAR and ESEE both produce knives using 1095 high-carbon steel. However, KABAR uses a slightly different variant of 1095, known as 1095 Cro-Van. In addition, ESEE is known to harden their blades to 57HRC while KABAR differentially heat treats their blades to 56-58HRC (spine to 56 and cutting edge to 58). Handle ergonomics will also differ from company to company. The handle of a knife determines the knife's comfort and grip. Having adequate leverage to maneuver and control a blade is a crucial part of a knife and could even make or break it. The point at which the blade is ground, how deep it is ground, and the sharpening angles of the cutting edge are a couple of other differentiating factors.
Above, I have presented some credible companies that make dependable knives. I highly recommend doing your own research on these companies and the knives they produce so you may find a suitable belt knife for yourself.
Handle materials -
A handle is one of the most important components of a knife. If a knife is uncomfortable in your hand, no matter how good the cutting blade is, you will not be able to use it for very long. How comfortable a knife's handle is, is subjective and will vary from user to user. The only way to truly find out is to hold and use the knife for yourself. Besides comfortability, the handle's material is also important because it determines its durability and the amount of care required to maintain it. Below, I will discuss the common materials used to make knife handles today. I will start with wood.
Many companies manufacture knives, as you can see above. Does the brand of the knife really matter? Yes, it does. Each company is a separate entity with its own set of procedures. As a result, if two companies were to create a knife with the same length, thickness, grind and steel, both knives would be completely different. For example, the companies KABAR and ESEE both produce knives using 1095 high-carbon steel. However, KABAR uses a slightly different variant of 1095, known as 1095 Cro-Van. In addition, ESEE is known to harden their blades to 57HRC while KABAR differentially heat treats their blades to 56-58HRC (spine to 56 and cutting edge to 58). Handle ergonomics will also differ from company to company. The handle of a knife determines the knife's comfort and grip. Having adequate leverage to maneuver and control a blade is a crucial part of a knife and could even make or break it. The point at which the blade is ground, how deep it is ground, and the sharpening angles of the cutting edge are a couple of other differentiating factors.
Above, I have presented some credible companies that make dependable knives. I highly recommend doing your own research on these companies and the knives they produce so you may find a suitable belt knife for yourself.
Handle materials -
A handle is one of the most important components of a knife. If a knife is uncomfortable in your hand, no matter how good the cutting blade is, you will not be able to use it for very long. How comfortable a knife's handle is, is subjective and will vary from user to user. The only way to truly find out is to hold and use the knife for yourself. Besides comfortability, the handle's material is also important because it determines its durability and the amount of care required to maintain it. Below, I will discuss the common materials used to make knife handles today. I will start with wood.
The image above was taken from the Knives and Tools website. Clicking on the image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
Wood is a natural material that is widely accessible and commonly used to make handles for knives. It is the weakest of all the materials I will discuss and high maintenance. If not maintained with a wood preservative like boiled linseed oil, it could begin to dry out and crack, rot, and even shrink, depending on the temperature. You will not be able to carry an indefinite supply of wood preservative in your pack and eventually run out. There are knives with stabilized wooden handles available today that require less maintenance. However, I recommend avoiding wood altogether because of how fragile it can be. When using your belt knife for heavy-duty tasks like batoning, there may be times when your knife will get stuck in a piece of wood. In order to free the knife, you may have to strike the handle. Because wood is weak, you will risk breaking the handle.
Wood is a natural material that is widely accessible and commonly used to make handles for knives. It is the weakest of all the materials I will discuss and high maintenance. If not maintained with a wood preservative like boiled linseed oil, it could begin to dry out and crack, rot, and even shrink, depending on the temperature. You will not be able to carry an indefinite supply of wood preservative in your pack and eventually run out. There are knives with stabilized wooden handles available today that require less maintenance. However, I recommend avoiding wood altogether because of how fragile it can be. When using your belt knife for heavy-duty tasks like batoning, there may be times when your knife will get stuck in a piece of wood. In order to free the knife, you may have to strike the handle. Because wood is weak, you will risk breaking the handle.
The image above was taken from the Knives and Tools website. Clicking on the image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
Micarta is usually made up of layers of cotton or linen canvas impregnated with resin. Pressure is applied to these resin-fused layers to create a block of micarta from which the actual scales are made. Micarta is wear-resistant, weather-resistant, and extremely durable, which is why many manufacturers use it to make handles for their knives. There are two types of micarta: sealed and unsealed. Unsealed micarta is porous and is the one commonly used on survival knives. This means it will absorb things like sweat, water, blood, etc. Many humans admire unsealed micarta's porous property because the handle becomes grippier as it gets wet, allowing for a sufficient grip and decreasing the chance of the knife slipping out of hand in wet conditions. Unfortunately, being porous also means absorbing and retaining bacteria, potentially becoming a major hygiene issue. Micarta can be regularly cleansed with water, though this will make it maintenance-heavy. Sealed micarta, on the other hand, may be a viable option, though I recommend doing more of your own research on this.
Micarta is usually made up of layers of cotton or linen canvas impregnated with resin. Pressure is applied to these resin-fused layers to create a block of micarta from which the actual scales are made. Micarta is wear-resistant, weather-resistant, and extremely durable, which is why many manufacturers use it to make handles for their knives. There are two types of micarta: sealed and unsealed. Unsealed micarta is porous and is the one commonly used on survival knives. This means it will absorb things like sweat, water, blood, etc. Many humans admire unsealed micarta's porous property because the handle becomes grippier as it gets wet, allowing for a sufficient grip and decreasing the chance of the knife slipping out of hand in wet conditions. Unfortunately, being porous also means absorbing and retaining bacteria, potentially becoming a major hygiene issue. Micarta can be regularly cleansed with water, though this will make it maintenance-heavy. Sealed micarta, on the other hand, may be a viable option, though I recommend doing more of your own research on this.
The image above was taken from the Knives and Tools website. Clicking on the image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
G10 is created in a similar way to micarta. Pressure is applied to the layers of resin-fused fiberglass cloth, creating a block of G10 from which the scales are made. G10 is wear-resistant, weather-resistant, and the strongest material out of the five. It is also non-porous, meaning it will not absorb or retain bacteria like unsealed micarta. A common criticism of G10 is that it is overly smooth or slippery. The texture of a G10 handle will vary, as some handles are polished smooth while others may have some texturing to assist with grip. This, however, is a matter of preference, as what is too smooth for one may just be the ideal handle for another.
G10 is created in a similar way to micarta. Pressure is applied to the layers of resin-fused fiberglass cloth, creating a block of G10 from which the scales are made. G10 is wear-resistant, weather-resistant, and the strongest material out of the five. It is also non-porous, meaning it will not absorb or retain bacteria like unsealed micarta. A common criticism of G10 is that it is overly smooth or slippery. The texture of a G10 handle will vary, as some handles are polished smooth while others may have some texturing to assist with grip. This, however, is a matter of preference, as what is too smooth for one may just be the ideal handle for another.
The image above was taken from the Knives and Tools website. Clicking on the image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
There are many different types of plastic, and not all are created equal, as some will be stronger than others. For example, Fiberglass Reinforced Nylon (FRN), commonly sold under the brand name Zytel, is a plastic made from nylon polymer mixed with glass. FRN is much stronger than many of the other plastics used to make knife handles. As a result, I can only talk about plastics in general terms. In general, plastic is strong, lightweight and non-porous. Though strong, plastic handles will not be as strong as G10 or Micarta handles. Plastic-handled knives will also be lighter in weight and cheaper in price, making them more affordable. Many humans tend to dislike plastic handles because of their cheap, plasticky feel. Whether this is a legitimate reason to avoid plastic or not is debatable.
There are many different types of plastic, and not all are created equal, as some will be stronger than others. For example, Fiberglass Reinforced Nylon (FRN), commonly sold under the brand name Zytel, is a plastic made from nylon polymer mixed with glass. FRN is much stronger than many of the other plastics used to make knife handles. As a result, I can only talk about plastics in general terms. In general, plastic is strong, lightweight and non-porous. Though strong, plastic handles will not be as strong as G10 or Micarta handles. Plastic-handled knives will also be lighter in weight and cheaper in price, making them more affordable. Many humans tend to dislike plastic handles because of their cheap, plasticky feel. Whether this is a legitimate reason to avoid plastic or not is debatable.
The image above was taken from the Knives and Tools website. Clicking on the image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
Similar to plastic, there are different types of rubber. In general, rubber is relatively durable, lightweight and non-porous. Rubber is not as wear-resistant as the other materials discussed above. After much use and abuse, it may end up looking like this:
Similar to plastic, there are different types of rubber. In general, rubber is relatively durable, lightweight and non-porous. Rubber is not as wear-resistant as the other materials discussed above. After much use and abuse, it may end up looking like this:
The image above is a screenshot taken from Survival Lilly's YouTube video. It is used to Illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on the image will take you to the original video.
On the plus side, rubber handles typically offer the best grip of all the other materials mentioned above. It is often used on inexpensive, budget knives, similar to plastic.
Handle architecture -
On the plus side, rubber handles typically offer the best grip of all the other materials mentioned above. It is often used on inexpensive, budget knives, similar to plastic.
Handle architecture -
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
When I say "handle architecture," I am referring to how a handle is installed onto a blade. Some handles utilize bolts that can be unscrewed, allowing the handle to detach from the blade. Other handles are immovable and permanently secured to the blade. Both detachable and permanently secured handles have their pros and cons. A permanently glued handle will give you the peace of mind that it is securely stuck on and not going anywhere. On the other hand, shock from hard use may loosen bolts used to secure a detachable handle. This could ultimately result in you losing your knife's handle altogether. For this very reason, some humans use Loctite or Super-glue on their bolts to permanently secure their knife's handle. Once Loctite or Super-glue is applied, it will be close to impossible to unscrew the bolts, so you must be absolutely sure if you want to do this. On the bright side, removable handles can usually be replaced with aftermarket scales that offer better grip, aesthetics and durability. This upgrade option is not available for knives with permanently glued handles.
Knife sheaths -
A sheath is like a knife's home. Every time a knife is not working, it rests in its sheath. A sheath is a layer of material that covers a knife's sharp cutting edge. It is needed to protect you and other equipment from potential damage. A sheath will also allow you to safely carry your knife on your person. As a result, how a sheath is configured for carrying is also important. As I am discussing a more long-term situation, the sheath must be durable, weather-resistant, and easy to maintain in the field. Below, I will discuss common materials used to make knife sheaths. I will start with leather.
1) Leather -
When I say "handle architecture," I am referring to how a handle is installed onto a blade. Some handles utilize bolts that can be unscrewed, allowing the handle to detach from the blade. Other handles are immovable and permanently secured to the blade. Both detachable and permanently secured handles have their pros and cons. A permanently glued handle will give you the peace of mind that it is securely stuck on and not going anywhere. On the other hand, shock from hard use may loosen bolts used to secure a detachable handle. This could ultimately result in you losing your knife's handle altogether. For this very reason, some humans use Loctite or Super-glue on their bolts to permanently secure their knife's handle. Once Loctite or Super-glue is applied, it will be close to impossible to unscrew the bolts, so you must be absolutely sure if you want to do this. On the bright side, removable handles can usually be replaced with aftermarket scales that offer better grip, aesthetics and durability. This upgrade option is not available for knives with permanently glued handles.
Knife sheaths -
A sheath is like a knife's home. Every time a knife is not working, it rests in its sheath. A sheath is a layer of material that covers a knife's sharp cutting edge. It is needed to protect you and other equipment from potential damage. A sheath will also allow you to safely carry your knife on your person. As a result, how a sheath is configured for carrying is also important. As I am discussing a more long-term situation, the sheath must be durable, weather-resistant, and easy to maintain in the field. Below, I will discuss common materials used to make knife sheaths. I will start with leather.
1) Leather -
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
Leather sheaths are very popular and preferred by many bushcrafters and woodsmen. Leather is processed animal skin. There are four grades of leather you should know about:
[1st grade] Full grain - Full grain leather is the top layer of the hide and is the most expensive, most durable, and most sought-after. It will retain any natural blemishes and marks the animal may have accumulated during its life on earth. This means each piece of full grain leather will be unique. The abuse the animal endures from its surroundings and the weather toughens up its skin, which is what makes full grain leather last longer than the other three grades.
[2nd grade] Top grain - Top grain leather is the second-highest grade of leather. The very top layer is split to remove any blemishes and marks, giving the leather a consistent look throughout. Doing this will allow for a variety of finishes to be applied. Top grain leather is fairly durable, though not as durable as full grain leather. It is also smoother and more flexible than full grain leather, making it easier for a leatherworker to work with.
[3rd grade] Split grain - Split grain leather, also known as genuine leather or corrected leather, will have its imperfections removed, similar to top grain leather. This is where the similarity ends, as split grain leather is lower in quality and durability than the two grades from above.
[4th grade] Bonded leather - Bonded leather is "bottom of the barrel" grade of leather. It is made by gluing together bits and pieces of left-over leather. This particular grade of leather will deteriorate quickly and not last. Simply put, do not buy it.
Note: Both full grain and top grain grades of leather are good options for a high-quality leather sheath.
Leather sheaths are very popular and preferred by many bushcrafters and woodsmen. Leather is processed animal skin. There are four grades of leather you should know about:
[1st grade] Full grain - Full grain leather is the top layer of the hide and is the most expensive, most durable, and most sought-after. It will retain any natural blemishes and marks the animal may have accumulated during its life on earth. This means each piece of full grain leather will be unique. The abuse the animal endures from its surroundings and the weather toughens up its skin, which is what makes full grain leather last longer than the other three grades.
[2nd grade] Top grain - Top grain leather is the second-highest grade of leather. The very top layer is split to remove any blemishes and marks, giving the leather a consistent look throughout. Doing this will allow for a variety of finishes to be applied. Top grain leather is fairly durable, though not as durable as full grain leather. It is also smoother and more flexible than full grain leather, making it easier for a leatherworker to work with.
[3rd grade] Split grain - Split grain leather, also known as genuine leather or corrected leather, will have its imperfections removed, similar to top grain leather. This is where the similarity ends, as split grain leather is lower in quality and durability than the two grades from above.
[4th grade] Bonded leather - Bonded leather is "bottom of the barrel" grade of leather. It is made by gluing together bits and pieces of left-over leather. This particular grade of leather will deteriorate quickly and not last. Simply put, do not buy it.
Note: Both full grain and top grain grades of leather are good options for a high-quality leather sheath.
The image used above was taken from Pixabay and is free for commercial use. Clicking on the image will take you to the original image & uploader.
If the hide or skin sourced from an animal is not cured, it will begin to rot. Tanning is a process the hide goes through to make it suitable for use. I will mention two tanning processes: vegetable tanning (veg tan) and chromium tanning (chrome tan). Manufacturers avoid chrome-tanned leather for knife sheaths because it is cured with chemicals capable of corroding steel. Veg-tanned leather, on the other hand, is cured with natural tannins, which is why it is commonly used to make sheaths for cutting tools. Vegetable tanning requires a significantly longer time to cure the hide, which is why veg-tanned leather is more expensive than chrome-tanned leather.
Note: When curing animal skin in the field, you can use a method called "brain tanning." The brain of an animal contains natural tannins. Mixing the brain with some water and applying it to a damp rawhide will break down the connective tissues. The hide then must be broken or stretched to make it pliable. The final step is to smoke the hide to make it waterproof. I recommend watching David Canterbury's YouTube video regarding this. Click here to watch.
How leather sheaths retain knives -
If the hide or skin sourced from an animal is not cured, it will begin to rot. Tanning is a process the hide goes through to make it suitable for use. I will mention two tanning processes: vegetable tanning (veg tan) and chromium tanning (chrome tan). Manufacturers avoid chrome-tanned leather for knife sheaths because it is cured with chemicals capable of corroding steel. Veg-tanned leather, on the other hand, is cured with natural tannins, which is why it is commonly used to make sheaths for cutting tools. Vegetable tanning requires a significantly longer time to cure the hide, which is why veg-tanned leather is more expensive than chrome-tanned leather.
Note: When curing animal skin in the field, you can use a method called "brain tanning." The brain of an animal contains natural tannins. Mixing the brain with some water and applying it to a damp rawhide will break down the connective tissues. The hide then must be broken or stretched to make it pliable. The final step is to smoke the hide to make it waterproof. I recommend watching David Canterbury's YouTube video regarding this. Click here to watch.
How leather sheaths retain knives -
Image 1 was taken from The Bushcraft Store website. Image 2 was taken from the Knives and Tools website. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
Leather sheaths typically retain knives using one of two methods: friction or a strap.
[1] Friction - Friction means the knife's handle is stuck between the two layers of leather. Over time, as you repeatedly remove and re-insert a knife from its leather sheath, the leather begins to stretch and become loose, unable to retain the knife adequately.
[2] Strap - A strap means there is no retention between the knife and the leather, and the knife is solely held in place by a strap, usually with the help of a snap. If the snap were to come undone, the knife would fall out of its sheath. Many manufacturers set aside most of their budget toward producing a high-quality knife and cut corners when it comes to the sheath. As a result, the quality of the snap will vary from sheath to sheath. Regardless, snaps tend to fail over time and could render the sheath useless.
In case your leather sheath can no longer retain your knife, I would like to present a few retention fixes below.
Retention fixes -
Leather sheaths typically retain knives using one of two methods: friction or a strap.
[1] Friction - Friction means the knife's handle is stuck between the two layers of leather. Over time, as you repeatedly remove and re-insert a knife from its leather sheath, the leather begins to stretch and become loose, unable to retain the knife adequately.
[2] Strap - A strap means there is no retention between the knife and the leather, and the knife is solely held in place by a strap, usually with the help of a snap. If the snap were to come undone, the knife would fall out of its sheath. Many manufacturers set aside most of their budget toward producing a high-quality knife and cut corners when it comes to the sheath. As a result, the quality of the snap will vary from sheath to sheath. Regardless, snaps tend to fail over time and could render the sheath useless.
In case your leather sheath can no longer retain your knife, I would like to present a few retention fixes below.
Retention fixes -
The images above are screenshots taken from Outofeden_bushcraft's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
Wet-forming is a potential solution to a leather sheath that no longer retains a knife. Wet-forming will re-tighten a leather sheath to a point where it will successfully retain a knife, sometimes even better than it originally did. A leather sheath is "wet-formed" by submerging it in warm water. Once completely saturated, insert the knife into it and press around the contours of the knife, especially the handle area. Finally, allow the sheath to dry with the knife inside, and you are done. Once the sheath dries, it will dry hard and no longer be supple as it might have been originally. The knife used during the wet-forming process is the only one that will fit the sheath now.
There are three things you should know before wet-forming:
1) Before inserting a knife into a wet leather sheath, ensure the blade is covered to prevent rust.
2) This method will only work on knives with certain handle shapes.
3) This method will only work on leather sheaths that primarily use friction to retain a knife.
Wet-forming may be a good solution at home, but it may not be ideal when in the field. It is also not a permanent fix, as the sheath will loosen over time. Unfortunately, constant wet and dry cycles can ruin the leather. This is why I will present three alternative fixes that can be used in the field.
Three additional retention fixes -
1) Simple cordage method -
Wet-forming is a potential solution to a leather sheath that no longer retains a knife. Wet-forming will re-tighten a leather sheath to a point where it will successfully retain a knife, sometimes even better than it originally did. A leather sheath is "wet-formed" by submerging it in warm water. Once completely saturated, insert the knife into it and press around the contours of the knife, especially the handle area. Finally, allow the sheath to dry with the knife inside, and you are done. Once the sheath dries, it will dry hard and no longer be supple as it might have been originally. The knife used during the wet-forming process is the only one that will fit the sheath now.
There are three things you should know before wet-forming:
1) Before inserting a knife into a wet leather sheath, ensure the blade is covered to prevent rust.
2) This method will only work on knives with certain handle shapes.
3) This method will only work on leather sheaths that primarily use friction to retain a knife.
Wet-forming may be a good solution at home, but it may not be ideal when in the field. It is also not a permanent fix, as the sheath will loosen over time. Unfortunately, constant wet and dry cycles can ruin the leather. This is why I will present three alternative fixes that can be used in the field.
Three additional retention fixes -
1) Simple cordage method -
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
Inserting some cordage through the belt loop and tying a knot will secure it to the sheath, as shown in image 1. Inserting your knife into the sheath and tying a knot around the handle will secure the knife. Unraveling the knot will allow you to remove the knife. This means you must manually untie the cordage to remove the knife and retie it to secure it. Doing this constantly can get annoying, though this method will successfully retain the knife.
Note: Utilizing a knife's lanyard hole when tying the cordage may provide additional security. A lanyard hole is a hole near the end of a knife's handle, as seen in image 2.
2) Cord lock method -
Inserting some cordage through the belt loop and tying a knot will secure it to the sheath, as shown in image 1. Inserting your knife into the sheath and tying a knot around the handle will secure the knife. Unraveling the knot will allow you to remove the knife. This means you must manually untie the cordage to remove the knife and retie it to secure it. Doing this constantly can get annoying, though this method will successfully retain the knife.
Note: Utilizing a knife's lanyard hole when tying the cordage may provide additional security. A lanyard hole is a hole near the end of a knife's handle, as seen in image 2.
2) Cord lock method -
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
Combining a cord lock with some cordage will allow you to create an adjustable loop. A cord lock is a small device with a spring in it. It will allow you to loosen the cordage to remove the knife and tighten the cordage to secure it. Some cord locks have one hole, while others have two. This method requires a cord lock with two holes unless your cordage is thin enough to fit into one hole twice. A metal cord lock will be more durable than a plastic one, though there is a chance both may fail over time.
Note: To use this method in the field, you must carry a cord lock and some cordage in your pack.
3) Shock cord method -
Combining a cord lock with some cordage will allow you to create an adjustable loop. A cord lock is a small device with a spring in it. It will allow you to loosen the cordage to remove the knife and tighten the cordage to secure it. Some cord locks have one hole, while others have two. This method requires a cord lock with two holes unless your cordage is thin enough to fit into one hole twice. A metal cord lock will be more durable than a plastic one, though there is a chance both may fail over time.
Note: To use this method in the field, you must carry a cord lock and some cordage in your pack.
3) Shock cord method -
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
A shock cord is an elastic cord capable of stretching. With the help of shock cord, you do not need to manually untie and retie the cordage. You also do not need to worry about a major component like the cord lock failing. After a knot is tied, the shock cord can be pulled over a knife's handle to secure the knife and pulled back over to remove it.
Note: To use this method in the field, you must carry some shock cord in your pack.
How leather sheaths can be carried -
A shock cord is an elastic cord capable of stretching. With the help of shock cord, you do not need to manually untie and retie the cordage. You also do not need to worry about a major component like the cord lock failing. After a knot is tied, the shock cord can be pulled over a knife's handle to secure the knife and pulled back over to remove it.
Note: To use this method in the field, you must carry some shock cord in your pack.
How leather sheaths can be carried -
Images 1, 2 & 5 were taken from The Bushcraft Store website. Images 3, 4 & 6 were taken by me from my smartphone. Clicking on images 1, 2 or 5 will take you to the original webpage.
Knives can be carried in their leather sheaths vertically or horizontally. A belt loop, as seen in images 4 and 6, indicates the sheath can be carried vertically on a belt or around your neck with the help of cordage. Straps running horizontally across a leather sheath, like in image 5, indicate the sheath can be carried horizontally on a belt. Some sheaths will offer both a belt loop and straps, while others will only offer one or the other. How you choose to carry your belt knife is a personal preference. For me personally, if the knife's cutting blade is 3 inches or less, I prefer horizontal carry. If the knife's cutting blade is 4 inches or more, I prefer vertical carry. I do not like carrying a knife around my neck. For a leather sheath, I believe carrying it vertically on your belt would be the safer option, as there would be less chance of the knife falling out.
Simple vs Complex -
Knives can be carried in their leather sheaths vertically or horizontally. A belt loop, as seen in images 4 and 6, indicates the sheath can be carried vertically on a belt or around your neck with the help of cordage. Straps running horizontally across a leather sheath, like in image 5, indicate the sheath can be carried horizontally on a belt. Some sheaths will offer both a belt loop and straps, while others will only offer one or the other. How you choose to carry your belt knife is a personal preference. For me personally, if the knife's cutting blade is 3 inches or less, I prefer horizontal carry. If the knife's cutting blade is 4 inches or more, I prefer vertical carry. I do not like carrying a knife around my neck. For a leather sheath, I believe carrying it vertically on your belt would be the safer option, as there would be less chance of the knife falling out.
Simple vs Complex -
Image 1 was taken by me from my smartphone. Image 2 was taken from BLACK SCOUT SURVIVAL's blog post. Clicking on image 2 will take you to the original image and blog.
Leather sheaths can be simple or complex. The one you will get with the knife you buy is likely to be simple, as companies tend to spend most of their budget on the actual knife and not much on the other components. Complex leather sheaths will offer extra functionality in the form of ferro rod holders and pouches. A ferro rod holder is stitched in so that you can attach a ferro rod to the sheath. A ferro rod is a device that will help you start a fire and is discussed in the [II] COMBUSTION chapter. Pouches on leather sheaths will allow you to carry additional gear. This means you will have a small kit alongside your knife, increasing your capacity to get more done. Carrying all these additional items in your knife's sheath will make it heavier and bulkier.
Custom leather sheaths -
If you do not like your simple leather sheath or want one of higher quality, you can have a custom one made for a price. You do not need to send your knife to the sheath maker unless you want it wet-formed. The sheath maker will only need a few measurements of your knife to make the sheath.
Summary -
Leather sheaths will not last as long as the other options I will discuss because they can be fragile. Leather is skin, and skin can be easily cut by a sharp edge, which is why you must take extra care when removing and re-inserting a knife from a leather sheath. The interior of the sheath will also begin to accumulate dirt, debris, and sticky moisture found in softwoods as you regularly use the knife, potentially causing the leather to develop mold. Cleaning the interior with water and giving it sufficient time to dry will do the job, though constant wet and dry cycles can destroy the leather, as mentioned above.
Some leather sheaths come with plastic inserts, while others do not. A plastic insert can solve both of the issues mentioned above. Inserting a plastic insert inside a leather sheath means the tip or the edge of the knife will have to penetrate the plastic lining before it can damage the leather. This increases the sheath's durability and lifespan. In addition, the plastic insert will acquire all the dirt and goo instead of the inside of the leather, keeping the leather from developing mold. A plastic insert is often removable; thus, it can be removed from the sheath, washed, dried, and inserted back in. That said, the outside of the sheath will still need to be maintained and looked after.
Leather has pores, just like human skin has pores. If it is not moisturized every now and then, it will begin to crack and peel away. At the same time, if you overtreat it, it will become overly supple and begin to break down. There are many leather care products out there. Generally, products with a runny or soft consistency will have a higher oil content and should not be used on leather frequently, as they can ruin the leather. On the other hand, leather care products with a thick or hard consistency can be regularly applied without having to worry about the leather becoming damaged. A long-term bug-out situation means you will constantly be outdoors, exposed to the elements. This will require you to waterproof or treat your leather sheath regularly. Treating your leather sheath will temporarily make it waterproof and require re-treating once the treatment wears off. Unfortunately, you will not be able to carry an indefinite supply of treatment in your pack and eventually run out. As a result, I personally do not find a leather sheath to be appropriate for a long-term bug-out situation.
2) Nylon with a plastic insert -
Leather sheaths can be simple or complex. The one you will get with the knife you buy is likely to be simple, as companies tend to spend most of their budget on the actual knife and not much on the other components. Complex leather sheaths will offer extra functionality in the form of ferro rod holders and pouches. A ferro rod holder is stitched in so that you can attach a ferro rod to the sheath. A ferro rod is a device that will help you start a fire and is discussed in the [II] COMBUSTION chapter. Pouches on leather sheaths will allow you to carry additional gear. This means you will have a small kit alongside your knife, increasing your capacity to get more done. Carrying all these additional items in your knife's sheath will make it heavier and bulkier.
Custom leather sheaths -
If you do not like your simple leather sheath or want one of higher quality, you can have a custom one made for a price. You do not need to send your knife to the sheath maker unless you want it wet-formed. The sheath maker will only need a few measurements of your knife to make the sheath.
Summary -
Leather sheaths will not last as long as the other options I will discuss because they can be fragile. Leather is skin, and skin can be easily cut by a sharp edge, which is why you must take extra care when removing and re-inserting a knife from a leather sheath. The interior of the sheath will also begin to accumulate dirt, debris, and sticky moisture found in softwoods as you regularly use the knife, potentially causing the leather to develop mold. Cleaning the interior with water and giving it sufficient time to dry will do the job, though constant wet and dry cycles can destroy the leather, as mentioned above.
Some leather sheaths come with plastic inserts, while others do not. A plastic insert can solve both of the issues mentioned above. Inserting a plastic insert inside a leather sheath means the tip or the edge of the knife will have to penetrate the plastic lining before it can damage the leather. This increases the sheath's durability and lifespan. In addition, the plastic insert will acquire all the dirt and goo instead of the inside of the leather, keeping the leather from developing mold. A plastic insert is often removable; thus, it can be removed from the sheath, washed, dried, and inserted back in. That said, the outside of the sheath will still need to be maintained and looked after.
Leather has pores, just like human skin has pores. If it is not moisturized every now and then, it will begin to crack and peel away. At the same time, if you overtreat it, it will become overly supple and begin to break down. There are many leather care products out there. Generally, products with a runny or soft consistency will have a higher oil content and should not be used on leather frequently, as they can ruin the leather. On the other hand, leather care products with a thick or hard consistency can be regularly applied without having to worry about the leather becoming damaged. A long-term bug-out situation means you will constantly be outdoors, exposed to the elements. This will require you to waterproof or treat your leather sheath regularly. Treating your leather sheath will temporarily make it waterproof and require re-treating once the treatment wears off. Unfortunately, you will not be able to carry an indefinite supply of treatment in your pack and eventually run out. As a result, I personally do not find a leather sheath to be appropriate for a long-term bug-out situation.
2) Nylon with a plastic insert -
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
A nylon sheath with a plastic insert has its outer shell made from nylon fabric and has a plastic insert stitched in, as the name suggests. The plastic insert is just a simple, rectangular, hollow box affixed to the nylon shell to prevent the nylon material from getting cut by the knife. There is absolutely no friction between the plastic insert and the blade, meaning the knife loosely sits inside the plastic lining. The only thing holding the knife in place is a nylon strap secured around the handle. Such sheaths usually offer a small pouch on the front side to carry additional gear.
A nylon sheath with a plastic insert has its outer shell made from nylon fabric and has a plastic insert stitched in, as the name suggests. The plastic insert is just a simple, rectangular, hollow box affixed to the nylon shell to prevent the nylon material from getting cut by the knife. There is absolutely no friction between the plastic insert and the blade, meaning the knife loosely sits inside the plastic lining. The only thing holding the knife in place is a nylon strap secured around the handle. Such sheaths usually offer a small pouch on the front side to carry additional gear.
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
On the back side, such sheaths may offer a MOLLE system. MOLLE is an acronym for Modular Lightweight Load-carrying Equipment. It will allow you to attach it to anything MOLLE compatible, like a backpack, as seen in the images above. This is an alternative way of carrying your knife to wearing it on your belt.
How nylon sheaths retain knives -
On the back side, such sheaths may offer a MOLLE system. MOLLE is an acronym for Modular Lightweight Load-carrying Equipment. It will allow you to attach it to anything MOLLE compatible, like a backpack, as seen in the images above. This is an alternative way of carrying your knife to wearing it on your belt.
How nylon sheaths retain knives -
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
These types of sheaths often retain knives using a nylon strap that is secured around the handle, usually with the help of a snap or Velcro. Velcro tends not to last very long, and snaps can fail over time. As a result, solely relying on a snap or Velcro strap to hold your knife in place is risky, especially for a long-term bug-out situation.
Retention fixes -
These types of sheaths often retain knives using a nylon strap that is secured around the handle, usually with the help of a snap or Velcro. Velcro tends not to last very long, and snaps can fail over time. As a result, solely relying on a snap or Velcro strap to hold your knife in place is risky, especially for a long-term bug-out situation.
Retention fixes -
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
For extra security, you could choose a knife with a nylon sheath that has two straps instead of one. You could also stitch an additional strap to the sheath yourself. Alternatively, utilizing the cordage, cord lock or shock cord methods I presented above will also do the trick. Adding these additional security measures to your sheath can make removing and securing a knife cumbersome, as there will be an extra component to fiddle with. Nonetheless, these methods will reduce the chance of your knife falling out of the sheath.
How a nylon sheath can be carried -
For extra security, you could choose a knife with a nylon sheath that has two straps instead of one. You could also stitch an additional strap to the sheath yourself. Alternatively, utilizing the cordage, cord lock or shock cord methods I presented above will also do the trick. Adding these additional security measures to your sheath can make removing and securing a knife cumbersome, as there will be an extra component to fiddle with. Nonetheless, these methods will reduce the chance of your knife falling out of the sheath.
How a nylon sheath can be carried -
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
A nylon sheath with a plastic insert has a belt loop and is mainly carried vertically on a belt by most humans. If it has MOLLE webbing straps running horizontally on the backside, it could technically be carried horizontally on a belt. However, humans tend not to carry a nylon sheath in this manner because of the higher risk of the knife falling out. These types of sheaths are also not carried around the neck because they can be too big and bulky for that.
Danglers -
When vertically carrying a sheath on your belt that has a rigid belt loop, sitting down with the sheath on can be uncomfortable and awkward. You will have to constantly adjust the sheath or how you sit whenever you want to sit down.
A nylon sheath with a plastic insert has a belt loop and is mainly carried vertically on a belt by most humans. If it has MOLLE webbing straps running horizontally on the backside, it could technically be carried horizontally on a belt. However, humans tend not to carry a nylon sheath in this manner because of the higher risk of the knife falling out. These types of sheaths are also not carried around the neck because they can be too big and bulky for that.
Danglers -
When vertically carrying a sheath on your belt that has a rigid belt loop, sitting down with the sheath on can be uncomfortable and awkward. You will have to constantly adjust the sheath or how you sit whenever you want to sit down.
Images 1, 2 & 3 were taken by me from my smartphone. Image 4 was taken from the TAMARACK OUTDOORS website. Clicking on image 4 will take you to the appropriate webpage.
Danglers are a solution to this problem. Some sheaths come with danglers, while others do not. Nylon sheaths do not come with danglers. As a result, you could improvise a dangler using some cordage, which is basically just a simple loop. Inserting the improvised cordage dangler through the belt loop of your sheath, then sliding your belt through the two cordage loops, will allow the sheath to move freely. Now, whenever you sit down with the sheath on your belt, the sheath will automatically adjust for you rather than you having to adjust for it. This method will work on any sheath with a rigid belt loop, including a leather sheath.
Whenever the handle of a knife rides higher than the belt loop of a sheath, it is likely to constantly poke you in the side. A dangler will also lower the knife and eliminate this poking problem. One potential downside to a dangler is the constant swaying of the sheath back and forth as you walk or run. It can become quite annoying, especially if the sheath is big.
Honorable mentions(3) -
[4] The company Casstrom sells its No. 3 dangler as a stand-alone product. It will not fit a nylon sheath because the belt loops on nylon sheaths tend to be too wide. It will, however, fit and complement a standard leather sheath well.
Danglers are a solution to this problem. Some sheaths come with danglers, while others do not. Nylon sheaths do not come with danglers. As a result, you could improvise a dangler using some cordage, which is basically just a simple loop. Inserting the improvised cordage dangler through the belt loop of your sheath, then sliding your belt through the two cordage loops, will allow the sheath to move freely. Now, whenever you sit down with the sheath on your belt, the sheath will automatically adjust for you rather than you having to adjust for it. This method will work on any sheath with a rigid belt loop, including a leather sheath.
Whenever the handle of a knife rides higher than the belt loop of a sheath, it is likely to constantly poke you in the side. A dangler will also lower the knife and eliminate this poking problem. One potential downside to a dangler is the constant swaying of the sheath back and forth as you walk or run. It can become quite annoying, especially if the sheath is big.
Honorable mentions(3) -
[4] The company Casstrom sells its No. 3 dangler as a stand-alone product. It will not fit a nylon sheath because the belt loops on nylon sheaths tend to be too wide. It will, however, fit and complement a standard leather sheath well.
Image 1 was taken from the Knives and Tools website. Image 2 was taken from the official SPEC-OPS website. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
[1] As long as the dimensions of a knife's blade are smaller than the dimensions of the plastic insert affixed to a nylon sheath, the knife should fit in it. This means nylon sheaths can carry many different knives and are considered somewhat universal. For instance, the company KABAR sells their nylon sheath that comes with the BK2 companion knife as a standalone product, meaning it can be bought on its own without having to buy the knife. The BK22S nylon sheath will accept any knife whose dimensions are equal to or less than those of the BK2 companion knife. However, the straps designed to retain the knife have a fixed length. This means depending on how thick the knife's handle is, the straps on this sheath may be too long or too short to retain the knife.
[2] The company Spec Ops, on the other hand, has created a superior nylon sheath, as the strap used to retain the knife is adjustable. This allows for a wider variety of knives with various handle shapes and sizes to be compatible with this particular sheath. In addition, the Spec Ops nylon sheath is made using higher-quality materials than the KABAR sheath, making it more expensive. Either one of these sheaths can be purchased if you are not satisfied with the stock sheath you receive with your knife.
Summary -
A nylon sheath with a plastic insert is durable, abrasion-resistant and easy to clean. The plastic inserts on these sheaths are typically stitched in and non-removable. If you wanted to clean the plastic insert, you would have to do so while it is connected to the nylon shell. This is not a major issue because nylon is rot-resistant. As long as you give the nylon material sufficient time to dry, you should be fine. Nylon's durability and rot-resistant properties will allow the sheath to hold up to adverse weather conditions without needing to be treated, unlike leather.
Other than a nylon sheath's potential retention issue, which I have already addressed above, rattling is an annoying issue commonly experienced by many humans. The plastic insert in a nylon sheath is just a hollow box and not form-fitted for a particular knife. When walking or running with the sheath on your person, the blade will constantly hit the plastic insert and make an aggravating rattling noise. It can be annoying and a real inconvenience when attempting to hunt. Wrapping some fabric around the blade and then inserting it into the plastic insert can help reduce the rattle and potentially solve this issue. A nylon sheath's size can also be a turn-off for many because of how big and bulky it can be.
Lastly, depending on the quality, the nylon fabric can begin to fray. This problem can be solved by using a lighter to melt the frayed ends, sealing the fabric and preventing it from fraying further. In my opinion, a good-quality nylon sheath is appropriate for a long-term bug-out situation.
[1] As long as the dimensions of a knife's blade are smaller than the dimensions of the plastic insert affixed to a nylon sheath, the knife should fit in it. This means nylon sheaths can carry many different knives and are considered somewhat universal. For instance, the company KABAR sells their nylon sheath that comes with the BK2 companion knife as a standalone product, meaning it can be bought on its own without having to buy the knife. The BK22S nylon sheath will accept any knife whose dimensions are equal to or less than those of the BK2 companion knife. However, the straps designed to retain the knife have a fixed length. This means depending on how thick the knife's handle is, the straps on this sheath may be too long or too short to retain the knife.
[2] The company Spec Ops, on the other hand, has created a superior nylon sheath, as the strap used to retain the knife is adjustable. This allows for a wider variety of knives with various handle shapes and sizes to be compatible with this particular sheath. In addition, the Spec Ops nylon sheath is made using higher-quality materials than the KABAR sheath, making it more expensive. Either one of these sheaths can be purchased if you are not satisfied with the stock sheath you receive with your knife.
Summary -
A nylon sheath with a plastic insert is durable, abrasion-resistant and easy to clean. The plastic inserts on these sheaths are typically stitched in and non-removable. If you wanted to clean the plastic insert, you would have to do so while it is connected to the nylon shell. This is not a major issue because nylon is rot-resistant. As long as you give the nylon material sufficient time to dry, you should be fine. Nylon's durability and rot-resistant properties will allow the sheath to hold up to adverse weather conditions without needing to be treated, unlike leather.
Other than a nylon sheath's potential retention issue, which I have already addressed above, rattling is an annoying issue commonly experienced by many humans. The plastic insert in a nylon sheath is just a hollow box and not form-fitted for a particular knife. When walking or running with the sheath on your person, the blade will constantly hit the plastic insert and make an aggravating rattling noise. It can be annoying and a real inconvenience when attempting to hunt. Wrapping some fabric around the blade and then inserting it into the plastic insert can help reduce the rattle and potentially solve this issue. A nylon sheath's size can also be a turn-off for many because of how big and bulky it can be.
Lastly, depending on the quality, the nylon fabric can begin to fray. This problem can be solved by using a lighter to melt the frayed ends, sealing the fabric and preventing it from fraying further. In my opinion, a good-quality nylon sheath is appropriate for a long-term bug-out situation.
The image used above was taken by me from my smartphone.
Speaking of nylon sheaths, there are some without plastic inserts, like the one in the image above. This kind of sheath is "bottom of the barrel" grade and not fit for a long-term bug-out situation. There is absolutely nothing protecting the nylon material or the stitching from being cut by a knife. Every time you go to place a knife back into its sheath, it will not always slide back in perfectly and can get caught on the material, damaging the sheath and shortening its life. In addition, the snaps used to retain knives in such sheaths are generally not of the highest quality either. Manufacturers probably include such a sheath with their knives because they may feel that something is better than nothing, giving the customer a short window to buy a better sheath, whether custom or aftermarket.
3) Kydex -
Speaking of nylon sheaths, there are some without plastic inserts, like the one in the image above. This kind of sheath is "bottom of the barrel" grade and not fit for a long-term bug-out situation. There is absolutely nothing protecting the nylon material or the stitching from being cut by a knife. Every time you go to place a knife back into its sheath, it will not always slide back in perfectly and can get caught on the material, damaging the sheath and shortening its life. In addition, the snaps used to retain knives in such sheaths are generally not of the highest quality either. Manufacturers probably include such a sheath with their knives because they may feel that something is better than nothing, giving the customer a short window to buy a better sheath, whether custom or aftermarket.
3) Kydex -
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
Kydex is a brand name for thermoplastic, just like Zytel is a brand name for fiberglass-reinforced nylon. It is a type of plastic. There are other types of plastics used to make knife sheaths, like polypropylene, which is a decent option. However, I will stick with Kydex in this section. Being a thermoplastic means it can be heated and moulded into any shape. Once the Kydex cools, it will take on and keep the shape it was moulded to. This can be done multiple times without ruining the Kydex. This ability allows for Kydex sheaths to be form-fitted, or, in other words, the sheath will firmly fit the contours of a specific knife.
Kydex is a brand name for thermoplastic, just like Zytel is a brand name for fiberglass-reinforced nylon. It is a type of plastic. There are other types of plastics used to make knife sheaths, like polypropylene, which is a decent option. However, I will stick with Kydex in this section. Being a thermoplastic means it can be heated and moulded into any shape. Once the Kydex cools, it will take on and keep the shape it was moulded to. This can be done multiple times without ruining the Kydex. This ability allows for Kydex sheaths to be form-fitted, or, in other words, the sheath will firmly fit the contours of a specific knife.
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
Only the knife used to mould the Kydex sheath will fit in it. As you can see from the images above, my Casstrom Swedish Forest Knife (SFK) fits in my ESEE PR4's leather sheath and my KABAR BK-10's nylon sheath. It does not, however, fit my TOPS Fieldcraft 3.5's Kydex sheath. This is because the Kydex sheath is moulded specifically for the Fieldcraft 3.5 knife. The SFK has a different blade length, height, thickness, and handle than the Fieldcraft 3.5, which is why the sheath will not accept the blade. All this shows is that leather and nylon sheaths can be more versatile as they are able to accept knives with similar dimensions to the knives they are sold with.
How Kydex sheaths retain knives -
Only the knife used to mould the Kydex sheath will fit in it. As you can see from the images above, my Casstrom Swedish Forest Knife (SFK) fits in my ESEE PR4's leather sheath and my KABAR BK-10's nylon sheath. It does not, however, fit my TOPS Fieldcraft 3.5's Kydex sheath. This is because the Kydex sheath is moulded specifically for the Fieldcraft 3.5 knife. The SFK has a different blade length, height, thickness, and handle than the Fieldcraft 3.5, which is why the sheath will not accept the blade. All this shows is that leather and nylon sheaths can be more versatile as they are able to accept knives with similar dimensions to the knives they are sold with.
How Kydex sheaths retain knives -
The image used above was taken by me from my smartphone.
Kydex sheaths retain knives by friction alone. This means that snaps and velcro are unnecessary, though you may see some Kydex sheaths that have them as an added security measure. Over time, a Kydex sheath will loosen up the more you remove and re-insert a knife from it, increasing the chance of it falling out. In addition, every time you insert a knife into a Kydex sheath, the Kydex flexes as the knife snaps into place. This makes Kydex susceptible to cracking, significantly more so in colder conditions when the Kydex becomes brittle.
Before I present solutions to these problems, I would like to go over how Kydex sheaths are configured for carrying because that may change the approach you use to fix the problems mentioned above.
How Kydex sheaths can be carried -
Kydex sheaths retain knives by friction alone. This means that snaps and velcro are unnecessary, though you may see some Kydex sheaths that have them as an added security measure. Over time, a Kydex sheath will loosen up the more you remove and re-insert a knife from it, increasing the chance of it falling out. In addition, every time you insert a knife into a Kydex sheath, the Kydex flexes as the knife snaps into place. This makes Kydex susceptible to cracking, significantly more so in colder conditions when the Kydex becomes brittle.
Before I present solutions to these problems, I would like to go over how Kydex sheaths are configured for carrying because that may change the approach you use to fix the problems mentioned above.
How Kydex sheaths can be carried -
Images 1 & 3 were taken from the Knives and Tools website. Image 3 was slightly modified. Image 2 was taken from the THE KNIFE CONNECTION website. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
Like nylon and leather sheaths, Kydex sheaths can have belt loops that allow them to be carried vertically on a belt.
Note: A nylon sheath will have a nylon belt loop, and a leather sheath will have a leather belt loop. Kydex sheaths can have belt loops made from Kydex, leather or nylon.
Like nylon and leather sheaths, Kydex sheaths can have belt loops that allow them to be carried vertically on a belt.
Note: A nylon sheath will have a nylon belt loop, and a leather sheath will have a leather belt loop. Kydex sheaths can have belt loops made from Kydex, leather or nylon.
Image 1 was taken from the Knives and Tools website. Image 2 is a screenshot taken from cutlerylover's YouTube video. It is used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate source.
Kydex sheaths can also come with plastic or metal belt clips. Such clips are designed to be secured to your belt without having to remove your belt. Some clips are able to rotate, while others have a fixed position. Rotatable belt clips will allow you to carry the sheath vertically or horizontally by simply rotating it accordingly. Unfortunately, if the sheath gets caught on something, it can bend the clip, which may be impossible to fix. In addition, carrying a sheath with a belt clip vertically on your belt can cause the knife's handle to constantly poke you in the side, as the knife will be riding high.
Kydex sheaths can also come with plastic or metal belt clips. Such clips are designed to be secured to your belt without having to remove your belt. Some clips are able to rotate, while others have a fixed position. Rotatable belt clips will allow you to carry the sheath vertically or horizontally by simply rotating it accordingly. Unfortunately, if the sheath gets caught on something, it can bend the clip, which may be impossible to fix. In addition, carrying a sheath with a belt clip vertically on your belt can cause the knife's handle to constantly poke you in the side, as the knife will be riding high.
The images used above are taken by me from my smartphone.
A dangler should solve both of these problems. You can use the cordage dangler method I presented above, or make your own, as I did.
A dangler should solve both of these problems. You can use the cordage dangler method I presented above, or make your own, as I did.
Image 1 was taken from the Knives and Tools website. Image 2 was taken from the Outdoor Adventurer website. Clicking on each image will take to the appropriate webpage.
Kydex sheaths can also be carried horizontally on your belt. If a Kydex sheath has straps running across it, like in the images above, it means it is configured for horizontal carry.
Kydex sheaths can also be carried horizontally on your belt. If a Kydex sheath has straps running across it, like in the images above, it means it is configured for horizontal carry.
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
Kydex sheaths will have multiple holes drilled in them, allowing cordage to be inserted so they can be carried around your neck like a necklace. This is usually done with smaller knives, often carried upside down, as seen in image 2.
Kydex sheaths will have multiple holes drilled in them, allowing cordage to be inserted so they can be carried around your neck like a necklace. This is usually done with smaller knives, often carried upside down, as seen in image 2.
The images used above were taken from the Knives and Tools website. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
All that said, the Kydex sheath that will come with the knife you buy will most likely be configured in one of three ways. It will have a nylon belt loop, like in image 1, a belt clip, like in image 2, or no attachments, like in image 3. At least for vertical carry, a nylon belt loop like the one in image 1 seems to be the better option. I have already discussed belt clips above. However, how would you carry a Kydex sheath that is not configured for carrying, like the one in image 3?
Attachment options -
All that said, the Kydex sheath that will come with the knife you buy will most likely be configured in one of three ways. It will have a nylon belt loop, like in image 1, a belt clip, like in image 2, or no attachments, like in image 3. At least for vertical carry, a nylon belt loop like the one in image 1 seems to be the better option. I have already discussed belt clips above. However, how would you carry a Kydex sheath that is not configured for carrying, like the one in image 3?
Attachment options -
The images used above were taken from THE KNIFE CONNECTION website. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
Sheaths with no attachments are mainly used to cover a knife's sharp edge and are carried inside a backpack. Considering that a belt knife needs to be easy to access, having it in a pack will make it difficult to get a hold of when you really need it. This is where aftermarket attachments come into play. There are many attachments sold separately that can be secured to a Kydex sheath that will allow you to carry it vertically or horizontally on your belt, depending on the attachment. In the images above, I have presented four examples. After buying a knife with a sheath that is not configured for carrying, such attachments will require you to spend more money. In addition, whether the attachment you want is compatible with your particular Kydex sheath can be another potential problem. You should ask the seller before buying. What if you do not have the money or do not want to spend more on such upgrades?
Alternative carry options -
Sheaths with no attachments are mainly used to cover a knife's sharp edge and are carried inside a backpack. Considering that a belt knife needs to be easy to access, having it in a pack will make it difficult to get a hold of when you really need it. This is where aftermarket attachments come into play. There are many attachments sold separately that can be secured to a Kydex sheath that will allow you to carry it vertically or horizontally on your belt, depending on the attachment. In the images above, I have presented four examples. After buying a knife with a sheath that is not configured for carrying, such attachments will require you to spend more money. In addition, whether the attachment you want is compatible with your particular Kydex sheath can be another potential problem. You should ask the seller before buying. What if you do not have the money or do not want to spend more on such upgrades?
Alternative carry options -
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
Besides carrying it around your neck with the help of cordage, one solution is cordage straps. Inserting cordage in the holes opposite each other, as seen in image 3, will allow you to create makeshift straps for horizontal carrying. This can also be done for vertical carrying, but the knife will ride high. Once you insert the cordage through the hole, tying a knot bigger than the hole will prevent the cordage from sliding out. This can be seen in image 2. Once the straps are set up, simply sliding your belt through them will allow you to horizontally carry your sheath, as shown in image 4. If you already have some cordage lying around your house, this option will be free. If you do not, buying some cordage will be cheaper than paying for an aftermarket attachment. I recommend using paracord for such tasks because it is resilient and rot-resistant. Paracord is discussed in the [IV] CORDAGE chapter. This method can also be used in the field if your original carry system were to fail.
Besides carrying it around your neck with the help of cordage, one solution is cordage straps. Inserting cordage in the holes opposite each other, as seen in image 3, will allow you to create makeshift straps for horizontal carrying. This can also be done for vertical carrying, but the knife will ride high. Once you insert the cordage through the hole, tying a knot bigger than the hole will prevent the cordage from sliding out. This can be seen in image 2. Once the straps are set up, simply sliding your belt through them will allow you to horizontally carry your sheath, as shown in image 4. If you already have some cordage lying around your house, this option will be free. If you do not, buying some cordage will be cheaper than paying for an aftermarket attachment. I recommend using paracord for such tasks because it is resilient and rot-resistant. Paracord is discussed in the [IV] CORDAGE chapter. This method can also be used in the field if your original carry system were to fail.
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
The Kydex sheath does not need holes on both sides for this method to work. As long as there is a set of holes along one side, it will work. This is shown in the images above.
The Kydex sheath does not need holes on both sides for this method to work. As long as there is a set of holes along one side, it will work. This is shown in the images above.
The images used above are screenshots taken from JIUJITSU2000's YouTube channel. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
If you do not want to carry your knife horizontally on your belt, you can carry it upside down, similar to the example in the images above. Note: This may be a relatively safe option for smaller, lighter knives. However, bigger, heavier knives have a higher chance of falling out.
Two problems with Kydex sheaths -
I will now address the two problems I identified earlier.
1) A Kydex sheath will become loose over time, and considering friction is a Kydex sheath's primary retention method, it is important to know how to fix this issue in the field.
2) Kydex can crack, especially in colder conditions.
I will start with the loose issue.
If you do not want to carry your knife horizontally on your belt, you can carry it upside down, similar to the example in the images above. Note: This may be a relatively safe option for smaller, lighter knives. However, bigger, heavier knives have a higher chance of falling out.
Two problems with Kydex sheaths -
I will now address the two problems I identified earlier.
1) A Kydex sheath will become loose over time, and considering friction is a Kydex sheath's primary retention method, it is important to know how to fix this issue in the field.
2) Kydex can crack, especially in colder conditions.
I will start with the loose issue.
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
Before attempting to fix something, it is wise to understand how that thing works. Every time a knife is inserted into a Kydex sheath, it causes a particular area of the sheath to stretch. I have highlighted this area in image 2. All Kydex sheaths will stretch around this area. After repeatedly stretching at this point, again and again, it loosens up, no longer able to adequately retain the knife.
Before attempting to fix something, it is wise to understand how that thing works. Every time a knife is inserted into a Kydex sheath, it causes a particular area of the sheath to stretch. I have highlighted this area in image 2. All Kydex sheaths will stretch around this area. After repeatedly stretching at this point, again and again, it loosens up, no longer able to adequately retain the knife.
Image 1 was taken from Pixabay and is free for commercial use. Image 2 was taken by me from my smartphone. Clicking on image 1 will take you to the original image and uploader.
Kydex is a thermoplastic, and as mentioned above, it can be re-shaped multiple times. Heating it up will make it pliable, allowing you to tighten it, and letting it cool will allow the Kydex to keep its new, tighter shape. When at home, humans sometimes use a hair dryer on the hot setting or a heat gun to make the Kydex pliable. This is not an option in the field; instead, you will have to use a bunch of hot embers from your campfire. Hovering that particular area that stretches on your Kydex sheath over some glowing embers will make it pliable. Your knife and any removable attachments on your Kydex sheath should be removed before heating it. Once sufficiently heated, insert the knife back into the sheath and pinch it at that particular area to tighten it, as seen in image 2. Once it cools, it should be tighter.
Kydex is a thermoplastic, and as mentioned above, it can be re-shaped multiple times. Heating it up will make it pliable, allowing you to tighten it, and letting it cool will allow the Kydex to keep its new, tighter shape. When at home, humans sometimes use a hair dryer on the hot setting or a heat gun to make the Kydex pliable. This is not an option in the field; instead, you will have to use a bunch of hot embers from your campfire. Hovering that particular area that stretches on your Kydex sheath over some glowing embers will make it pliable. Your knife and any removable attachments on your Kydex sheath should be removed before heating it. Once sufficiently heated, insert the knife back into the sheath and pinch it at that particular area to tighten it, as seen in image 2. Once it cools, it should be tighter.
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
After the Kydex is heated, it will be hot to the touch. Therefore, I do not expect you to use your naked fingers for the pinching. I only used my fingers in the "pinch it" image above so you could visualize how to do it. You could wear gloves when pinching, use a branch, or even create some tongs, as I did in the images above. Note: You do not want to use an open flame to heat the Kydex, as it could wreck it. All you need is heat, and the embers from a campfire will effectively provide that. You also do not want your sheath to be extremely tight, as it will make it difficult to remove and re-insert the knife and cause the Kydex to flex that much more, increasing the chance of cracking.
If you have qualms about heating your Kydex sheath on a bunch of embers, there are a few other methods you can exhaust before resorting to it. Depending on your sheath's carry system, you could use the cordage, cord lock or shock cord methods from above. Below, I will present a few additional variations to help you retain a knife in a sheath using cordage.
Additional retention fixes -
After the Kydex is heated, it will be hot to the touch. Therefore, I do not expect you to use your naked fingers for the pinching. I only used my fingers in the "pinch it" image above so you could visualize how to do it. You could wear gloves when pinching, use a branch, or even create some tongs, as I did in the images above. Note: You do not want to use an open flame to heat the Kydex, as it could wreck it. All you need is heat, and the embers from a campfire will effectively provide that. You also do not want your sheath to be extremely tight, as it will make it difficult to remove and re-insert the knife and cause the Kydex to flex that much more, increasing the chance of cracking.
If you have qualms about heating your Kydex sheath on a bunch of embers, there are a few other methods you can exhaust before resorting to it. Depending on your sheath's carry system, you could use the cordage, cord lock or shock cord methods from above. Below, I will present a few additional variations to help you retain a knife in a sheath using cordage.
Additional retention fixes -
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
In the two images above, I have presented an alternative way to use a shock cord to retain a knife in a sheath (for vertical carry). Inserting some shock cord through a knife's lanyard hole and tying a knot will secure the shock cord to the knife. Once the knife is inside the sheath, pulling the shock cord over the sheath and allowing the cord to rest on the back section of the sheath will secure the knife. Pulling the shock cord back over the sheath will allow you to remove the knife. For this method to work, your knife must have a lanyard hole. The sheath must also have a section on the backside for the shock cord to rest against.
Note: This method may not work for bigger knives with bigger sheaths.
In the two images above, I have presented an alternative way to use a shock cord to retain a knife in a sheath (for vertical carry). Inserting some shock cord through a knife's lanyard hole and tying a knot will secure the shock cord to the knife. Once the knife is inside the sheath, pulling the shock cord over the sheath and allowing the cord to rest on the back section of the sheath will secure the knife. Pulling the shock cord back over the sheath will allow you to remove the knife. For this method to work, your knife must have a lanyard hole. The sheath must also have a section on the backside for the shock cord to rest against.
Note: This method may not work for bigger knives with bigger sheaths.
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
The same method can work on sheaths that are carried horizontally as well. After affixing the shock cord to a knife via the lanyard hole and inserting the knife into the sheath, pulling the shock cord over the sheath and allowing it to rest against the horizontal carry strap will secure the knife. Pulling the shock cord back over will allow you to remove the knife.
Note: You must carry some shock cord in your pack to use this method in the field.
The same method can work on sheaths that are carried horizontally as well. After affixing the shock cord to a knife via the lanyard hole and inserting the knife into the sheath, pulling the shock cord over the sheath and allowing it to rest against the horizontal carry strap will secure the knife. Pulling the shock cord back over will allow you to remove the knife.
Note: You must carry some shock cord in your pack to use this method in the field.
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
If you do not have any shock cord, you can create an adjustable loop with regular cordage. Inserting some cordage through a knife's lanyard hole and tying a sliding knot will affix the cordage to the knife and create an adjustable loop. To learn how to create a sliding knot, click here. Once the knife is in the sheath, pulling the cordage attached to the knife over the sheath and manually tightening the loop will secure the knife. Manually loosening the loop and pulling it back over the sheath will allow you to remove the knife. Manually loosening and tightening the loop will get annoying, though this method will secure the knife
If you do not have any shock cord, you can create an adjustable loop with regular cordage. Inserting some cordage through a knife's lanyard hole and tying a sliding knot will affix the cordage to the knife and create an adjustable loop. To learn how to create a sliding knot, click here. Once the knife is in the sheath, pulling the cordage attached to the knife over the sheath and manually tightening the loop will secure the knife. Manually loosening the loop and pulling it back over the sheath will allow you to remove the knife. Manually loosening and tightening the loop will get annoying, though this method will secure the knife
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
The last fix I will present will require regular cordage. Inserting some cordage through a knife's lanyard hole and tying a knot close to the handle will secure the cordage to the knife. You should now have two cords dangling down from the knot, like in image 1. Once the knife is in the sheath, inserting one of those cords through a hole in the Kydex sheath and tying it to the other cord will secure the knife. Untying the second knot and removing the cord from the hole will allow you to remove the knife. The first knot attaches the cordage to the knife, and the second knot prevents the knife from falling out of the sheath.
These fixes can also work for leather and nylon sheaths, depending on how they are configured. All the fixes I have presented thus far should give you a rough idea of how you would fix the retention issue on your knife sheath in the field.
I will now address the cracking problem.
The last fix I will present will require regular cordage. Inserting some cordage through a knife's lanyard hole and tying a knot close to the handle will secure the cordage to the knife. You should now have two cords dangling down from the knot, like in image 1. Once the knife is in the sheath, inserting one of those cords through a hole in the Kydex sheath and tying it to the other cord will secure the knife. Untying the second knot and removing the cord from the hole will allow you to remove the knife. The first knot attaches the cordage to the knife, and the second knot prevents the knife from falling out of the sheath.
These fixes can also work for leather and nylon sheaths, depending on how they are configured. All the fixes I have presented thus far should give you a rough idea of how you would fix the retention issue on your knife sheath in the field.
I will now address the cracking problem.
The image used above was taken by me from my smartphone.
As mentioned above, a Kydex sheath will flex and can crack. In extremely cold conditions, the chance of cracking significantly increases upon flexing. If you sense your Kydex sheath has become cold and hard, warming it back to a normal temperature with your body heat or a campfire should decrease the chances of it cracking. That said, what can you do if the sheath has already been cracked? A cracked sheath will be on the verge of falling apart and most likely will not retain a knife adequately. A paracord wrap is a potential solution. Performing a paracord wrap will keep the Kydex sheath in one piece and can also tighten the sheath, assisting with retention. To learn how to perform a paracord wrap, click here. If the sheath does not adequately retain the knife after wrapping it in paracord, you will have to use one of the retention fixes I have presented above.
As mentioned above, a Kydex sheath will flex and can crack. In extremely cold conditions, the chance of cracking significantly increases upon flexing. If you sense your Kydex sheath has become cold and hard, warming it back to a normal temperature with your body heat or a campfire should decrease the chances of it cracking. That said, what can you do if the sheath has already been cracked? A cracked sheath will be on the verge of falling apart and most likely will not retain a knife adequately. A paracord wrap is a potential solution. Performing a paracord wrap will keep the Kydex sheath in one piece and can also tighten the sheath, assisting with retention. To learn how to perform a paracord wrap, click here. If the sheath does not adequately retain the knife after wrapping it in paracord, you will have to use one of the retention fixes I have presented above.
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
If the sheath has straps for horizontal carrying, you will still be able to wrap it with paracord. There are two ways to do this. You can either go around the strap or wrap the sheath in sections.
Custom & Aftermarket Kydex sheaths -
If you buy a knife and get a sheath with it that you do not like, you could get a custom Kydex sheath made. Unlike a custom leather sheath, you must send your knife to the sheath maker for it to be moulded. If the sheath maker has the same knife in his collection, he could use it for the moulding process. Humans often say that Kydex sheaths are cheaper in price. This is only true if you buy a plain Kydex sheath without any attachments. If you want a Kydex sheath configured in a particular way, it will become expensive. This is because belt loops, straps, ferro rod holders, and any other attachments will be an additional charge.
If the knife you bought is popular, pre-moulded aftermarket Kydex sheaths may be available for purchase. Keep in mind that these pre-moulded sheaths are designed for the original knife. If your knife has been modified in any way, chances are it will not fit the sheath properly. In addition, you may not get to choose how the sheath is configured for carrying, as what they offer is what you will get.
Kydex sheath profiles -
If the sheath has straps for horizontal carrying, you will still be able to wrap it with paracord. There are two ways to do this. You can either go around the strap or wrap the sheath in sections.
Custom & Aftermarket Kydex sheaths -
If you buy a knife and get a sheath with it that you do not like, you could get a custom Kydex sheath made. Unlike a custom leather sheath, you must send your knife to the sheath maker for it to be moulded. If the sheath maker has the same knife in his collection, he could use it for the moulding process. Humans often say that Kydex sheaths are cheaper in price. This is only true if you buy a plain Kydex sheath without any attachments. If you want a Kydex sheath configured in a particular way, it will become expensive. This is because belt loops, straps, ferro rod holders, and any other attachments will be an additional charge.
If the knife you bought is popular, pre-moulded aftermarket Kydex sheaths may be available for purchase. Keep in mind that these pre-moulded sheaths are designed for the original knife. If your knife has been modified in any way, chances are it will not fit the sheath properly. In addition, you may not get to choose how the sheath is configured for carrying, as what they offer is what you will get.
Kydex sheath profiles -
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
Kydex sheaths usually come in two styles: taco and pancake. A pancake-style sheath is created by joining two separate sheets of Kydex together with the help of rivets. On the other hand, a taco-style sheath uses a single sheet of Kydex that is folded over and closed using rivets. The difference is not necessarily in quality. A taco-style sheath will have a slimmer profile and be cheaper in price. A pancake-style sheath, on the other hand, will have a bigger profile, more attachment options and be more expensive because more materials are used to create it. It is simply a matter of preference as to which style of Kydex sheath you want.
Lastly, I want to mention two additional features to consider on Kydex sheaths before I wrap this up (not in paracord).
Thumb ramp -
Kydex sheaths usually come in two styles: taco and pancake. A pancake-style sheath is created by joining two separate sheets of Kydex together with the help of rivets. On the other hand, a taco-style sheath uses a single sheet of Kydex that is folded over and closed using rivets. The difference is not necessarily in quality. A taco-style sheath will have a slimmer profile and be cheaper in price. A pancake-style sheath, on the other hand, will have a bigger profile, more attachment options and be more expensive because more materials are used to create it. It is simply a matter of preference as to which style of Kydex sheath you want.
Lastly, I want to mention two additional features to consider on Kydex sheaths before I wrap this up (not in paracord).
Thumb ramp -
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
A thumb ramp is an area on a Kydex sheath on which you can place your thumb. It allows you to comfortably remove a knife from a sheath using one hand by simply pressing down on it. A thumb ramp is preferable.
Drainage hole -
A thumb ramp is an area on a Kydex sheath on which you can place your thumb. It allows you to comfortably remove a knife from a sheath using one hand by simply pressing down on it. A thumb ramp is preferable.
Drainage hole -
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
A drainage hole is a hole usually found near the bottom of a sheath. It will be useful when cleaning the Kydex sheath, allowing smaller debris particles and water to run out of it easily. A drainage hole also prevents moisture from being trapped, protecting the knife blade from rust.
Note: Drainage holes are not limited to Kydex sheaths and are often found on leather sheaths as well.
Summary -
A Kydex sheath is durable, weather-resistant, and easy to clean in the field. It is not fragile like leather, so you can be carefree when removing and re-inserting a knife from it. You also do not have to fiddle with snaps or velcro as with nylon sheaths, making Kydex hassle-free. A Kydex sheath is designed for quick and easy deployment, meaning a knife can be easily removed from it with one hand alone. As you insert a knife into a Kydex sheath, you will hear a satisfying snap, notifying you that your knife is securely in the sheath (a feature you will also find on a wet-formed leather sheath).
The carry system on Kydex sheaths can be complex, as they can be configured in many ways with many attachments available for purchase. This can make it quite daunting for a novice who is just getting into all of this.
As already mentioned, extremely cold conditions can be unfavourable for Kydex, as it increases the chance of it cracking. At the same time, extremely hot conditions will also be unfriendly to Kydex, as the heat can cause it to deform. Extreme temperatures will be something to watch out for with Kydex.
Lastly, Kydex is capable of scratching blades. Some humans do not like scratches on their blades because they can be aesthetically displeasing. However, this is not the only potential problem. If Kydex can scratch the surface of a blade, theoretically, it can also dull the cutting edge. Kydex dulling a knife's cutting edge is not as common, though it is something to pay attention to.
This concludes the sheath section. I will now cover a few more features you may want to consider on a belt knife.
Sharpening choil -
A drainage hole is a hole usually found near the bottom of a sheath. It will be useful when cleaning the Kydex sheath, allowing smaller debris particles and water to run out of it easily. A drainage hole also prevents moisture from being trapped, protecting the knife blade from rust.
Note: Drainage holes are not limited to Kydex sheaths and are often found on leather sheaths as well.
Summary -
A Kydex sheath is durable, weather-resistant, and easy to clean in the field. It is not fragile like leather, so you can be carefree when removing and re-inserting a knife from it. You also do not have to fiddle with snaps or velcro as with nylon sheaths, making Kydex hassle-free. A Kydex sheath is designed for quick and easy deployment, meaning a knife can be easily removed from it with one hand alone. As you insert a knife into a Kydex sheath, you will hear a satisfying snap, notifying you that your knife is securely in the sheath (a feature you will also find on a wet-formed leather sheath).
The carry system on Kydex sheaths can be complex, as they can be configured in many ways with many attachments available for purchase. This can make it quite daunting for a novice who is just getting into all of this.
As already mentioned, extremely cold conditions can be unfavourable for Kydex, as it increases the chance of it cracking. At the same time, extremely hot conditions will also be unfriendly to Kydex, as the heat can cause it to deform. Extreme temperatures will be something to watch out for with Kydex.
Lastly, Kydex is capable of scratching blades. Some humans do not like scratches on their blades because they can be aesthetically displeasing. However, this is not the only potential problem. If Kydex can scratch the surface of a blade, theoretically, it can also dull the cutting edge. Kydex dulling a knife's cutting edge is not as common, though it is something to pay attention to.
This concludes the sheath section. I will now cover a few more features you may want to consider on a belt knife.
Sharpening choil -
The image used above was taken from the Knives and Tools website. Clicking on the image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
A sharpening choil is a small notch ground on the cutting edge close to the handle. It will help you sharpen the whole cutting edge. Without one, it can be difficult to sharpen the entire edge, as a slight portion near the handle can remain dull. Some knives will have one, while others will not. I recommend a knife with a sharpening choil, especially for a novice.
Finger choil -
A sharpening choil is a small notch ground on the cutting edge close to the handle. It will help you sharpen the whole cutting edge. Without one, it can be difficult to sharpen the entire edge, as a slight portion near the handle can remain dull. Some knives will have one, while others will not. I recommend a knife with a sharpening choil, especially for a novice.
Finger choil -
The image used above was taken from the Knives and Tools website. Clicking on the image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
Speaking of choils, some knives have bigger choils, known as finger choils. A finger choil is a slot ground on the cutting edge, close to the handle, designed for a user's index finger. It allows the wielder of the knife to grip it closer to the cutting blade, giving more control when performing finer carving tasks. In my opinion, finger choils will be more effective on larger blades than shorter blades because shorter blades are easier to wield and control as they are. A finger choil on a shorter blade will just take away from the cutting edge, though you will find smaller blades with finger choils.
Protruding tang -
Speaking of choils, some knives have bigger choils, known as finger choils. A finger choil is a slot ground on the cutting edge, close to the handle, designed for a user's index finger. It allows the wielder of the knife to grip it closer to the cutting blade, giving more control when performing finer carving tasks. In my opinion, finger choils will be more effective on larger blades than shorter blades because shorter blades are easier to wield and control as they are. A finger choil on a shorter blade will just take away from the cutting edge, though you will find smaller blades with finger choils.
Protruding tang -
The images used above were taken from the Knives and Tools website. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
A protruding tang, also known as a pommel, is a slight extension of the tang past the handle and can be used to crush and hammer a surface or an object. A protruding tang can also be used to strike a human in self-defense if you do not want to use the blade or tip of your knife. In addition, a pommel can be pounded on so that you can use the knife somewhat like a chisel. If you were to use a knife without a protruding tang in this manner, you would risk damaging the handle.
Blade curve -
A protruding tang, also known as a pommel, is a slight extension of the tang past the handle and can be used to crush and hammer a surface or an object. A protruding tang can also be used to strike a human in self-defense if you do not want to use the blade or tip of your knife. In addition, a pommel can be pounded on so that you can use the knife somewhat like a chisel. If you were to use a knife without a protruding tang in this manner, you would risk damaging the handle.
Blade curve -
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
A blade with a pronounced curve (or big belly) will be good at slicing and slashing and work well for tasks like skinning. On the other hand, a blade with a slight curve (or little to no belly) will be better at piercing and carving notches in wood. A blade with little to no belly can also be easier to sharpen than a blade with a pronounced belly.
90 degree spine -
A blade with a pronounced curve (or big belly) will be good at slicing and slashing and work well for tasks like skinning. On the other hand, a blade with a slight curve (or little to no belly) will be better at piercing and carving notches in wood. A blade with little to no belly can also be easier to sharpen than a blade with a pronounced belly.
90 degree spine -
The images used above are screenshots taken from David Canterbury's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
Having a sharp 90-degree spine on a knife is a valuable asset. With it, you can scrape material, like from a ferrocerium rod, which is a fire-starting device. Ferrocerium rods are discussed in the [II] COMBUSTION chapter. A sharp spine will also allow you to scrape wood, creating fine scrapings. These scrapings will be fine enough to easily catch a spark produced by a ferrocerium rod, giving you a flame from which you can build a fire. Though many ferrocerium rods will come with strikers, they tend not to be as effective as a knife's 90-degree spine. Some knives will come with a sharp spine, while others will not. If your knife does not have a sharp spine, you could manually put one on yourself with the help of a file, a coarse sharpening stone, or some coarse sandpaper. A 90-degree spine is similar to a knife's cutting edge in that both will not remain sharp forever. As a result, the spine will need to be occasionally touched up to maintain a sharp edge. Sharpening is discussed in the [VII] MAINTENANCE chapter.
I will now cover three things that can interfere with a 90-degree spine.
1) Coatings -
Having a sharp 90-degree spine on a knife is a valuable asset. With it, you can scrape material, like from a ferrocerium rod, which is a fire-starting device. Ferrocerium rods are discussed in the [II] COMBUSTION chapter. A sharp spine will also allow you to scrape wood, creating fine scrapings. These scrapings will be fine enough to easily catch a spark produced by a ferrocerium rod, giving you a flame from which you can build a fire. Though many ferrocerium rods will come with strikers, they tend not to be as effective as a knife's 90-degree spine. Some knives will come with a sharp spine, while others will not. If your knife does not have a sharp spine, you could manually put one on yourself with the help of a file, a coarse sharpening stone, or some coarse sandpaper. A 90-degree spine is similar to a knife's cutting edge in that both will not remain sharp forever. As a result, the spine will need to be occasionally touched up to maintain a sharp edge. Sharpening is discussed in the [VII] MAINTENANCE chapter.
I will now cover three things that can interfere with a 90-degree spine.
1) Coatings -
The images used above were taken from the Knives and Tools website. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
A blade covered in a thicker coating will cover a knife's spine and prevent it from removing material. This is why manufacturers typically leave the spine unsharpened whenever a thick coating is to be applied to a blade. A thinner coating on a blade with a sharp spine will still remove material. Note: It is the thicker coatings that hinder the spine from removing material.
2) Differential heat treatment -
As mentioned, knife makers who differentially heat treat their knives tend to keep the area around the spine soft. A soft spine will not hold a sharp edge for very long, requiring frequent touch-ups, which will get frustrating quickly.
3) An alternative feature -
A blade covered in a thicker coating will cover a knife's spine and prevent it from removing material. This is why manufacturers typically leave the spine unsharpened whenever a thick coating is to be applied to a blade. A thinner coating on a blade with a sharp spine will still remove material. Note: It is the thicker coatings that hinder the spine from removing material.
2) Differential heat treatment -
As mentioned, knife makers who differentially heat treat their knives tend to keep the area around the spine soft. A soft spine will not hold a sharp edge for very long, requiring frequent touch-ups, which will get frustrating quickly.
3) An alternative feature -
The images used above were taken from Pixabay and are free for commercial use. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate image & uploader.
Instead of a 90-degree spine, some knives may offer another feature in its place, like a second cutting edge or a saw.
[1] Two-edged knife - Having two cutting edges on a single knife may seem like a good idea, as it gives you double the edge retention. In addition, if one edge were to become damaged, you could simply switch to the other without immediately repairing the damaged one. You could even reprofile one of the edges so it can handle heavy-duty tasks and reprofile the other for finer tasks. Unfortunately, the second edge will chew up and destroy your baton when it comes to batoning. You will also not be able to place your thumb on the spine for extra control when carving with a two-edged knife. When it comes to removing material, a second edge can be used for scraping, though there is a chance it can become damaged.
[2] Saw back - Saws on knives are not as effective as real saws, though they can be used to score and make notches in wood.
Serrations -
Instead of a 90-degree spine, some knives may offer another feature in its place, like a second cutting edge or a saw.
[1] Two-edged knife - Having two cutting edges on a single knife may seem like a good idea, as it gives you double the edge retention. In addition, if one edge were to become damaged, you could simply switch to the other without immediately repairing the damaged one. You could even reprofile one of the edges so it can handle heavy-duty tasks and reprofile the other for finer tasks. Unfortunately, the second edge will chew up and destroy your baton when it comes to batoning. You will also not be able to place your thumb on the spine for extra control when carving with a two-edged knife. When it comes to removing material, a second edge can be used for scraping, though there is a chance it can become damaged.
[2] Saw back - Saws on knives are not as effective as real saws, though they can be used to score and make notches in wood.
Serrations -
The image used above was taken from the Amazon website. Clicking on the image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
Some knives are fully serrated, while others are serrated in part, like the knife in the image above. Serrations excel at slicing through tough, man-made materials like rope, seat belts, heavy-duty webbing, etc. Considering that such materials are not commonly found in a woodland environment, not including litter humans discard, serrations will not give you any major advantage. A plain edge will be more versatile as it can do everything a serrated edge can do, even if it may take slightly more effort when cutting tougher materials. On the plus side, serrations are said to have superior edge retention, meaning you will not have to re-sharpen them as often as a plain edge. To properly sharpen serrations, you will need a tapered sharpening rod, whereas a plain edge could be sharpened using a smooth rock from the ground if you really had to.
Knife points -
Some knives are fully serrated, while others are serrated in part, like the knife in the image above. Serrations excel at slicing through tough, man-made materials like rope, seat belts, heavy-duty webbing, etc. Considering that such materials are not commonly found in a woodland environment, not including litter humans discard, serrations will not give you any major advantage. A plain edge will be more versatile as it can do everything a serrated edge can do, even if it may take slightly more effort when cutting tougher materials. On the plus side, serrations are said to have superior edge retention, meaning you will not have to re-sharpen them as often as a plain edge. To properly sharpen serrations, you will need a tapered sharpening rod, whereas a plain edge could be sharpened using a smooth rock from the ground if you really had to.
Knife points -
The images used above were taken from the Knives and Tools website. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
Above, I have listed the four main points found on knives: the spear point, clip point, tanto and drop point. A tanto point is strong and efficient at piercing through objects. The clip point also excels at piercing, which is why it is used on so many fighting knives. It can, however, be fragile for tasks like prying. I personally recommend choosing a spear point or a drop point blade because they are well-rounded and suitable for a wide range of tasks. I recommend doing more of your own research on knife points if you are unsure.
Chopper:
Above, I have listed the four main points found on knives: the spear point, clip point, tanto and drop point. A tanto point is strong and efficient at piercing through objects. The clip point also excels at piercing, which is why it is used on so many fighting knives. It can, however, be fragile for tasks like prying. I personally recommend choosing a spear point or a drop point blade because they are well-rounded and suitable for a wide range of tasks. I recommend doing more of your own research on knife points if you are unsure.
Chopper:
All the images used above were taken from Pixabay and are free for commercial use. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate image & uploader.
Many cutting tools fit into the "chopper" category. However, in this section, I will focus solely on axes, as I believe they are the better choice for a woodland environment. The tool you pick should depend on your location, as some tools will perform better in certain settings than others.
Many cutting tools fit into the "chopper" category. However, in this section, I will focus solely on axes, as I believe they are the better choice for a woodland environment. The tool you pick should depend on your location, as some tools will perform better in certain settings than others.
The image used above is a screenshot taken from David Canterbury's YouTube video. It is used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on the image will take you to the original video.
For example, a bigger knife will be more effective than an axe at clearing a trail like the one seen in the image above. It will be difficult to swing an axe safely through such dense bushes. A knife, on the other hand, will effectively delimb branches with short, swift chops with the flick of the wrist, successfully clearing the trail.
For example, a bigger knife will be more effective than an axe at clearing a trail like the one seen in the image above. It will be difficult to swing an axe safely through such dense bushes. A knife, on the other hand, will effectively delimb branches with short, swift chops with the flick of the wrist, successfully clearing the trail.
The image used above was taken from Pixabay and is free for commercial use. Clicking on the image will take you to the original image & uploader.
There is a story in the Bible of a fight between David and Goliath. Goliath was 9 feet 9 inches tall, though many humans argue about his "real" height. Goliath was covered in armour and had a sword and a spear. His body armour alone probably weighed more than David's body weight. King Saul equipped David with a brass helmet, body armour and a sword. Just as David was about to leave, he realized he could not fight Goliath with the armour and sword because he had never used them before. As a result, he removes all the gear he was equipped with and instead chooses five smooth stones from a brook and a sling as his weapon of choice. The humans around him probably thought he was incredibly stupid for discarding the body armour and sword. Nonetheless, he went with what he was comfortable with, and yes, he got the job done.
Even though my preferred chopper is an axe, you should pick a chopper that is most suited to your environment and your abilities. King Saul was older than David and, I guess, more experienced too. According to Saul, a helmet, body armour, and a sword would have been the best approach to defeating Goliath. Perhaps Saul's way was superior to David's, or perhaps Saul was trying to get David killed. Either way, because David was uncomfortable with Saul's approach, the fight probably would have taken longer and been harder if he had adopted Saul's way.
Note: Use and test your gear so that you are comfortable with it.
Purpose of a chopper -
There is a story in the Bible of a fight between David and Goliath. Goliath was 9 feet 9 inches tall, though many humans argue about his "real" height. Goliath was covered in armour and had a sword and a spear. His body armour alone probably weighed more than David's body weight. King Saul equipped David with a brass helmet, body armour and a sword. Just as David was about to leave, he realized he could not fight Goliath with the armour and sword because he had never used them before. As a result, he removes all the gear he was equipped with and instead chooses five smooth stones from a brook and a sling as his weapon of choice. The humans around him probably thought he was incredibly stupid for discarding the body armour and sword. Nonetheless, he went with what he was comfortable with, and yes, he got the job done.
Even though my preferred chopper is an axe, you should pick a chopper that is most suited to your environment and your abilities. King Saul was older than David and, I guess, more experienced too. According to Saul, a helmet, body armour, and a sword would have been the best approach to defeating Goliath. Perhaps Saul's way was superior to David's, or perhaps Saul was trying to get David killed. Either way, because David was uncomfortable with Saul's approach, the fight probably would have taken longer and been harder if he had adopted Saul's way.
Note: Use and test your gear so that you are comfortable with it.
Purpose of a chopper -
Image 1 was taken from Pixabay and is free for commercial use. Images 2 & 3 were taken from Pexels and are free to use. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate image and uploader.
There are different kinds of axes for different tasks. For example, there are felling axes for chopping down trees, splitting axes for splitting logs, carpenter's axes for shaping wood, etc. Before you can pick an appropriate axe, you need to know what you need it for. What is the purpose of a chopper in your kit? The primary purpose of a chopper is to process wood. Your chopper should be able to easily chop down smaller trees and further chop them into logs. Your chopper should also be able to split these logs further for fires and smaller projects. Lastly, your chopper should be able to shape wood, or in other words, remove excess material from a block of wood. In short, your chopper must be able to chop, split and shape. Carrying three separate axes in a backpack is unrealistic and impractical. You must choose one axe capable of all three tasks mentioned above.
Below, I will discuss axes in detail so that you can understand them better.
Axes explained -
There are different kinds of axes for different tasks. For example, there are felling axes for chopping down trees, splitting axes for splitting logs, carpenter's axes for shaping wood, etc. Before you can pick an appropriate axe, you need to know what you need it for. What is the purpose of a chopper in your kit? The primary purpose of a chopper is to process wood. Your chopper should be able to easily chop down smaller trees and further chop them into logs. Your chopper should also be able to split these logs further for fires and smaller projects. Lastly, your chopper should be able to shape wood, or in other words, remove excess material from a block of wood. In short, your chopper must be able to chop, split and shape. Carrying three separate axes in a backpack is unrealistic and impractical. You must choose one axe capable of all three tasks mentioned above.
Below, I will discuss axes in detail so that you can understand them better.
Axes explained -
The image used above is a screenshot taken from Coalcracker Bushcraft's YouTube video. It is used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on the image will take you to the original video.
Axes with thicker heads excel at splitting because their wider profile allows the wood to be pulled apart easily upon impact. They do not, however, possess the bite required to chop effectively. On the other hand, thinner axe heads are much better at chopping as they are able to bite into the wood, effectively taking chunks out of it. Thinner heads are likely to get stuck in a piece of wood when attempting to split it because they lack the thickness to pull the wood apart. Thinner heads will also be better at shaping, as they can competently remove chunks of material from wood.
Axes with thicker heads excel at splitting because their wider profile allows the wood to be pulled apart easily upon impact. They do not, however, possess the bite required to chop effectively. On the other hand, thinner axe heads are much better at chopping as they are able to bite into the wood, effectively taking chunks out of it. Thinner heads are likely to get stuck in a piece of wood when attempting to split it because they lack the thickness to pull the wood apart. Thinner heads will also be better at shaping, as they can competently remove chunks of material from wood.
The images used above were taken from Pixabay and are free for commercial use. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate image & uploader.
Some axes will have shorter handles, and some will have longer handles. Axes with longer handles will usually have heavier heads mounted on them, and those with shorter handles will have lighter heads mounted on them. Axes that have shorter handles are often referred to as "hatchets." A hatchet is basically a smaller version of an axe and is commonly swung with one hand, as there is not enough space on the handle to swing a hatchet with both hands like you would an axe. A hatchet's smaller size and lighter weight will make it more packable and easier to wield, especially when shaping wood. However, it will not chop or split as well as an axe with a heavier head and longer handle because less penetrating power is generated when swinging a hatchet with one hand. An axe with a heavier head and longer handle, on the other hand, can be swung with both hands, allowing you to use hip drive when swinging it, generating more power. The longer handle and heavier head can make an axe less packable and also interfere when attempting to shape wood.
Some axes will have shorter handles, and some will have longer handles. Axes with longer handles will usually have heavier heads mounted on them, and those with shorter handles will have lighter heads mounted on them. Axes that have shorter handles are often referred to as "hatchets." A hatchet is basically a smaller version of an axe and is commonly swung with one hand, as there is not enough space on the handle to swing a hatchet with both hands like you would an axe. A hatchet's smaller size and lighter weight will make it more packable and easier to wield, especially when shaping wood. However, it will not chop or split as well as an axe with a heavier head and longer handle because less penetrating power is generated when swinging a hatchet with one hand. An axe with a heavier head and longer handle, on the other hand, can be swung with both hands, allowing you to use hip drive when swinging it, generating more power. The longer handle and heavier head can make an axe less packable and also interfere when attempting to shape wood.
The images used above were taken from Pexels and are free to use. Clicking on each image will take you to the original image and uploader.
The heavier the axe head, the deeper the head will sink into the wood upon impact. At the same time, combining a long handle with a heavy head will allow you to generate more penetrating power, allowing the axe to chop and split wood effectively. Bigger trees require an axe with a heavier head, while smaller trees can be taken down with a lighter one. A heavier axe head can take down smaller trees, though using a lighter head on bigger trees will be time-consuming and inefficient. So, what kind of axe will be suitable as a chopper?
Axe brands -
The heavier the axe head, the deeper the head will sink into the wood upon impact. At the same time, combining a long handle with a heavy head will allow you to generate more penetrating power, allowing the axe to chop and split wood effectively. Bigger trees require an axe with a heavier head, while smaller trees can be taken down with a lighter one. A heavier axe head can take down smaller trees, though using a lighter head on bigger trees will be time-consuming and inefficient. So, what kind of axe will be suitable as a chopper?
Axe brands -
The image above was compiled using brands logos I found on the manufacturers websites. Clicking on each brand name will take you to their official website: WETTERLINGS, GRANSFORS BRUK, FISKARS, Husqvarna & Hultafors.
Above, I have listed some companies that produce good-quality axes. I recommend looking at axes that fall into the "hunters axe" or "forest axe" categories. These axes will typically have a handle between 17 and 22 inches long and a head that weighs between 700 and 1000 grams (could be more or less). An axe in range with the length and weight stated above can be swung with both hands for effective chopping and splitting and also wielded in one hand for shaping wood. The handle will not be so long and should not interfere when shaping wood. Such an axe will be packable and suited for smaller trees, which means it will have limitations. If you try to process bigger pieces of wood with an axe of this sort, there is a chance the axe may get stuck. What then?
Solutions & Techniques -
Above, I have listed some companies that produce good-quality axes. I recommend looking at axes that fall into the "hunters axe" or "forest axe" categories. These axes will typically have a handle between 17 and 22 inches long and a head that weighs between 700 and 1000 grams (could be more or less). An axe in range with the length and weight stated above can be swung with both hands for effective chopping and splitting and also wielded in one hand for shaping wood. The handle will not be so long and should not interfere when shaping wood. Such an axe will be packable and suited for smaller trees, which means it will have limitations. If you try to process bigger pieces of wood with an axe of this sort, there is a chance the axe may get stuck. What then?
Solutions & Techniques -
The images used above are screenshots taken from TA Outdoors's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on any image will take you to the original video.
Before you begin splitting wood, making a couple of wooden wedges would be a good idea. If your axe gets stuck in some wood, a wooden wedge will allow you to free your axe and split the wood simultaneously. When an axe head sinks into a log, a crack will form in it, even if the axe is stuck. Pounding a wooden wedge into the crack will widen the crack, freeing the axe. Pounding on the wedge some more will cause it to sink in deeper and split the log. Depending on the size of the log, you may have to insert multiple wooden wedges into the crack to split it. Wooden wedges can become damaged when used in this manner, which is why making multiple wedges would be wise. To learn how to make a wooden wedge and see this whole process happen, I recommend clicking on any image from above to watch it on the TA Outdoors YouTube channel.
Before you begin splitting wood, making a couple of wooden wedges would be a good idea. If your axe gets stuck in some wood, a wooden wedge will allow you to free your axe and split the wood simultaneously. When an axe head sinks into a log, a crack will form in it, even if the axe is stuck. Pounding a wooden wedge into the crack will widen the crack, freeing the axe. Pounding on the wedge some more will cause it to sink in deeper and split the log. Depending on the size of the log, you may have to insert multiple wooden wedges into the crack to split it. Wooden wedges can become damaged when used in this manner, which is why making multiple wedges would be wise. To learn how to make a wooden wedge and see this whole process happen, I recommend clicking on any image from above to watch it on the TA Outdoors YouTube channel.
The images used above are screenshots taken from Coalcracker Bushcraft's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image from above will take you to the original video.
Alternatively, when faced with a large block of wood that your axe is not designed to handle, splitting small sections at a time will allow you to process the wood without getting your axe stuck.
Alternatively, when faced with a large block of wood that your axe is not designed to handle, splitting small sections at a time will allow you to process the wood without getting your axe stuck.
The images used above are screenshots taken from Ray Mears & Woodlore Ltd's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on any image will take you to the original video.
Axes with longer handles are generally safer because there will be more space between you and the axe head when swinging it. This means the axe head is likely to bury itself in the ground rather than your lower body if you accidentally miss your swing. Because our axe is going into our pack, it will be packable and thus have a shorter handle. As a result, you must take extra care when swinging it. Below, I will briefly present information and techniques to help you use a portable axe safely.
Axes with longer handles are generally safer because there will be more space between you and the axe head when swinging it. This means the axe head is likely to bury itself in the ground rather than your lower body if you accidentally miss your swing. Because our axe is going into our pack, it will be packable and thus have a shorter handle. As a result, you must take extra care when swinging it. Below, I will briefly present information and techniques to help you use a portable axe safely.
The image used above is a screenshot taken from Ray Mears & Woodlore Ltd's YouTube video. It is used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on the image will take you to the original video.
Though it is preferable if the axe head hits the ground rather than your lower body, neither is ideal. The ground will be full of debris and small rocks, capable of prematurely dulling or damaging the axe's cutting edge. This is why logs are commonly split on top of a chopping block, a block of wood sourced from a large tree. A chopping block decreases an axe's range of motion. If you missed the log sitting on the chopping block, instead of hitting your lower body or the ground, the axe would hit the block. Similarly, if an axe splits a log all the way through, it will hit the chopping block and not the ground or yourself.
Though it is preferable if the axe head hits the ground rather than your lower body, neither is ideal. The ground will be full of debris and small rocks, capable of prematurely dulling or damaging the axe's cutting edge. This is why logs are commonly split on top of a chopping block, a block of wood sourced from a large tree. A chopping block decreases an axe's range of motion. If you missed the log sitting on the chopping block, instead of hitting your lower body or the ground, the axe would hit the block. Similarly, if an axe splits a log all the way through, it will hit the chopping block and not the ground or yourself.
The images used above are screenshots taken from MCQ Bushcraft & Wilderness Life's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
Though it is better if an axe head sinks into a chopping block than into yourself or the ground, constantly hitting the block can prematurely dull the axe. Instead of swinging straight down all the way when splitting, just as you are coming down, flicking the axe head at an angle will effectively pull apart the log without touching the block. This can be seen in image 2.
Though it is better if an axe head sinks into a chopping block than into yourself or the ground, constantly hitting the block can prematurely dull the axe. Instead of swinging straight down all the way when splitting, just as you are coming down, flicking the axe head at an angle will effectively pull apart the log without touching the block. This can be seen in image 2.
The images used above are screenshots taken from Ray Mears & Woodlore Ltd's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
When attempting to split a log on a chopping block, it is wise to place the log on the far side. This way, a part of the block will be between you and the axe head. If you miss your swing, the axe head will hit the chopping block and not you.
When attempting to split a log on a chopping block, it is wise to place the log on the far side. This way, a part of the block will be between you and the axe head. If you miss your swing, the axe head will hit the chopping block and not you.
The image used above is a screenshot taken from MCQ Bushcraft & Wilderness Life's YouTube video. It is used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on the image will take you to the original video.
Bending your knees or squatting when swinging an axe will further decrease an axe's range of motion, reducing the chance of injury.
Bending your knees or squatting when swinging an axe will further decrease an axe's range of motion, reducing the chance of injury.
The images used above are screenshots taken from Ray Mears & Woodlore Ltd's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
Swinging an axe while kneeling is a safer way to split logs because it significantly decreases the axe's range of motion. Splitting logs like this can take more effort, though the chance of injury is substantially reduced. In addition, if you have a lot of wood to split during a heavy downpour, this method can be successfully used under a tarpaulin.
Swinging an axe while kneeling is a safer way to split logs because it significantly decreases the axe's range of motion. Splitting logs like this can take more effort, though the chance of injury is substantially reduced. In addition, if you have a lot of wood to split during a heavy downpour, this method can be successfully used under a tarpaulin.
The images used above are screenshots taken from MCQ Bushcraft & Wilderness Life's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on any image will take you to the original video.
Placing the axe head on a piece of wood and simultaneously whacking it against a hard surface, like a chopping block, will split it without having to swing the axe. Repeatedly whacking the axe and log into the chopping block will cause the axe head to embed itself into the log and successfully split it.
Placing the axe head on a piece of wood and simultaneously whacking it against a hard surface, like a chopping block, will split it without having to swing the axe. Repeatedly whacking the axe and log into the chopping block will cause the axe head to embed itself into the log and successfully split it.
The images used above are screenshots taken from MCQ Bushcraft & Wilderness Life's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
Another alternative way of splitting wood without having to swing an axe is by batoning. Once a log is standing upright on a chopping block, placing the axe head on it and repeatedly striking the back of the axe head with another log will successfully split it.
If you have noticed, all of the logs in the examples I have presented above are clean-cut and easily stand upright. If the logs are roughly cut and do not stand upright, batoning can be used to split them. Simply use the axe head to pin and balance the roughly cut log on a chopping block and repeatedly strike the back of the axe head with another log. This should split the log.
Wood grain & Knots -
Another alternative way of splitting wood without having to swing an axe is by batoning. Once a log is standing upright on a chopping block, placing the axe head on it and repeatedly striking the back of the axe head with another log will successfully split it.
If you have noticed, all of the logs in the examples I have presented above are clean-cut and easily stand upright. If the logs are roughly cut and do not stand upright, batoning can be used to split them. Simply use the axe head to pin and balance the roughly cut log on a chopping block and repeatedly strike the back of the axe head with another log. This should split the log.
Wood grain & Knots -
Image 1 was taken from Pexels and is free to use. Image 2 was taken from Pixabay and is free for commercial use. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate image and uploader.
[1] Wood grain - Each tree will have a unique grain pattern, meaning some pieces of wood will be easier to process than others. The straighter the grain, the easier it will be to split a log.
[2] Knots - Knots can be detrimental to your cutting tools because they can prematurely dull or, worse, damage the cutting edge. Some pieces of wood will have few to no knots, while others will have many. It is wise to take caution when dealing with a badly knotted-up piece of wood. One solution is to make a slit in the top of a badly knotted-up log with your axe and then pound a wooden wedge into it to split it. If the wooden wedge breaks, you can make another one. If your axe breaks, depression.
Note that some woods will be hard and some soft. Hardwoods will be hard on your cutting tools and can dull them sooner than softwoods. In addition, it will be advantageous to use hardwoods for certain camp projects while softwoods for others. This is something you will learn through creating and experimenting.
[1] Wood grain - Each tree will have a unique grain pattern, meaning some pieces of wood will be easier to process than others. The straighter the grain, the easier it will be to split a log.
[2] Knots - Knots can be detrimental to your cutting tools because they can prematurely dull or, worse, damage the cutting edge. Some pieces of wood will have few to no knots, while others will have many. It is wise to take caution when dealing with a badly knotted-up piece of wood. One solution is to make a slit in the top of a badly knotted-up log with your axe and then pound a wooden wedge into it to split it. If the wooden wedge breaks, you can make another one. If your axe breaks, depression.
Note that some woods will be hard and some soft. Hardwoods will be hard on your cutting tools and can dull them sooner than softwoods. In addition, it will be advantageous to use hardwoods for certain camp projects while softwoods for others. This is something you will learn through creating and experimenting.
The images used above are screenshots taken from ADIRONDACK BUSHMASTER's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on any image will take you to the original video.
There will be times when your axe will be embedded in a log or a chopping block. It is not exactly stuck; it is just resting there. To free it, all you have to do is apply downward pressure near the bottom of the handle, as seen in the images above.
Note: Do not jerk the handle from left to right, as this can loosen the axe head.
How to fell a small tree -
There will be times when your axe will be embedded in a log or a chopping block. It is not exactly stuck; it is just resting there. To free it, all you have to do is apply downward pressure near the bottom of the handle, as seen in the images above.
Note: Do not jerk the handle from left to right, as this can loosen the axe head.
How to fell a small tree -
The images used above are screenshots taken from Original Outdoors's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on any image will take you to the original video.
To fell a small tree, you will need to make two cuts in it. The first cut will allow you to choose the direction in which the tree will fall. The second cut will make the tree fragile to the point where pushing it with your hand will cause it to fall. The first cut is a triangular-shaped cut and should be halfway deep, as seen in image 1. The second cut is made on the opposite side, is slightly higher than the first cut, and is less than halfway deep. After both cuts are successfully made, standing in front of the second cut, push the tree in the direction of the first cut and shout "timber." That's it. I recommend clicking on any image from above to watch this process take place on the Original Outdoors YouTube channel.
To fell a small tree, you will need to make two cuts in it. The first cut will allow you to choose the direction in which the tree will fall. The second cut will make the tree fragile to the point where pushing it with your hand will cause it to fall. The first cut is a triangular-shaped cut and should be halfway deep, as seen in image 1. The second cut is made on the opposite side, is slightly higher than the first cut, and is less than halfway deep. After both cuts are successfully made, standing in front of the second cut, push the tree in the direction of the first cut and shout "timber." That's it. I recommend clicking on any image from above to watch this process take place on the Original Outdoors YouTube channel.
The images used above are screenshots taken from FarmCraft101's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
Note: When making the first cut, there must be no overhang. With an overhang, it will be difficult to determine in which direction the tree will fall. The tree could break off and fall in a direction you least expect, which can potentially be very dangerous.
Axe damage & Solutions -
Note: When making the first cut, there must be no overhang. With an overhang, it will be difficult to determine in which direction the tree will fall. The tree could break off and fall in a direction you least expect, which can potentially be very dangerous.
Axe damage & Solutions -
Image 1 is a screenshot taken from TA Outdoor's YouTube video. It is used to illustrate a point I am making. Image 2 was taken from Pixabay and is free for commercial use. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate source.
When swinging an axe, you will not always be accurate. As a result, overstrike damage can occur, which is the area on the handle below the axe head, as seen in image 2.
When swinging an axe, you will not always be accurate. As a result, overstrike damage can occur, which is the area on the handle below the axe head, as seen in image 2.
The images above are screenshots taken from Buckin' Billy Ray Smith's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
Besides being careful and getting better at swinging, you could affix a collar guard to the handle. It is essentially a piece of leather wrapped around the upper part of the axe handle, held in place by a leather lace. A leather lace is just a string made from leather. Any cordage can be used for this. Equipping your axe with a collar guard will allow it to bear the brunt of the blow if you miss your swing, sparing the handle. You can either make your own or buy one.
Note: If you decide to purchase a collar guard, ensure that the circumference of the axe handle is compatible with it.
Besides being careful and getting better at swinging, you could affix a collar guard to the handle. It is essentially a piece of leather wrapped around the upper part of the axe handle, held in place by a leather lace. A leather lace is just a string made from leather. Any cordage can be used for this. Equipping your axe with a collar guard will allow it to bear the brunt of the blow if you miss your swing, sparing the handle. You can either make your own or buy one.
Note: If you decide to purchase a collar guard, ensure that the circumference of the axe handle is compatible with it.
The images above are screenshots taken from Buckin' Billy Ray Smith's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
Alternatively, you could paracord-wrap the part of the handle susceptible to damage, as seen in the images above. A paracord wrap will be cheaper than buying a handmade collar guard. Clicking on either image from above will take you to Mr. Billy Ray Smith's YouTube video, where he demonstrates how to wrap an axe handle with paracord.
Alternatively, you could paracord-wrap the part of the handle susceptible to damage, as seen in the images above. A paracord wrap will be cheaper than buying a handmade collar guard. Clicking on either image from above will take you to Mr. Billy Ray Smith's YouTube video, where he demonstrates how to wrap an axe handle with paracord.
The images above are screenshots taken from Buckin' Billy Ray Smith's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
An axe handle can also split in the field, and you need to know how to replace it.
An axe handle can also split in the field, and you need to know how to replace it.
The images above are screenshots taken from Wranglerstar's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
Before attempting to fix something, it is wise to understand the components that put it together. The three components that make up an axe are a handle, an axe head, and a wooden wedge. The axe head gives you the ability to cut. The handle allows you to wield the axe head, and the wedge securely keeps the head connected to the handle.
Before attempting to fix something, it is wise to understand the components that put it together. The three components that make up an axe are a handle, an axe head, and a wooden wedge. The axe head gives you the ability to cut. The handle allows you to wield the axe head, and the wedge securely keeps the head connected to the handle.
The images above are screenshots taken from Wranglerstar's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on any image will take you to the original video.
The axe head is slid onto the handle. The shoulder of the handle prevents the axe head from sliding off. Next, the wedge is pounded into the top of the handle, securely connecting the head. The handle needs to have a slit in the top for the wedge to fit, as seen in images 1 and 2. Lastly, the excess material at the top is then sawed off, as shown in image 4, and you are done.
If you have to replace an axe handle in the field, you will have to manually carve out a handle from wood and make a slit in it yourself. You will also have to carve out a wedge from wood manually.
Axe handle materials -
The axe head is slid onto the handle. The shoulder of the handle prevents the axe head from sliding off. Next, the wedge is pounded into the top of the handle, securely connecting the head. The handle needs to have a slit in the top for the wedge to fit, as seen in images 1 and 2. Lastly, the excess material at the top is then sawed off, as shown in image 4, and you are done.
If you have to replace an axe handle in the field, you will have to manually carve out a handle from wood and make a slit in it yourself. You will also have to carve out a wedge from wood manually.
Axe handle materials -
The images used above were taken from the Knives and Tools website. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
If you have noticed, I have only been talking about axes with wooden handles. In actuality, axe handles can be made from other materials too. Below, I will discuss the different handle materials. I will start with wood.
[1] Wood - Wood is porous and, as a result, will absorb moisture. As wood soaks up moisture, the wood fibers expand, and as the moisture dries out, the wood shrinks. This can result in a loose axe head, which can be dangerous. Wood is also weaker than plastic and metal, making it more susceptible to damage and failure. A wooden handle can, however, be replaced if it were to break, unlike a plastic or metal handle. It can be difficult to avoid wood because good-quality axe heads are typically mounted on wooden handles. This is mainly because a wooden handle will effectively absorb the shock generated by the axe head colliding with a tree. A wooden handle can also be modified. You could turn your axe into a hatchet by simply trimming off a portion of the handle if you so desired. If you later changed your mind, you could replace the short handle with a longer one.
All that said, wood being porous is still a major issue. One way around this problem is to regularly treat your axe's wooden handle with Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO) prior to bugging out. The consistent build-up of BLO on a wooden handle will significantly help to preserve it in the outdoors.
If you have noticed, I have only been talking about axes with wooden handles. In actuality, axe handles can be made from other materials too. Below, I will discuss the different handle materials. I will start with wood.
[1] Wood - Wood is porous and, as a result, will absorb moisture. As wood soaks up moisture, the wood fibers expand, and as the moisture dries out, the wood shrinks. This can result in a loose axe head, which can be dangerous. Wood is also weaker than plastic and metal, making it more susceptible to damage and failure. A wooden handle can, however, be replaced if it were to break, unlike a plastic or metal handle. It can be difficult to avoid wood because good-quality axe heads are typically mounted on wooden handles. This is mainly because a wooden handle will effectively absorb the shock generated by the axe head colliding with a tree. A wooden handle can also be modified. You could turn your axe into a hatchet by simply trimming off a portion of the handle if you so desired. If you later changed your mind, you could replace the short handle with a longer one.
All that said, wood being porous is still a major issue. One way around this problem is to regularly treat your axe's wooden handle with Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO) prior to bugging out. The consistent build-up of BLO on a wooden handle will significantly help to preserve it in the outdoors.
The image used above is a screenshot taken from The Good of the Land's YouTube video. It is used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on the image will take you to the original video.
Above is an image of an axe that was regularly maintained with BLO. The owner of the axe lost it in the woods for a year. When he found it, it was in decent condition, considering it had been exposed to the elements for a whole year. The owner claims that if it were not for the BLO, the handle would have most definitely needed to be replaced. Clicking on the image above will take you to the original video.
Note: BLO is known to spontaneously combust, which is why some humans avoid it. If you decide to buy and use it, applying it to your axe handle while outside and not inside your home would be wise. In addition, if you use a rag to apply it, run the rag under water before discarding it in the bin to avoid an unwanted fire. The majority of BLO sold today contains drying agents, which are bad for your skin. Wearing gloves when applying the oil is advised.
[2] Plastic - Plastic is strong, weather-resistant and requires little maintenance, making it carefree. A plastic-handled axe will be lighter than its wood and metal counterparts, though this is not necessarily a good thing, as heavier axes will be more effective at chopping and splitting. The lighter weight can, however, be advantageous to some, considering the axe will be carried in a pack. Fiskars is a company well-known for its plastic-handled axes. I have personally never seen an axe head on their axes come loose from regular use (rhyme intended). Though if it ever did, the handle would be close to impossible to replace because of the way it is connected to the axe head.
Above is an image of an axe that was regularly maintained with BLO. The owner of the axe lost it in the woods for a year. When he found it, it was in decent condition, considering it had been exposed to the elements for a whole year. The owner claims that if it were not for the BLO, the handle would have most definitely needed to be replaced. Clicking on the image above will take you to the original video.
Note: BLO is known to spontaneously combust, which is why some humans avoid it. If you decide to buy and use it, applying it to your axe handle while outside and not inside your home would be wise. In addition, if you use a rag to apply it, run the rag under water before discarding it in the bin to avoid an unwanted fire. The majority of BLO sold today contains drying agents, which are bad for your skin. Wearing gloves when applying the oil is advised.
[2] Plastic - Plastic is strong, weather-resistant and requires little maintenance, making it carefree. A plastic-handled axe will be lighter than its wood and metal counterparts, though this is not necessarily a good thing, as heavier axes will be more effective at chopping and splitting. The lighter weight can, however, be advantageous to some, considering the axe will be carried in a pack. Fiskars is a company well-known for its plastic-handled axes. I have personally never seen an axe head on their axes come loose from regular use (rhyme intended). Though if it ever did, the handle would be close to impossible to replace because of the way it is connected to the axe head.
The images above are screenshots taken from David Canterbury's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
Even if you are unable to replace the handle, the axe head on its own would still be very valuable. It can be used to cut, scrape and skin. You could also use it like a splitting wedge to split logs.
Even if you are unable to replace the handle, the axe head on its own would still be very valuable. It can be used to cut, scrape and skin. You could also use it like a splitting wedge to split logs.
The images above are screenshots taken from Lumberjack Outdoors's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
Though I said it would be close to impossible to replace the handle on a plastic-handled axe, I have seen a human on YouTube who managed to accomplish this unthinkable act. If interested, you can watch the original YouTube video by clicking on either of the images above.
[3] Metal - A full-metal construction makes this kind of axe extremely strong and virtually indestructible. It will, however, be much heavier than its wood and plastic counterparts. It will also produce a considerable amount of shock from impact, which is why a portion of the handle is usually covered with a material like rubber. The rubber will absorb the shock as best it can, though these axes are better used with gloves.
Note: Wood and plastic are both viable options, in my opinion. I recommend avoiding axes with metal handles.
Axe sheath materials -
Though I said it would be close to impossible to replace the handle on a plastic-handled axe, I have seen a human on YouTube who managed to accomplish this unthinkable act. If interested, you can watch the original YouTube video by clicking on either of the images above.
[3] Metal - A full-metal construction makes this kind of axe extremely strong and virtually indestructible. It will, however, be much heavier than its wood and plastic counterparts. It will also produce a considerable amount of shock from impact, which is why a portion of the handle is usually covered with a material like rubber. The rubber will absorb the shock as best it can, though these axes are better used with gloves.
Note: Wood and plastic are both viable options, in my opinion. I recommend avoiding axes with metal handles.
Axe sheath materials -
Image 1 was taken from the WoodSmith website. Images 2 & 3 were taken from the Knives and Tools website. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
You will not have much choice when it comes to an axe's sheath. In general, an axe sold with a wooden handle will come with a leather sheath. An axe sold with a plastic handle will come with a plastic sheath. And an axe sold with a metal handle will come with a nylon sheath. The sheath of your axe is not as important as the sheath of your belt knife, as you will not be carrying it on your person at all times like your belt knife sheath. As long as the sheath adequately covers the axe's sharp cutting edge, it is good enough.
You will not have much choice when it comes to an axe's sheath. In general, an axe sold with a wooden handle will come with a leather sheath. An axe sold with a plastic handle will come with a plastic sheath. And an axe sold with a metal handle will come with a nylon sheath. The sheath of your axe is not as important as the sheath of your belt knife, as you will not be carrying it on your person at all times like your belt knife sheath. As long as the sheath adequately covers the axe's sharp cutting edge, it is good enough.
Image 1 is a screenshot taken from David Canterbury's YouTube video. It is used to illustrate a point I am making. Image 2 was taken from Mukshypup's ebay listing. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate source.
Leather sheaths will usually retain an axe with a leather strap that has a snap on it. As you will already know from above, snaps can fail over time. In addition, the leather strap with the snap attached to it can stretch, meaning the sheath may not retain the axe adequately over time. I remember watching a David Canterbury YouTube video in which he discusses a leather sheath with a superior design. The sheath he discusses uses a leather lace instead of a snap. A leather lace is just cordage, and because it is, if it fails, it can be replaced with any cordage. I personally bought myself a custom leather sheath with the same design for my axe.
Note: You do have the option of getting a custom Kydex sheath made for your axe, though you will have to send your axe to the sheath maker for the moulding process.
Failed axe sheath -
Leather sheaths will usually retain an axe with a leather strap that has a snap on it. As you will already know from above, snaps can fail over time. In addition, the leather strap with the snap attached to it can stretch, meaning the sheath may not retain the axe adequately over time. I remember watching a David Canterbury YouTube video in which he discusses a leather sheath with a superior design. The sheath he discusses uses a leather lace instead of a snap. A leather lace is just cordage, and because it is, if it fails, it can be replaced with any cordage. I personally bought myself a custom leather sheath with the same design for my axe.
Note: You do have the option of getting a custom Kydex sheath made for your axe, though you will have to send your axe to the sheath maker for the moulding process.
Failed axe sheath -
The image used above is a screenshot taken from Survival Russia's YouTube video. It is used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on the image will take you to the original video.
Leather can be fragile, and even a plastic sheath can break. If your sheath fails in the field, you can improvise one out of wood, similar to the one in the image above. It does not need to be aesthetically spectacular as long as it is functional. I recommend watching Lar's YouTube video to get a rough idea of how you would make a wooden sheath in the field. Clicking on the image above will take you to his video.
Grain orientation -
Leather can be fragile, and even a plastic sheath can break. If your sheath fails in the field, you can improvise one out of wood, similar to the one in the image above. It does not need to be aesthetically spectacular as long as it is functional. I recommend watching Lar's YouTube video to get a rough idea of how you would make a wooden sheath in the field. Clicking on the image above will take you to his video.
Grain orientation -
Images 1 & 2 are screenshots taken from logcabinlooms's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Image 3 was taken by me from my smartphone. Clicking on image 1 or 2 will take you to the original video.
The grain of an axe's handle is somewhat of a controversial topic. Initially, when researching axes, I consistently heard and read that vertical grain is the strongest, diagonal grain is acceptable, and horizontal grain is made to fail. As I dug deeper into this subject, I came across some opposing viewpoints. A YouTuber who goes by the name "logcabinlooms" briefly discusses this subject and states his opinion. He expresses that vertical grain is rigid in the vertical direction, and horizontal grain is rigid in the horizontal direction. Depending on the task you want to accomplish, one grain orientation may prove to be better than the other. He added that horizontal grain, given that it is straight and runs all the way down the handle, will absorb shock better than vertical grain because it is able to flex.
The grain of an axe's handle is somewhat of a controversial topic. Initially, when researching axes, I consistently heard and read that vertical grain is the strongest, diagonal grain is acceptable, and horizontal grain is made to fail. As I dug deeper into this subject, I came across some opposing viewpoints. A YouTuber who goes by the name "logcabinlooms" briefly discusses this subject and states his opinion. He expresses that vertical grain is rigid in the vertical direction, and horizontal grain is rigid in the horizontal direction. Depending on the task you want to accomplish, one grain orientation may prove to be better than the other. He added that horizontal grain, given that it is straight and runs all the way down the handle, will absorb shock better than vertical grain because it is able to flex.
Image 1 is a screenshot taken from Ethan Harty's YouTube video. Image 2 is a screenshot taken from Buckin' Billy Ray Smith's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate video.
[1] Ethan Harty, a YouTuber, conducted an experiment to see which grain orientation is superior: vertical or horizontal. To his and my surprise, the handle with the horizontal grain seemed to be noticeably stronger than the handle with the vertical grain when pounding on something, just like "logcabinlooms" implied. This, however, goes against the grain, as vertical grain is commonly accepted to be far superior.
[2] Furthermore, Billy Ray Smith, who has been swinging an axe for over 40 years, has also weighed in on this grain orientation controversy. He said that if you understand the grain orientation of a handle and recognize where it is weak, swinging it accordingly will minimize the chance of failure. He also added that grain orientation is something to pay attention to but is not the end of the world if you receive an axe with "bad" grain.
When buying an axe online, you most likely will not be able to choose the grain on your axe handle. Some sellers may accept requests for a specific grain, but most do not. All you can do is test your axe upon arrival. If it survives, good. If not, contact the seller and see what can be done. Other than that, learning how to replace an axe handle will be beneficial, especially if the handle were to split in the field. All of these are just opinions. I recommend doing more of your own research so you can pick an appropriate axe for yourself.
Saw:
[1] Ethan Harty, a YouTuber, conducted an experiment to see which grain orientation is superior: vertical or horizontal. To his and my surprise, the handle with the horizontal grain seemed to be noticeably stronger than the handle with the vertical grain when pounding on something, just like "logcabinlooms" implied. This, however, goes against the grain, as vertical grain is commonly accepted to be far superior.
[2] Furthermore, Billy Ray Smith, who has been swinging an axe for over 40 years, has also weighed in on this grain orientation controversy. He said that if you understand the grain orientation of a handle and recognize where it is weak, swinging it accordingly will minimize the chance of failure. He also added that grain orientation is something to pay attention to but is not the end of the world if you receive an axe with "bad" grain.
When buying an axe online, you most likely will not be able to choose the grain on your axe handle. Some sellers may accept requests for a specific grain, but most do not. All you can do is test your axe upon arrival. If it survives, good. If not, contact the seller and see what can be done. Other than that, learning how to replace an axe handle will be beneficial, especially if the handle were to split in the field. All of these are just opinions. I recommend doing more of your own research so you can pick an appropriate axe for yourself.
Saw:
Images 1 & 2 are taken from the Knives and Tools website. Image 3 is taken from the BAHCO website. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate image and webpage.
The Bible says it is not good for man to be alone. Well, what about your axe? Accompanying a saw alongside your axe will allow you to process wood more efficiently. A saw is not a standalone type of tool like an axe, as an axe is able to do much more needed work. An axe and a saw together, however, can process wood effectively. The three main types of saws to choose from are pistol-grip saws, folding saws and bow saws. Before I discuss these saws further, I will go over some of the ways a saw and axe can be used together.
The Bible says it is not good for man to be alone. Well, what about your axe? Accompanying a saw alongside your axe will allow you to process wood more efficiently. A saw is not a standalone type of tool like an axe, as an axe is able to do much more needed work. An axe and a saw together, however, can process wood effectively. The three main types of saws to choose from are pistol-grip saws, folding saws and bow saws. Before I discuss these saws further, I will go over some of the ways a saw and axe can be used together.
The images above are screenshots taken from AlaskanFrontier1's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
Either an axe or a saw can be used to fell a tree. Once the tree is down, you can use a saw to process it into logs. These cleanly cut logs will easily stand upright on a chopping block, allowing you to safely split them with an axe. You could technically use an axe to process a tree into logs. However, the logs will not be cleanly cut and may not stand upright. In addition, processing a tree with an axe will cause you to lose a ton of wood in the form of wood chips, unlike a saw. This makes a saw an efficient harvester of wood.
Note: You will still lose some wood in the form of sawdust with a saw, though you will lose a lot more with an axe in the form of wood chips.
Either an axe or a saw can be used to fell a tree. Once the tree is down, you can use a saw to process it into logs. These cleanly cut logs will easily stand upright on a chopping block, allowing you to safely split them with an axe. You could technically use an axe to process a tree into logs. However, the logs will not be cleanly cut and may not stand upright. In addition, processing a tree with an axe will cause you to lose a ton of wood in the form of wood chips, unlike a saw. This makes a saw an efficient harvester of wood.
Note: You will still lose some wood in the form of sawdust with a saw, though you will lose a lot more with an axe in the form of wood chips.
Image 1 is a screenshot taken from Original Outdoors's YouTube video. Images 2 & 3 are screenshots taken from Wranglerstar's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate sources.
When making the first cut when attempting to fell a tree, using a saw to make a stop-cut like in image 2 will make life much easier. After the stop-cut is made, an axe can be used to chop to the point where you finished sawing, as seen in image 3. Remember not to leave an overhang.
Note: Making these cuts are unnecessary when dealing with smaller trees, as they can be sawed or hacked down easily.
When making the first cut when attempting to fell a tree, using a saw to make a stop-cut like in image 2 will make life much easier. After the stop-cut is made, an axe can be used to chop to the point where you finished sawing, as seen in image 3. Remember not to leave an overhang.
Note: Making these cuts are unnecessary when dealing with smaller trees, as they can be sawed or hacked down easily.
The images above are screenshots taken from Wranglerstar's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
Some trees have a tough outer layer, which can be hard on saw teeth. Using an axe to shave this hard layer off and then taking a saw to the tree will prevent the saw from becoming prematurely dull. An axe can be easily resharpened, whereas a saw can be extremely difficult, or sometimes impossible, to resharpen.
Above are just a few ways these tools can be used together. I will now discuss saws in more depth so that you can understand them better.
Saw teeth -
Some trees have a tough outer layer, which can be hard on saw teeth. Using an axe to shave this hard layer off and then taking a saw to the tree will prevent the saw from becoming prematurely dull. An axe can be easily resharpened, whereas a saw can be extremely difficult, or sometimes impossible, to resharpen.
Above are just a few ways these tools can be used together. I will now discuss saws in more depth so that you can understand them better.
Saw teeth -
Image 1 was taken from the Knives and Tools website. Images 2 & 3 were taken from the Amazon website. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
Teeth Per Inch (TPI) is something you will have to decide when selecting a saw. There are three grades of saw teeth: coarse, medium and fine. The amount of TPI on a blade will determine in which category the saw will fall. Depending on the type of wood you want to process and the task you want to accomplish, one saw may prove to be superior to the others.
[1] Coarse - A saw blade with less than 7 TPI will generally fall into the coarse category. Coarse saws have larger teeth with large gaps between each tooth. This allows the saw to saw out more wood with each stroke, resulting in a faster cut. This type of saw is designed for softwoods, which tend to be resinous. The large teeth with wider gaps prevent the saw from becoming completely clogged by the moisture found within softwoods. If you used a saw with fine teeth to process softwood, it would get clogged up very quickly and prevent the saw from cutting.
[3] Fine - A saw blade with more than 10 TPI will typically fall into the fine category. More teeth on a saw may sound like a superior saw. However, the teeth on a fine saw will be smaller and have small gaps between each tooth. This means it will tear out less material with each stroke, resulting in a slower cut. Though slow, a fine saw will make cleaner cuts, which can be advantageous when crafting in the field. This type of saw is designed for hardwoods, as it is better suited for denser materials.
[2] Medium - A saw blade with 7–10 TPI will generally fall into the medium category. This type of saw is a general-purpose saw. It will make smoother cuts than a coarse saw but not a fine saw. It will also process wood faster than a fine saw but not a coarse saw. It is right there in the middle, a bit of a do-it-all.
Cut stroke -
Teeth Per Inch (TPI) is something you will have to decide when selecting a saw. There are three grades of saw teeth: coarse, medium and fine. The amount of TPI on a blade will determine in which category the saw will fall. Depending on the type of wood you want to process and the task you want to accomplish, one saw may prove to be superior to the others.
[1] Coarse - A saw blade with less than 7 TPI will generally fall into the coarse category. Coarse saws have larger teeth with large gaps between each tooth. This allows the saw to saw out more wood with each stroke, resulting in a faster cut. This type of saw is designed for softwoods, which tend to be resinous. The large teeth with wider gaps prevent the saw from becoming completely clogged by the moisture found within softwoods. If you used a saw with fine teeth to process softwood, it would get clogged up very quickly and prevent the saw from cutting.
[3] Fine - A saw blade with more than 10 TPI will typically fall into the fine category. More teeth on a saw may sound like a superior saw. However, the teeth on a fine saw will be smaller and have small gaps between each tooth. This means it will tear out less material with each stroke, resulting in a slower cut. Though slow, a fine saw will make cleaner cuts, which can be advantageous when crafting in the field. This type of saw is designed for hardwoods, as it is better suited for denser materials.
[2] Medium - A saw blade with 7–10 TPI will generally fall into the medium category. This type of saw is a general-purpose saw. It will make smoother cuts than a coarse saw but not a fine saw. It will also process wood faster than a fine saw but not a coarse saw. It is right there in the middle, a bit of a do-it-all.
Cut stroke -
The images above are screenshots taken from WoodWorkers Guild Of America's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
Some saws cut on the pull stroke, and some on the push. Saws that cut on the pull stroke tend to have their teeth facing toward the handle, whereas saws that cut on the push stroke will have their teeth facing away from the handle. This can be seen in the images above.
Some saws cut on the pull stroke, and some on the push. Saws that cut on the pull stroke tend to have their teeth facing toward the handle, whereas saws that cut on the push stroke will have their teeth facing away from the handle. This can be seen in the images above.
The image used above was taken from the BAHCO website. Clicking on the image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
There are also some saws that cut on both strokes, like the "Bahco Laplander" in the image above. Theoretically, a saw that cuts on both strokes will saw through wood faster than a saw that cuts on a single stroke. However, TPI, the length and thickness of the blade, the amount of downward pressure applied when sawing, and the speed at which you saw are factors that will affect this theory.
Note: I recommend avoiding saws that cut on the push stroke alone, as they are likely to bind up when processing wood, especially in the hands of a novice. On the other hand, a saw that cuts on both strokes or the pull stroke alone will be better options, in my opinion.
Blade length -
There are also some saws that cut on both strokes, like the "Bahco Laplander" in the image above. Theoretically, a saw that cuts on both strokes will saw through wood faster than a saw that cuts on a single stroke. However, TPI, the length and thickness of the blade, the amount of downward pressure applied when sawing, and the speed at which you saw are factors that will affect this theory.
Note: I recommend avoiding saws that cut on the push stroke alone, as they are likely to bind up when processing wood, especially in the hands of a novice. On the other hand, a saw that cuts on both strokes or the pull stroke alone will be better options, in my opinion.
Blade length -
The images used above were taken from Pixabay and are free for commercial use. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate image & uploader.
Longer saw blades are able to process bigger trees, while shorter saw blades are limited to smaller ones. A long saw blade will also cut faster as fewer strokes are needed to complete the cut. It is difficult to put a number on the ideal blade length for a saw. Mors Kochanski, a prominent bushcraft and wilderness survival instructor, defines a survival saw as one that is capable of taking down a "hug-size" tree. Considering that I am discussing a saw that will go into a pack, I recommend the biggest saw you are willing to carry in a pack.
Thickness -
Longer saw blades are able to process bigger trees, while shorter saw blades are limited to smaller ones. A long saw blade will also cut faster as fewer strokes are needed to complete the cut. It is difficult to put a number on the ideal blade length for a saw. Mors Kochanski, a prominent bushcraft and wilderness survival instructor, defines a survival saw as one that is capable of taking down a "hug-size" tree. Considering that I am discussing a saw that will go into a pack, I recommend the biggest saw you are willing to carry in a pack.
Thickness -
The image above is a screenshot taken from Canadian Prepper's YouTube video. It is used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on the image will take you to the original video.
A thicker saw blade will create more friction when processing wood, slowing the saw down. A thinner saw blade, on the other hand, will produce less friction, though it is more likely to bind up as thinner blades have a tendency to flex. Thicker blades do not flex as much as thinner blades and will push through and complete the cut.
Blade profile -
A thicker saw blade will create more friction when processing wood, slowing the saw down. A thinner saw blade, on the other hand, will produce less friction, though it is more likely to bind up as thinner blades have a tendency to flex. Thicker blades do not flex as much as thinner blades and will push through and complete the cut.
Blade profile -
The images above were taken from the Knives and Tools website. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
Saw blades have two main profiles: straight and curved. Applying downward pressure when sawing helps to process wood faster. Unfortunately, you will not have this advantage when attempting to saw a branch above head height. A curved saw blade will make better contact than a straight saw blade when processing branches from awkward angles.
Saw blades have two main profiles: straight and curved. Applying downward pressure when sawing helps to process wood faster. Unfortunately, you will not have this advantage when attempting to saw a branch above head height. A curved saw blade will make better contact than a straight saw blade when processing branches from awkward angles.
The images above were made by me in Microsoft Paint 3D.
In addition, a curved blade is supposed to process wood faster than a straight blade because it makes better contact with the wood with every stroke. In defence of the straight saw blade, it will make straighter cuts, which can be beneficial when crafting in the field.
Now that you have a brief understanding of saws, I will discuss the three types I mentioned earlier. I will start with folding saws.
Three types of saws -
1) Folding saws -
In addition, a curved blade is supposed to process wood faster than a straight blade because it makes better contact with the wood with every stroke. In defence of the straight saw blade, it will make straighter cuts, which can be beneficial when crafting in the field.
Now that you have a brief understanding of saws, I will discuss the three types I mentioned earlier. I will start with folding saws.
Three types of saws -
1) Folding saws -
The image above was taken from the Knives and Tools website. Clicking on the image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
Folding saws typically have short blades that fold, making them packable and lightweight. The joint where the saw folds can be a potential weak point. If excessive pressure is applied during sawing, there is a risk of the blade snapping, which usually happens when the user applies an enormous amount of pressure on the push stroke. This can be avoided by decreasing pressure on the push stroke and increasing it again on the pull stroke. For this very reason, I recommend a folding saw that cuts on the pull stroke alone. Because folding saws have a joint as a weak point (rhyme intended), the blades on them are intentionally made slightly thicker. Doing this makes the blade stronger and reduces flexing, preventing the blade from binding easily. As you will know from above, a thicker blade will create more friction and can slow the saw down. To reduce friction, manufacturers often make the bottom part of the blade, the teeth, wider than the spine. By tapering the blade in this manner, only a small portion of the saw blade will make contact with the wood when sawing, reducing the amount of friction generated. This approach is not only limited to folding saws and is used on other saws too.
Folding saws typically have short blades that fold, making them packable and lightweight. The joint where the saw folds can be a potential weak point. If excessive pressure is applied during sawing, there is a risk of the blade snapping, which usually happens when the user applies an enormous amount of pressure on the push stroke. This can be avoided by decreasing pressure on the push stroke and increasing it again on the pull stroke. For this very reason, I recommend a folding saw that cuts on the pull stroke alone. Because folding saws have a joint as a weak point (rhyme intended), the blades on them are intentionally made slightly thicker. Doing this makes the blade stronger and reduces flexing, preventing the blade from binding easily. As you will know from above, a thicker blade will create more friction and can slow the saw down. To reduce friction, manufacturers often make the bottom part of the blade, the teeth, wider than the spine. By tapering the blade in this manner, only a small portion of the saw blade will make contact with the wood when sawing, reducing the amount of friction generated. This approach is not only limited to folding saws and is used on other saws too.
The image above was taken by me from my smartphone.
Folding saws have a slot in their handle for the blade to conveniently fold into. This will protect your pack and the items inside it from being damaged by the saw's sharp teeth.
Folding saws have a slot in their handle for the blade to conveniently fold into. This will protect your pack and the items inside it from being damaged by the saw's sharp teeth.
The images above were taken by me from my smartphone.
Some saws, like the "Bacho Laplander," lock once the blade is tucked into the handle. Others, like the Silky in the images above, do not. This means there is a chance the saw blade may open up on its own while in the pack and potentially cause damage. A simple solution is to make a shock cord loop and slide it on the saw when carrying it in a pack, as seen in image 2. The shock cord loop will be easy to slide on and off. If you do not have shock cord, regular cordage will suffice for this task.
Alternative uses -
Some saws, like the "Bacho Laplander," lock once the blade is tucked into the handle. Others, like the Silky in the images above, do not. This means there is a chance the saw blade may open up on its own while in the pack and potentially cause damage. A simple solution is to make a shock cord loop and slide it on the saw when carrying it in a pack, as seen in image 2. The shock cord loop will be easy to slide on and off. If you do not have shock cord, regular cordage will suffice for this task.
Alternative uses -
Images 1 & 2 are screenshots taken from Black Hat Bushcraft's YouTube video. Images 3 & 4 are screenshots taken from NW Primate's YouTube Video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on each set of images will take you to the original video.
Pretty much all saws come with a 90-degree spine. The way a folding saw is designed, it is comfortable to grip and easy to utilize the 90-degree spine. The sharp teeth remain inside the handle while a decent portion of the spine is exposed. This will allow the saw to scrape materials like wood and strike a ferrocerium rod, as seen in images 1 and 2.
[3, 4] Sparks are produced when a hard rock is struck against a piece of high-carbon steel, which can be used for fire lighting. Saw blades made from carbon steel, like on Silky saws, can be used as steel strikers for fire lighting. This is further discussed in the [II] COMBUSTION chapter. Though high-carbon steel is ideal for this task, I have seen NW Primate, a YouTuber, use the "Bacho Laplander," which has a stainless steel blade, to produce sparks. The sparks were, however, of lower quality. Click here to watch that video.
Maintenance -
Pretty much all saws come with a 90-degree spine. The way a folding saw is designed, it is comfortable to grip and easy to utilize the 90-degree spine. The sharp teeth remain inside the handle while a decent portion of the spine is exposed. This will allow the saw to scrape materials like wood and strike a ferrocerium rod, as seen in images 1 and 2.
[3, 4] Sparks are produced when a hard rock is struck against a piece of high-carbon steel, which can be used for fire lighting. Saw blades made from carbon steel, like on Silky saws, can be used as steel strikers for fire lighting. This is further discussed in the [II] COMBUSTION chapter. Though high-carbon steel is ideal for this task, I have seen NW Primate, a YouTuber, use the "Bacho Laplander," which has a stainless steel blade, to produce sparks. The sparks were, however, of lower quality. Click here to watch that video.
Maintenance -
The images used above are screenshots taken from Tamarack Outdoors's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
When processing wood with a folding saw, wood particles or sawdust start flying around and tend to enter the joint area, affecting the saw blade's ability to open and close. Unscrewing and cleaning the joint will be necessary. The joint must also be lubricated to ensure the blade opens and closes fluidly. Lubricants are discussed in the [VII] MAINTENANCE chapter.
Handle materials -
The handle of a folding saw is usually made from plastic or rubber, and sometimes a combination of the two is used. Both rubber and plastic are durable and weather-resistant, making them viable materials for a long-term bug-out situation.
2) Pistol-grip saws -
When processing wood with a folding saw, wood particles or sawdust start flying around and tend to enter the joint area, affecting the saw blade's ability to open and close. Unscrewing and cleaning the joint will be necessary. The joint must also be lubricated to ensure the blade opens and closes fluidly. Lubricants are discussed in the [VII] MAINTENANCE chapter.
Handle materials -
The handle of a folding saw is usually made from plastic or rubber, and sometimes a combination of the two is used. Both rubber and plastic are durable and weather-resistant, making them viable materials for a long-term bug-out situation.
2) Pistol-grip saws -
The image above was taken from the Knives and Tools website. Clicking on the image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
Pistol-grip saws are usually bigger and heavier, making them less packable when compared to folding saws. There are shorter pistol-grip saws available, though a good-quality folding saw can do everything a small pistol-grip saw can do while being lightweight and compact. This is why it makes sense to get a slightly longer pistol-grip saw if you were to choose one. Longer saw blades are able to process bigger trees and process them faster, as fewer strokes are required to complete the cut. The main advantage of choosing a pistol-grip saw is that it has no moving parts, unlike a folding saw. This makes a pistol-grip saw more durable and low-maintenance.
Saw blade tang -
Pistol-grip saws are usually bigger and heavier, making them less packable when compared to folding saws. There are shorter pistol-grip saws available, though a good-quality folding saw can do everything a small pistol-grip saw can do while being lightweight and compact. This is why it makes sense to get a slightly longer pistol-grip saw if you were to choose one. Longer saw blades are able to process bigger trees and process them faster, as fewer strokes are required to complete the cut. The main advantage of choosing a pistol-grip saw is that it has no moving parts, unlike a folding saw. This makes a pistol-grip saw more durable and low-maintenance.
Saw blade tang -
The image above is a screenshot taken from Canadian Prepper's YouTube video. It is used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on the image will take you to the original video.
Though pistol-grip saws have no moving parts and are strong, some will be stronger than others. This is because some pistol-grip saws are full-tang while most seem to be partial-tang. A partial-tang saw blade is more likely to snap and break if it binds up during sawing, which is why I recommend selecting a full-tang pistol-grip saw (if you can).
Broken saw blade fix -
Though pistol-grip saws have no moving parts and are strong, some will be stronger than others. This is because some pistol-grip saws are full-tang while most seem to be partial-tang. A partial-tang saw blade is more likely to snap and break if it binds up during sawing, which is why I recommend selecting a full-tang pistol-grip saw (if you can).
Broken saw blade fix -
The images above were made by me in Microsoft Paint 3D.
If your partial-tang saw snaps in the field, you can still try and salvage it. Coarse materials in the field, like rocks and slabs, can be used to grind a portion of the teeth from the saw blade. Doing so will create a handle and allow you to wield the blade. Unfortunately, this new handle will be overly thin and rough around the edges after the grinding. Whittling two wooden slabs and attaching them to the saw blade with the help of cordage will create a thicker, more comfortable handle.
If your partial-tang saw snaps in the field, you can still try and salvage it. Coarse materials in the field, like rocks and slabs, can be used to grind a portion of the teeth from the saw blade. Doing so will create a handle and allow you to wield the blade. Unfortunately, this new handle will be overly thin and rough around the edges after the grinding. Whittling two wooden slabs and attaching them to the saw blade with the help of cordage will create a thicker, more comfortable handle.
The image above is a screenshot taken from Canadian Prepper's YouTube video. It is used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on the image will take you to the original video.
Another advantage of a pistol-grip saw is that the handle will align with your hand's natural position, making processing wood a pleasant experience.
Alternative uses -
Another advantage of a pistol-grip saw is that the handle will align with your hand's natural position, making processing wood a pleasant experience.
Alternative uses -
The images used above are screenshots taken from Felix Immler's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
The spine of a pistol-grip saw can be used to scrape material, even though its size can make it a little awkward to do so. Instead of taking the saw to the material, taking the material to the saw and scraping it across the spine, like in the images above, will do the job. In the images above, Felix placed the saw with its teeth facing down and swiftly scraped a ferrocerium rod across the saw's spine to produce sparks. The same can be done with wood to make wood scrapings. This method is demonstrated using a multitool saw, though it will also work with a pistol-grip saw.
Pistol-grip saw sheath -
The spine of a pistol-grip saw can be used to scrape material, even though its size can make it a little awkward to do so. Instead of taking the saw to the material, taking the material to the saw and scraping it across the spine, like in the images above, will do the job. In the images above, Felix placed the saw with its teeth facing down and swiftly scraped a ferrocerium rod across the saw's spine to produce sparks. The same can be done with wood to make wood scrapings. This method is demonstrated using a multitool saw, though it will also work with a pistol-grip saw.
Pistol-grip saw sheath -
The images above are screenshots taken from Canadian Prepper's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
Pistol-grip saw blades do not conveniently fold into their handles like folding saw blades and instead come with a sheath or scabbard, as seen in the images above. A scabbard will cover the saw's sharp teeth but also increase the overall weight and profile. Pistol-grip saw sheaths are typically made from plastic, which is durable and weather-resistant. Some scabbards may even come with a belt loop so they can be carried vertically on your belt.
Note: Some pistol-grip saws are sold without a sheath or scabbard. I recommend avoiding such saws.
Handle materials -
Like folding saws, pistol-grip saw handles are made from plastic or rubber, both viable materials.
3) Bow saws -
Pistol-grip saw blades do not conveniently fold into their handles like folding saw blades and instead come with a sheath or scabbard, as seen in the images above. A scabbard will cover the saw's sharp teeth but also increase the overall weight and profile. Pistol-grip saw sheaths are typically made from plastic, which is durable and weather-resistant. Some scabbards may even come with a belt loop so they can be carried vertically on your belt.
Note: Some pistol-grip saws are sold without a sheath or scabbard. I recommend avoiding such saws.
Handle materials -
Like folding saws, pistol-grip saw handles are made from plastic or rubber, both viable materials.
3) Bow saws -
The images above were taken from the AGAWA website. Clicking on the image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
Bow saws come in many shapes and sizes. Some are big, and some are small. The blades on bow saws can get away with being thinner because each end of the blade is locked and tensioned by the bow frame. A thin saw blade tensioned on both sides is less likely to bind up, making it user-friendly and suitable for a novice. This also means you can get away with cutting on the push stroke when processing wood with a bow saw.
Different shapes -
Bow saws come in many shapes and sizes. Some are big, and some are small. The blades on bow saws can get away with being thinner because each end of the blade is locked and tensioned by the bow frame. A thin saw blade tensioned on both sides is less likely to bind up, making it user-friendly and suitable for a novice. This also means you can get away with cutting on the push stroke when processing wood with a bow saw.
Different shapes -
Images 1 & 2 were taken from the Knives and Tools website. Image 3 was taken from the BAHCO website. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
Depending on the distance between the saw blade's spine and the inner part of the bow frame, the bow saw will be limited to trees with a certain diameter. As a result, the height of the bow saw is a factor to consider. If a bow saw is unable to saw all the way through a tree, it means the tree you are trying to process is too big for the saw. If a tree touches the inner part of the bow frame and prevents you from completing the cut, removing the saw from the kerf, which is the cut you made in the tree, and sawing from the opposite side to meet that cut will successfully process the tree.
Note: A triangular-shaped bow saw, as seen in image 2, will limit you more than the others, which is why I recommend avoiding it.
Bow saw disadvantages -
Depending on the distance between the saw blade's spine and the inner part of the bow frame, the bow saw will be limited to trees with a certain diameter. As a result, the height of the bow saw is a factor to consider. If a bow saw is unable to saw all the way through a tree, it means the tree you are trying to process is too big for the saw. If a tree touches the inner part of the bow frame and prevents you from completing the cut, removing the saw from the kerf, which is the cut you made in the tree, and sawing from the opposite side to meet that cut will successfully process the tree.
Note: A triangular-shaped bow saw, as seen in image 2, will limit you more than the others, which is why I recommend avoiding it.
Bow saw disadvantages -
Image 1 is a screenshot taken from RobEvans Woodsman's YouTube video. Image 2 is a screenshot taken from Survival Lilly's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on each image will take you to the original video.
The frame of a bow saw will also interfere when attempting to saw branches in the midst of thick brush, as seen in image 1. In addition, sawing from awkward angles may be impossible, as the big frame may not even fit in such areas. In image 1, Rob uses a pistol-grip saw. In image 2, Lilly uses a folding saw. This is an advantage that pistol-grip and folding saws have over bow saws.
Two types of bow saws -
The frame of a bow saw will also interfere when attempting to saw branches in the midst of thick brush, as seen in image 1. In addition, sawing from awkward angles may be impossible, as the big frame may not even fit in such areas. In image 1, Rob uses a pistol-grip saw. In image 2, Lilly uses a folding saw. This is an advantage that pistol-grip and folding saws have over bow saws.
Two types of bow saws -
Image 1 was taken from the AGAWA website. Image 2 was taken from the BAHCO website. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
There are two types of bow saws: foldable and non-foldable. Foldable saws, as the name implies, can collapse to a small size, making them very portable. Non-foldable saws, however, do not collapse and will take up a lot of space in your pack. In addition, the saw blades on foldable saws will conveniently fold into their frames, whereas those on non-foldable saws do not. This is why I recommend avoiding non-foldable bow saws and sticking to foldable ones.
There are two types of bow saws: foldable and non-foldable. Foldable saws, as the name implies, can collapse to a small size, making them very portable. Non-foldable saws, however, do not collapse and will take up a lot of space in your pack. In addition, the saw blades on foldable saws will conveniently fold into their frames, whereas those on non-foldable saws do not. This is why I recommend avoiding non-foldable bow saws and sticking to foldable ones.
The images above are screenshots taken from TheOutdoorGearReview's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on any image will take you to the original video.
As you can see from the images above, a foldable bow saw collapses small and is ideal for carrying in a pack. A saw of this kind has multiple joints where each frame piece moves into place, allowing you to easily and quickly assemble or disassemble it. These moving parts can be a potential weak point.
Note: A folding saw only has one moving part, whereas a foldable bow saw will have multiple.
As you can see from the images above, a foldable bow saw collapses small and is ideal for carrying in a pack. A saw of this kind has multiple joints where each frame piece moves into place, allowing you to easily and quickly assemble or disassemble it. These moving parts can be a potential weak point.
Note: A folding saw only has one moving part, whereas a foldable bow saw will have multiple.
The image above is a screenshot taken from TheOutdoorGearReview's YouTube video. It is used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on the image will take you to the original video.
As I have already mentioned and as you can see in the image above, the saw blade on a foldable bow saw will conveniently fold into its frame, preventing any damage from occurring when carried in a pack. It does not need a sheath, though you could slide some sort of cover over it to prevent the frame from being scratched.
Alternative uses -
As I have already mentioned and as you can see in the image above, the saw blade on a foldable bow saw will conveniently fold into its frame, preventing any damage from occurring when carried in a pack. It does not need a sheath, though you could slide some sort of cover over it to prevent the frame from being scratched.
Alternative uses -
The images above were taken by me from my smartphone.
I do not personally own a bow saw. I do, however, have a hacksaw with a similar build. The spine of my hacksaw blade was able to scrape material from a ferrocerium rod and produce sparks, though I was unable to capture the sparks in the image above. From my brief testing, this method may work on an actual bow saw. Scraping wood or a ferrocerium rod across a bow saw blade's spine should remove material.
Maintenance -
I do not personally own a bow saw. I do, however, have a hacksaw with a similar build. The spine of my hacksaw blade was able to scrape material from a ferrocerium rod and produce sparks, though I was unable to capture the sparks in the image above. From my brief testing, this method may work on an actual bow saw. Scraping wood or a ferrocerium rod across a bow saw blade's spine should remove material.
Maintenance -
The image above is a screenshot taken from the AGAWA website. Clicking on the image above will take you to the original webpage.
Generally, any apparatus with moving parts must be regularly lubricated to operate smoothly. In addition, colder conditions can cause your gear with moving parts to jam up. This can become a major issue for foldable bow saws, as they have multiple moving parts. When it comes to these "AGAWA Boreal" saws I have showcased in my work, they seem to hold up just fine in cold weather, as you can see from the Q&A image above. Clicking on the image above will take you to the full Q&A on the official AGAWA website.
Bow frame materials -
Generally, any apparatus with moving parts must be regularly lubricated to operate smoothly. In addition, colder conditions can cause your gear with moving parts to jam up. This can become a major issue for foldable bow saws, as they have multiple moving parts. When it comes to these "AGAWA Boreal" saws I have showcased in my work, they seem to hold up just fine in cold weather, as you can see from the Q&A image above. Clicking on the image above will take you to the full Q&A on the official AGAWA website.
Bow frame materials -
Image 1 was taken from the AGAWA website. Image 2 was taken from the BEAR ESSENTIALS OUTDOORS's website. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
The bow frames on bow saws are usually made from metal or wood. Aluminum is the metal often used, as it is durable, lightweight and corrosion-resistant. For wooden bow frames, some sort of hardwood is used for maximum durability.
Wooden frame -
The bow frames on bow saws are usually made from metal or wood. Aluminum is the metal often used, as it is durable, lightweight and corrosion-resistant. For wooden bow frames, some sort of hardwood is used for maximum durability.
Wooden frame -
The images above are screenshots taken from DJ Tudino's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on any image will take you to the original video.
A wooden frame bow saw, like a metal frame bow saw, collapses to a small size and can accommodate the saw blade within its frame. The main difference between a metal frame and a wooden frame bow saw is how the saw blade is tensioned. On a metal frame, the saw blade is automatically tensioned when the saw is assembled. The saw blade on a wooden frame, on the other hand, will need to be manually tensioned by fiddling with a wooden flap, like the one highlighted in image 4. This means assembling a wooden frame bow saw will take noticeably longer. A wooden frame will be lighter in weight, though it will also be more fragile when compared to a metal frame. If not regularly maintained with a preservative, the wood can begin to rot, crack or shrink.
Why would someone even bother with wood, then?
A wooden frame bow saw, like a metal frame bow saw, collapses to a small size and can accommodate the saw blade within its frame. The main difference between a metal frame and a wooden frame bow saw is how the saw blade is tensioned. On a metal frame, the saw blade is automatically tensioned when the saw is assembled. The saw blade on a wooden frame, on the other hand, will need to be manually tensioned by fiddling with a wooden flap, like the one highlighted in image 4. This means assembling a wooden frame bow saw will take noticeably longer. A wooden frame will be lighter in weight, though it will also be more fragile when compared to a metal frame. If not regularly maintained with a preservative, the wood can begin to rot, crack or shrink.
Why would someone even bother with wood, then?
The images above are screenshots taken from Karamat Wilderness ways's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
Simple. A wooden frame could be easily replaced in the field if it failed, as each part of the frame can be manually whittled out of wood (except for the cordage). Cordage is needed in a bow saw build to add tension to the frame. The cordage from your failed bow saw can be reused on the new one if cordage is scarce. Some humans only carry a long saw blade in their kits, like the one in image 1. Such a saw blade is lightweight and flexible and can be coiled up and carried in a small round tin or even worn around your waist under your belt if you want. Of course, the frame must be manually created in the field by hand. When creating a bow frame, there are many ways to go about it, and some builds do not even require cordage. There are many videos on YouTube demonstrating this if you are interested.
Sharpening saw blades explained -
Simple. A wooden frame could be easily replaced in the field if it failed, as each part of the frame can be manually whittled out of wood (except for the cordage). Cordage is needed in a bow saw build to add tension to the frame. The cordage from your failed bow saw can be reused on the new one if cordage is scarce. Some humans only carry a long saw blade in their kits, like the one in image 1. Such a saw blade is lightweight and flexible and can be coiled up and carried in a small round tin or even worn around your waist under your belt if you want. Of course, the frame must be manually created in the field by hand. When creating a bow frame, there are many ways to go about it, and some builds do not even require cordage. There are many videos on YouTube demonstrating this if you are interested.
Sharpening saw blades explained -
The image above is a screenshot taken from Bruce's shop's YouTube video. It is used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on the image will take you to the original video.
Saw teeth will start to dull the more you use the saw. Some saw blades can be re-sharpened, while others cannot. Saw blades that cannot be re-sharpened are usually replaced with new replacement blades.
Note: Sharpening saw teeth requires skill that many do not possess.
Saw teeth will start to dull the more you use the saw. Some saw blades can be re-sharpened, while others cannot. Saw blades that cannot be re-sharpened are usually replaced with new replacement blades.
Note: Sharpening saw teeth requires skill that many do not possess.
Image 1 was taken from Pixabay and is free for commercial use. Image 2 was compiled using two images taken from the Knives and Tools website. Clicking on image 1 will take you to the original image and uploader. Click here for saw blade 1, and click here for saw blade 2.
Some saw blades used on bow saws can be re-sharpened, while the blades used on pistol-grip and folding saws are usually replaced with new ones once the old ones no longer cut. Replaceable blades tend to have extremely hard teeth, making them practically impossible to re-sharpen. Such blades can potentially last for years without having to be replaced, though this will depend on how much you use the saw and the hardness of the wood you usually buck. Spare blades can be carried in a pack if the saw's lifespan concerns you. Replacement blades are flat and very packable.
Saw brands -
Some saw blades used on bow saws can be re-sharpened, while the blades used on pistol-grip and folding saws are usually replaced with new ones once the old ones no longer cut. Replaceable blades tend to have extremely hard teeth, making them practically impossible to re-sharpen. Such blades can potentially last for years without having to be replaced, though this will depend on how much you use the saw and the hardness of the wood you usually buck. Spare blades can be carried in a pack if the saw's lifespan concerns you. Replacement blades are flat and very packable.
Saw brands -
The image above was compiled using brand logos I found on the saw manufacturer's websites. Clicking on each brand name will take you to their official website: Silky, AGAWA, BAHCO.
Above, I have listed some reputable companies that make and sell good-quality saws. I personally recommend the Silky brand. Below I will list some of the reasons why I recommend Silky:
- High-quality & Durable.
- Chrome plated blade (resists rust & resin. Helps with maintenance).
- Impulse hardened teeth (lasts three times longer than an non-hardened saw blade).
- 90-degree spine (able scrape materials like wood and ferrocerium rods).
- Rubber handle (offers excellent grip, especially in wet conditions).
- Saw blade can be used as a flint striker for fire lighting (Silky saw blades are made from SK-4 carbon steel).
- Cuts on the pull stroke (decreases the chance of binding).
Even though I recommend Silky saws, I encourage you to do more research so you can choose an appropriate saw for yourself.
Quick tips -
Above, I have listed some reputable companies that make and sell good-quality saws. I personally recommend the Silky brand. Below I will list some of the reasons why I recommend Silky:
- High-quality & Durable.
- Chrome plated blade (resists rust & resin. Helps with maintenance).
- Impulse hardened teeth (lasts three times longer than an non-hardened saw blade).
- 90-degree spine (able scrape materials like wood and ferrocerium rods).
- Rubber handle (offers excellent grip, especially in wet conditions).
- Saw blade can be used as a flint striker for fire lighting (Silky saw blades are made from SK-4 carbon steel).
- Cuts on the pull stroke (decreases the chance of binding).
Even though I recommend Silky saws, I encourage you to do more research so you can choose an appropriate saw for yourself.
Quick tips -
The images above are screenshots taken from AlaskanFrontier1's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
Try not to process logs on the ground, as debris and small rocks can hit the saw teeth and prematurely dull them, shortening the saw's life. Elevating the piece of wood from the ground when sawing is advised.
Try not to process logs on the ground, as debris and small rocks can hit the saw teeth and prematurely dull them, shortening the saw's life. Elevating the piece of wood from the ground when sawing is advised.
The images above are screenshots taken from RobEvans Woodsman's YouTube video. They are used illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
Axes are used alongside chopping blocks, and saws are used alongside saw horses. A saw horse is a structure that raises a plank of wood from the ground to be processed. In the images above, Rob has created a makeshift saw horse out of logs.
Axes are used alongside chopping blocks, and saws are used alongside saw horses. A saw horse is a structure that raises a plank of wood from the ground to be processed. In the images above, Rob has created a makeshift saw horse out of logs.
The images above are screenshots taken from David Canterbury's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
The structure does not need to be complex. A simple tripod, as seen in the images above, will do the trick.
Multitool:
The structure does not need to be complex. A simple tripod, as seen in the images above, will do the trick.
Multitool:
The images above were taken by me from my smartphone.
I personally believe a multitool is an excellent companion, though there are other options, like a single or multi-bladed pocket knife. The reason why I recommend a multitool over the other two options is because it is capable of doing much more work. As a result, this section will be dedicated solely to multitools.
Multitool brands -
I personally believe a multitool is an excellent companion, though there are other options, like a single or multi-bladed pocket knife. The reason why I recommend a multitool over the other two options is because it is capable of doing much more work. As a result, this section will be dedicated solely to multitools.
Multitool brands -
The image above was compiled using brand logos I found on the manufacturer's websites. Clicking on each brand name will take you to their official website: VICTORINOX, LEATHERMAN.
When it comes to multitools, I only recommend two brands: Victorinox and Leatherman. Both companies produce high-quality products, so it all comes down to personal preference.
A multitool dissection -
When it comes to multitools, I only recommend two brands: Victorinox and Leatherman. Both companies produce high-quality products, so it all comes down to personal preference.
A multitool dissection -
The image above was taken from the Swiss Store website. Clicking on the image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
I personally prefer Victorinox's Swiss Army Knife (SAK) because it can do everything I want while being compact and lightweight. Above, I have dissected my favourite multitool, the Huntsman. The combination of tools offered on this particular model is definitely valuable, especially for the outdoors.
Below, I will list some of the more common tools generally found on multitools and explain how they can be used in the field.
Common tools found on multitools -
1) Main cutting blade -
I personally prefer Victorinox's Swiss Army Knife (SAK) because it can do everything I want while being compact and lightweight. Above, I have dissected my favourite multitool, the Huntsman. The combination of tools offered on this particular model is definitely valuable, especially for the outdoors.
Below, I will list some of the more common tools generally found on multitools and explain how they can be used in the field.
Common tools found on multitools -
1) Main cutting blade -
The images above are screenshots taken from Felix Immler's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
A cutting blade is a standard tool offered on pretty much all multitools. It will allow you to whittle small wood projects and perform general cutting tasks.
Note: Using the cutting blade on your multitool whenever possible will preserve the cutting edge on your belt knife.
2) Smaller cutting blade -
A cutting blade is a standard tool offered on pretty much all multitools. It will allow you to whittle small wood projects and perform general cutting tasks.
Note: Using the cutting blade on your multitool whenever possible will preserve the cutting edge on your belt knife.
2) Smaller cutting blade -
The images above were taken by me from my smartphone.
Some multitools will offer a smaller pen blade. A smaller and thinner cutting blade can be used for precise carving, as it can fit into areas a big blade cannot. Above are examples of what a smaller cutting blade can achieve. Other than that, it can be used like a regular blade to cut anything you want.
3) Wood saw -
Some multitools will offer a smaller pen blade. A smaller and thinner cutting blade can be used for precise carving, as it can fit into areas a big blade cannot. Above are examples of what a smaller cutting blade can achieve. Other than that, it can be used like a regular blade to cut anything you want.
3) Wood saw -
The images above are screenshots taken from Felix Immler's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
A multitool wood saw will allow you to process smaller branches, preserving the teeth on your main saw and extending its life. A small saw will also be effective for creating notches in wood, which will preserve the edges of your cutting blades.
A multitool wood saw will allow you to process smaller branches, preserving the teeth on your main saw and extending its life. A small saw will also be effective for creating notches in wood, which will preserve the edges of your cutting blades.
The images above are screenshots taken from Felix Immler's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
As you already know from above, saws tend to come with a 90-degree spine, and multitool saws are no different. The saw's spine can be used to scrape materials like wood and strike a ferrocerium rod.
4) Reamer / Awl -
As you already know from above, saws tend to come with a 90-degree spine, and multitool saws are no different. The saw's spine can be used to scrape materials like wood and strike a ferrocerium rod.
4) Reamer / Awl -
The images above are screenshots taken from Felix Immler's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
A reamer can pierce and drill holes in materials like wood, plastic and leather. The ability to make holes when crafting items in the field can be absolutely crucial.
A reamer can pierce and drill holes in materials like wood, plastic and leather. The ability to make holes when crafting items in the field can be absolutely crucial.
The images above are screenshots taken from Felix Immler's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
A reamer will also have a sharp edge that can be used to scrape materials like wood or strike a ferrocerium rod.
A reamer will also have a sharp edge that can be used to scrape materials like wood or strike a ferrocerium rod.
The images above are screenshots taken from Phil Crockett's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
Reamers with an eye or a hole in them can be used for sewing materials like leather or canvas. To see how this is done, click on either of the images from above to be directed to the appropriate YouTube video.
5) Scissors -
Reamers with an eye or a hole in them can be used for sewing materials like leather or canvas. To see how this is done, click on either of the images from above to be directed to the appropriate YouTube video.
5) Scissors -
Images 1 & 2 were taken from Pexels and are free to use. Image 3 was taken by me from my smartphone. Clicking on images 1 & 2 will take you to the original image and uploader.
Scissors on multitools can be used for basic grooming needs in the field. They will allow you to cut your hair, trim your beard, and even cut your nails in a pinch. The [VII] MAINTENANCE chapter mentions nail clippers.
Note: You have no good reason to look like Chewbacca out in the field.
6) Can opener -
Scissors on multitools can be used for basic grooming needs in the field. They will allow you to cut your hair, trim your beard, and even cut your nails in a pinch. The [VII] MAINTENANCE chapter mentions nail clippers.
Note: You have no good reason to look like Chewbacca out in the field.
6) Can opener -
The images above are screenshots taken from Felix Immler's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
Bugging out is a last resort, so assuming you have a place to bug out to where you have provisions in place, if any of those provisions include canned goods, the can opener on your multitool will allow you to access the contents in the cans.
Note: Pop-top cans can be opened without a can opener.
7) Screwdriver -
Bugging out is a last resort, so assuming you have a place to bug out to where you have provisions in place, if any of those provisions include canned goods, the can opener on your multitool will allow you to access the contents in the cans.
Note: Pop-top cans can be opened without a can opener.
7) Screwdriver -
The images above were taken by me from my smartphone.
Almost every multitool comes with a screwdriver. You may think a screwdriver is useless, as screws are not commonly found in a woodland environment, and you would be correct to think that. However, you will have screws on your gear, like a Kydex sheath, pistol-grip saw handle, folding saw, etc. A screwdriver will allow you to tighten loose screws and even unscrew certain screws to take apart gear like a folding saw to clean and lubricate.
Four main types of screws -
Almost every multitool comes with a screwdriver. You may think a screwdriver is useless, as screws are not commonly found in a woodland environment, and you would be correct to think that. However, you will have screws on your gear, like a Kydex sheath, pistol-grip saw handle, folding saw, etc. A screwdriver will allow you to tighten loose screws and even unscrew certain screws to take apart gear like a folding saw to clean and lubricate.
Four main types of screws -
The images above were taken by me from my smartphone.
Above, I have listed the four main types of screws used on outdoor gear. The flat-head screwdriver is the most versatile of the four, as it can be used to unscrew both flat-head and Phillips screws. I have also managed to unscrew a hex screw with a flat-head screwdriver, though there was some visible damage on the hex screw from doing this. The versatility of a flat-head screwdriver is why it is usually offered on many multitools. Not all screws are the same size, which is why screwdrivers come in a wide range of sizes. This is precisely why some multitools offer two versions of the same screwdriver. For instance, the SAK Huntsman model offers both a big and small flat-head screwdriver.
Note: It is important to observe the type and size of screws used on your gear.
Special SAK features -
Above, I have listed the four main types of screws used on outdoor gear. The flat-head screwdriver is the most versatile of the four, as it can be used to unscrew both flat-head and Phillips screws. I have also managed to unscrew a hex screw with a flat-head screwdriver, though there was some visible damage on the hex screw from doing this. The versatility of a flat-head screwdriver is why it is usually offered on many multitools. Not all screws are the same size, which is why screwdrivers come in a wide range of sizes. This is precisely why some multitools offer two versions of the same screwdriver. For instance, the SAK Huntsman model offers both a big and small flat-head screwdriver.
Note: It is important to observe the type and size of screws used on your gear.
Special SAK features -
The images above were taken by me from my smartphone.
Many SAKs come with a tweezer and a toothpick, which conveniently slide into the scales. The tweezers can be used to remove thorns and splinters that may embed themselves in your flesh when working in the field.
Many SAKs come with a tweezer and a toothpick, which conveniently slide into the scales. The tweezers can be used to remove thorns and splinters that may embed themselves in your flesh when working in the field.
The images above were taken by me from my smartphone.
When it comes to the toothpick, I do not personally use it as a toothpick. Below, I will present three alternative ways you could use a toothpick.
[1] It can be used as an applicator to direct oil into the joints of a multitool. Directing it in with a toothpick will offer greater precision.
[2] Working outdoors will require you to get your hands dirty, literally. Dirt will begin to accumulate under your fingernails. A toothpick can be used to remove that dirt.
[3] As you carry a multitool in your pocket, bits of material can get caught at the joints. A toothpick can be used to remove it.
Two upgrade options -
When it comes to the toothpick, I do not personally use it as a toothpick. Below, I will present three alternative ways you could use a toothpick.
[1] It can be used as an applicator to direct oil into the joints of a multitool. Directing it in with a toothpick will offer greater precision.
[2] Working outdoors will require you to get your hands dirty, literally. Dirt will begin to accumulate under your fingernails. A toothpick can be used to remove that dirt.
[3] As you carry a multitool in your pocket, bits of material can get caught at the joints. A toothpick can be used to remove it.
Two upgrade options -
The images above were taken by me from my smartphone.
If your SAK has a corkscrew, you could separately purchase a mini screwdriver that will conveniently screw into it, as seen in image 1. This mini flat-head screwdriver will be suitable for smaller slotted screws, like the ones found on spectacles. From personal testing, it is not compatible with the screws on every pair of glasses. I have also found that embedding the mini screwdriver the opposite way into the corkscrew, like in image 2, gives me better leverage when attempting to tighten screws than holding the screwdriver between my thumb and index finger. If you apply a lot of pressure when tightening a screw using this method, the mini screwdriver tends to get stuck in the corkscrew. Repeatedly turning the mini screwdriver left and right will free it from the corkscrew.
Note: This method will only work when tightening screws. If you embedded the mini screwdriver in the corkscrew, like in image 2, and tried to unscrew a screw, the mini screwdriver would fall out of the corkscrew.
If your SAK has a corkscrew, you could separately purchase a mini screwdriver that will conveniently screw into it, as seen in image 1. This mini flat-head screwdriver will be suitable for smaller slotted screws, like the ones found on spectacles. From personal testing, it is not compatible with the screws on every pair of glasses. I have also found that embedding the mini screwdriver the opposite way into the corkscrew, like in image 2, gives me better leverage when attempting to tighten screws than holding the screwdriver between my thumb and index finger. If you apply a lot of pressure when tightening a screw using this method, the mini screwdriver tends to get stuck in the corkscrew. Repeatedly turning the mini screwdriver left and right will free it from the corkscrew.
Note: This method will only work when tightening screws. If you embedded the mini screwdriver in the corkscrew, like in image 2, and tried to unscrew a screw, the mini screwdriver would fall out of the corkscrew.
The images above were taken by me from my smartphone.
Some SAK models will have a slot in their scales for a straight pin to conveniently slide into. A straight pin can be used together with tweezers to remove a thorn or splinter from your flesh or for any other purpose for which a pin this size can be useful.
Note: The straight pin will need to be purchased separately.
Honorable mentions(3) -
Some SAK models will have a slot in their scales for a straight pin to conveniently slide into. A straight pin can be used together with tweezers to remove a thorn or splinter from your flesh or for any other purpose for which a pin this size can be useful.
Note: The straight pin will need to be purchased separately.
Honorable mentions(3) -
Image 1 was taken from the official VICTORINOX website. Images 2 & 3 were taken from the Tortoise gear website. Clicking on each image will take you to the original source.
If you do not like the mini flat-head screwdriver, other types of screwdrivers are available, as shown in image 1. If you do not want to carry a mini screwdriver at all, Tortoise Gear sells mini ferrocerium rods and mini fire starters that screw into a SAKs corkscrew, as shown in image 3. If you do not need the toothpick or tweezers that come with a SAK, they can be replaced with Tortoise Gear's longer ferrocerium rod, called the firefly, as shown in image 2.
Note: I am not presenting these upgrades because I want you to buy them. I have presented them so that you know the options you have available to you. I recommend doing more of your own research if any of these products interest you.
Leatherman vs Victorinox -
If you do not like the mini flat-head screwdriver, other types of screwdrivers are available, as shown in image 1. If you do not want to carry a mini screwdriver at all, Tortoise Gear sells mini ferrocerium rods and mini fire starters that screw into a SAKs corkscrew, as shown in image 3. If you do not need the toothpick or tweezers that come with a SAK, they can be replaced with Tortoise Gear's longer ferrocerium rod, called the firefly, as shown in image 2.
Note: I am not presenting these upgrades because I want you to buy them. I have presented them so that you know the options you have available to you. I recommend doing more of your own research if any of these products interest you.
Leatherman vs Victorinox -
Image 1 was taken from the LEATHERMAN website. Image 2 was taken from the VICTORINOX website. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
Putting aside my Victorinox bias, Leatherman multitools are just as good, if not better. Leatherman multitools are known for their heavy-duty needle-nose pliers. They are stronger than many SAKs due to their full-metal construction. Some Leatherman multitools will have their cutting blades made from superior steel, resulting in better edge retention and corrosion resistance. Unlike the SAKs, the cutting blades on many of the Leatherman are able to lock, making them safer to use. Despite these advantages, I still prefer the SAK, as SAKs are more affordable. A SAK will also be compact and lightweight, whereas a full-size Leatherman will be bigger and heavier. For instance, the Leatherman Wave multitool weighs 241 grams, whereas the Victorinox Huntsman weighs 97 grams. I can carry two Huntsman models with 47 grams to spare at that weight. I also do not find any need for needle-nose pliers, personally.
All that said, the plastic scales on SAKs can be fragile, which can be a major weak point.
SAK scale materials -
Putting aside my Victorinox bias, Leatherman multitools are just as good, if not better. Leatherman multitools are known for their heavy-duty needle-nose pliers. They are stronger than many SAKs due to their full-metal construction. Some Leatherman multitools will have their cutting blades made from superior steel, resulting in better edge retention and corrosion resistance. Unlike the SAKs, the cutting blades on many of the Leatherman are able to lock, making them safer to use. Despite these advantages, I still prefer the SAK, as SAKs are more affordable. A SAK will also be compact and lightweight, whereas a full-size Leatherman will be bigger and heavier. For instance, the Leatherman Wave multitool weighs 241 grams, whereas the Victorinox Huntsman weighs 97 grams. I can carry two Huntsman models with 47 grams to spare at that weight. I also do not find any need for needle-nose pliers, personally.
All that said, the plastic scales on SAKs can be fragile, which can be a major weak point.
SAK scale materials -
Images 1,2,3,4 & 5 were taken from the VICTORINOX website. Image 6 was created by me in Microsoft Paint 3D. Clicking on images 1,2,3,4 or 5 will take you to the appropriate image and webpage.
SAK scales can be made from the five different materials listed above. However, many SAKs are limited regarding the material of their scales. For instance, the Huntsman model is only sold with plastic or wooden scales. If the Huntsman were to slip out of my hand from a considerable height and hit the hard ground, the chance of the scales cracking is high.
Fragile scale fix -
SAK scales can be made from the five different materials listed above. However, many SAKs are limited regarding the material of their scales. For instance, the Huntsman model is only sold with plastic or wooden scales. If the Huntsman were to slip out of my hand from a considerable height and hit the hard ground, the chance of the scales cracking is high.
Fragile scale fix -
The images above were taken by me from my smartphone.
One precaution you can take is to tie a simple lanyard to the multitool, as seen in image 1. Sliding your hand through the lanyard when using the SAK, like in images 2 and 3, will keep the SAK from hitting the ground if it were to slip out of your hand. Instead of making contact with the ground, it would simply hang off your wrist, as seen in image 4.
Custom SAKs -
One precaution you can take is to tie a simple lanyard to the multitool, as seen in image 1. Sliding your hand through the lanyard when using the SAK, like in images 2 and 3, will keep the SAK from hitting the ground if it were to slip out of your hand. Instead of making contact with the ground, it would simply hang off your wrist, as seen in image 4.
Custom SAKs -
The images above were taken from the f2customs website. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
Alternatively, you can get a custom SAK handmade for a price, allowing you to choose the scale's material and also the tools. I have seen some humans who build and sell custom SAKs online. However, I really like "Fit to Survives" SAK builds. I found his YouTube channel a while back and was immediately impressed with the quality of his builds.
Clicking on image 1 from above will take you to his website.
Clicking here will take you to his YouTube channel.
Uncomfortable multitool fix -
Alternatively, you can get a custom SAK handmade for a price, allowing you to choose the scale's material and also the tools. I have seen some humans who build and sell custom SAKs online. However, I really like "Fit to Survives" SAK builds. I found his YouTube channel a while back and was immediately impressed with the quality of his builds.
Clicking on image 1 from above will take you to his website.
Clicking here will take you to his YouTube channel.
Uncomfortable multitool fix -
The images above were taken by me from my smartphone.
Multitools house multiple tools and can be uncomfortable to grip, especially when using the main cutting blade. A potential solution to this problem is to attach a snake-knot lanyard to the SAK. The snake-knot lanyard should match the length of the handle, though you could get away with making it slightly shorter. Using the lanyard to cover the tools that are not in use and grasping the handle and the lanyard together will be less harsh on your hands. This can be seen in images 3 and 4. To learn how to create a snake-knot lanyard, click here.
Note: This method can also be used on a knife handle that is too thin. The snake knot lanyard will add thickness to a thin handle, making it more comfortable to grip.
Maintenance -
Multitools house multiple tools and can be uncomfortable to grip, especially when using the main cutting blade. A potential solution to this problem is to attach a snake-knot lanyard to the SAK. The snake-knot lanyard should match the length of the handle, though you could get away with making it slightly shorter. Using the lanyard to cover the tools that are not in use and grasping the handle and the lanyard together will be less harsh on your hands. This can be seen in images 3 and 4. To learn how to create a snake-knot lanyard, click here.
Note: This method can also be used on a knife handle that is too thin. The snake knot lanyard will add thickness to a thin handle, making it more comfortable to grip.
Maintenance -
The images above are screenshots taken from DIY Prepper TV's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
A multitool will need to be lubricated every now and then so its tools open and close smoothly. Lubricants are discussed in the [VII] MAINTENANCE chapter, though I wanted to briefly mention this here.
YouTube channel recommendations -
A multitool will need to be lubricated every now and then so its tools open and close smoothly. Lubricants are discussed in the [VII] MAINTENANCE chapter, though I wanted to briefly mention this here.
YouTube channel recommendations -
Image 1 is a screenshot of deermeatfordinner's YouTube profile. Image 2 is a screenshot of The Wooded Beardsman's YouTube profile. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate YouTube profile.
The cutting blade on a multitool can be used for many things, including skinning game. I personally recommend against using a multitool for skinning, as blood and animal goo are likely to enter the joints. You will have to clean the multitool with water and lubricate it every time you use it like this. A belt knife will be better suited for this task.
Note: An inexperienced skinner is likelier to make mistakes like hitting a bone and damaging the knife's cutting edge. As a result, packing a lighter stainless steel knife solely for food preparation is something to consider.
As I am talking about processing animals, I have recommended two YouTube channels that have processed various animals over the years. If you have never skinned an animal before and do not see yourself doing it in the near future, watching multiple skinning videos like the ones uploaded on these YouTube channels will at least give you a rough idea of how to go about it. Clicking on each image above will take you to the appropriate YouTube channel.
Honorable mentions(3) -
The cutting blade on a multitool can be used for many things, including skinning game. I personally recommend against using a multitool for skinning, as blood and animal goo are likely to enter the joints. You will have to clean the multitool with water and lubricate it every time you use it like this. A belt knife will be better suited for this task.
Note: An inexperienced skinner is likelier to make mistakes like hitting a bone and damaging the knife's cutting edge. As a result, packing a lighter stainless steel knife solely for food preparation is something to consider.
As I am talking about processing animals, I have recommended two YouTube channels that have processed various animals over the years. If you have never skinned an animal before and do not see yourself doing it in the near future, watching multiple skinning videos like the ones uploaded on these YouTube channels will at least give you a rough idea of how to go about it. Clicking on each image above will take you to the appropriate YouTube channel.
Honorable mentions(3) -
Images 1 & 2 were taken from the Knives and Tools website. Image 3 was taken from the MORA website. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
If you do not like the maintenance aspect of a multitool but still want a smaller companion-style blade to accompany your belt knife, I have presented three smaller but capable knives in the images above. Do your own research on these and everything else I have recommended.
Note: If you cannot decide on which multitool model to select, pick one that at least has a cutting blade, a saw and a reamer.
If you do not like the maintenance aspect of a multitool but still want a smaller companion-style blade to accompany your belt knife, I have presented three smaller but capable knives in the images above. Do your own research on these and everything else I have recommended.
Note: If you cannot decide on which multitool model to select, pick one that at least has a cutting blade, a saw and a reamer.
