CHAPTER IX
This chapter will summarize all the essential items I recommend keeping in your long-term kit. I will also list all the online stores I have purchased items from to assist you further.
This chapter will summarize all the essential items I recommend keeping in your long-term kit. I will also list all the online stores I have purchased items from to assist you further.
Cutting tools:
The images above were taken from Pixabay and are free for commercial use. Clicking on each image will take you to the original image and uploader.
I recommend including a belt knife, a chopper, a saw and a multitool as part of your kit for all your processing needs.
Belt knife:
- Look at knives that fall into the bushcraft or survival category.
- Pick a knife with a cutting blade between 4 and 7 inches long.
- Pick a knife with a blade that is 3-to-4.7mm thick.
- The convex, sabre, full flat, and scandi grinds are viable options.
- Pick a knife with a full tang if you can, and avoid knives with a partial tang.
- 1095, 154cm, D2, N690, VG10, O1, A2, K720, 14C28N, AUS-8, 440C or their equivalent will be a good steel choice.
- A coated blade will protect your knife from oxidation, though it can create drag if the coating is rough and thick.
- There are a ton of knife brands that make dependable knives. I recommend referring to the [I] CUTTING TOOLS chapter to see a list of the brands I compiled.
- Pick a knife with a non-porous handle (G10, rubber or plastic).
- A knife with a sharpening choil will help you sharpen the whole cutting edge.
- Pick a knife with a 90-degree spine if you can.
- Avoid serrations (just my opinion).
Chopper:
- I recommend an axe.
- The axe needs to be able to chop, split and shape.
- Wetterlings, Granfors Bruks, Fiskars, Husqvarna and Hultafors are the brands I recommend.
- I recommend an axe with a handle between 17 and 22 inches long.
Saw:
- A pistol-grip saw, a folding saw and a foldable metal bow saw are viable choices.
- Pick a saw that has around 7-10 TPI.
- Pick a saw that cuts on both strokes or the pull stroke alone. Avoid saws that solely cut on the push stroke unless you pick a bow saw.
- Silky, Agawa and Bahco are the saw brands I recommend.
Multitool:
- Pick a multitool model that at least has a cutting blade, a saw and a reamer.
- Victorinox and Leatherman are the two brands I recommend.
Combustion:
I recommend including a belt knife, a chopper, a saw and a multitool as part of your kit for all your processing needs.
Belt knife:
- Look at knives that fall into the bushcraft or survival category.
- Pick a knife with a cutting blade between 4 and 7 inches long.
- Pick a knife with a blade that is 3-to-4.7mm thick.
- The convex, sabre, full flat, and scandi grinds are viable options.
- Pick a knife with a full tang if you can, and avoid knives with a partial tang.
- 1095, 154cm, D2, N690, VG10, O1, A2, K720, 14C28N, AUS-8, 440C or their equivalent will be a good steel choice.
- A coated blade will protect your knife from oxidation, though it can create drag if the coating is rough and thick.
- There are a ton of knife brands that make dependable knives. I recommend referring to the [I] CUTTING TOOLS chapter to see a list of the brands I compiled.
- Pick a knife with a non-porous handle (G10, rubber or plastic).
- A knife with a sharpening choil will help you sharpen the whole cutting edge.
- Pick a knife with a 90-degree spine if you can.
- Avoid serrations (just my opinion).
Chopper:
- I recommend an axe.
- The axe needs to be able to chop, split and shape.
- Wetterlings, Granfors Bruks, Fiskars, Husqvarna and Hultafors are the brands I recommend.
- I recommend an axe with a handle between 17 and 22 inches long.
Saw:
- A pistol-grip saw, a folding saw and a foldable metal bow saw are viable choices.
- Pick a saw that has around 7-10 TPI.
- Pick a saw that cuts on both strokes or the pull stroke alone. Avoid saws that solely cut on the push stroke unless you pick a bow saw.
- Silky, Agawa and Bahco are the saw brands I recommend.
Multitool:
- Pick a multitool model that at least has a cutting blade, a saw and a reamer.
- Victorinox and Leatherman are the two brands I recommend.
Combustion:
The images above were taken from Pixabay and are free for commercial use. Clicking on each image will take you to the original image and uploader.
Having the ability to build a fire is important because it allows you to:
1) disinfect water.
2) cook food.
3) preserve meat and fish by smoking it.
4) keep yourself warm.
5) hollow out wood.
6) see in the dark.
7) keep wild animals away.
8) create smoke to signal your location.
9) create smoke to keep the flies and creepy crawlies away.
10) dispose of things and corpses.
Fire building formula: Combustion device + Ignitable material = flame + fuel = sustainable campfire
Combustion devices:
Below, I will list some common combustion devices used to start a fire.
1) Ferrocerium rod - A ferrocerium rod is a combustion device that produces multiple hot sparks.
- Pick a ferro rod that is 6 inches long with a 1/2 inch diameter.
- A ferro rod with these dimensions will typically have a hard composition.
- Practice using the ferro rod (the showering, pull the rod and the scrape techniques).
2) Lighter - A lighter is a combustion device that produces a flame.
- Pick a disposable lighter.
- I recommend the BIC brand.
3) Matches - Matches are a combustion device capable of producing a flame.
- Pick storm proof matches.
- I recommend looking at the UCO or ZIPPO brand.
- Carry the matches in an airtight container made of hard plastic or metal.
4) Flint & Steel - Flint and Steel is a combustion device capable of producing sparks.
- Flint & Steel is a must for a long-term situation.
- Refer to the [II] COMBUSTION chapter for more information.
5) Bow drill - The bow drill is a combustion device capable of producing an ember.
- A good last resort way of starting a fire.
- Refer to the [II] COMBUSTION chapter for more information.
Ignitable material:
Below, I will list some of the common natural tinders used to start a fire.
1) Wood - A material you will have in abundance. It can be processed into feathersticks or scrapings to start a fire.
2) Fatwood - Fatwood is a wood naturally impregnated with flammable resin. It can be processed into feathersticks and scrapings to start a fire.
3) Birch bark - Birch bark is the outer layer of a birch tree and contains flammable oil. It can be processed into torn strips or scrapings to start a fire.
4) Tinder bundle - A tinder bundle is processed material that will trap heat and combust. It is often used with a combustion device capable of producing an ember and can be made from anything dead, dry or fluffy.
5) Charred material - Charred material, once ignited, will produce immense heat. It is often used with Flint and Steel and a tinder bundle. Anything natural can be charred, though soft, spongey materials will work better for the purpose of ignition.
Aside from the natural tinders mentioned above, commercial firestarters can be purchased to help start a fire. Commercial firestarters contain waxes and accelerants, allowing them to catch fire easily and burn for longer. Alternatively, you can make your own firestarters. I recommend referring to the [II] COMBUSTION chapter for more information.
Container:
Having the ability to build a fire is important because it allows you to:
1) disinfect water.
2) cook food.
3) preserve meat and fish by smoking it.
4) keep yourself warm.
5) hollow out wood.
6) see in the dark.
7) keep wild animals away.
8) create smoke to signal your location.
9) create smoke to keep the flies and creepy crawlies away.
10) dispose of things and corpses.
Fire building formula: Combustion device + Ignitable material = flame + fuel = sustainable campfire
Combustion devices:
Below, I will list some common combustion devices used to start a fire.
1) Ferrocerium rod - A ferrocerium rod is a combustion device that produces multiple hot sparks.
- Pick a ferro rod that is 6 inches long with a 1/2 inch diameter.
- A ferro rod with these dimensions will typically have a hard composition.
- Practice using the ferro rod (the showering, pull the rod and the scrape techniques).
2) Lighter - A lighter is a combustion device that produces a flame.
- Pick a disposable lighter.
- I recommend the BIC brand.
3) Matches - Matches are a combustion device capable of producing a flame.
- Pick storm proof matches.
- I recommend looking at the UCO or ZIPPO brand.
- Carry the matches in an airtight container made of hard plastic or metal.
4) Flint & Steel - Flint and Steel is a combustion device capable of producing sparks.
- Flint & Steel is a must for a long-term situation.
- Refer to the [II] COMBUSTION chapter for more information.
5) Bow drill - The bow drill is a combustion device capable of producing an ember.
- A good last resort way of starting a fire.
- Refer to the [II] COMBUSTION chapter for more information.
Ignitable material:
Below, I will list some of the common natural tinders used to start a fire.
1) Wood - A material you will have in abundance. It can be processed into feathersticks or scrapings to start a fire.
2) Fatwood - Fatwood is a wood naturally impregnated with flammable resin. It can be processed into feathersticks and scrapings to start a fire.
3) Birch bark - Birch bark is the outer layer of a birch tree and contains flammable oil. It can be processed into torn strips or scrapings to start a fire.
4) Tinder bundle - A tinder bundle is processed material that will trap heat and combust. It is often used with a combustion device capable of producing an ember and can be made from anything dead, dry or fluffy.
5) Charred material - Charred material, once ignited, will produce immense heat. It is often used with Flint and Steel and a tinder bundle. Anything natural can be charred, though soft, spongey materials will work better for the purpose of ignition.
Aside from the natural tinders mentioned above, commercial firestarters can be purchased to help start a fire. Commercial firestarters contain waxes and accelerants, allowing them to catch fire easily and burn for longer. Alternatively, you can make your own firestarters. I recommend referring to the [II] COMBUSTION chapter for more information.
Container:
The images above were taken from Pixabay and are free for commercial use. Clicking on each image will take you to the original image and uploader.
- A container will allow you to collect and store water.
- I recommend a metal container because it can be placed in a fire, allowing you to disinfect water and cook food.
- A metal container can be sterilized by heating it up on embers, allowing you to reuse it safely.
- Pick a single walled metal container.
- Pick a container made from food-grade stainless steel or titanium.
- I personally recommend selecting a canteen set.
- You may want to include a portable wood stove to elevate your container when cooking.
- Consider including metal cutlery.
Cordage:
- A container will allow you to collect and store water.
- I recommend a metal container because it can be placed in a fire, allowing you to disinfect water and cook food.
- A metal container can be sterilized by heating it up on embers, allowing you to reuse it safely.
- Pick a single walled metal container.
- Pick a container made from food-grade stainless steel or titanium.
- I personally recommend selecting a canteen set.
- You may want to include a portable wood stove to elevate your container when cooking.
- Consider including metal cutlery.
Cordage:
The images above were taken from Pixabay and are free for commercial use. Clicking on each image will take you to the original image and uploader.
- I recommend paracord as the cordage of choice, as it is durable and rot-resistant.
- I recommend picking 550 paracord and a less overkill variant.
- The inner strands in 550 paracord can be used independently.
- Consider including some fishing line, snare wire or shock cord as part of your kit.
- Learn how to tie a variety of knots.
Cover:
- I recommend paracord as the cordage of choice, as it is durable and rot-resistant.
- I recommend picking 550 paracord and a less overkill variant.
- The inner strands in 550 paracord can be used independently.
- Consider including some fishing line, snare wire or shock cord as part of your kit.
- Learn how to tie a variety of knots.
Cover:
The images above were taken from Pixabay and are free for commercial use. Clicking on each image will take you to the original image and uploader.
I recommend a five-piece shelter system which includes an elemental cover, groundsheet, sleeping mat, sleeping bag and a blanket.
Elemental cover:
- I recommend a tarpaulin.
- Pick an nylon, polyester or an oilskin tarp.
- Pick a square tarp.
- Pick a tarp that has webbing loops.
- If you pick a nylon or polyester tarp, make sure the seems are sealed.
- Learn different ways to set up a tarp.
Groundsheet:
- A groundsheet will protect your sleeping mat and potentially your sleeping bag from abrasion damage.
- Refer to the [V] COVER chapter for more information.
Sleeping mat:
- A sleeping mat will provide insulation and cushioning from the cold, hard ground.
- Pick a closed-cell foam pad.
- You may want to consider a thermal blanket.
Sleeping bag:
- I recommend a 3-season sleeping bag.
- I recommend a synthetic sleeping bag for wet environments.
- If you are right-handed, pick a sleeping bag with the zipper on the left side, and vice versa.
- You may want to consider a sleeping bag liner.
Blanket:
- Pick a wool blanket because it is durable, flame-resistant, antibacterial and a good insulator.
- Draping a wool blanket over a sleeping bag will protect it from the sparks of a fire.
- If your sleeping bag fails, a wool blanket can be used as an alternative.
- Wool is easy to clean in the field.
Additional equipment:
I recommend a five-piece shelter system which includes an elemental cover, groundsheet, sleeping mat, sleeping bag and a blanket.
Elemental cover:
- I recommend a tarpaulin.
- Pick an nylon, polyester or an oilskin tarp.
- Pick a square tarp.
- Pick a tarp that has webbing loops.
- If you pick a nylon or polyester tarp, make sure the seems are sealed.
- Learn different ways to set up a tarp.
Groundsheet:
- A groundsheet will protect your sleeping mat and potentially your sleeping bag from abrasion damage.
- Refer to the [V] COVER chapter for more information.
Sleeping mat:
- A sleeping mat will provide insulation and cushioning from the cold, hard ground.
- Pick a closed-cell foam pad.
- You may want to consider a thermal blanket.
Sleeping bag:
- I recommend a 3-season sleeping bag.
- I recommend a synthetic sleeping bag for wet environments.
- If you are right-handed, pick a sleeping bag with the zipper on the left side, and vice versa.
- You may want to consider a sleeping bag liner.
Blanket:
- Pick a wool blanket because it is durable, flame-resistant, antibacterial and a good insulator.
- Draping a wool blanket over a sleeping bag will protect it from the sparks of a fire.
- If your sleeping bag fails, a wool blanket can be used as an alternative.
- Wool is easy to clean in the field.
Additional equipment:
The images above were taken from Pixabay and are free for commercial use. Clicking on each image will take you to the original image and uploader.
Other important items are required for a long-term bug-out situation, other than the five C's. I will list some of them below.
Backpack:
- I recommend selecting a backpack with a frame.
- Pick an internal frame or an external frame pack.
- I recommend a backpack made from Cordura or nylon fabric.
- Pick a pack with a higher capacity (60L or more).
- Straps, D-rings and MOLLE webbing will allow you to increase capacity.
- Consider a rain cover.
Footwear:
- I currently believe a good-quality synthetic boot may be the way to go.
- Get boots that have thick material around the ankle area for support.
- Get a slightly bigger size.
- Break them in to make them comfortable.
- Certain brands may fit you better.
- Pair your boots with merino wool socks.
Clothing:
- Do not pick 100% cotton clothing.
- Refer to the [VI] ADDITIONAL EQUIPMENT chapter for more information.
Washcloths:
- Washcloths will assist with bathing.
Shovel:
- A shovel will assist with bathroom duties.
- A shovel can also be used to dig roots or grub.
Refer to the [VI] ADDITIONAL EQUIPMENT chapter for more information.
Maintenance:
Other important items are required for a long-term bug-out situation, other than the five C's. I will list some of them below.
Backpack:
- I recommend selecting a backpack with a frame.
- Pick an internal frame or an external frame pack.
- I recommend a backpack made from Cordura or nylon fabric.
- Pick a pack with a higher capacity (60L or more).
- Straps, D-rings and MOLLE webbing will allow you to increase capacity.
- Consider a rain cover.
Footwear:
- I currently believe a good-quality synthetic boot may be the way to go.
- Get boots that have thick material around the ankle area for support.
- Get a slightly bigger size.
- Break them in to make them comfortable.
- Certain brands may fit you better.
- Pair your boots with merino wool socks.
Clothing:
- Do not pick 100% cotton clothing.
- Refer to the [VI] ADDITIONAL EQUIPMENT chapter for more information.
Washcloths:
- Washcloths will assist with bathing.
Shovel:
- A shovel will assist with bathroom duties.
- A shovel can also be used to dig roots or grub.
Refer to the [VI] ADDITIONAL EQUIPMENT chapter for more information.
Maintenance:
The images above were taken from Pixabay and are free for commercial use. Clicking on each image will take you to the original image and uploader.
Sharpening stones:
- I recommend picking sharpening stones to keep your cutting tools sharp.
- I recommend a coarse-grit stone for repairs, a medium-grit stone to resharpen, a fine-grit stone for honing, and a strop for further refinement.
- Pick Spyderco's "double stuff" or Fallkniven's "CC4". This will give you a medium-grit and fine-grit stone.
- I recommend a coarse stone made from silicon carbide.
- I recommend rounding the edges of your stones to prevent chipping.
- Consider including an axe puck.
- Avoid pull-through sharpeners (just my opinion).
Lubricants:
Steel, wood, leather and joints need to be maintained. I recommend referring to the [VII] MAINTENANCE chapter for more information.
First-Aid Kit:
I recommend building you own FAK. Below, I will list items that you can include.
- Plasters
- Various bandages
- Alcohol and iodine prep pads
- Paracetamol/Tylenol
- Ibuprofen/Advil
- Anti-diarrhea pills
- Antiseptic liquid/cream
- Cotton swabs
- Bonjela
- Tourniquet
- Potassium iodide
Additional items like work gloves, nail clippers, duct tape, a sewing kit, a tooth brush, food, tissue and hand sanitizer can also be included.
Webstores I have purchased from:
Sharpening stones:
- I recommend picking sharpening stones to keep your cutting tools sharp.
- I recommend a coarse-grit stone for repairs, a medium-grit stone to resharpen, a fine-grit stone for honing, and a strop for further refinement.
- Pick Spyderco's "double stuff" or Fallkniven's "CC4". This will give you a medium-grit and fine-grit stone.
- I recommend a coarse stone made from silicon carbide.
- I recommend rounding the edges of your stones to prevent chipping.
- Consider including an axe puck.
- Avoid pull-through sharpeners (just my opinion).
Lubricants:
Steel, wood, leather and joints need to be maintained. I recommend referring to the [VII] MAINTENANCE chapter for more information.
First-Aid Kit:
I recommend building you own FAK. Below, I will list items that you can include.
- Plasters
- Various bandages
- Alcohol and iodine prep pads
- Paracetamol/Tylenol
- Ibuprofen/Advil
- Anti-diarrhea pills
- Antiseptic liquid/cream
- Cotton swabs
- Bonjela
- Tourniquet
- Potassium iodide
Additional items like work gloves, nail clippers, duct tape, a sewing kit, a tooth brush, food, tissue and hand sanitizer can also be included.
Webstores I have purchased from:
The images above were taken from Pixabay and are free for commercial use. Clicking on each image will take you to the original image and uploader.
Below, I will list the online shops I have purchased from. I have either made the purchase from their actual store or their Amazon, Ebay, or Etsy store. That said, links will direct you to the actual stores.
- Beaver Bushcraft & Leather (click here to visit).
- The Bushcraft Store (click here to visit).
- Heinnie Haynes (click here to visit).
- Military Kit (click here to visit).
- Tamarack Outdoors (click here to visit).
- Outdoor Adventurer (click here to visit).
- Ray Mears Bushcraft (click here to visit).
- Swiss store (click here to visit).
- Knives and Tools (click here to visit).
- VARUSTELEKA (click here to visit).
- BUSHCRAFT SPAIN (click here to visit).
- The Knife Connection (click here to visit).
- BLADEOPS (click here to visit).
- Keith (click here to visit).
- Wooly Mammoth Woolen Company (click here to visit).
- Mechanix Wear (click here to visit).
- The Friendly Swede (click here to visit).
- Military 1st (click here to visit).
- Tashev Outdoors (click here to visit).
- Original wood Tops (click here to visit).
- SPEC-OPS (click here to visit).
- Bushcraft Essentials (click here to visit).
- UCOgear (click here to visit).
- Nalgene (click here to visit).
- SILKY (click here to visit).
- AquaQuest (click here to visit).
I am not affiliated with any of these stores. I have purchased everything using my own money. This list is solely generated to help you if you are unsure where to purchase items from.
Below, I will list the online shops I have purchased from. I have either made the purchase from their actual store or their Amazon, Ebay, or Etsy store. That said, links will direct you to the actual stores.
- Beaver Bushcraft & Leather (click here to visit).
- The Bushcraft Store (click here to visit).
- Heinnie Haynes (click here to visit).
- Military Kit (click here to visit).
- Tamarack Outdoors (click here to visit).
- Outdoor Adventurer (click here to visit).
- Ray Mears Bushcraft (click here to visit).
- Swiss store (click here to visit).
- Knives and Tools (click here to visit).
- VARUSTELEKA (click here to visit).
- BUSHCRAFT SPAIN (click here to visit).
- The Knife Connection (click here to visit).
- BLADEOPS (click here to visit).
- Keith (click here to visit).
- Wooly Mammoth Woolen Company (click here to visit).
- Mechanix Wear (click here to visit).
- The Friendly Swede (click here to visit).
- Military 1st (click here to visit).
- Tashev Outdoors (click here to visit).
- Original wood Tops (click here to visit).
- SPEC-OPS (click here to visit).
- Bushcraft Essentials (click here to visit).
- UCOgear (click here to visit).
- Nalgene (click here to visit).
- SILKY (click here to visit).
- AquaQuest (click here to visit).
I am not affiliated with any of these stores. I have purchased everything using my own money. This list is solely generated to help you if you are unsure where to purchase items from.
