CHAPTER VII
In this chapter, I will discuss equipment that will help you maintain your cutting tools so that they continue to work as intended and have a long life. I will also discuss other "maintenance" items that will assist you in the field.
In this chapter, I will discuss equipment that will help you maintain your cutting tools so that they continue to work as intended and have a long life. I will also discuss other "maintenance" items that will assist you in the field.
The images above were taken from Pixabay and are free for commercial use. Clicking on each image will take you to the original image and uploader.
Cutting tools will not remain sharp forever and will eventually become dull. You need a way to sharpen the edges of your cutting tools regularly. I want to propose sharpening stones as a solution.
Sharpening stones:
Sharpening stones explained -
Cutting tools will not remain sharp forever and will eventually become dull. You need a way to sharpen the edges of your cutting tools regularly. I want to propose sharpening stones as a solution.
Sharpening stones:
Sharpening stones explained -
The images above were taken by me from my smartphone.
There are three different grades of sharpening stones: coarse, medium and fine. As their names should suggest, coarse stones are rough, fine stones are smooth, and medium stones are in between rough and smooth. The grit number of a stone determines its grade. The lower the grit number, the coarser the stone. The higher the grit number, the finer the stone. For instance, a 120-grit stone will be considered a coarse stone, whereas a 5000-grit stone will be considered a fine one. A stone with a rating between 800-1000 grit will fall into the medium category. Each stone has a different job, which is why I believe you should carry all three grades as part of your kit. Below, I will discuss each grade and its purpose.
There are three different grades of sharpening stones: coarse, medium and fine. As their names should suggest, coarse stones are rough, fine stones are smooth, and medium stones are in between rough and smooth. The grit number of a stone determines its grade. The lower the grit number, the coarser the stone. The higher the grit number, the finer the stone. For instance, a 120-grit stone will be considered a coarse stone, whereas a 5000-grit stone will be considered a fine one. A stone with a rating between 800-1000 grit will fall into the medium category. Each stone has a different job, which is why I believe you should carry all three grades as part of your kit. Below, I will discuss each grade and its purpose.
The Images above are screenshots taken from Burrfection's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
[1] coarse grit - Though all sharpening stones are abrasive to some degree and capable of removing metal, a coarse stone will remove a lot of metal quickly. As a result, you do not want to take your cutting tools to a coarse stone if you do not have to, as removing excess metal from your tools will shorten their lives. A coarse stone is seen as a "repair" stone and is mainly used to repair a damaged cutting edge, as seen in the images above. Besides repairing, a coarse stone can be used to touch up a knife's 90-degree spine and other tools on your multitool, like the reamer and scissors.
[2] Medium grit - If your cutting tools ever get to the point where they no longer cut, a medium-grit stone will allow you to resharpen them so they can cut again. You should never let your cutting tools become dull and should regularly hone them with a fine-grit stone. However, I still recommend carrying a medium-grit stone in case you forget to hone your tools. In addition, getting a razor-sharp edge is a multi-step progression. For instance, directly jumping from a coarse-grit to a super-fine-grit stone will not give you the best results. Instead, going from a coarse-grit to a medium-grit to a fine-grit stone will provide you with better results.
[3] Fine grit - A fine-grit stone will keep your cutting tools razor-sharp. This is the stone you should regularly use to refine your tools, as it will remove the least amount of metal while giving you a razor-sharp edge.
Note: A coarse stone is used for repairing, a medium-grit stone is used for resharpening, and a fine-grit stone is used for refining/honing.
Strop explained -
[4] Strop - Although a fine-grit stone will make your cutting tool razor-sharp, immediately gliding the edge over a strop will take it to the next level and make it super-duper-razor-sharp. A strop is just a piece of leather, usually glued to a flat piece of wood. Some woodsmen even use their leather belts to strop their knives. So what exactly does a strop do? When using sharpening stones, burr or tiny metal particles can remain attached to the cutting edge, negatively affecting the blade's cutting performance. Gliding your cutting tool over a strop a few times will remove the burr, giving you a smooth, sharp edge. A strop is not needed, as the burr will come off by itself as you use the tool. However, I recommend including a strop as part of your kit because it will refine your cutting tools while removing the least amount of metal, less than a fine-grit stone.
[1] coarse grit - Though all sharpening stones are abrasive to some degree and capable of removing metal, a coarse stone will remove a lot of metal quickly. As a result, you do not want to take your cutting tools to a coarse stone if you do not have to, as removing excess metal from your tools will shorten their lives. A coarse stone is seen as a "repair" stone and is mainly used to repair a damaged cutting edge, as seen in the images above. Besides repairing, a coarse stone can be used to touch up a knife's 90-degree spine and other tools on your multitool, like the reamer and scissors.
[2] Medium grit - If your cutting tools ever get to the point where they no longer cut, a medium-grit stone will allow you to resharpen them so they can cut again. You should never let your cutting tools become dull and should regularly hone them with a fine-grit stone. However, I still recommend carrying a medium-grit stone in case you forget to hone your tools. In addition, getting a razor-sharp edge is a multi-step progression. For instance, directly jumping from a coarse-grit to a super-fine-grit stone will not give you the best results. Instead, going from a coarse-grit to a medium-grit to a fine-grit stone will provide you with better results.
[3] Fine grit - A fine-grit stone will keep your cutting tools razor-sharp. This is the stone you should regularly use to refine your tools, as it will remove the least amount of metal while giving you a razor-sharp edge.
Note: A coarse stone is used for repairing, a medium-grit stone is used for resharpening, and a fine-grit stone is used for refining/honing.
Strop explained -
[4] Strop - Although a fine-grit stone will make your cutting tool razor-sharp, immediately gliding the edge over a strop will take it to the next level and make it super-duper-razor-sharp. A strop is just a piece of leather, usually glued to a flat piece of wood. Some woodsmen even use their leather belts to strop their knives. So what exactly does a strop do? When using sharpening stones, burr or tiny metal particles can remain attached to the cutting edge, negatively affecting the blade's cutting performance. Gliding your cutting tool over a strop a few times will remove the burr, giving you a smooth, sharp edge. A strop is not needed, as the burr will come off by itself as you use the tool. However, I recommend including a strop as part of your kit because it will refine your cutting tools while removing the least amount of metal, less than a fine-grit stone.
The images above were taken by me from my smartphone.
A strop can be used plain or loaded with a polishing compound. A plain strop will be suitable for slight refinement by removing a burr, as discussed above. A loaded strop, on the other hand, can refine your cutting tool's edge to surgical sharpness. A "loaded" strop is a strop with some polishing compound applied to it. A polishing compound is a block of wax containing abrasive particles capable of removing microscopic particles from metal. A loaded strop is essentially a super-duper-fine-grit sharpening stone. Similar to sharpening stones, polishing compounds also come in different grades. The color of the compound will tell you how abrasive it is. The green-colored polishing compound is commonly used by humans who enjoy wood carving and will be sufficient for our refining needs.
Note: Not all polishing compounds are created equal, so do your research before purchasing. If you are curious, I personally use the Dialux brand.
Alternative use -
A strop can be used plain or loaded with a polishing compound. A plain strop will be suitable for slight refinement by removing a burr, as discussed above. A loaded strop, on the other hand, can refine your cutting tool's edge to surgical sharpness. A "loaded" strop is a strop with some polishing compound applied to it. A polishing compound is a block of wax containing abrasive particles capable of removing microscopic particles from metal. A loaded strop is essentially a super-duper-fine-grit sharpening stone. Similar to sharpening stones, polishing compounds also come in different grades. The color of the compound will tell you how abrasive it is. The green-colored polishing compound is commonly used by humans who enjoy wood carving and will be sufficient for our refining needs.
Note: Not all polishing compounds are created equal, so do your research before purchasing. If you are curious, I personally use the Dialux brand.
Alternative use -
The images above were taken by me from my smartphone.
The abrasive particles in the compound should be able to remove a light layer of rust by gliding the loaded strop back and forth on a rusted surface.
Sharpening explained -
The abrasive particles in the compound should be able to remove a light layer of rust by gliding the loaded strop back and forth on a rusted surface.
Sharpening explained -
The images above were taken by me from my smartphone.
When you glide a cutting tool across a sharpening stone, the stone removes metal from it.
When you glide a cutting tool across a sharpening stone, the stone removes metal from it.
The image above was created by me in Microsoft Paint 3D.
Your cutting tools will become thicker behind the edge and begin losing their cutting prowess the more they are sharpened. Though this will take years to happen, using the appropriate stones right from the beginning will prolong their cutting ability and lifespan. A fine-grit stone will remove the least amount of metal of the three grades of sharpening stones, and a strop will remove even less.
Why carry a fine-grit stone if a strop can keep the cutting tools razor-sharp while removing less metal? This is because solely stropping your cutting tool will round its edge, negatively affecting the tool's cutting performance. This will, however, happen over time. Honing your cutting tools on a fine-grit stone and then finishing on a strop will prevent the cutting edge from rounding while giving you an extremely sharp edge.
The two kinds of sharpening stones -
Your cutting tools will become thicker behind the edge and begin losing their cutting prowess the more they are sharpened. Though this will take years to happen, using the appropriate stones right from the beginning will prolong their cutting ability and lifespan. A fine-grit stone will remove the least amount of metal of the three grades of sharpening stones, and a strop will remove even less.
Why carry a fine-grit stone if a strop can keep the cutting tools razor-sharp while removing less metal? This is because solely stropping your cutting tool will round its edge, negatively affecting the tool's cutting performance. This will, however, happen over time. Honing your cutting tools on a fine-grit stone and then finishing on a strop will prevent the cutting edge from rounding while giving you an extremely sharp edge.
The two kinds of sharpening stones -
The images above were taken from Pixabay and are free for commercial use. Clicking on each image will take you to the original image and uploader.
There are two kinds of sharpening stones: synthetic and natural. Synthetic stones are man-made from materials like aluminum oxide, silicon carbide, etc. Natural stones, on the other hand, occur naturally and are quarried. They are created from rocks like novaculite. Does it really matter if your stones are synthetic or natural?
The wear on sharpening stones -
There are two kinds of sharpening stones: synthetic and natural. Synthetic stones are man-made from materials like aluminum oxide, silicon carbide, etc. Natural stones, on the other hand, occur naturally and are quarried. They are created from rocks like novaculite. Does it really matter if your stones are synthetic or natural?
The wear on sharpening stones -
The image above was created by me in Microsoft Paint 3D.
In my opinion, yes, it does. This is mainly because sharpening stones begin to wear and become uneven with extended use. This is another reason why I do not recommend that your cutting tools be made from harder, premium steels, as they would wear the stones down quicker.
In my opinion, yes, it does. This is mainly because sharpening stones begin to wear and become uneven with extended use. This is another reason why I do not recommend that your cutting tools be made from harder, premium steels, as they would wear the stones down quicker.
The Images above are screenshots taken from Kyle Noseworthy's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on each image will take you to the original video.
Fortunately, uneven-sharpening stones can be made flat again. There are many ways in which this can be achieved. In the images above, Kyle grinds his uneven stone back and forth on coarse sandpaper to flatten it. Unfortunately, flattening, also known as lapping, can be a time-consuming process, depending on how uneven the stone has become. It will also remove an awful lot of material from the sharpening stone, shortening its life.
Fortunately, uneven-sharpening stones can be made flat again. There are many ways in which this can be achieved. In the images above, Kyle grinds his uneven stone back and forth on coarse sandpaper to flatten it. Unfortunately, flattening, also known as lapping, can be a time-consuming process, depending on how uneven the stone has become. It will also remove an awful lot of material from the sharpening stone, shortening its life.
The Images above are screenshots taken from CarterCutlery's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on each image will take you to the original video.
Instead of removing all that material, you can simply use the stone accordingly. If your stone develops a dip and is no longer fully flat, you can use the high spots on the stone to resharpen your tool while avoiding uneven areas. Before getting to this stage, using the whole surface of a stone equally from the day you buy it will prevent an uneven surface from forming sooner.
Note: Softer stones will wear more quickly and develop an uneven surface sooner than harder stones. Natural stones tend to be softer than synthetic stones.
Synthetic vs Natural stones -
Instead of removing all that material, you can simply use the stone accordingly. If your stone develops a dip and is no longer fully flat, you can use the high spots on the stone to resharpen your tool while avoiding uneven areas. Before getting to this stage, using the whole surface of a stone equally from the day you buy it will prevent an uneven surface from forming sooner.
Note: Softer stones will wear more quickly and develop an uneven surface sooner than harder stones. Natural stones tend to be softer than synthetic stones.
Synthetic vs Natural stones -
The Image above is a screenshot taken from Korin Knives's YouTube video. It is used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on the image will take you to the original video.
Synthetic stones have a consistent grain, which will give you a consistent and even edge. Natural stones, on the other hand, have an inconsistent grain, which will give you an inconsistent and toothy edge. This means a blade sharpened on a synthetic stone will go dull altogether, whereas a blade sharpened on a natural stone will have some bite left in certain parts of the edge, allowing it to still cut. From the YouTube channel Korin Knives, Vincent explains this in a video. Clicking on the image above will take you there.
Note: Natural stones are not as aggressive as synthetic stones, meaning they will not cut metal as fast. As a result, refining a cutting edge with a natural stone will take longer, especially if the steel is harder.
Sharpening stone recommendations -
Synthetic stones have a consistent grain, which will give you a consistent and even edge. Natural stones, on the other hand, have an inconsistent grain, which will give you an inconsistent and toothy edge. This means a blade sharpened on a synthetic stone will go dull altogether, whereas a blade sharpened on a natural stone will have some bite left in certain parts of the edge, allowing it to still cut. From the YouTube channel Korin Knives, Vincent explains this in a video. Clicking on the image above will take you there.
Note: Natural stones are not as aggressive as synthetic stones, meaning they will not cut metal as fast. As a result, refining a cutting edge with a natural stone will take longer, especially if the steel is harder.
Sharpening stone recommendations -
Image 1 was taken from the Spyderco website. Image 2 was taken from the HEINNIE HAYNES website. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
I recommend a synthetic stone made from alumina ceramic (synthetic sapphires) because it is extremely hard and wear-resistant. It will show little to no wear and remain relatively flat over time. I can personally attest to this, as I have been using my synthetic sapphire stone for years, and it is still flat to this day. I recommend going with either Spyderco's "double stuff" or Fallkniven's "CC4". Both stones are pocket-size and offer a medium and a fine side. This means you will have to buy a coarse stone separately to complete your set.
Coarse sharpening stones -
I recommend a synthetic stone made from alumina ceramic (synthetic sapphires) because it is extremely hard and wear-resistant. It will show little to no wear and remain relatively flat over time. I can personally attest to this, as I have been using my synthetic sapphire stone for years, and it is still flat to this day. I recommend going with either Spyderco's "double stuff" or Fallkniven's "CC4". Both stones are pocket-size and offer a medium and a fine side. This means you will have to buy a coarse stone separately to complete your set.
Coarse sharpening stones -
The images above were taken by me from my smartphone.
Regarding a coarse sharpening stone, I personally have a simple Farrar & Tanner stone made from silicon carbide. Silicon carbide is hard and effective at removing metal. However, it is not as wear-resistant and can wear down quickly.
A diamond stone, on the other hand, can be a good alternative. It is a metal plate affixed with industrial diamonds. Diamond stones are extremely effective at removing metal and are considered some of the best, especially if you want major work done on harder steels. However, not all diamond stones are created equal, as some will wear down faster than others. For instance, the diamond plate on Fallkniven's "DC4" wears down after several uses.
Note: Higher-quality and longer-lasting diamond stones will be more expensive.
Coarse stone alternative -
Regarding a coarse sharpening stone, I personally have a simple Farrar & Tanner stone made from silicon carbide. Silicon carbide is hard and effective at removing metal. However, it is not as wear-resistant and can wear down quickly.
A diamond stone, on the other hand, can be a good alternative. It is a metal plate affixed with industrial diamonds. Diamond stones are extremely effective at removing metal and are considered some of the best, especially if you want major work done on harder steels. However, not all diamond stones are created equal, as some will wear down faster than others. For instance, the diamond plate on Fallkniven's "DC4" wears down after several uses.
Note: Higher-quality and longer-lasting diamond stones will be more expensive.
Coarse stone alternative -
The Images above are screenshots taken from Zach Hevner's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on any image will take you to the original video.
Smooth materials will be scarce, but coarse materials are abundant in the field. A simple stone from the ground can be used to sharpen your cutting tools. If you cannot find a flat stone, it can be made flat by vigorously grinding it against another relatively flat stone. Though a time-consuming process, it can be done as a last resort.
Note: Anything harder than your tool's steel will be able to remove metal from it.
Lubrication -
Smooth materials will be scarce, but coarse materials are abundant in the field. A simple stone from the ground can be used to sharpen your cutting tools. If you cannot find a flat stone, it can be made flat by vigorously grinding it against another relatively flat stone. Though a time-consuming process, it can be done as a last resort.
Note: Anything harder than your tool's steel will be able to remove metal from it.
Lubrication -
The images above were taken from Pixabay and are free for commercial use. Clicking on each image will take you to the original image and uploader.
Sharpening stones are often used with some sort of lubricant. Water and oil are the two main lubricants used, though I have seen humans use their own saliva as well (yum). A lubricant is applied to a stone to prevent metal particles, which are being removed from the cutting tool, from clogging the stone's pores. If the pores of a stone get filled with metal shavings, the stone will no longer remove metal as intended. Considering that I am discussing a long-term bug-out situation, I recommend avoiding oil, as water will be easier to come by in the field. It is often said that once you use honing oil on a stone, you cannot switch to water, as the oil will remain inside the stone and prevent water from permeating it. Though this is true, technically, you can still switch to water if you so desire. Click here to watch a video concerning this.
Some stones are marketed as "oil stones," while others are marketed as "water stones." As a result, you may think oil stones should be used with only oil and water stones with only water. However, this is not necessarily the case. Both oil and water stones can be used with either oil or water. Variables like the composition of the stone can play a role in determining which lubricant will be more effective for a particular stone. It would be wise to contact the manufacturer if unsure, though water will always be a safe bet as it will eventually evaporate from the stone.
How I use my sharpening stones -
Sharpening stones are often used with some sort of lubricant. Water and oil are the two main lubricants used, though I have seen humans use their own saliva as well (yum). A lubricant is applied to a stone to prevent metal particles, which are being removed from the cutting tool, from clogging the stone's pores. If the pores of a stone get filled with metal shavings, the stone will no longer remove metal as intended. Considering that I am discussing a long-term bug-out situation, I recommend avoiding oil, as water will be easier to come by in the field. It is often said that once you use honing oil on a stone, you cannot switch to water, as the oil will remain inside the stone and prevent water from permeating it. Though this is true, technically, you can still switch to water if you so desire. Click here to watch a video concerning this.
Some stones are marketed as "oil stones," while others are marketed as "water stones." As a result, you may think oil stones should be used with only oil and water stones with only water. However, this is not necessarily the case. Both oil and water stones can be used with either oil or water. Variables like the composition of the stone can play a role in determining which lubricant will be more effective for a particular stone. It would be wise to contact the manufacturer if unsure, though water will always be a safe bet as it will eventually evaporate from the stone.
How I use my sharpening stones -
The images above were taken by me from my smartphone.
I personally do not use a lubricant with my sharpening stones, as it is much easier to use them dry. This does not mean my sharpening stones will never get clogged; they will. Once the stone's pores fill up and the stone no longer effectively removes metal, I use a damp cloth to unclog the stone. Though stones can be used without a lubricant, my research indicates that using a lubricant will produce better results than using a stone dry. Regardless, I get my knives very sharp without one. The two stones I recommended above can be used with or without a lubricant, making them ideal for a long-term kit.
Note: If you use water on your stone, let it dry out before storing it.
Break-in period -
I personally do not use a lubricant with my sharpening stones, as it is much easier to use them dry. This does not mean my sharpening stones will never get clogged; they will. Once the stone's pores fill up and the stone no longer effectively removes metal, I use a damp cloth to unclog the stone. Though stones can be used without a lubricant, my research indicates that using a lubricant will produce better results than using a stone dry. Regardless, I get my knives very sharp without one. The two stones I recommended above can be used with or without a lubricant, making them ideal for a long-term kit.
Note: If you use water on your stone, let it dry out before storing it.
Break-in period -
The image above was taken by me from my smartphone.
Sharpening stones will have a break-in period. All sharpening stones start out rough, even the fine ones. When you first use your stone, it may not feel like the right grit. Over time, the stone will smooth out the more you use it, and its coarseness will adjust accordingly.
Note: Generic, low-quality sharpening stones sold on sites like Amazon will smooth out so much that they will stop removing metal altogether. Avoid cheap-quality stones and save your money.
Rounding the edges -
Sharpening stones will have a break-in period. All sharpening stones start out rough, even the fine ones. When you first use your stone, it may not feel like the right grit. Over time, the stone will smooth out the more you use it, and its coarseness will adjust accordingly.
Note: Generic, low-quality sharpening stones sold on sites like Amazon will smooth out so much that they will stop removing metal altogether. Avoid cheap-quality stones and save your money.
Rounding the edges -
The images above were taken by me from my smartphone.
Stones that have sharp edges on them are prone to chipping. Rounding the edges will make the stone more durable, as shown in image 2. In image 1, I used a broken piece of another sharpening stone to round off the edges of my Farrar & Tanner stone. You can use anything hard to achieve this.
Axe stone -
Stones that have sharp edges on them are prone to chipping. Rounding the edges will make the stone more durable, as shown in image 2. In image 1, I used a broken piece of another sharpening stone to round off the edges of my Farrar & Tanner stone. You can use anything hard to achieve this.
Axe stone -
The images above were taken from the Amazon website. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
You can use the same sharpening stones for all your cutting tools. However, I personally prefer to keep an axe stone as part of my kit for my axe. Axes do not need to be as sharp as knives, which is why axe stones tend to be on the coarse side. They will put a working edge on your axe. If you want to refine the edge further, a medium-grit stone will be sufficient for an axe.
Note: Carrying an axe stone will give you an additional coarse stone.
The role of each stone summarized -
You can use the same sharpening stones for all your cutting tools. However, I personally prefer to keep an axe stone as part of my kit for my axe. Axes do not need to be as sharp as knives, which is why axe stones tend to be on the coarse side. They will put a working edge on your axe. If you want to refine the edge further, a medium-grit stone will be sufficient for an axe.
Note: Carrying an axe stone will give you an additional coarse stone.
The role of each stone summarized -
The image above was created by me in Microsoft Paint 3D.
Regularly hone your cutting tools with the appropriate stones. Do not let them get dull, as that will require you to remove a lot more metal from them, shortening their life.
Serrations -
Regularly hone your cutting tools with the appropriate stones. Do not let them get dull, as that will require you to remove a lot more metal from them, shortening their life.
Serrations -
The Images above are screenshots taken from Schrade Knives's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on any image will take you to the original video.
Though I recommend against serrated knives, I want to briefly mention how you would sharpen them. Serrations cannot be properly sharpened with sharpening stones or even a strop. You will need a tapered sharpening rod designed specifically for serrated knives, as seen in image 2. Clicking on any image from above will take you to the Schrade Knives YouTube video demonstrating this.
Pull through sharpeners -
Though I recommend against serrated knives, I want to briefly mention how you would sharpen them. Serrations cannot be properly sharpened with sharpening stones or even a strop. You will need a tapered sharpening rod designed specifically for serrated knives, as seen in image 2. Clicking on any image from above will take you to the Schrade Knives YouTube video demonstrating this.
Pull through sharpeners -
The images above were taken by me from my smartphone.
Other than sharpening stones, strops and tapered rods, pull-through sharpeners also exist. Pull-through sharpeners will have two main notches: a coarse carbide notch and a smooth ceramic one. These notches are designed for a knife's blade to be inserted. Once in, pulling the knife through will remove metal and sharpen it. The coarse carbide notch is overly aggressive and will remove excessive amounts of metal while giving you a mediocre cutting edge. In addition, the sharpening angles on such sharpeners are fixed, which can be a good thing, at least initially. However, as you repeatedly sharpen, hone and repair a cutting edge, it will continually change. The fixed angles on a pull-through sharpener will not be able to adjust to the forever-changing edge of your tools. As a result, sharpening stones are a much better solution, though they have a bigger learning curve.
Note: Pull-through sharpeners will ruin knife grinds like the true-scandi, convex and chisel-ground.
Honorable mention(1) -
Other than sharpening stones, strops and tapered rods, pull-through sharpeners also exist. Pull-through sharpeners will have two main notches: a coarse carbide notch and a smooth ceramic one. These notches are designed for a knife's blade to be inserted. Once in, pulling the knife through will remove metal and sharpen it. The coarse carbide notch is overly aggressive and will remove excessive amounts of metal while giving you a mediocre cutting edge. In addition, the sharpening angles on such sharpeners are fixed, which can be a good thing, at least initially. However, as you repeatedly sharpen, hone and repair a cutting edge, it will continually change. The fixed angles on a pull-through sharpener will not be able to adjust to the forever-changing edge of your tools. As a result, sharpening stones are a much better solution, though they have a bigger learning curve.
Note: Pull-through sharpeners will ruin knife grinds like the true-scandi, convex and chisel-ground.
Honorable mention(1) -
The images above were taken by me from my smartphone.
Before I move on, I want to mention the existence of a ceramic rod. It is an affordable and easy way to hone and maintain the edges of your cutting tools. From personal experience, ceramic rods can be somewhat inconsistent in their coarseness, as some can be smoother than others. Their coarseness will adjust with regular use.
[2] Note: You could even use the bottom part of a ceramic mug to touch up a knife.
Lubricants:
Before I move on, I want to mention the existence of a ceramic rod. It is an affordable and easy way to hone and maintain the edges of your cutting tools. From personal experience, ceramic rods can be somewhat inconsistent in their coarseness, as some can be smoother than others. Their coarseness will adjust with regular use.
[2] Note: You could even use the bottom part of a ceramic mug to touch up a knife.
Lubricants:
The images above were taken from the Amazon website. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
As you can see from above, many types of lubricants exist. So, which one to pick?
The purpose of a lubricant -
As you can see from above, many types of lubricants exist. So, which one to pick?
The purpose of a lubricant -
The images above were taken by me from my smartphone.
Before selecting a lubricant, you must know what you need it for and which lubricant will be the most appropriate. Above, I have identified the four components that must be maintained with some sort of lubricant: metal, wood, leather and joints. Metal can rust and corrode, wood can shrink and rot, leather can deteriorate, and joints need to be oiled for fluid opening and closing. These four components must be maintained so that your cutting tools work as intended and last a long time.
Precautions & Tips -
Before I continue, I will list some things you can do to reduce the number of components that must be cared for to make your life easier.
Steel -
Before selecting a lubricant, you must know what you need it for and which lubricant will be the most appropriate. Above, I have identified the four components that must be maintained with some sort of lubricant: metal, wood, leather and joints. Metal can rust and corrode, wood can shrink and rot, leather can deteriorate, and joints need to be oiled for fluid opening and closing. These four components must be maintained so that your cutting tools work as intended and last a long time.
Precautions & Tips -
Before I continue, I will list some things you can do to reduce the number of components that must be cared for to make your life easier.
Steel -
The images above were taken from Pixabay and are free for commercial use. Clicking on each image will take you to the original image and uploader.
[1] Stainless steel - Pick stainless steel where you can. The higher chromium content in stainless steel will competently resist rust, making maintenance easier.
[2] Mirror polish - You can perform a mirror polish on your rust-prone cutting tools, which will deter rust because rust has difficulty forming on a shiny surface.
[3] Wipe down - Always wipe your tools after use.
Wood -
[1] Stainless steel - Pick stainless steel where you can. The higher chromium content in stainless steel will competently resist rust, making maintenance easier.
[2] Mirror polish - You can perform a mirror polish on your rust-prone cutting tools, which will deter rust because rust has difficulty forming on a shiny surface.
[3] Wipe down - Always wipe your tools after use.
Wood -
Images 1 & 3 were taken from Pixabay and are free for commercial use. Image 2 was taken by me from my smartphone. Clicking on images 1 & 2 will take you to the appropriate image and uploader.
[1] Avoid wood - Do not buy tools that have wooden components. For instance, instead of buying an axe with a wooden handle, get one with a plastic handle.
[2] Boiled linseed oil - Regularly applying boiled linseed oil to your wooden components will help them stand up to the outdoor environment.
[3] Improvise with wood - If a wooden component fails, let's say your axe's wooden handle, you can whittle another one out of the abundant supply of wood you will have available to you.
Leather -
[1] Avoid wood - Do not buy tools that have wooden components. For instance, instead of buying an axe with a wooden handle, get one with a plastic handle.
[2] Boiled linseed oil - Regularly applying boiled linseed oil to your wooden components will help them stand up to the outdoor environment.
[3] Improvise with wood - If a wooden component fails, let's say your axe's wooden handle, you can whittle another one out of the abundant supply of wood you will have available to you.
Leather -
The images above were taken from Pixabay and are free for commercial use. Clicking on each image will take you to the original image and uploader.
[1] Avoid leather - Avoid leather as much as you can. For instance, instead of a leather sheath, pick Kydex.
[2] Improvise with wood - If a leather component fails, let's say your axe sheath, improvise one out of wood.
Joints -
[1] Avoid leather - Avoid leather as much as you can. For instance, instead of a leather sheath, pick Kydex.
[2] Improvise with wood - If a leather component fails, let's say your axe sheath, improvise one out of wood.
Joints -
The images above were taken from the Knives and Tools website. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
When it comes to joints, avoid equipment with moving parts as much as possible. For example, instead of a folding saw, pick a pistol-grip saw. Joints are unavoidable for the most part, as there is no way I would recommend ditching a multitool.
The lubricants I carry -
Not all lubricants are compatible with these four components. So, which ones to choose? Instead of going over every lubricant I possibly can, I will briefly cover what I include in my kit so that you can get a rough idea of what to carry.
When it comes to joints, avoid equipment with moving parts as much as possible. For example, instead of a folding saw, pick a pistol-grip saw. Joints are unavoidable for the most part, as there is no way I would recommend ditching a multitool.
The lubricants I carry -
Not all lubricants are compatible with these four components. So, which ones to choose? Instead of going over every lubricant I possibly can, I will briefly cover what I include in my kit so that you can get a rough idea of what to carry.
The images above were taken by me from my smartphone.
I personally carry two lubricants in my kit: beeswax and nano oil. Beeswax is a natural product produced by bees and has multiple uses. This particular beeswax concoction, which I carry inside an airtight container, can be applied to steel, wood and leather. It is made from beeswax and boiled linseed oil. I can apply it to my axe's wooden handle, leather sheath, axe head and other cutting blades.
I personally carry two lubricants in my kit: beeswax and nano oil. Beeswax is a natural product produced by bees and has multiple uses. This particular beeswax concoction, which I carry inside an airtight container, can be applied to steel, wood and leather. It is made from beeswax and boiled linseed oil. I can apply it to my axe's wooden handle, leather sheath, axe head and other cutting blades.
The images above were taken from Pixabay and are free for commercial use. Clicking on each image will take you to the original image and uploader.
Some lubricants are food-safe, and some are not. Cutting tools are going to be used for a wide range of tasks. The same tools you use for wood preparation are the same tools you may use for food preparation. Processing wood with a tool that has a non-food-safe lubricant applied to it is not a big deal. However, it is a big deal when processing food because non-food-safe lubricants are toxic to humans. The beeswax I carry in my kit is not food-safe because it contains boiled linseed oil. Regular linseed oil is food-safe, but not boiled linseed oil. This does not personally bother me, though if it did, there are three things I can do:
1) I could wipe the lubricant off the blade, run it under water, and then take it to the food.
2) I could always carry an additional stainless steel blade dedicated to food preparation.
3) I can choose a food-safe lubricant.
Some lubricants are food-safe, and some are not. Cutting tools are going to be used for a wide range of tasks. The same tools you use for wood preparation are the same tools you may use for food preparation. Processing wood with a tool that has a non-food-safe lubricant applied to it is not a big deal. However, it is a big deal when processing food because non-food-safe lubricants are toxic to humans. The beeswax I carry in my kit is not food-safe because it contains boiled linseed oil. Regular linseed oil is food-safe, but not boiled linseed oil. This does not personally bother me, though if it did, there are three things I can do:
1) I could wipe the lubricant off the blade, run it under water, and then take it to the food.
2) I could always carry an additional stainless steel blade dedicated to food preparation.
3) I can choose a food-safe lubricant.
The images above were taken by me from my smartphone.
The last lubricant I carry is Nano oil (weight 10). It comes in a convenient applicator with a thin stainless needle, allowing me to precisely direct oil into the joints of my multitool. This lubricant is solely for my multitool to ensure it opens and closes as intended.
In total, I carry two lubricants that will adequately take care of steel, wood, leather and joints. You may be wondering if there is a lubricant that can do it all. Sure.
Ballistol -
The last lubricant I carry is Nano oil (weight 10). It comes in a convenient applicator with a thin stainless needle, allowing me to precisely direct oil into the joints of my multitool. This lubricant is solely for my multitool to ensure it opens and closes as intended.
In total, I carry two lubricants that will adequately take care of steel, wood, leather and joints. You may be wondering if there is a lubricant that can do it all. Sure.
Ballistol -
Image 1 was taken from the Amazon website. Image 2 was taken from the Knives and Tools website. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
Ballistol is a product that claims to do it all. It claims to clean and protect against rust, preserve wood and leather products, and lubricate joints. Ballistol also claims to be food and skin safe. I do not know whether it can handle all these things competently, as I have never used it before. It does seem too good to be true. Even if Ballistol could do it all, I would not ditch my Nano oil for it, as it is far too valuable in my eyes.
Aerosol spray canisters -
Ballistol is a product that claims to do it all. It claims to clean and protect against rust, preserve wood and leather products, and lubricate joints. Ballistol also claims to be food and skin safe. I do not know whether it can handle all these things competently, as I have never used it before. It does seem too good to be true. Even if Ballistol could do it all, I would not ditch my Nano oil for it, as it is far too valuable in my eyes.
Aerosol spray canisters -
The images above were taken by me from my smartphone.
Products like 3-in-1 oil and Ballistol also come in spray canisters. I highly recommend avoiding aerosol spray canisters like the one seen in image 3. It is simply a container with a dispensing system that allows you to spray liquid in mist form. If the dispensing system fails, you will no longer have access to the "oil" inside. You could make a hole in the canister to access the contents and then insert a piece of wood in the hole to plug it, a bit like a wine bottle and a cork. Such canisters will also contain a watery version of the product, meaning the "oil" will evaporate quickly and may not do its job competently.
Note: Thicker lubricants will take longer to evaporate, whereas thinner, watery lubricants will evaporate fast, causing you to use them more frequently and making maintenance a chore.
First-Aid Kit:
Products like 3-in-1 oil and Ballistol also come in spray canisters. I highly recommend avoiding aerosol spray canisters like the one seen in image 3. It is simply a container with a dispensing system that allows you to spray liquid in mist form. If the dispensing system fails, you will no longer have access to the "oil" inside. You could make a hole in the canister to access the contents and then insert a piece of wood in the hole to plug it, a bit like a wine bottle and a cork. Such canisters will also contain a watery version of the product, meaning the "oil" will evaporate quickly and may not do its job competently.
Note: Thicker lubricants will take longer to evaporate, whereas thinner, watery lubricants will evaporate fast, causing you to use them more frequently and making maintenance a chore.
First-Aid Kit:
The images above were taken from Pixabay and are free for commercial use. Clicking on each image will take you to the original image and uploader.
A First Aid Kit (FAK) is crucial, especially for a long-term bug-out situation. Because it will be carried in a pack, it will be compact and lightweight. As a result, its capabilities will be limited, though it will contain all the basics. You can either buy a premade FAK or make your own. I recommend building your own FAK, as it forces you to learn about each item you choose to include. So, what items to include when making a basic FAK from scratch?
Items to include in a FAK -
A First Aid Kit (FAK) is crucial, especially for a long-term bug-out situation. Because it will be carried in a pack, it will be compact and lightweight. As a result, its capabilities will be limited, though it will contain all the basics. You can either buy a premade FAK or make your own. I recommend building your own FAK, as it forces you to learn about each item you choose to include. So, what items to include when making a basic FAK from scratch?
Items to include in a FAK -
Images 1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 & 12 were taken by me from my smartphone. Image 5 was taken from the sainsbury's website. Clicking on image 5 will take you to the appropriate webpage.
[1] Plasters/band-aids - In the UK, we call it a "plaster." In the USA and some other places, they call it a "band-aid." Either way, I am referring to smaller bandages with adhesive on them. Plasters are to be used on smaller cuts and abrasions to control bleeding. They also act as a barrier and keep the wound clean and safe from infections. Plasters can have problems adhering to the skin. As a result, warming the plaster before applying it will help it stick better.
[2] Various bandages - Items like sterile gauze pads, triangular bandages and conforming bandages will be used on mildly bleeding wounds that a plaster cannot handle. They are often used with medical tape or safety pins, so make sure to include them too.
[3] Alcohol & Iodine prep pads - Alcohol and iodine prep pads have antiseptic properties and are used to clean a wound before covering it with a plaster or bandage to avoid infection. I recommend not using alcohol pads directly on a wound because they can damage the tissue and hinder healing. Alcohol prep pads can, however, be used to clean the area around the wound or to disinfect and sterilize your hands or equipment before addressing an injury. Iodine prep pads can be used directly on a wound without causing a burning sensation, unlike alcohol pads. Note: The alcohol content in alcohol prep pads makes them flammable, meaning they can be used as ignitable material to start a fire. I briefly discuss this in the [II] COMBUSTION chapter.
[4] Paracetamol/Tylenol - In the UK, we call it "paracetamol." In the USA and some other places, they call it "Tylenol." Paracetamol is a common painkiller used to relieve pain caused by headaches, toothaches, backaches, sprains, etc. It can also be used to reduce a high temperature (fever). It is a common ingredient in many cold and flu medicines, including headache tablets. For more information, click here.
[5] Ibuprofen/Advil - In the UK, we call it "ibuprofen." In the USA and some other countries, they call it "Advil." Ibuprofen is similar to paracetamol in that it effectively reduces pain caused by migraines, toothaches, period pain, fevers, etc. The main difference is that ibuprofen is an anti-inflammatory drug, meaning it will also reduce inflammation caused by arthritis, sprains and strains, etc. Inflammation is when a part of the body looks red, is swollen and feels hot. For more information, click here.
[6] Anti-diarrhea pills - Diarrhea is when your body frequently discharges feces, usually in liquid form. It can deplete body fluids and cause profound dehydration, which can result in death. As the name suggests, anti-diarrhea pills help with diarrhea, including traveler's diarrhea, caused by eating or drinking anything contaminated.
[7, 8] Antiseptic cream & antiseptic liquid - Antiseptic is a substance that prevents or slows down the growth of microorganisms, such as bacteria, viruses and fungi, to prevent infections. Both antiseptic cream and liquid can be applied to cuts, grazes, insect bites and stings, minor burns, chapped skin, etc. The main difference between antiseptic cream and liquid is that antiseptic cream is for external use only, meaning it should only be applied to the outside of your skin. Antiseptic liquid, on the other hand, can be used as a gargle or mouthwash to help with sore throats and mouth ulcers. The cream can be applied to a wound with clean hands, but I personally use a cotton swab (Q-tip) to draw the antiseptic liquid and apply it to a wound that way.
[9] Cotton swabs - Cotton swabs or Q-tips are used to clean the area around the wound. As mentioned above, I personally prefer to use them with my antiseptic liquid, as the cotton effortlessly draws the liquid with minimal contact.
[10] Bonjela - Bonjela is a gel that relieves the pain and discomfort of mouth ulcers and can also help fight minor mouth infections. In image 10, there is another product called Orajel Extra Strength. Orajel numbs the area that is causing pain. Using it together with Bonjela or TCP antiseptic liquid will significantly reduce pain.
[11] Tourniquet - A tourniquet is a compression device used to control severe bleeding so that a person does not bleed to death. It is designed to be secured above the wound to restrict blood flow, giving you a small window to deal with the injury. In a worst-case scenario, a tourniquet can be used to amputate a limb or two.
[12] Potassium iodide - Potassium iodide is a thyroid blocker. It will prevent radioactive iodine from getting into your thyroid gland during nuclear radiation emergencies.
Above, I have listed items that you can include in your FAK. Of course, you do not have to include every single one, though this list should give a rough idea of what to include. Do not buy all these items and throw them into a pack, as you could potentially be allergic to some of the ingredients in some of these medications. Do your own research on every item before purchasing it. Note that I have not discussed antibiotics. Antibiotics will allow you to treat infections that may occur in the field. I recommend doing your own research on antibiotics.
The medications I mentioned above do have expiration dates. In general, some medicines are safe to consume past their expiration date, while others are not. Medications that are safe to consume past their expiration date will be 100% effective before their expiration. Once they expire, their potency will begin to decrease, though they will still be safe to consume. As a result, you will have to take a higher dosage for the medication to be effective. The more time passes, the weaker the medication becomes. This is not the case with every medication, so again, do your own research before buying or using any medicine.
Note: I recommend rebuilding your FAK from scratch every 3-5 years with brand-new items to stay ahead of the game.
Honorable mention(1) -
[1] Plasters/band-aids - In the UK, we call it a "plaster." In the USA and some other places, they call it a "band-aid." Either way, I am referring to smaller bandages with adhesive on them. Plasters are to be used on smaller cuts and abrasions to control bleeding. They also act as a barrier and keep the wound clean and safe from infections. Plasters can have problems adhering to the skin. As a result, warming the plaster before applying it will help it stick better.
[2] Various bandages - Items like sterile gauze pads, triangular bandages and conforming bandages will be used on mildly bleeding wounds that a plaster cannot handle. They are often used with medical tape or safety pins, so make sure to include them too.
[3] Alcohol & Iodine prep pads - Alcohol and iodine prep pads have antiseptic properties and are used to clean a wound before covering it with a plaster or bandage to avoid infection. I recommend not using alcohol pads directly on a wound because they can damage the tissue and hinder healing. Alcohol prep pads can, however, be used to clean the area around the wound or to disinfect and sterilize your hands or equipment before addressing an injury. Iodine prep pads can be used directly on a wound without causing a burning sensation, unlike alcohol pads. Note: The alcohol content in alcohol prep pads makes them flammable, meaning they can be used as ignitable material to start a fire. I briefly discuss this in the [II] COMBUSTION chapter.
[4] Paracetamol/Tylenol - In the UK, we call it "paracetamol." In the USA and some other places, they call it "Tylenol." Paracetamol is a common painkiller used to relieve pain caused by headaches, toothaches, backaches, sprains, etc. It can also be used to reduce a high temperature (fever). It is a common ingredient in many cold and flu medicines, including headache tablets. For more information, click here.
[5] Ibuprofen/Advil - In the UK, we call it "ibuprofen." In the USA and some other countries, they call it "Advil." Ibuprofen is similar to paracetamol in that it effectively reduces pain caused by migraines, toothaches, period pain, fevers, etc. The main difference is that ibuprofen is an anti-inflammatory drug, meaning it will also reduce inflammation caused by arthritis, sprains and strains, etc. Inflammation is when a part of the body looks red, is swollen and feels hot. For more information, click here.
[6] Anti-diarrhea pills - Diarrhea is when your body frequently discharges feces, usually in liquid form. It can deplete body fluids and cause profound dehydration, which can result in death. As the name suggests, anti-diarrhea pills help with diarrhea, including traveler's diarrhea, caused by eating or drinking anything contaminated.
[7, 8] Antiseptic cream & antiseptic liquid - Antiseptic is a substance that prevents or slows down the growth of microorganisms, such as bacteria, viruses and fungi, to prevent infections. Both antiseptic cream and liquid can be applied to cuts, grazes, insect bites and stings, minor burns, chapped skin, etc. The main difference between antiseptic cream and liquid is that antiseptic cream is for external use only, meaning it should only be applied to the outside of your skin. Antiseptic liquid, on the other hand, can be used as a gargle or mouthwash to help with sore throats and mouth ulcers. The cream can be applied to a wound with clean hands, but I personally use a cotton swab (Q-tip) to draw the antiseptic liquid and apply it to a wound that way.
[9] Cotton swabs - Cotton swabs or Q-tips are used to clean the area around the wound. As mentioned above, I personally prefer to use them with my antiseptic liquid, as the cotton effortlessly draws the liquid with minimal contact.
[10] Bonjela - Bonjela is a gel that relieves the pain and discomfort of mouth ulcers and can also help fight minor mouth infections. In image 10, there is another product called Orajel Extra Strength. Orajel numbs the area that is causing pain. Using it together with Bonjela or TCP antiseptic liquid will significantly reduce pain.
[11] Tourniquet - A tourniquet is a compression device used to control severe bleeding so that a person does not bleed to death. It is designed to be secured above the wound to restrict blood flow, giving you a small window to deal with the injury. In a worst-case scenario, a tourniquet can be used to amputate a limb or two.
[12] Potassium iodide - Potassium iodide is a thyroid blocker. It will prevent radioactive iodine from getting into your thyroid gland during nuclear radiation emergencies.
Above, I have listed items that you can include in your FAK. Of course, you do not have to include every single one, though this list should give a rough idea of what to include. Do not buy all these items and throw them into a pack, as you could potentially be allergic to some of the ingredients in some of these medications. Do your own research on every item before purchasing it. Note that I have not discussed antibiotics. Antibiotics will allow you to treat infections that may occur in the field. I recommend doing your own research on antibiotics.
The medications I mentioned above do have expiration dates. In general, some medicines are safe to consume past their expiration date, while others are not. Medications that are safe to consume past their expiration date will be 100% effective before their expiration. Once they expire, their potency will begin to decrease, though they will still be safe to consume. As a result, you will have to take a higher dosage for the medication to be effective. The more time passes, the weaker the medication becomes. This is not the case with every medication, so again, do your own research before buying or using any medicine.
Note: I recommend rebuilding your FAK from scratch every 3-5 years with brand-new items to stay ahead of the game.
Honorable mention(1) -
The image above is a screenshot of the Refuge Medical website. Clicking on the image above will take you to their website.
Refuge Medical is a small family-owned business. They design and manufacture handmade first aid kits for the military, civilians, and everybody in between. They are based in the USA. If you live close to the USA and do not want to build your own FAK, this may be a good option. Clicking on the image above will take you to the Refuge Medical website.
Work gloves:
Refuge Medical is a small family-owned business. They design and manufacture handmade first aid kits for the military, civilians, and everybody in between. They are based in the USA. If you live close to the USA and do not want to build your own FAK, this may be a good option. Clicking on the image above will take you to the Refuge Medical website.
Work gloves:
Image 1 was taken by me from my smartphone. Image 2 was taken from Pixabay and is free for commercial use. Clicking on image 2 will take you to the appropriate image and uploader.
A good pair of work gloves is an item I recommend keeping as part of your kit. They will keep your hands clean and protected from cuts, grazes and burns, which can become an opening for bacteria to enter and cause an infection like cellulitis. The effects can cause fever, chills or fatigue, and antibiotics will be needed to treat such an infection. To learn more about cellulitis, click here. I have seen many humans carry yellow leather work gloves as part of their kits, but I personally have the Mechanix gloves seen in image 1.
Nail clipper:
A good pair of work gloves is an item I recommend keeping as part of your kit. They will keep your hands clean and protected from cuts, grazes and burns, which can become an opening for bacteria to enter and cause an infection like cellulitis. The effects can cause fever, chills or fatigue, and antibiotics will be needed to treat such an infection. To learn more about cellulitis, click here. I have seen many humans carry yellow leather work gloves as part of their kits, but I personally have the Mechanix gloves seen in image 1.
Nail clipper:
The images above were taken by me from my smartphone.
Long fingernails will collect more dirt and bacteria than short fingernails, creating hygiene issues and potentially causing an infection. A pair of quality nail clippers will allow you to trim and keep your finger and toenails short, minimizing hygiene issues.
Duct tape:
Long fingernails will collect more dirt and bacteria than short fingernails, creating hygiene issues and potentially causing an infection. A pair of quality nail clippers will allow you to trim and keep your finger and toenails short, minimizing hygiene issues.
Duct tape:
The Images above are screenshots taken from SensiblePrepper's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on any image will take you to the original video.
Duct tape is extremely versatile, as it can be used to patch a hole in a tarp, as a substitute for a plaster, as a substitute for medical tape, as an ignitable material to start a fire, and so on. Gorilla brand duct tape utilizes a strong weave, making it tough. It also has a weather-resistant shell, allowing it to withstand the elements. Lastly, it has a double-thick adhesive that allows it to grip smooth, rough and uneven surfaces. Simply put, it is a quick and strong fix for many things.
Sewing kit:
Duct tape is extremely versatile, as it can be used to patch a hole in a tarp, as a substitute for a plaster, as a substitute for medical tape, as an ignitable material to start a fire, and so on. Gorilla brand duct tape utilizes a strong weave, making it tough. It also has a weather-resistant shell, allowing it to withstand the elements. Lastly, it has a double-thick adhesive that allows it to grip smooth, rough and uneven surfaces. Simply put, it is a quick and strong fix for many things.
Sewing kit:
The images above were taken from Pixabay and are free for commercial use. Clicking on each image will take you to the original image and uploader.
A basic sewing kit (thread and needle) will allow you to repair damaged items, like clothing, tarp webbing loops, and anything else with failed stitching.
Tooth brush:
A basic sewing kit (thread and needle) will allow you to repair damaged items, like clothing, tarp webbing loops, and anything else with failed stitching.
Tooth brush:
The images above were taken by me from my smartphone.
A toothbrush will allow you to clean your teeth effectively. Charcoal can be used as a toothpaste substitute in the field. I recommend carrying some toothpaste to start with, as doing so will give you some time to set up, make, and store charcoal for your next teeth-cleansing session. Just a small tube, as seen in image 2, should suffice.
Food:
A toothbrush will allow you to clean your teeth effectively. Charcoal can be used as a toothpaste substitute in the field. I recommend carrying some toothpaste to start with, as doing so will give you some time to set up, make, and store charcoal for your next teeth-cleansing session. Just a small tube, as seen in image 2, should suffice.
Food:
Images 1, 2 & 3 were taken from the Amazon website. Image 4 was taken by me from my smartphone. Clicking on images 1, 2 & 3 will take you to the appropriate webpage.
You cannot carry an indefinite amount of food in your pack. As a result, packing as much as you can carry will be the best option. There are two main options to choose from: meals ready to eat (MREs) or freeze-dried foods. There are dehydrated and canned foods available as well. However, I do not see them as a good fit for a long-term bug-out bag and will not discuss them further in this section.
MREs vs Freeze-dried foods -
The type of food you choose to include in your kit may be dependent on your survival philosophy, plan, or the preparations you might have already made. The main advantage of MREs is that they can be eaten as is, without any preparation. On the other hand, freeze-dried foods require a certain amount of hot water to bring them back to life. This means you must have the means to heat water, requiring you to build a fire or carry an alcohol or propane stove. Freeze-dried foods will look and taste much better than MREs once cooked and have a much longer shelf life of 20-30 years. MREs, on the other hand, typically have a standard 5-year shelf life. In my personal opinion, MREs are a better fit for a pack, whereas freeze-dried foods will be better stored at a camp or bug-out location.
Tissue & Hand sanitizer:
You cannot carry an indefinite amount of food in your pack. As a result, packing as much as you can carry will be the best option. There are two main options to choose from: meals ready to eat (MREs) or freeze-dried foods. There are dehydrated and canned foods available as well. However, I do not see them as a good fit for a long-term bug-out bag and will not discuss them further in this section.
MREs vs Freeze-dried foods -
The type of food you choose to include in your kit may be dependent on your survival philosophy, plan, or the preparations you might have already made. The main advantage of MREs is that they can be eaten as is, without any preparation. On the other hand, freeze-dried foods require a certain amount of hot water to bring them back to life. This means you must have the means to heat water, requiring you to build a fire or carry an alcohol or propane stove. Freeze-dried foods will look and taste much better than MREs once cooked and have a much longer shelf life of 20-30 years. MREs, on the other hand, typically have a standard 5-year shelf life. In my personal opinion, MREs are a better fit for a pack, whereas freeze-dried foods will be better stored at a camp or bug-out location.
Tissue & Hand sanitizer:
The images above were taken by me from my smartphone.
Toilet paper and hand sanitizer will come in handy for bathroom duties. You will not be able to carry an indefinite supply, though having some initially will give you time to set up and prepare for when they run out, a bit like the toothpaste situation.
Taking a crap -
Toilet paper and hand sanitizer will come in handy for bathroom duties. You will not be able to carry an indefinite supply, though having some initially will give you time to set up and prepare for when they run out, a bit like the toothpaste situation.
Taking a crap -
Image 1 is a screenshot taken from Coalcracker Bushcraft's YouTube video. Image 2 is a screenshot taken from Sigma 3 Survival School's YouTube video. Image 3 is a screenshot taken from Ranger Survival and Field Craft's YouTube video. Image 4 is a screenshot taken from Far North Bushcraft And Survival's YouTube video. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate video.
Above, I have presented four screenshots from four YouTube videos discussing bathroom duties in the field. I do recommend watching them. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate video. Because this topic is not often discussed, I will briefly summarize it below.
1) Dig a hole with a shovel. If you do not have a shovel, use a stick, a log, or your hands. It should be at least 6 inches deep and dug away from your water source to avoid contamination.
2) Take a crap in it.
3) Use toilet paper to wipe your butt. If you do not have toilet paper, you can use moss, grass, snow (in snowy conditions), smooth sticks, or smooth rocks. Washing such items with clean water before using them as toilet paper will make them safer. Do not use anything you cannot identify, as the last thing you want is an allergic reaction.
4) Throw the item you used to wipe your butt with in the hole with your crap and fill the hole with dirt. You are simply burying your crap like you would bury a corpse. Similar to a corpse, your crap will also decompose. Human urine and fecal matter are sources of nutrients for plants. In other words, woods worldwide are begging humans to take a crap in them. I highly recommend not getting too excited.
5) Use hand sanitizer to clean your hands. If you do not have any, use charcoal and water. You could also use ash from your campfire for this purpose.
Above, I have presented four screenshots from four YouTube videos discussing bathroom duties in the field. I do recommend watching them. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate video. Because this topic is not often discussed, I will briefly summarize it below.
1) Dig a hole with a shovel. If you do not have a shovel, use a stick, a log, or your hands. It should be at least 6 inches deep and dug away from your water source to avoid contamination.
2) Take a crap in it.
3) Use toilet paper to wipe your butt. If you do not have toilet paper, you can use moss, grass, snow (in snowy conditions), smooth sticks, or smooth rocks. Washing such items with clean water before using them as toilet paper will make them safer. Do not use anything you cannot identify, as the last thing you want is an allergic reaction.
4) Throw the item you used to wipe your butt with in the hole with your crap and fill the hole with dirt. You are simply burying your crap like you would bury a corpse. Similar to a corpse, your crap will also decompose. Human urine and fecal matter are sources of nutrients for plants. In other words, woods worldwide are begging humans to take a crap in them. I highly recommend not getting too excited.
5) Use hand sanitizer to clean your hands. If you do not have any, use charcoal and water. You could also use ash from your campfire for this purpose.
The Images above are screenshots taken from Outdoor Boys's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
Perhaps creating a structure, as seen in the images above, may be ideal for a long-term situation. Digging a big hole and creating a seat-like structure above it will create a makeshift toilet. Every time you use it, fill it with dirt and ash to cover the waste. Keep using it until it fills up. When you no longer can, rebuild another one.
Honorable mentions(2) -
Perhaps creating a structure, as seen in the images above, may be ideal for a long-term situation. Digging a big hole and creating a seat-like structure above it will create a makeshift toilet. Every time you use it, fill it with dirt and ash to cover the waste. Keep using it until it fills up. When you no longer can, rebuild another one.
Honorable mentions(2) -
The Images above are screenshots taken from Far North Bushcraft and Survival's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
If you cannot find anything to wipe your butt with, Lonnie, from Far North Bushcraft And Survival, demonstrated an alternative method he learned from Lars (Survival Russia). Simply using a blade to scrape wood will produce soft material that can be used to wipe that ass. This method will not work with every kind of wood and in every season. I recommend clicking on either image from above to watch Lonnie's video.
If you cannot find anything to wipe your butt with, Lonnie, from Far North Bushcraft And Survival, demonstrated an alternative method he learned from Lars (Survival Russia). Simply using a blade to scrape wood will produce soft material that can be used to wipe that ass. This method will not work with every kind of wood and in every season. I recommend clicking on either image from above to watch Lonnie's video.
The Images above are screenshots taken from Canadian Prepper's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on any image will take you to the original video.
Lastly, I want to mention the existence of toilet paper tablets. A toilet paper tablet is basically a compressed napkin that will unravel once water is applied to it. Instead of carrying actual toilet paper, which can be bulky, toilet paper tablets may be a better option.
Lastly, I want to mention the existence of toilet paper tablets. A toilet paper tablet is basically a compressed napkin that will unravel once water is applied to it. Instead of carrying actual toilet paper, which can be bulky, toilet paper tablets may be a better option.
