CHAPTER V
This chapter is regarding “cover.” I will discuss my five-piece cover system, consisting of five items that protect you from the elements and help regulate body temperature.
This chapter is regarding “cover.” I will discuss my five-piece cover system, consisting of five items that protect you from the elements and help regulate body temperature.
The five-piece cover -
Images 1, 4 & 5 were taken from Pixabay and are free for commercial use. Image 2 is a screenshot taken from TheOutdoorgearReview's YouTube video. It is used to illustrate a point I am making. Image 3 was taken from the VARUSTELEKA website. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate source.
I recommend a five-piece kit for your cover, consisting of an elemental cover, a groundsheet, a sleeping mat, a blanket and a sleeping bag. I will explain each item below.
[1] Elemental cover - An elemental cover is your main layer of defence against the elements.
[2] Groundsheet - A groundsheet is a layer of protection between you and the cold ground. It will also protect your sleeping mat and possibly your sleeping bag from abrasion damage from the ground.
[3] Sleeping mat - A sleeping mat is an additional barrier between you and the cold ground. It will elevate you off the ground to keep you from losing body heat while providing much-needed cushioning, as the ground can be hard and uncomfortable to sleep on.
[5] Sleeping bag - A sleeping bag will allow you to stay warm and sleep comfortably.
[4] Blanket - A blanket is an additional layer of insulation that will help you stay warm.
Below, I am going to discuss each cover item in further detail. I will start with the elemental cover.
Elemental cover:
Tarp vs Tent -
I recommend a five-piece kit for your cover, consisting of an elemental cover, a groundsheet, a sleeping mat, a blanket and a sleeping bag. I will explain each item below.
[1] Elemental cover - An elemental cover is your main layer of defence against the elements.
[2] Groundsheet - A groundsheet is a layer of protection between you and the cold ground. It will also protect your sleeping mat and possibly your sleeping bag from abrasion damage from the ground.
[3] Sleeping mat - A sleeping mat is an additional barrier between you and the cold ground. It will elevate you off the ground to keep you from losing body heat while providing much-needed cushioning, as the ground can be hard and uncomfortable to sleep on.
[5] Sleeping bag - A sleeping bag will allow you to stay warm and sleep comfortably.
[4] Blanket - A blanket is an additional layer of insulation that will help you stay warm.
Below, I am going to discuss each cover item in further detail. I will start with the elemental cover.
Elemental cover:
Tarp vs Tent -
The images above were taken from Pixabay and are free for commercial use. Clicking on each image will take you to the original image and uploader.
There are two main options to choose from when it comes to elemental cover: a tarpaulin (tarp) or a tent. A tent is sealed all around, meaning you will stay dryer and warmer in a tent than under a tarp. The enclosed tent will also keep insects and flies out. However, in my opinion, a tarp will be a more realistic option for most humans, considering this elemental cover will be carried in a pack. I will explain why I believe a tarp is a better choice below.
- Lightweight (Tarps weigh less than tents.)
- Packable (Tarps pack smaller than tents.)
- Affordable (A good-quality tarp will be cheaper than a good-quality tent.)
- Versatile (A tarp can be set up in many different configurations, even like a tent.)
- Durable (Tents have zippers and poles that can fail. There is also a risk of tearing a hole in the tent floor, which is why many humans place a footprint underneath their tents. A footprint is a groundsheet for a tent.)
- Less condensation (There will be more airflow under a tarp because it will be more open than a tent.)
Fabrics explained -
There are two main options to choose from when it comes to elemental cover: a tarpaulin (tarp) or a tent. A tent is sealed all around, meaning you will stay dryer and warmer in a tent than under a tarp. The enclosed tent will also keep insects and flies out. However, in my opinion, a tarp will be a more realistic option for most humans, considering this elemental cover will be carried in a pack. I will explain why I believe a tarp is a better choice below.
- Lightweight (Tarps weigh less than tents.)
- Packable (Tarps pack smaller than tents.)
- Affordable (A good-quality tarp will be cheaper than a good-quality tent.)
- Versatile (A tarp can be set up in many different configurations, even like a tent.)
- Durable (Tents have zippers and poles that can fail. There is also a risk of tearing a hole in the tent floor, which is why many humans place a footprint underneath their tents. A footprint is a groundsheet for a tent.)
- Less condensation (There will be more airflow under a tarp because it will be more open than a tent.)
Fabrics explained -
Image 1 was taken from the Amazon website. Image 2 is a screenshot taken from AquaQuest's YouTube video. Image 3 was taken from the DD HAMMOCKS website. Image 4 was taken from the BushcraftSpain website. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate source.
The four main materials often used to make tarps are polypropylene, nylon, polyester and oilskin. Right off the bat, I would like to eliminate a polypropylene tarp as an option because it is cheaply made and will not last very long. It is simply not suitable for a long-term situation. Nylon and polyester, on the other hand, are synthetic fabrics often used to make good-quality tarps. The woven fabrics on their own are not waterproof and will need to be treated with a waterproof coating to repel water. Without any waterproof coatings, both fabrics can resist some water, though polyester will do a better job at this. As a result, nylon will absorb more water than polyester and take longer to dry out. Nylon also tends to stretch, which is not necessarily a bad thing, as the nylon fabric will stretch rather than tear when strong winds sweep in to test it. Both fabrics are abrasion and mildew-resistant, though nylon is stronger than polyester. As I am discussing a long-term situation, your tarp will be exposed to not only rain but also UV rays. Though polyester is more UV-resistant than nylon, both fabrics are susceptible to damage from UV rays. Both fabrics are also flammable. Nylon melts and then burns, whereas polyester melts and burns simultaneously.
Coatings explained -
As I mentioned, these fabrics will not function as tarps without a waterproof coating. Polyester urethane (PU), Polyether urethane (PE), Thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU), Durable water repellent (DWR), and silicone are some of the coatings that are applied to these fabrics to make them hydrophobic (repel water). Waterproof coatings applied to the fabric's surface will degrade over time and not last forever. Such coatings degrade because of hydrolysis, a chemical reaction in which water breaks down the coating. Prolonged exposure to rain is why waterproof coatings degrade and are no longer effective at repelling water.
The four main materials often used to make tarps are polypropylene, nylon, polyester and oilskin. Right off the bat, I would like to eliminate a polypropylene tarp as an option because it is cheaply made and will not last very long. It is simply not suitable for a long-term situation. Nylon and polyester, on the other hand, are synthetic fabrics often used to make good-quality tarps. The woven fabrics on their own are not waterproof and will need to be treated with a waterproof coating to repel water. Without any waterproof coatings, both fabrics can resist some water, though polyester will do a better job at this. As a result, nylon will absorb more water than polyester and take longer to dry out. Nylon also tends to stretch, which is not necessarily a bad thing, as the nylon fabric will stretch rather than tear when strong winds sweep in to test it. Both fabrics are abrasion and mildew-resistant, though nylon is stronger than polyester. As I am discussing a long-term situation, your tarp will be exposed to not only rain but also UV rays. Though polyester is more UV-resistant than nylon, both fabrics are susceptible to damage from UV rays. Both fabrics are also flammable. Nylon melts and then burns, whereas polyester melts and burns simultaneously.
Coatings explained -
As I mentioned, these fabrics will not function as tarps without a waterproof coating. Polyester urethane (PU), Polyether urethane (PE), Thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU), Durable water repellent (DWR), and silicone are some of the coatings that are applied to these fabrics to make them hydrophobic (repel water). Waterproof coatings applied to the fabric's surface will degrade over time and not last forever. Such coatings degrade because of hydrolysis, a chemical reaction in which water breaks down the coating. Prolonged exposure to rain is why waterproof coatings degrade and are no longer effective at repelling water.
Image 1 was taken from the Aqua Quest website. Image 2 was taken by me from my smartphone. Clicking on image 1 will take you to the appropriate webpage.
Some waterproof coatings will last longer than others. For instance, a silicone coating will last much longer than a PU coating because silicone permeates the actual fabric, whereas the PU coating is applied to the fabric's surface.
Note: Coatings can affect a tarp's durability, breathability and weight.
[2] In addition to waterproof coatings, some manufacturers will incorporate ripstop to increase the durability of their tarps. Ripstop is a special reinforcement technique that can be woven into nylon and polyester fabrics. You can tell if a fabric is ripstop by the small, square grids seen in it, like in image 2. The fabric being ripstop does not mean your tarp will never rip. Instead, it will keep an already ripped tarp from fraying and ripping any further, giving you sufficient time to deal with the tear.
Lifespan -
A well-built, good-quality nylon or polyester tarp can last you a couple of years, depending on use and how well you take care of it (e.g., drying the tarp before storing). So what do you do when a tarp no longer repels water?
Some waterproof coatings will last longer than others. For instance, a silicone coating will last much longer than a PU coating because silicone permeates the actual fabric, whereas the PU coating is applied to the fabric's surface.
Note: Coatings can affect a tarp's durability, breathability and weight.
[2] In addition to waterproof coatings, some manufacturers will incorporate ripstop to increase the durability of their tarps. Ripstop is a special reinforcement technique that can be woven into nylon and polyester fabrics. You can tell if a fabric is ripstop by the small, square grids seen in it, like in image 2. The fabric being ripstop does not mean your tarp will never rip. Instead, it will keep an already ripped tarp from fraying and ripping any further, giving you sufficient time to deal with the tear.
Lifespan -
A well-built, good-quality nylon or polyester tarp can last you a couple of years, depending on use and how well you take care of it (e.g., drying the tarp before storing). So what do you do when a tarp no longer repels water?
The Images above are screenshots taken from Outer limitless's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on each image will take you to the original video.
If your tarp begins to lose its waterproof treatment, you can simply buy a new one. Alternatively, waterproofing products, like in image 1, can be purchased to re-treat the tarp. Such products can be applied to a tarp multiple times to build a stronger coat. The more coats of treatment you apply, the heavier the tarp will become.
I recommend checking out REI's YouTube video on retreatment. Click here to watch.
Waterproof rating -
If your tarp begins to lose its waterproof treatment, you can simply buy a new one. Alternatively, waterproofing products, like in image 1, can be purchased to re-treat the tarp. Such products can be applied to a tarp multiple times to build a stronger coat. The more coats of treatment you apply, the heavier the tarp will become.
I recommend checking out REI's YouTube video on retreatment. Click here to watch.
Waterproof rating -
The images above are screenshots taken from the Amazon website. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
Every tarp will have a waterproof rating to tell you how waterproof it is. The higher the rating, the better the waterproofness. The rating is measured using the hydrostatic head test, which measures the amount of water a fabric can hold before it begins to seep through. It is measured in millimeters, and I have presented two examples in the images above. For a fabric to successfully repel water, a minimum rating of 1000mm is required. Some manufacturers coat their tarps with multiple coatings to increase the hydrostatic head rating. A higher rating is desirable, and I recommend a tarp with a waterproof rating of 5000mm or more.
Dimensions -
Every tarp will have a waterproof rating to tell you how waterproof it is. The higher the rating, the better the waterproofness. The rating is measured using the hydrostatic head test, which measures the amount of water a fabric can hold before it begins to seep through. It is measured in millimeters, and I have presented two examples in the images above. For a fabric to successfully repel water, a minimum rating of 1000mm is required. Some manufacturers coat their tarps with multiple coatings to increase the hydrostatic head rating. A higher rating is desirable, and I recommend a tarp with a waterproof rating of 5000mm or more.
Dimensions -
The images above were taken from the AQUAQUEST website. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
Tarps come in two main shapes: rectangular or square. I personally recommend choosing a square tarp because it will give you more configuration options than a rectangular tarp.
Grommets vs Webbing loops -
Tarps come in two main shapes: rectangular or square. I personally recommend choosing a square tarp because it will give you more configuration options than a rectangular tarp.
Grommets vs Webbing loops -
The images above were taken by me from my smartphone.
Tarps either come with grommets or webbing loops to help set them up. I highly recommend avoiding tarps with grommets because they are known to tear out of the fabric. If a webbing loop were to come off a tarp, it could be stitched back on, unlike a grommet. Stick to tarps with webbing loops.
Tarp seam explained -
Tarps either come with grommets or webbing loops to help set them up. I highly recommend avoiding tarps with grommets because they are known to tear out of the fabric. If a webbing loop were to come off a tarp, it could be stitched back on, unlike a grommet. Stick to tarps with webbing loops.
Tarp seam explained -
Image 1 was taken by me from my smartphone. Image 2 is a screenshot taken from TheOutdoorGearReview's YouTube video. It is used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on image 2 will take you to the original video.
When manufacturers stitch a tarp together, water can leak through the small holes created by the needle after stitching. The seam must be sealed to ensure water does not leak through. When selecting a tarp, it is wise to ensure the seam is sealed, similar to image 1. If your tarp's seam is not sealed, you can manually seal it yourself. I recommend clicking on image 2 to learn how to do this.
Fire & tarps -
When manufacturers stitch a tarp together, water can leak through the small holes created by the needle after stitching. The seam must be sealed to ensure water does not leak through. When selecting a tarp, it is wise to ensure the seam is sealed, similar to image 1. If your tarp's seam is not sealed, you can manually seal it yourself. I recommend clicking on image 2 to learn how to do this.
Fire & tarps -
The images above were taken from Pixabay and are free for commercial use. Clicking on each image will take you to the original image and uploader.
Having a fire near your tarp will be a necessity on colder days and nights. Unfortunately, both nylon and polyester being flammable means that extreme heat and sparks from your campfire can melt and burn holes in your tarp. A solution to this issue is to build a campfire a couple of feet away from the tarp. Doing so will provide warmth while sparing the tarp's life. I have seen Paul Kirtley build a small fire under a tarp and seen his tarp survive. Click here to watch his video.
Now seems like the best time to introduce oilskin, as you are less likely to experience this issue with an oilskin tarp.
All about oilskin -
Having a fire near your tarp will be a necessity on colder days and nights. Unfortunately, both nylon and polyester being flammable means that extreme heat and sparks from your campfire can melt and burn holes in your tarp. A solution to this issue is to build a campfire a couple of feet away from the tarp. Doing so will provide warmth while sparing the tarp's life. I have seen Paul Kirtley build a small fire under a tarp and seen his tarp survive. Click here to watch his video.
Now seems like the best time to introduce oilskin, as you are less likely to experience this issue with an oilskin tarp.
All about oilskin -
The images above were taken from the BUSHCRAFT SPAIN website. Clicking on either image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
In the 1800s, Edward Le Roy, a New Zealander, discovered that oil could be used as a waterproofing agent. He applied boiled linseed oil to a worn-out sailcloth, only to discover his new invention was able to successfully repel water. Edward, being a sailor, struck gold as he could use his new discovery for his apparel when sailing. As his discovery spread, many countries acknowledged his oilskin as a superior material. Countries like Australia adopted the oilskin and began manufacturing coats with it. Since then, oilskin has been used to make various garments, like coats, hats, overalls, etc. It is also used in the making of tarps, which is what I will be focusing on.
Oilskin, also called oilcloth, is a fabric cured with oil. The fabric often used is cotton, and the oil used to waterproof it is boiled linseed oil. In addition to oil, some manufacturers may even include waxes and drying agents to seal and remove excess oil from the tarp. Oilskin tarps are extremely durable and will hold strong in adverse conditions and over rugged terrain. Though not fireproof, casual sparks from a campfire will bounce off with no problem. Unfortunately, oilskin tarps can be significantly heavier than nylon and polyester tarps. In some cases, they are twice as heavy, making them less portable. In addition to their weight, oilskin tarps can be extremely expensive and out of many people's budgets.
Lifespan -
In the 1800s, Edward Le Roy, a New Zealander, discovered that oil could be used as a waterproofing agent. He applied boiled linseed oil to a worn-out sailcloth, only to discover his new invention was able to successfully repel water. Edward, being a sailor, struck gold as he could use his new discovery for his apparel when sailing. As his discovery spread, many countries acknowledged his oilskin as a superior material. Countries like Australia adopted the oilskin and began manufacturing coats with it. Since then, oilskin has been used to make various garments, like coats, hats, overalls, etc. It is also used in the making of tarps, which is what I will be focusing on.
Oilskin, also called oilcloth, is a fabric cured with oil. The fabric often used is cotton, and the oil used to waterproof it is boiled linseed oil. In addition to oil, some manufacturers may even include waxes and drying agents to seal and remove excess oil from the tarp. Oilskin tarps are extremely durable and will hold strong in adverse conditions and over rugged terrain. Though not fireproof, casual sparks from a campfire will bounce off with no problem. Unfortunately, oilskin tarps can be significantly heavier than nylon and polyester tarps. In some cases, they are twice as heavy, making them less portable. In addition to their weight, oilskin tarps can be extremely expensive and out of many people's budgets.
Lifespan -
The Image above is a screenshot taken from GLB Woodsbum 256's YouTube video. It is used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on the image will take you to the original video.
How long the oil coating will last will vary. Above is a screenshot from GLB Woodsbum 256's YouTube video, in which he discusses oilskin. He presents two of his oilskin hats, one that he treats once every year and the other that he has never treated despite having been in his possession for 30 years.
How long the oil coating will last will vary. Above is a screenshot from GLB Woodsbum 256's YouTube video, in which he discusses oilskin. He presents two of his oilskin hats, one that he treats once every year and the other that he has never treated despite having been in his possession for 30 years.
The image above is a screenshot taken from the COALCRACKER BUSHCRAFT journal. Clicking on the image will take you to the full Q & A.
During my research, I found conflicting statements on how long the oil coating would last. Above is a screenshot of a Q&A journal from the COALCRACKER BUSHCRAFT website, written by Dan, an experienced survival instructor. Dan acknowledges there is a chance the fabric may lose its treatment, but from his personal experience, he states it would take years for this to happen. Clicking on the image above will take you to the full Q&A.
When I personally inquired about a particular oilskin tarp, however, I was told it would need to be retreated every year or two, depending on use.
Making your own oilskin -
During my research, I found conflicting statements on how long the oil coating would last. Above is a screenshot of a Q&A journal from the COALCRACKER BUSHCRAFT website, written by Dan, an experienced survival instructor. Dan acknowledges there is a chance the fabric may lose its treatment, but from his personal experience, he states it would take years for this to happen. Clicking on the image above will take you to the full Q&A.
When I personally inquired about a particular oilskin tarp, however, I was told it would need to be retreated every year or two, depending on use.
Making your own oilskin -
The Image above is a screenshot taken from William Collins's YouTube video. It is used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on the image will take you to the original video.
As mentioned above, oilskin can be quite expensive and out of many people's budget. As a result, you can make oilskin material yourself and save yourself a lot of money. William Collins, a custom knife maker, found an oilskin recipe on an online forum. A user on that forum claimed his homemade oilskin tarp lasted him 15 years without needing to be retreated.
As mentioned above, oilskin can be quite expensive and out of many people's budget. As a result, you can make oilskin material yourself and save yourself a lot of money. William Collins, a custom knife maker, found an oilskin recipe on an online forum. A user on that forum claimed his homemade oilskin tarp lasted him 15 years without needing to be retreated.
Images 1 & 4 were taken from Pixabay and are free for commercial use. Images 2 & 3 were taken by me from my smartphone. Clicking on images 2 or 3 will take you to the original image and uploader.
To make oilskin, you will need fabric (cotton), boiled linseed oil, white spirit or turpentine (drying agent), and a container.
To make oilskin, you will need fabric (cotton), boiled linseed oil, white spirit or turpentine (drying agent), and a container.
The Images above are screenshots taken from William Collins's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on each image will take you to the original video.
Mix boiled linseed oil with white spirit and cover the fabric with the mixture. Once the fabric is fully saturated, leave it to dry. Once it has dried, you will have successfully created oilskin fabric.
Note: The boiled linseed oil and white spirit mixture should be a ratio of 1:1. For example, if you use 150ml of oil, you must also use 150ml of white spirit.
Before curing the fabric -
Mix boiled linseed oil with white spirit and cover the fabric with the mixture. Once the fabric is fully saturated, leave it to dry. Once it has dried, you will have successfully created oilskin fabric.
Note: The boiled linseed oil and white spirit mixture should be a ratio of 1:1. For example, if you use 150ml of oil, you must also use 150ml of white spirit.
Before curing the fabric -
The images above were taken from Pixabay and are free for commercial use. Clicking on each image will take you to the original image and uploader.
It would be wise to wash the cotton fabric with warm water before applying the oil mixture to it. Washing the fabric will shrink it and bring the threads closer, closing the air gaps. Doing so will allow the tarp to repel water better.
It would be wise to wash the cotton fabric with warm water before applying the oil mixture to it. Washing the fabric will shrink it and bring the threads closer, closing the air gaps. Doing so will allow the tarp to repel water better.
The images above were taken by me from my smartphone.
Tie-out points are also something to consider before curing the fabric. They will come in handy when setting up the tarp. A tie-out point can be created by stitching a loop to the fabric, which can be made from cotton or nylon webbing. If you missed this step and have cured the fabric without any tie-out points, there is a solution. A tie-out point can be improvised with cordage. Simply make a slip knot (an adjustable loop) and a paracord ball, as seen in image 2. Any cordage can be used for this task, though I recommend 550 paracord.
Click here to learn how to tie a slip knot.
Click here to learn how to create a paracord ball.
Tie-out points are also something to consider before curing the fabric. They will come in handy when setting up the tarp. A tie-out point can be created by stitching a loop to the fabric, which can be made from cotton or nylon webbing. If you missed this step and have cured the fabric without any tie-out points, there is a solution. A tie-out point can be improvised with cordage. Simply make a slip knot (an adjustable loop) and a paracord ball, as seen in image 2. Any cordage can be used for this task, though I recommend 550 paracord.
Click here to learn how to tie a slip knot.
Click here to learn how to create a paracord ball.
The images above were taken by me from my smartphone.
Once you have successfully created the loop and ball, place the ball wherever you would like to create a tie-out point on the fabric. Wrap the fabric over it, place the loop around it, and pull on the cord to tighten it. If done correctly, you would now have a tie-out point. The ball prevents the loop from sliding off, and the cord with the loop can be tied to set up the tarp however you want. You can create as many tie-out points as you wish with this method. A paracord ball is not necessary, and you can technically use any material for this job.
Note: I have only briefly explained how to create an oilskin tarp. I recommend doing more research before attempting it. There are many instructional videos on YouTube.
Four tarp configurations -
Below, I will present four ways a tarp can be set up. These four configurations will require cordage and tent stakes.
Once you have successfully created the loop and ball, place the ball wherever you would like to create a tie-out point on the fabric. Wrap the fabric over it, place the loop around it, and pull on the cord to tighten it. If done correctly, you would now have a tie-out point. The ball prevents the loop from sliding off, and the cord with the loop can be tied to set up the tarp however you want. You can create as many tie-out points as you wish with this method. A paracord ball is not necessary, and you can technically use any material for this job.
Note: I have only briefly explained how to create an oilskin tarp. I recommend doing more research before attempting it. There are many instructional videos on YouTube.
Four tarp configurations -
Below, I will present four ways a tarp can be set up. These four configurations will require cordage and tent stakes.
The Images above are screenshots taken from Corporals Corner's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
The lean-to shelter setup is quick and easy to deploy. This configuration will require two poles to set up. Shaun used two trees in this example. The two corners of the tarp in the front are secured to the trees using cordage, and the two corners on the backside are secured to the ground using tent stakes.
The lean-to shelter setup is quick and easy to deploy. This configuration will require two poles to set up. Shaun used two trees in this example. The two corners of the tarp in the front are secured to the trees using cordage, and the two corners on the backside are secured to the ground using tent stakes.
The Images above are screenshots taken from Corporals Corner's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
An a-frame shelter setup will provide you with more cover than the lean-to. This setup also requires two poles, cordage and tent stakes. I recommend clicking on either image from above to learn how to erect an a-frame shelter.
An a-frame shelter setup will provide you with more cover than the lean-to. This setup also requires two poles, cordage and tent stakes. I recommend clicking on either image from above to learn how to erect an a-frame shelter.
The Images above are screenshots taken from Scotty's Gone Walkabout's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
A tarp can also be set up like a tent with the help of a pole and tent stakes. Stones or logs can be placed around the edges of the tarp to keep the critters out. This enclosed setup will keep you warm, though condensation can become a problem because of the lack of airflow.
A tarp can also be set up like a tent with the help of a pole and tent stakes. Stones or logs can be placed around the edges of the tarp to keep the critters out. This enclosed setup will keep you warm, though condensation can become a problem because of the lack of airflow.
The Images above are screenshots taken from Coalcracker Bushcraft's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
The standalone plow-point shelter is set up using a tripod, created by binding three long sticks together. This is a good way to configure your tarp for a long-term situation. You could safely build a campfire in front of it, as the sparks from the fire are likely to hit the two poles extended in front, sparing the tarp. Condensation will also not be an issue with this setup.
Groundsheet:
The standalone plow-point shelter is set up using a tripod, created by binding three long sticks together. This is a good way to configure your tarp for a long-term situation. You could safely build a campfire in front of it, as the sparks from the fire are likely to hit the two poles extended in front, sparing the tarp. Condensation will also not be an issue with this setup.
Groundsheet:
Image 1 was taken from Pixabay and is free for commercial use. Images 2,3,4 & 6 were taken by me from my smartphone. Image 5 is a screenshot taken from TheOutdoorGearReview's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on image 1 or 5 will take you to the appropriate source.
A groundsheet is a piece of material you place on the ground to keep yourself off it. It is a layer of defence against the cold ground and a protective layer for your sleeping mat and sleeping bag. A groundsheet must be durable and waterproof. Below, I will list some common items used as groundsheets today.
[1] Polypropylene/polyethylene tarps - Many humans use these cheap tarps as groundsheets because they are inexpensive and easily replaceable. Though waterproof, they are not durable enough for a long-term situation.
[2] Commercial groundsheet - A commercial groundsheet is simply fabric cured with a waterproof coating. It is essentially a small tarp. The "DD Hammocks DD magic carpet" is a product that comes to mind. You will find many of these types of groundsheets on Amazon. While they may be more durable than polypropylene tarps, they tend to be thin and lightweight.
[3] Heavy-duty bin bag liners (contractor bags) - Thick bin bags are usually made from polyethylene, making them durable and waterproof. Simply laying two empty bin bags in a rectangular formation will create a groundsheet. You can even convert these bin bags into makeshift mattresses by stuffing them with leaves and debris, increasing insulation.
[4] Tyvek - Tyvek is created from 100% High-Density Polyethylene (HDPE). It has randomly scattered HDPE fibers within the material, giving it superior tear resistance, puncture resistance, and better overall durability. You will be able to see the randomly dispersed fibers inside the material as you hold it up to a light source. It will be tough to rip this material with your bare hands. Tyvek comes in two forms: hard (paperlike) and soft (fabric-like). For a groundsheet, I recommend selecting the "HOUSEWRAP" grade, which is paperlike. Water will not penetrate a sheet of Tyvek, though water vapour and gases will, as it is a breathable material. Many humans use it as a cheap, durable and lightweight option for a groundsheet with much success. One major issue humans despise about Tyvek is that it can be noisy, especially when moving on top of it. This issue can be resolved by either washing it in your washing machine or scrunching it up and unravelling it several times.
[5] Polycro - Polycryo is an ultralight, industrial-grade plastic sheeting humans use as a groundsheet. Unlike Tyvek, Polycryo is 100% waterproof. Though puncture-resistant, it is not as durable as Tyvek. It is, however, the lightest material discussed in this section. I have read on multiple sites where humans have stated Polycryo has successfully served them for many years. If a tear occurs, it can be patched with some duct tape. This applies to any groundsheet with a tear.
[6] Mylar blanket (Space blanket) - A mylar blanket is a polyester film made from stretched polyethylene terephthalate (PET). It is windproof, waterproof, strong and able to reflect 90% radiant heat. Though Mylar blankets are made from a strong material, a small tear can quickly turn into a big one. Similar to Tyvek, mylar blankets are loud and noisy. I believe it was Mors Kochanski who popularized the mylar blanket in the outdoor community, as it is one of the components used in his super shelter.
A groundsheet is a piece of material you place on the ground to keep yourself off it. It is a layer of defence against the cold ground and a protective layer for your sleeping mat and sleeping bag. A groundsheet must be durable and waterproof. Below, I will list some common items used as groundsheets today.
[1] Polypropylene/polyethylene tarps - Many humans use these cheap tarps as groundsheets because they are inexpensive and easily replaceable. Though waterproof, they are not durable enough for a long-term situation.
[2] Commercial groundsheet - A commercial groundsheet is simply fabric cured with a waterproof coating. It is essentially a small tarp. The "DD Hammocks DD magic carpet" is a product that comes to mind. You will find many of these types of groundsheets on Amazon. While they may be more durable than polypropylene tarps, they tend to be thin and lightweight.
[3] Heavy-duty bin bag liners (contractor bags) - Thick bin bags are usually made from polyethylene, making them durable and waterproof. Simply laying two empty bin bags in a rectangular formation will create a groundsheet. You can even convert these bin bags into makeshift mattresses by stuffing them with leaves and debris, increasing insulation.
[4] Tyvek - Tyvek is created from 100% High-Density Polyethylene (HDPE). It has randomly scattered HDPE fibers within the material, giving it superior tear resistance, puncture resistance, and better overall durability. You will be able to see the randomly dispersed fibers inside the material as you hold it up to a light source. It will be tough to rip this material with your bare hands. Tyvek comes in two forms: hard (paperlike) and soft (fabric-like). For a groundsheet, I recommend selecting the "HOUSEWRAP" grade, which is paperlike. Water will not penetrate a sheet of Tyvek, though water vapour and gases will, as it is a breathable material. Many humans use it as a cheap, durable and lightweight option for a groundsheet with much success. One major issue humans despise about Tyvek is that it can be noisy, especially when moving on top of it. This issue can be resolved by either washing it in your washing machine or scrunching it up and unravelling it several times.
[5] Polycro - Polycryo is an ultralight, industrial-grade plastic sheeting humans use as a groundsheet. Unlike Tyvek, Polycryo is 100% waterproof. Though puncture-resistant, it is not as durable as Tyvek. It is, however, the lightest material discussed in this section. I have read on multiple sites where humans have stated Polycryo has successfully served them for many years. If a tear occurs, it can be patched with some duct tape. This applies to any groundsheet with a tear.
[6] Mylar blanket (Space blanket) - A mylar blanket is a polyester film made from stretched polyethylene terephthalate (PET). It is windproof, waterproof, strong and able to reflect 90% radiant heat. Though Mylar blankets are made from a strong material, a small tear can quickly turn into a big one. Similar to Tyvek, mylar blankets are loud and noisy. I believe it was Mors Kochanski who popularized the mylar blanket in the outdoor community, as it is one of the components used in his super shelter.
The Images above are screenshots taken from Corporals Corner's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
There is also the option to configure your tarp in such a way that you will be protected from the ground, as seen in the images above. This will, however, significantly limit the number of ways you can set up your tarp, which is why I personally prefer a dedicated groundsheet.
Honorable mention(1) -
There is also the option to configure your tarp in such a way that you will be protected from the ground, as seen in the images above. This will, however, significantly limit the number of ways you can set up your tarp, which is why I personally prefer a dedicated groundsheet.
Honorable mention(1) -
The images above were taken by me from my smartphone.
The German "elephant skin" groundsheet is a product I recommend checking out. It is made from rip-stop nylon and is completely waterproof. It was issued to German soldiers in the 1980s as a protective layer for their sleeping bags. The soldiers would call it "elephant skin" because of its texture and durability.
Sleeping mat:
The three types -
The German "elephant skin" groundsheet is a product I recommend checking out. It is made from rip-stop nylon and is completely waterproof. It was issued to German soldiers in the 1980s as a protective layer for their sleeping bags. The soldiers would call it "elephant skin" because of its texture and durability.
Sleeping mat:
The three types -
Image 1 was taken from the THERMAREST website. Image 2 was taken from the Amazon website. Image 3 was taken from Pixabay and is free for commercial use. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate source.
A sleeping mat will provide insulation and cushioning from the cold, hard ground. There are three types of sleeping mats, and I will discuss them below.
[1] Air pad - Air pads, also called inflatable mats, are inflated by blowing air into them. Unwinding the air valve will let the air out. With no air inside, they pack small, making them compact and lightweight. Their lightweight nature, unfortunately, makes them prone to punctures, which is why nearly all inflatable mats come with a repair kit. Air pads can be inflated by blowing air into them with your mouth. The moisture from your breath will create mold inside the pad over time. To avoid mold, some companies will include a pump sack with the pad.
[2] Open-cell foam pad - Open-cell foam pads, also called self-inflating mats, will automatically suck air in and inflate themselves as soon as you unwind the air valve and roll them out. There is no need to manually breathe into the air valve, though you could. Open-cell foam pads are heavier and are not as compact as air pads. They are also prone to punctures and usually come with a repair kit, like air pads.
[3] Closed-cell foam pad - Closed-cell foam pads are made from dense foam and do not need to be filled with air. You simply roll the pad open and use it as is. These pads are virtually indestructible, making them reliable, especially in a long-term situation. Though they do not provide the best insulation and are not as comfortable, they will still provide some insulation and cushioning from the cold, hard ground. Unfortunately, this type of pad is bulky and does not pack small, which is why humans often attach it to the outside of their packs when carrying it. Closed-cell foam pads are, however, more affordable than the other two options.
I believe a closed-cell foam pad is the best choice for a long-term bug-out situation because of its durability. However, this does not necessarily mean it is the best option for you, especially if you experience pain in your hips or back and have difficulty sleeping. I encourage you to do your own research to find the best pad for yourself.
R-value -
A sleeping mat will provide insulation and cushioning from the cold, hard ground. There are three types of sleeping mats, and I will discuss them below.
[1] Air pad - Air pads, also called inflatable mats, are inflated by blowing air into them. Unwinding the air valve will let the air out. With no air inside, they pack small, making them compact and lightweight. Their lightweight nature, unfortunately, makes them prone to punctures, which is why nearly all inflatable mats come with a repair kit. Air pads can be inflated by blowing air into them with your mouth. The moisture from your breath will create mold inside the pad over time. To avoid mold, some companies will include a pump sack with the pad.
[2] Open-cell foam pad - Open-cell foam pads, also called self-inflating mats, will automatically suck air in and inflate themselves as soon as you unwind the air valve and roll them out. There is no need to manually breathe into the air valve, though you could. Open-cell foam pads are heavier and are not as compact as air pads. They are also prone to punctures and usually come with a repair kit, like air pads.
[3] Closed-cell foam pad - Closed-cell foam pads are made from dense foam and do not need to be filled with air. You simply roll the pad open and use it as is. These pads are virtually indestructible, making them reliable, especially in a long-term situation. Though they do not provide the best insulation and are not as comfortable, they will still provide some insulation and cushioning from the cold, hard ground. Unfortunately, this type of pad is bulky and does not pack small, which is why humans often attach it to the outside of their packs when carrying it. Closed-cell foam pads are, however, more affordable than the other two options.
I believe a closed-cell foam pad is the best choice for a long-term bug-out situation because of its durability. However, this does not necessarily mean it is the best option for you, especially if you experience pain in your hips or back and have difficulty sleeping. I encourage you to do your own research to find the best pad for yourself.
R-value -
The Image above was taken from the THERMAREST website. Clicking on the image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
A sleeping mat will be assigned an R-value, which will help you select the right one. The R-value is a measure of thermal resistance, showing how much insulation a sleeping pad will provide. The higher the R-value, the more insulation a pad will provide. As a result, colder climates require a higher value, whereas a lower value will be sufficient for warmer climates. An all-season pad is ideal. However, getting a four-season rating on a closed-cell foam pad is hopeless, as they typically have an R-value below 3. This means, at best, a closed-cell foam pad will be good for two seasons.
A sleeping mat will be assigned an R-value, which will help you select the right one. The R-value is a measure of thermal resistance, showing how much insulation a sleeping pad will provide. The higher the R-value, the more insulation a pad will provide. As a result, colder climates require a higher value, whereas a lower value will be sufficient for warmer climates. An all-season pad is ideal. However, getting a four-season rating on a closed-cell foam pad is hopeless, as they typically have an R-value below 3. This means, at best, a closed-cell foam pad will be good for two seasons.
The images above were taken from the Highlander website. Clicking on either image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
To combat the lack of insulation that comes with a closed-cell foam pad, many humans will place a thermal blanket, like the one in the images above, under their sleeping mat to increase insulation.
To combat the lack of insulation that comes with a closed-cell foam pad, many humans will place a thermal blanket, like the one in the images above, under their sleeping mat to increase insulation.
The Images above are screenshots taken from Survival Lilly's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on any image will take you to the original video.
Alternatively, you can build a raised platform out of logs, as seen in the images above, and place your mat on top. Doing so will lift you higher off the ground and prevent the cold ground from sucking heat from your body. This would definitely be the way to go in a long-term bug-out situation. With this particular platform Lilly created, there is a hollow space beneath it, allowing air to fill it. Convection can become an issue, meaning the air circulating around and under your body can make you cold. On colder days, it would be wise to fill such a space with logs and debris to limit the air supply, trapping heat and keeping you warm. On warmer days, the hollow space can be emptied.
Radiation, Conduction & Convection explained -
Alternatively, you can build a raised platform out of logs, as seen in the images above, and place your mat on top. Doing so will lift you higher off the ground and prevent the cold ground from sucking heat from your body. This would definitely be the way to go in a long-term bug-out situation. With this particular platform Lilly created, there is a hollow space beneath it, allowing air to fill it. Convection can become an issue, meaning the air circulating around and under your body can make you cold. On colder days, it would be wise to fill such a space with logs and debris to limit the air supply, trapping heat and keeping you warm. On warmer days, the hollow space can be emptied.
Radiation, Conduction & Convection explained -
Image 1 was created by me in Microsoft Paint 3D. Image 2 was compiled using two images from Pixabay that are free for commercial use. Click here for image 1. Click here for image 2.
Understanding how to manipulate radiation, conduction and convection will help you regulate body temperature in the field. I want to mention them so that you understand them briefly.
Radiation - Radiation is the emission of energy in the form of waves, rays or particles. All this means is something that gives off heat. For instance, the sun, a campfire, your body, etc.
Conduction - Conduction is the transfer of heat or electric current from one object to another by direct contact. For example, if you lie directly on the ground, you become cold. If you put a metal pot on a stove, it gets hot.
Convection - Convection is the transfer of heat through a liquid or gas caused by molecular motion. All this really means is that as air circulates around your body, your body will lose heat.
Sleeping bag:
Season rating -
Understanding how to manipulate radiation, conduction and convection will help you regulate body temperature in the field. I want to mention them so that you understand them briefly.
Radiation - Radiation is the emission of energy in the form of waves, rays or particles. All this means is something that gives off heat. For instance, the sun, a campfire, your body, etc.
Conduction - Conduction is the transfer of heat or electric current from one object to another by direct contact. For example, if you lie directly on the ground, you become cold. If you put a metal pot on a stove, it gets hot.
Convection - Convection is the transfer of heat through a liquid or gas caused by molecular motion. All this really means is that as air circulates around your body, your body will lose heat.
Sleeping bag:
Season rating -
The image above was taken from the Military Kit website. Clicking on the image above will take you to the appropriate webpage.
Every sleeping bag has a season rating to help you select the correct one. It is similar to the R-value of a sleeping mat. There are sleeping bags designed for hotter to colder climates. For a long-term bug-out situation, I recommend selecting a sleeping bag that will cover most of the seasons where you live. Something like a 3-season sleeping bag may work well for most humans. During summer, for example, you can use the sleeping bag as a blanket rather than sleeping inside it. During winter, when your sleeping bag is not warm enough, supplementing it with a blanket and a fire should keep you warm.
Temperature rating -
Other than the season rating (summer, winter, etc.), the temperature rating will tell you the specific temperatures a sleeping bag is designed for. Sleeping bags will have two main ratings, a comfort rating and an extreme temperature rating. Some bags will also have a lower limit and an upper limit rating.
Comfort rating - A comfort rating is a temperature at which an average adult woman will sleep comfortably. For example, if your sleeping bag has a comfort rating of 5 degrees Celsius and the temperature outside is around that, you should have a pleasant night's sleep. If not, you may feel some discomfort. Note: The comfort rating is sometimes called the "women's rating."
Extreme temperature rating - An extreme temperature rating is the utmost limit of your sleeping bag. It is the lowest temperature at which an average adult woman will remain alive. For example, if your sleeping bag has an extreme temperature rating of -7 degrees Celsius and the temperature outside is around that, it should keep you alive. However, you will not have a comfortable night's sleep.
Lower limit rating - A lower limit rating, also called the "male comfort rating," is a temperature at which an average adult male will sleep comfortably. Men have more muscle mass than women and thus generate more body heat, allowing them to sleep comfortably at slightly lower temperatures than women.
Upper limit rating - An upper limit rating is the highest temperature at which an average adult male can comfortably sleep without sweating and getting too hot.
How accurate these temperature ratings are will, in part, depend on you. What kind of sleeper are you, warm or cold? What kind of clothes will you be wearing when sleeping? Will you be wearing any base layers? How much insulation does your sleeping mat provide? If you sleep in a sleeping bag while lying directly on the ground without a sleeping mat, you will get cold, regardless of whether the sleeping bag is within the correct temperature ratings. For the temperature ratings to be accurate, you must pair an appropriate sleeping mat with your sleeping bag.
Sleeping bag insulation explained -
Every sleeping bag has a season rating to help you select the correct one. It is similar to the R-value of a sleeping mat. There are sleeping bags designed for hotter to colder climates. For a long-term bug-out situation, I recommend selecting a sleeping bag that will cover most of the seasons where you live. Something like a 3-season sleeping bag may work well for most humans. During summer, for example, you can use the sleeping bag as a blanket rather than sleeping inside it. During winter, when your sleeping bag is not warm enough, supplementing it with a blanket and a fire should keep you warm.
Temperature rating -
Other than the season rating (summer, winter, etc.), the temperature rating will tell you the specific temperatures a sleeping bag is designed for. Sleeping bags will have two main ratings, a comfort rating and an extreme temperature rating. Some bags will also have a lower limit and an upper limit rating.
Comfort rating - A comfort rating is a temperature at which an average adult woman will sleep comfortably. For example, if your sleeping bag has a comfort rating of 5 degrees Celsius and the temperature outside is around that, you should have a pleasant night's sleep. If not, you may feel some discomfort. Note: The comfort rating is sometimes called the "women's rating."
Extreme temperature rating - An extreme temperature rating is the utmost limit of your sleeping bag. It is the lowest temperature at which an average adult woman will remain alive. For example, if your sleeping bag has an extreme temperature rating of -7 degrees Celsius and the temperature outside is around that, it should keep you alive. However, you will not have a comfortable night's sleep.
Lower limit rating - A lower limit rating, also called the "male comfort rating," is a temperature at which an average adult male will sleep comfortably. Men have more muscle mass than women and thus generate more body heat, allowing them to sleep comfortably at slightly lower temperatures than women.
Upper limit rating - An upper limit rating is the highest temperature at which an average adult male can comfortably sleep without sweating and getting too hot.
How accurate these temperature ratings are will, in part, depend on you. What kind of sleeper are you, warm or cold? What kind of clothes will you be wearing when sleeping? Will you be wearing any base layers? How much insulation does your sleeping mat provide? If you sleep in a sleeping bag while lying directly on the ground without a sleeping mat, you will get cold, regardless of whether the sleeping bag is within the correct temperature ratings. For the temperature ratings to be accurate, you must pair an appropriate sleeping mat with your sleeping bag.
Sleeping bag insulation explained -
The images above were taken from Pixabay and are free for commercial use. Clicking on each image will take you to the original image and uploader.
The insulation filling is the component inside the sleeping bag that will keep you warm. There are two types of insulation fillings in sleeping bags: synthetic and down.
[1] Synthetic - Synthetic sleeping bags are more affordable than down sleeping bags. If they get wet, they will still retain a significant amount of insulation, unlike down. In other words, they will keep you warm if they get wet. Unfortunately, synthetic sleeping bags do not have a good weight-to-warmth ratio. A down bag with the same comfort rating will weigh much less and pack much smaller. Synthetic bags will also have a shorter lifespan than down bags. Over time, as you use a synthetic sleeping bag, the insulation layer inside will compress, affecting the bag's insulation properties. Loft, or fluffiness, is needed to trap heat to keep you warm. With a compressed insulation layer inside your synthetic bag, it will no longer keep you warm at the specified temperature ratings. In other words, synthetic insulation degrades with use. For instance, if the comfort rating of a sleeping bag is 5 degrees Celsius when you first buy it, after much use and compression of the insulation layer, the new rating may become 12 degrees Celsius. As a result, your sleeping bag will no longer keep you warm at 5 degrees Celsius, and you will need an additional insulation layer to keep you warm, like a blanket. Perhaps packing a 4-season sleeping bag instead of a 3-season one may be the way to go. At first, you may feel uncomfortable. However, once the insulation inside is compressed, the temperature rating may become accurate.
[2] Down - Down sleeping bags use real bird feathers as insulation, whereas synthetic sleeping bags use an artificial filling. Unfortunately, some humans can be allergic to down feathers. If you are one of these humans, you have no choice but to pick a synthetic sleeping bag. Down bags have an excellent weight-to-warmth ratio, making them just as effective as their synthetic counterparts, but at a lighter weight. They can also compress and pack down small, taking up less room in a pack. Note: anything in the outdoor industry marketed as "lightweight" or "ultralightweight" will be costly, and down sleeping bags can be very expensive. They will, however, have a longer lifespan than synthetic bags if taken care of. If a down sleeping bag gets wet, it will no longer keep you warm, unlike a synthetic bag, which dries quicker too. This is because water clams up the feathers inside, causing the down bag to lose its insulation value. Luckily for you humans, there has been a technological intervention when it comes to down sleeping bags. Hydrophobic down is now widely used by many manufacturers. They simply cover the feathers with a water-repellent coating, absorbing 70% less moisture than untreated feathers and drying three times faster. One thing I personally hate about down sleeping bags is that down feathers can sometimes leak out of the outer shell of the sleeping bag.
Down insulation further explained -
The insulation filling is the component inside the sleeping bag that will keep you warm. There are two types of insulation fillings in sleeping bags: synthetic and down.
[1] Synthetic - Synthetic sleeping bags are more affordable than down sleeping bags. If they get wet, they will still retain a significant amount of insulation, unlike down. In other words, they will keep you warm if they get wet. Unfortunately, synthetic sleeping bags do not have a good weight-to-warmth ratio. A down bag with the same comfort rating will weigh much less and pack much smaller. Synthetic bags will also have a shorter lifespan than down bags. Over time, as you use a synthetic sleeping bag, the insulation layer inside will compress, affecting the bag's insulation properties. Loft, or fluffiness, is needed to trap heat to keep you warm. With a compressed insulation layer inside your synthetic bag, it will no longer keep you warm at the specified temperature ratings. In other words, synthetic insulation degrades with use. For instance, if the comfort rating of a sleeping bag is 5 degrees Celsius when you first buy it, after much use and compression of the insulation layer, the new rating may become 12 degrees Celsius. As a result, your sleeping bag will no longer keep you warm at 5 degrees Celsius, and you will need an additional insulation layer to keep you warm, like a blanket. Perhaps packing a 4-season sleeping bag instead of a 3-season one may be the way to go. At first, you may feel uncomfortable. However, once the insulation inside is compressed, the temperature rating may become accurate.
[2] Down - Down sleeping bags use real bird feathers as insulation, whereas synthetic sleeping bags use an artificial filling. Unfortunately, some humans can be allergic to down feathers. If you are one of these humans, you have no choice but to pick a synthetic sleeping bag. Down bags have an excellent weight-to-warmth ratio, making them just as effective as their synthetic counterparts, but at a lighter weight. They can also compress and pack down small, taking up less room in a pack. Note: anything in the outdoor industry marketed as "lightweight" or "ultralightweight" will be costly, and down sleeping bags can be very expensive. They will, however, have a longer lifespan than synthetic bags if taken care of. If a down sleeping bag gets wet, it will no longer keep you warm, unlike a synthetic bag, which dries quicker too. This is because water clams up the feathers inside, causing the down bag to lose its insulation value. Luckily for you humans, there has been a technological intervention when it comes to down sleeping bags. Hydrophobic down is now widely used by many manufacturers. They simply cover the feathers with a water-repellent coating, absorbing 70% less moisture than untreated feathers and drying three times faster. One thing I personally hate about down sleeping bags is that down feathers can sometimes leak out of the outer shell of the sleeping bag.
Down insulation further explained -
The image above was created by me in Microsoft Paint 3D.
How warm a down sleeping bag is depends on how much air the down feathers are able to trap. The down has to be fluffy to be effective. The two things to focus on when selecting a down bag are fill power and fill weight.
Fill power - Fill power is a number that measures the quality of the down. The higher the fill power number, the fluffier the down is.
Fill weight - Fill weight is the amount of down inside a sleeping bag and is measured in grams.
Above, I have presented a diagram so that you can better understand fill power and fill weight. As you can see, an 850-fill power feather is much fluffier than a 500-fill power feather. 40 grams of 850-fill power feathers have filled container B all the way. On the other hand, 40 grams of 500-fill power feathers only filled container A about halfway. Both containers are identical. Though both containers (A & B) are filled with the same amount of feathers (40g each), the 850-fill power feathers filled the whole container because of their fluffiness and, as a result, will provide more insulation. To fill container A all the way (rhyme intended), you may need 100 grams of 500-fill power feathers instead of 40 grams. This will increase the overall weight. On the other hand, container B would provide the same amount of insulation at a lighter weight.
Lifespan -
How long a sleeping bag will last will depend on use and how well you store it. If you store a synthetic sleeping bag compressed, it can degrade the insulation inside. Fortunately, with a down sleeping bag, shaking it a couple of times will redistribute the feathers inside evenly, allowing it to regain its loft.
When storing:
- make sure your sleeping bag is completely dry.
- insert it into a storage bag (if you have one).
- store in a cool and dry place.
Sleeping bag shape -
How warm a down sleeping bag is depends on how much air the down feathers are able to trap. The down has to be fluffy to be effective. The two things to focus on when selecting a down bag are fill power and fill weight.
Fill power - Fill power is a number that measures the quality of the down. The higher the fill power number, the fluffier the down is.
Fill weight - Fill weight is the amount of down inside a sleeping bag and is measured in grams.
Above, I have presented a diagram so that you can better understand fill power and fill weight. As you can see, an 850-fill power feather is much fluffier than a 500-fill power feather. 40 grams of 850-fill power feathers have filled container B all the way. On the other hand, 40 grams of 500-fill power feathers only filled container A about halfway. Both containers are identical. Though both containers (A & B) are filled with the same amount of feathers (40g each), the 850-fill power feathers filled the whole container because of their fluffiness and, as a result, will provide more insulation. To fill container A all the way (rhyme intended), you may need 100 grams of 500-fill power feathers instead of 40 grams. This will increase the overall weight. On the other hand, container B would provide the same amount of insulation at a lighter weight.
Lifespan -
How long a sleeping bag will last will depend on use and how well you store it. If you store a synthetic sleeping bag compressed, it can degrade the insulation inside. Fortunately, with a down sleeping bag, shaking it a couple of times will redistribute the feathers inside evenly, allowing it to regain its loft.
When storing:
- make sure your sleeping bag is completely dry.
- insert it into a storage bag (if you have one).
- store in a cool and dry place.
Sleeping bag shape -
Image 1 was taken from the Military Kit website. Image 2 was taken from the Amazon website. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
The shape of the sleeping bag can be another important factor in staying warm. The mummy bag is tapered and will fit closer to the body, keeping you warmer than a rectangular sleeping bag. This is because it will trap heat better as there is less space for air to flow. Unfortunately, this makes the mummy bag restrictive and uncomfortable for many. If you want to tilt to your side, you must move with the bag. On the plus side, mummy-style sleeping bags are likely to be lighter in weight, as there is less material on the bag because of the taper. The main advantage of a rectangular sleeping bag is that it will be more spacious and comfortable, allowing you to move around inside it freely. However, it will not be as effective as a mummy bag at keeping you warm.
Sleeping bag zipper explained -
The shape of the sleeping bag can be another important factor in staying warm. The mummy bag is tapered and will fit closer to the body, keeping you warmer than a rectangular sleeping bag. This is because it will trap heat better as there is less space for air to flow. Unfortunately, this makes the mummy bag restrictive and uncomfortable for many. If you want to tilt to your side, you must move with the bag. On the plus side, mummy-style sleeping bags are likely to be lighter in weight, as there is less material on the bag because of the taper. The main advantage of a rectangular sleeping bag is that it will be more spacious and comfortable, allowing you to move around inside it freely. However, it will not be as effective as a mummy bag at keeping you warm.
Sleeping bag zipper explained -
The image above was taken from Pixabay and is free for commercial use. Clicking on the image will take you to the original image and uploader.
Sleeping bags have a zipper on the left or right sides. If you are right-handed, pick a sleeping bag with a zipper on the left side. If you are left-handed, pick a sleeping bag with a zipper on the right side. Doing so will make zipping and unzipping a sleeping bag easier while lying inside it.
Note: Be careful when using the zipper on a sleeping bag, as it can sometimes get caught on the outer shell. If you use the zipper aggressively, you could damage the sleeping bag.
Sleeping bag liner -
Sleeping bags have a zipper on the left or right sides. If you are right-handed, pick a sleeping bag with a zipper on the left side. If you are left-handed, pick a sleeping bag with a zipper on the right side. Doing so will make zipping and unzipping a sleeping bag easier while lying inside it.
Note: Be careful when using the zipper on a sleeping bag, as it can sometimes get caught on the outer shell. If you use the zipper aggressively, you could damage the sleeping bag.
Sleeping bag liner -
The image above was taken from Pixabay and is free for commercial use. Clicking on the image will take you to the original image and uploader.
A sleeping bag liner is a lightweight cloth separately bought and designed to be placed inside a sleeping bag and slept in. It basically looks like a very large pillowcase. So, why buy one? A sleeping bag liner can become an additional insulation layer and can turn a three-season sleeping bag into a four-season one. It will also keep your sleeping bag clean, as only the liner will need to be removed and washed, extending the bag's life. A liner may feel more comfortable on your body than the inner shell of a sleeping bag. Lastly, on hot nights, you can simply lie inside a sleeping bag liner and keep the sleeping bag for colder nights.
Blanket:
Type of blanket -
A sleeping bag liner is a lightweight cloth separately bought and designed to be placed inside a sleeping bag and slept in. It basically looks like a very large pillowcase. So, why buy one? A sleeping bag liner can become an additional insulation layer and can turn a three-season sleeping bag into a four-season one. It will also keep your sleeping bag clean, as only the liner will need to be removed and washed, extending the bag's life. A liner may feel more comfortable on your body than the inner shell of a sleeping bag. Lastly, on hot nights, you can simply lie inside a sleeping bag liner and keep the sleeping bag for colder nights.
Blanket:
Type of blanket -
The image above was taken from Pixabay and is free for commercial use. Clicking on the image will take you to the original image and uploader.
Though there are many different types of blankets, I recommend selecting a wool blanket for your kit. When I say "wool blanket," I am not talking about a throw blanket, which is a layer of fabric often draped over couches, chairs and beds as a decorative piece. I am talking about an outdoor camping blanket. To find the kind of blanket I am referring to, using key phrases like "wool camping blanket," "military wool blanket," "bushcraft wool blanket," or "survival wool blanket" in a browser should provide you with the appropriate results.
Types of wool -
Many types of wool are used to make wool blankets, like alpaca, cashmere, angora, merino, melton, lambswool, etc. Many websites do not specify what kind of wool is used. From my brief research, most of these wool blankets are usually made from merino wool or lambswool, also known as virgin wool. Blankets marketed as military-style are known to be itchy and smell bad, though this is not the case for every military wool blanket. It is important to do your due diligence before buying. Swiss Link is an online military surplus store that seems to sell good-quality wool blankets at an affordable price. Click here to be redirected to their website.
Note: If you have sensitive skin, I recommend picking a merino wool blanket, though they are known to be expensive.
Wool composition -
Not all wool blankets are made from 100% wool, and the wool content will vary from blanket to blanket. Blankets made from 100% wool will be warmer and more expensive than those that are not. On the other hand, wool blankets with a mixed composition will be more durable and more affordable. I personally recommend a blanket with at least 80% wool content, also known as an 80/20 blend. This means the wool blanket is made from 80% wool and 20% synthetic fibers, usually nylon or polyester. Even choosing a 90/10 blend will be a great choice, though I recommend avoiding a 70/30 blend and below if you can.
Note: The lower the wool percentage, the less warm the blanket.
Wool blankets briefly explained -
A loosely woven blanket will have more loft to it and be fluffier, making it warmer as it is able to trap more heat than a tightly woven blanket. A tightly woven blanket, on the other hand, will be flatter and thinner, meaning it will not be as warm, though it will be more durable.
Dimensions -
Such blankets will typically measure 60 by 90 inches and weigh around 2kg, though this can vary depending on the quality.
Advantages of wool -
But why wool?
- Durable - Wool can withstand being bent 20,000 times without breaking, compared to 3000 bends for cotton and 2000 for silk. It will last for many years if taken care of.
- Resists water - Wool naturally contains lanolin oil, which is produced by the sheep from which it is harvested. As a result, wool can resist a light shower of rain. In addition, wool fibers will absorb 20-30% of their weight in water before water leaks through.
- Resists flame - Wool is naturally flame-resistant. The casual sparks from a campfire will bounce off your wool blanket with no problem.
- Antibacterial & antimicrobial - It is often said that wool is antibacterial (obstructs the growth of bacteria) and antimicrobial (kills or inhibits the growth of microorganisms). This means your wool blanket is self-cleaning and will not need to be washed as often.
- Good insulator - Wool will keep you warm even after it gets wet, as it retains 80% of its insulating value when wet.
Now that I have gotten all this information out of the way, I will present some of the ways a wool blanket can be used in a bug-out situation.
How to use your wool blanket -
Though there are many different types of blankets, I recommend selecting a wool blanket for your kit. When I say "wool blanket," I am not talking about a throw blanket, which is a layer of fabric often draped over couches, chairs and beds as a decorative piece. I am talking about an outdoor camping blanket. To find the kind of blanket I am referring to, using key phrases like "wool camping blanket," "military wool blanket," "bushcraft wool blanket," or "survival wool blanket" in a browser should provide you with the appropriate results.
Types of wool -
Many types of wool are used to make wool blankets, like alpaca, cashmere, angora, merino, melton, lambswool, etc. Many websites do not specify what kind of wool is used. From my brief research, most of these wool blankets are usually made from merino wool or lambswool, also known as virgin wool. Blankets marketed as military-style are known to be itchy and smell bad, though this is not the case for every military wool blanket. It is important to do your due diligence before buying. Swiss Link is an online military surplus store that seems to sell good-quality wool blankets at an affordable price. Click here to be redirected to their website.
Note: If you have sensitive skin, I recommend picking a merino wool blanket, though they are known to be expensive.
Wool composition -
Not all wool blankets are made from 100% wool, and the wool content will vary from blanket to blanket. Blankets made from 100% wool will be warmer and more expensive than those that are not. On the other hand, wool blankets with a mixed composition will be more durable and more affordable. I personally recommend a blanket with at least 80% wool content, also known as an 80/20 blend. This means the wool blanket is made from 80% wool and 20% synthetic fibers, usually nylon or polyester. Even choosing a 90/10 blend will be a great choice, though I recommend avoiding a 70/30 blend and below if you can.
Note: The lower the wool percentage, the less warm the blanket.
Wool blankets briefly explained -
A loosely woven blanket will have more loft to it and be fluffier, making it warmer as it is able to trap more heat than a tightly woven blanket. A tightly woven blanket, on the other hand, will be flatter and thinner, meaning it will not be as warm, though it will be more durable.
Dimensions -
Such blankets will typically measure 60 by 90 inches and weigh around 2kg, though this can vary depending on the quality.
Advantages of wool -
But why wool?
- Durable - Wool can withstand being bent 20,000 times without breaking, compared to 3000 bends for cotton and 2000 for silk. It will last for many years if taken care of.
- Resists water - Wool naturally contains lanolin oil, which is produced by the sheep from which it is harvested. As a result, wool can resist a light shower of rain. In addition, wool fibers will absorb 20-30% of their weight in water before water leaks through.
- Resists flame - Wool is naturally flame-resistant. The casual sparks from a campfire will bounce off your wool blanket with no problem.
- Antibacterial & antimicrobial - It is often said that wool is antibacterial (obstructs the growth of bacteria) and antimicrobial (kills or inhibits the growth of microorganisms). This means your wool blanket is self-cleaning and will not need to be washed as often.
- Good insulator - Wool will keep you warm even after it gets wet, as it retains 80% of its insulating value when wet.
Now that I have gotten all this information out of the way, I will present some of the ways a wool blanket can be used in a bug-out situation.
How to use your wool blanket -
The image above was taken from Pixabay and is free for commercial use. Clicking on the image will take you to the original image and uploader.
A wool blanket can be taken inside a sleeping bag to increase insulation. Other than that, it can be wrapped around you or worn as a cloak on colder days.
A wool blanket can be taken inside a sleeping bag to increase insulation. Other than that, it can be wrapped around you or worn as a cloak on colder days.
The images above were created by me in Microsoft Paint 3D. I have used two images from Pixabay to create them. Click here for image 1. Click here for image 2.
The outer shell of a sleeping bag is usually made from nylon or polyester, making it flammable. If you decide to sleep near a campfire, the immense heat and sparks from the fire can melt or burn holes in your sleeping bag. If this happens, it may render your sleeping bag useless, especially if it is a down bag. Draping a wool blanket over the sleeping bag will protect it from the campfire and increase insulation at the same time.
The outer shell of a sleeping bag is usually made from nylon or polyester, making it flammable. If you decide to sleep near a campfire, the immense heat and sparks from the fire can melt or burn holes in your sleeping bag. If this happens, it may render your sleeping bag useless, especially if it is a down bag. Draping a wool blanket over the sleeping bag will protect it from the campfire and increase insulation at the same time.
The Image above is a screenshot taken from Coalcracker Bushcraft's YouTube video. It is used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on the image will take you to the original video.
Furthermore, if your sleeping bag were to fail in the field, a wool blanket can be used as a makeshift sleeping bag. Note: Using a wool blanket as a sleeping bag will not be enough to keep you warm. You will need to build a long fire beside you to ensure a comfortable night's sleep.
Washing wool -
Furthermore, if your sleeping bag were to fail in the field, a wool blanket can be used as a makeshift sleeping bag. Note: Using a wool blanket as a sleeping bag will not be enough to keep you warm. You will need to build a long fire beside you to ensure a comfortable night's sleep.
Washing wool -
The images above were taken from Pixabay and are free for commercial use. Clicking on each image will take you to the original image and uploader.
You should not wash your wool blanket as frequently, as wool can be delicate. Spot-cleaning should do the trick a lot of the time, though there will come a time when you will want to wash it. To wash a wool blanket in the field, all you have to do is submerge the blanket under water, gently squeeze the excess water, and hang it on a ridgeline to dry out. That's it. Click here to watch Mitch's YouTube video regarding this.
The cover setup -
You should not wash your wool blanket as frequently, as wool can be delicate. Spot-cleaning should do the trick a lot of the time, though there will come a time when you will want to wash it. To wash a wool blanket in the field, all you have to do is submerge the blanket under water, gently squeeze the excess water, and hang it on a ridgeline to dry out. That's it. Click here to watch Mitch's YouTube video regarding this.
The cover setup -
The image above was created by me in Microsoft Paint 3D.
Above, I have created an illustration so that you understand how your 5-piece sleep system will function together and the order in which to set it up.
1) setup tarp.
2) place groundsheet under the tarp.
3) place sleeping mat on top of the groundsheet.
4) place sleeping bag on top of the sleeping mat.
5) The wool blanket can be taken inside the sleeping bag or draped over the sleeping bag.
The long-term cover setup -
Above, I have created an illustration so that you understand how your 5-piece sleep system will function together and the order in which to set it up.
1) setup tarp.
2) place groundsheet under the tarp.
3) place sleeping mat on top of the groundsheet.
4) place sleeping bag on top of the sleeping mat.
5) The wool blanket can be taken inside the sleeping bag or draped over the sleeping bag.
The long-term cover setup -
The Images above are screenshots taken from Survival Lilly's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
When it comes to a more long-term setup, creating a lean-to structure and a raised platform to sleep on, like in image 1, will be the way to go. Your tarp can be incorporated into this build to make the lean-to structure waterproof. Your sleeping gear can be set up on the raised platform instead of the ground. A windshield can also be created from logs around the structure to block the wind, similar to image 2.
When it comes to a more long-term setup, creating a lean-to structure and a raised platform to sleep on, like in image 1, will be the way to go. Your tarp can be incorporated into this build to make the lean-to structure waterproof. Your sleeping gear can be set up on the raised platform instead of the ground. A windshield can also be created from logs around the structure to block the wind, similar to image 2.
