CHAPTER VI
In this chapter, I will discuss additional equipment that is needed for a long-term bug-out situation, other than the “five C’s.”
In this chapter, I will discuss additional equipment that is needed for a long-term bug-out situation, other than the “five C’s.”
Backpack:
The five Cs are essential. However, you will need a way to transport this equipment to wherever you are going. A backpack will allow you to carry all your gear, and it needs to be:
- able to pull a ton of weight over long stretches without failing.
- relatively comfortable.
- able to hold up to the harsh outdoor environment.
I will cover features you should look for when selecting a backpack for a more long-term situation.
Frameless vs Frame -
The images above were taken by me from my smartphone.
There are two types of backpacks: one with a frame and one without. Frameless packs are simple and typically require less material to manufacture, making them lightweight and more affordable. The lack of a frame allows for freedom of movement, allowing you to move freely with the pack on your back. They will, however, have less capacity as they are designed to carry less weight. Carrying a heavy load in a frameless pack would make for an uncomfortable journey. In addition, the lack of padding against your back means you must be mindful of how you pack a frameless backpack. You will need to place softer items against your back for better cushioning. A frameless pack will also directly touch your back, cutting off airflow and causing you to sweat more. A pack without a frame is ideal for short trips and casual outings but unsuitable for a long-term bug-out situation. I recommend sticking to packs with frames.
Note: If you still want a frameless pack, get one that is heavily padded. However, I will be sticking to packs with frames in this section.
Internal frame vs External frame -
There are two types of backpacks: one with a frame and one without. Frameless packs are simple and typically require less material to manufacture, making them lightweight and more affordable. The lack of a frame allows for freedom of movement, allowing you to move freely with the pack on your back. They will, however, have less capacity as they are designed to carry less weight. Carrying a heavy load in a frameless pack would make for an uncomfortable journey. In addition, the lack of padding against your back means you must be mindful of how you pack a frameless backpack. You will need to place softer items against your back for better cushioning. A frameless pack will also directly touch your back, cutting off airflow and causing you to sweat more. A pack without a frame is ideal for short trips and casual outings but unsuitable for a long-term bug-out situation. I recommend sticking to packs with frames.
Note: If you still want a frameless pack, get one that is heavily padded. However, I will be sticking to packs with frames in this section.
Internal frame vs External frame -
The images above were taken by me from my smartphone.
The purpose of a frame is to transfer the pack's weight evenly across your back with the help of a hip belt and a sternum strap, allowing you to carry heavy loads comfortably. A pack can have two types of frames: an internal frame or an external frame. I will further discuss these below.
[1] Internal frame - An internal frame, as the name may suggest, is integrated into the material of the backpack. It will fit the contours of your back, meaning a closer fit. This means the center of gravity is kept as close as possible to your natural position, making movement more manageable under heavier loads. Unfortunately, a closer fit would mean less airflow and a sweaty back. Your back will sweat regardless, though it will be more manageable with certain backpacks. Some internal frame packs may offer breathable mesh padding to combat sweating. Internal frame packs are lighter in weight than external frame packs. When it comes to price, it will vary depending on the materials and the features a particular pack offers. In general, internal frame packs will have fewer compartments and offer fewer mounting options for accessories such as pouches, though this is not always the case. Internal frame packs also tend to have a narrower profile, allowing them to fit into smaller spaces without getting caught on branches and twigs. In terms of comfortability, an internal frame pack will be more comfortable than an external frame pack as long as you choose one with thicker padding.
The purpose of a frame is to transfer the pack's weight evenly across your back with the help of a hip belt and a sternum strap, allowing you to carry heavy loads comfortably. A pack can have two types of frames: an internal frame or an external frame. I will further discuss these below.
[1] Internal frame - An internal frame, as the name may suggest, is integrated into the material of the backpack. It will fit the contours of your back, meaning a closer fit. This means the center of gravity is kept as close as possible to your natural position, making movement more manageable under heavier loads. Unfortunately, a closer fit would mean less airflow and a sweaty back. Your back will sweat regardless, though it will be more manageable with certain backpacks. Some internal frame packs may offer breathable mesh padding to combat sweating. Internal frame packs are lighter in weight than external frame packs. When it comes to price, it will vary depending on the materials and the features a particular pack offers. In general, internal frame packs will have fewer compartments and offer fewer mounting options for accessories such as pouches, though this is not always the case. Internal frame packs also tend to have a narrower profile, allowing them to fit into smaller spaces without getting caught on branches and twigs. In terms of comfortability, an internal frame pack will be more comfortable than an external frame pack as long as you choose one with thicker padding.
The images above were taken by me from my smartphone.
Some internal frames are adjustable, meaning they can be scaled to fit your back more accurately. Everyone has a different torso length, so this is an excellent feature on a backpack, especially if buying one online.
Note: Not all internal frame backpacks are adjustable.
Some internal frames are adjustable, meaning they can be scaled to fit your back more accurately. Everyone has a different torso length, so this is an excellent feature on a backpack, especially if buying one online.
Note: Not all internal frame backpacks are adjustable.
The images above were taken from the VARUSTELEKA website. Clicking on either image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
[2] External frame - An external frame can detach from the rest of the pack, allowing the frame and the shell to be used independently. The primary advantage of an external frame is its ability to carry heavy loads, significantly more than an internal frame, even if the loads are oddly shaped. This is because the rigid frame keeps your back straight during the carrying. Though a massive advantage, the frame will interfere with mobility. If you wanted to move quickly for any reason, you would feel restricted because of the stiff frame. The frame will also not fit the contours of your back, resulting in a gap between the frame and your back. This allows more airflow to your back and decreases sweating. However, it can be less comfortable than an internal frame because it will not fit your back flush. Some external frame packs can be adjusted to your torso by manually modifying the straps on the frame, though adjusting an adjustable internal frame pack is much easier. In addition, some external frames may have poles that extend at the top and bottom. Poles that stick out from the bottom are not a bad feature. If you were to lean your backpack against a tree, it would rest mostly on the poles, protecting the bottom of your pack from abrasion damage. On the flip side, poles extending from the top may get caught on branches and twigs.
Note: A thick-padded internal frame backpack may be a better choice if you have back problems.
Hip belt & Sternum strap explained -
[2] External frame - An external frame can detach from the rest of the pack, allowing the frame and the shell to be used independently. The primary advantage of an external frame is its ability to carry heavy loads, significantly more than an internal frame, even if the loads are oddly shaped. This is because the rigid frame keeps your back straight during the carrying. Though a massive advantage, the frame will interfere with mobility. If you wanted to move quickly for any reason, you would feel restricted because of the stiff frame. The frame will also not fit the contours of your back, resulting in a gap between the frame and your back. This allows more airflow to your back and decreases sweating. However, it can be less comfortable than an internal frame because it will not fit your back flush. Some external frame packs can be adjusted to your torso by manually modifying the straps on the frame, though adjusting an adjustable internal frame pack is much easier. In addition, some external frames may have poles that extend at the top and bottom. Poles that stick out from the bottom are not a bad feature. If you were to lean your backpack against a tree, it would rest mostly on the poles, protecting the bottom of your pack from abrasion damage. On the flip side, poles extending from the top may get caught on branches and twigs.
Note: A thick-padded internal frame backpack may be a better choice if you have back problems.
Hip belt & Sternum strap explained -
The images above were taken by me from my smartphone.
Both internal and external frame packs usually come with a hip belt and a sternum strap. Pick a backpack that has a hip belt and a sternum strap.
[1] Hip belt - A hip belt is designed to transfer a significant amount of pack weight from your shoulders to your hips, allowing you to carry heavier loads for longer distances. A hip belt will, however, restrict movement, especially if you want to move quickly. In this case, unbuckling the hip belt would allow you to move more freely.
[2] Sternum strap - A sternum strap is designed to further relieve pressure from your shoulders, preventing your shoulders from getting too sore. The tighter you fasten the sternum strap, the more pressure will be taken off. However, if fastened too tightly, it will make it difficult for you to breathe. In this case, unbuckling or loosening the strap will help.
Backpack fabric & materials -
Both internal and external frame packs usually come with a hip belt and a sternum strap. Pick a backpack that has a hip belt and a sternum strap.
[1] Hip belt - A hip belt is designed to transfer a significant amount of pack weight from your shoulders to your hips, allowing you to carry heavier loads for longer distances. A hip belt will, however, restrict movement, especially if you want to move quickly. In this case, unbuckling the hip belt would allow you to move more freely.
[2] Sternum strap - A sternum strap is designed to further relieve pressure from your shoulders, preventing your shoulders from getting too sore. The tighter you fasten the sternum strap, the more pressure will be taken off. However, if fastened too tightly, it will make it difficult for you to breathe. In this case, unbuckling or loosening the strap will help.
Backpack fabric & materials -
The image above is a screenshot taken from TheALOwens's YouTube video. It is used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on the image will take you to the original video.
I recommend that your backpack's shell be made of nylon or Cordura fabric. Invest in Cordura if you can afford it. I also recommend a pack made from a fabric with a higher denier number. What is that? Fabric is constructed by weaving a whole bunch of fibers together. The denier number will tell you how thick each fiber is. The higher the denier number, the thicker and more durable the fiber used to weave the fabric. As a result, a higher denier number with a tighter weave would result in a more resilient backpack, though it would be heavier and more expensive as well. I recommend a 500-1000 denier nylon or Cordura fabric.
Your pack will likely scrape and rub against the abrasive materials found outdoors. The main reason why I recommend Cordura is because it is abrasion-resistant and will hold up well in an outdoor environment. That said, nylon is not all that bad, considering Cordura is often made from nylon. TheALOwens conducted a torture test on two pouches, one made from 1000-denier Cordura and the other from 1000-denier nylon. Both fabrics held up well, though the Cordura fabric seemed to have a slight edge. I recommend clicking on the image above to watch the test.
Often, the fabric is not the issue. After reading many 1-star reviews, it became clear that cheaper backpacks typically fail because of poor stitching, lower-quality zippers and cheaper buckles.
I recommend that your backpack's shell be made of nylon or Cordura fabric. Invest in Cordura if you can afford it. I also recommend a pack made from a fabric with a higher denier number. What is that? Fabric is constructed by weaving a whole bunch of fibers together. The denier number will tell you how thick each fiber is. The higher the denier number, the thicker and more durable the fiber used to weave the fabric. As a result, a higher denier number with a tighter weave would result in a more resilient backpack, though it would be heavier and more expensive as well. I recommend a 500-1000 denier nylon or Cordura fabric.
Your pack will likely scrape and rub against the abrasive materials found outdoors. The main reason why I recommend Cordura is because it is abrasion-resistant and will hold up well in an outdoor environment. That said, nylon is not all that bad, considering Cordura is often made from nylon. TheALOwens conducted a torture test on two pouches, one made from 1000-denier Cordura and the other from 1000-denier nylon. Both fabrics held up well, though the Cordura fabric seemed to have a slight edge. I recommend clicking on the image above to watch the test.
Often, the fabric is not the issue. After reading many 1-star reviews, it became clear that cheaper backpacks typically fail because of poor stitching, lower-quality zippers and cheaper buckles.
The images above were taken by me from my smartphone.
When it comes to backpacks, if you pay cheap, you will get cheap. Well-built packs use better quality zippers (YKK or their equivalent), better quality buckles (DURAFLEX, ITW NEXUS, or their equivalent), and use more thread when stitching the materials together. This is why they are less likely to fail, though they will certainly be more expensive. In my personal opinion, if cheaper backpacks, regardless of the fabric used, were quadruple or even triple-stitched, they would last much longer.
Note: If you see a backpack with YKK zippers, chances are it will also have good-quality buckles and stitching.
Capacity-
When it comes to backpacks, if you pay cheap, you will get cheap. Well-built packs use better quality zippers (YKK or their equivalent), better quality buckles (DURAFLEX, ITW NEXUS, or their equivalent), and use more thread when stitching the materials together. This is why they are less likely to fail, though they will certainly be more expensive. In my personal opinion, if cheaper backpacks, regardless of the fabric used, were quadruple or even triple-stitched, they would last much longer.
Note: If you see a backpack with YKK zippers, chances are it will also have good-quality buckles and stitching.
Capacity-
The images above were taken by me from my smartphone.
Capacity simply means the amount of space you have in a pack and is often measured in liters. Above, I have presented two examples of packs with different capacities. The higher the capacity, the more things you can carry inside it. A backpack with a higher capacity will be heavier and cost more. For a long-term bug-out situation, I recommend a pack with a capacity of 60L or more.
Capacity simply means the amount of space you have in a pack and is often measured in liters. Above, I have presented two examples of packs with different capacities. The higher the capacity, the more things you can carry inside it. A backpack with a higher capacity will be heavier and cost more. For a long-term bug-out situation, I recommend a pack with a capacity of 60L or more.
The images above were taken by me from my smartphone.
I recommend a higher capacity because if a zipper were to fail on a backpack, that compartment would no longer be able to carry items inside it safely. With a higher capacity, you will have additional space in the form of extra compartments or simply one big shell. This will allow you to safely store and carry items your failed compartment can no longer store and carry.
Note: It would be wise to shop for a backpack last so that you roughly know the amount of space you will need.
Attachment options and MOLLE -
I recommend a higher capacity because if a zipper were to fail on a backpack, that compartment would no longer be able to carry items inside it safely. With a higher capacity, you will have additional space in the form of extra compartments or simply one big shell. This will allow you to safely store and carry items your failed compartment can no longer store and carry.
Note: It would be wise to shop for a backpack last so that you roughly know the amount of space you will need.
Attachment options and MOLLE -
The images above were taken by me from my smartphone.
Backpacks with higher capacities will be more expensive. If you cannot afford one or do not want a big backpack, certain items can be secured to the outside of a pack. D-rings and straps will assist with this, as seen in the images above.
Backpacks with higher capacities will be more expensive. If you cannot afford one or do not want a big backpack, certain items can be secured to the outside of a pack. D-rings and straps will assist with this, as seen in the images above.
The images above were taken by me from my smartphone.
In addition, the webbing stitched to the outside of a backpack will allow you to attach anything MOLLE-compatible, like my canteen pouch in the images above, to the outside. Even if the item you want to attach is not MOLLE-compatible, it can be secured to the webbing using cordage. It may not look nice, but it will get the job done.
Note: The capacity of a pack can be increased by attaching external pouches to the outside. Such pouches can be bought separately.
Backpack compartments -
In addition, the webbing stitched to the outside of a backpack will allow you to attach anything MOLLE-compatible, like my canteen pouch in the images above, to the outside. Even if the item you want to attach is not MOLLE-compatible, it can be secured to the webbing using cordage. It may not look nice, but it will get the job done.
Note: The capacity of a pack can be increased by attaching external pouches to the outside. Such pouches can be bought separately.
Backpack compartments -
Image 1 was taken from the Tashev website. Image 2 was taken from the Angling Direct website. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
Some packs have few to no compartments, while others may have quite a few. A pack with multiple compartments will allow you to organize your gear so that you know exactly where each piece of equipment is stored. This would allow you to access important gear like your first aid kit quickly. Such compartments are often opened and closed using zippers. A moving part is always considered the weak point in pretty much anything. If a zipper were to fail, it would render the whole compartment useless. If you want a backpack with many compartments, buy one with good-quality zippers. This is mainly why I stick to backpacks with limited zippers, lowering the chance of failure.
Rain cover -
Some packs have few to no compartments, while others may have quite a few. A pack with multiple compartments will allow you to organize your gear so that you know exactly where each piece of equipment is stored. This would allow you to access important gear like your first aid kit quickly. Such compartments are often opened and closed using zippers. A moving part is always considered the weak point in pretty much anything. If a zipper were to fail, it would render the whole compartment useless. If you want a backpack with many compartments, buy one with good-quality zippers. This is mainly why I stick to backpacks with limited zippers, lowering the chance of failure.
Rain cover -
The images above were taken by me from my smartphone.
Some packs may come with a rain cover or have one integrated into them, though most do not. A lot of backpacks may be water-resistant, but they are not fully waterproof. A rain cover will protect the equipment inside and anything attached to the outside from getting wet. A rain cover will also hide any gear attached to the outside, allowing you to be discreet.
Note: Because a rain cover is fully waterproof, it can be used as a small groundsheet.
Footwear:
The three types -
Some packs may come with a rain cover or have one integrated into them, though most do not. A lot of backpacks may be water-resistant, but they are not fully waterproof. A rain cover will protect the equipment inside and anything attached to the outside from getting wet. A rain cover will also hide any gear attached to the outside, allowing you to be discreet.
Note: Because a rain cover is fully waterproof, it can be used as a small groundsheet.
Footwear:
The three types -
Images 1 & 2 were taken by me from my smartphone. Image 3 was taken from Pixabay and is free for commercial use. Clicking on image 3 will take you to the original image and uploader.
There are three types of footwear commonly worn outdoors: synthetic, leather and rubber. A good pair of synthetic boots should last you a couple of years with little to no maintenance other than the occasional wipe-down. On the other hand, a pair of leather boots will last significantly longer if cared for. Leather is high maintenance and will need to be regularly treated, especially when outdoors. The last remaining option is rubber boots, and I am talking about Wellington boots, also known as muck boots. Rubber boots are durable, 100% waterproof and require no major maintenance. Unfortunately, they are not breathable, meaning your feet will begin to sweat profusely if you wear them for an extended period.
I currently believe synthetic boots are the way to go for a more long-term situation.
Four considerations -
There are three types of footwear commonly worn outdoors: synthetic, leather and rubber. A good pair of synthetic boots should last you a couple of years with little to no maintenance other than the occasional wipe-down. On the other hand, a pair of leather boots will last significantly longer if cared for. Leather is high maintenance and will need to be regularly treated, especially when outdoors. The last remaining option is rubber boots, and I am talking about Wellington boots, also known as muck boots. Rubber boots are durable, 100% waterproof and require no major maintenance. Unfortunately, they are not breathable, meaning your feet will begin to sweat profusely if you wear them for an extended period.
I currently believe synthetic boots are the way to go for a more long-term situation.
Four considerations -
Image 1 was taken from the Salomon website. Image 2 was taken from the ALTBERG website. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
Below, I will mention four things to consider when choosing footwear (in general).
- Ankle support - Buy boots with thick material around the ankle area, as highlighted in the images above. This will support your ankles and prevent any injuries that may occur from carrying a heavy pack on uneven terrain.
- Get a slightly bigger size - On extremely cold days, you may want to wear thicker socks as an additional insulation layer. If your boots are just the right size, the thicker socks will make them tight on your feet, hindering blood circulation and thus making your feet colder. Buying one size up, or even a half size up, will prevent this issue.
- Break them in - New shoes will need to be broken in. Breaking them in will reduce the stiffness and make them more comfortable on your feet, especially when walking long distances. Constantly wearing them around for a couple of weeks should break them in.
- Certain brands may fit you better - Every manufacturer uses a different foot model when moulding a boot. As a result, certain brands may fit you better.
Durability concerns -
Below, I will mention four things to consider when choosing footwear (in general).
- Ankle support - Buy boots with thick material around the ankle area, as highlighted in the images above. This will support your ankles and prevent any injuries that may occur from carrying a heavy pack on uneven terrain.
- Get a slightly bigger size - On extremely cold days, you may want to wear thicker socks as an additional insulation layer. If your boots are just the right size, the thicker socks will make them tight on your feet, hindering blood circulation and thus making your feet colder. Buying one size up, or even a half size up, will prevent this issue.
- Break them in - New shoes will need to be broken in. Breaking them in will reduce the stiffness and make them more comfortable on your feet, especially when walking long distances. Constantly wearing them around for a couple of weeks should break them in.
- Certain brands may fit you better - Every manufacturer uses a different foot model when moulding a boot. As a result, certain brands may fit you better.
Durability concerns -
Images 1, 2 & 3 are screenshots taken from Wilderness Innovation's YouTube video. Image 4 is a screenshot taken from Phil Crockett's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate source.
I am leaning more toward synthetic boots because they require little maintenance, though their lifespan concerns me. The sole, also known as the outsole, is the bottom part of the boot that makes contact with the ground when walking in them. Usually, the outsole is the first thing to fail on a synthetic boot. The glue used to bind it weakens over time, causing the sole to detach from the rest of the boot. This can be seen in images 1 and 2 above. Fortunately, the boot can be repaired by stitching the sole back on. I first saw this method being used by Perry Peacock of the Wilderness Innovations YouTube channel. As seen in image 3, he uses a sewing awl and a waxed polyester thread to repair the boot. In the field, you can use a paracord inner strand and the reamer on your multitool (provided that your multitool offers a reamer designed for stitching). If you do not have a reamer, you could carry a bigger and thicker needle as part of your kit for these sorts of repairs. Alternatively, you can put a sharp point on a small stick and then pierce holes around the boot and sole. The holes should be big enough for a regular needle to go through, allowing you to stitch the sole back on. This will prolong the life of your footwear. However, with time and further use, they will eventually become irreparable. What then?
Pain vs Jiraiya -
I am leaning more toward synthetic boots because they require little maintenance, though their lifespan concerns me. The sole, also known as the outsole, is the bottom part of the boot that makes contact with the ground when walking in them. Usually, the outsole is the first thing to fail on a synthetic boot. The glue used to bind it weakens over time, causing the sole to detach from the rest of the boot. This can be seen in images 1 and 2 above. Fortunately, the boot can be repaired by stitching the sole back on. I first saw this method being used by Perry Peacock of the Wilderness Innovations YouTube channel. As seen in image 3, he uses a sewing awl and a waxed polyester thread to repair the boot. In the field, you can use a paracord inner strand and the reamer on your multitool (provided that your multitool offers a reamer designed for stitching). If you do not have a reamer, you could carry a bigger and thicker needle as part of your kit for these sorts of repairs. Alternatively, you can put a sharp point on a small stick and then pierce holes around the boot and sole. The holes should be big enough for a regular needle to go through, allowing you to stitch the sole back on. This will prolong the life of your footwear. However, with time and further use, they will eventually become irreparable. What then?
Pain vs Jiraiya -
Image 1 was compiled using images taken from naruto fandom. Images 2 & 3 were taken from naruto fandom. Clicking on the images above will take you to the original website.
Well, I then watched the Pain vs. Jiraiya fight from the anime Naruto and noticed Jiraiya's footwear. He was wearing a traditional Japanese sandal known as the Geta.
The Geta -
Well, I then watched the Pain vs. Jiraiya fight from the anime Naruto and noticed Jiraiya's footwear. He was wearing a traditional Japanese sandal known as the Geta.
The Geta -
The images above are screenshots taken from Woodworking Enthisiasts's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
Geta are made from wood and can be created in the field somewhat easily if your boots were to fail. Even if your footwear is completely intact, you can still make these in the field to make your life much easier. For instance, it would be much simpler to slide these on than your boots if you had to relieve yourself during the night. In addition, they will be more comfortable to wear on hotter days than your boots. Below, I will present a few models I have created from wood.
My Geta models -
Geta are made from wood and can be created in the field somewhat easily if your boots were to fail. Even if your footwear is completely intact, you can still make these in the field to make your life much easier. For instance, it would be much simpler to slide these on than your boots if you had to relieve yourself during the night. In addition, they will be more comfortable to wear on hotter days than your boots. Below, I will present a few models I have created from wood.
My Geta models -
The images above were taken by me from my smartphone.
To make these miniature models, I used my SAK Huntsman, 2mm paracord and a lighter. I used the saw and the carving blades to create the two rectangular sections at the bottom, as seen in image 1. I then used the reamer to make three holes for the straps to fit in, which I improvised using the 2mm paracord. The holes were strategically made between the rectangular sections to protect the cordage from abrasion damage from the ground.
To make these miniature models, I used my SAK Huntsman, 2mm paracord and a lighter. I used the saw and the carving blades to create the two rectangular sections at the bottom, as seen in image 1. I then used the reamer to make three holes for the straps to fit in, which I improvised using the 2mm paracord. The holes were strategically made between the rectangular sections to protect the cordage from abrasion damage from the ground.
The images above were taken by me from my smartphone.
Even if your boots failed in the field, you should be able to salvage some usable material from them, like the insoles. An insole, also known as an inner sole, is a soft insert placed inside the boot to make it more comfortable. It should be easy to remove. In the example above, I have used some denim material to replicate it. Securing it to a geta will make it more comfortable on your feet. Other than affixing salvaged material from your failed footwear, wearing socks will provide additional cushioning.
Note: If I were to secure an insole to my geta in the field, I would not secure it as I have done in the images above. This is simply a demonstration.
Even if your boots failed in the field, you should be able to salvage some usable material from them, like the insoles. An insole, also known as an inner sole, is a soft insert placed inside the boot to make it more comfortable. It should be easy to remove. In the example above, I have used some denim material to replicate it. Securing it to a geta will make it more comfortable on your feet. Other than affixing salvaged material from your failed footwear, wearing socks will provide additional cushioning.
Note: If I were to secure an insole to my geta in the field, I would not secure it as I have done in the images above. This is simply a demonstration.
The images above were taken by me from my smartphone.
With this particular model, I made two holes on the front side and two on the left and right sides. The holes on each side connect, allowing me to slide paracord through them to improvise the straps. The main issue with this version is the holes created on the front side. As the reamer is short, I may not be able to connect the two holes when making a life-size geta.
With this particular model, I made two holes on the front side and two on the left and right sides. The holes on each side connect, allowing me to slide paracord through them to improvise the straps. The main issue with this version is the holes created on the front side. As the reamer is short, I may not be able to connect the two holes when making a life-size geta.
The images above were taken by me from my smartphone.
This final geta model I created is a replica of a modern-day slider. In my opinion, this particular model will be the easiest to reproduce in the field. I simply created two sets of holes on each side and slid some paracord through them to make the straps. With all the models I created, I secured the paracord to the wood by melting the ends. However, I would simply tie a knot when making a life-size geta. Doing so will allow me to loosen or tighten the straps as needed. The geta being made from wood means they will have a finite lifespan, as wood can be weak and rot when constantly exposed to the elements. This means I may have to make a new pair of geta multiple times a year. If the strap is secured by a knot, it can be easily unraveled, allowing me to reuse it on a new pair.
Note: If you affix materials to a geta, like an insole, be mindful of how you secure them to the wood, as you may want to reuse them on a new pair.
Socks discussed -
This final geta model I created is a replica of a modern-day slider. In my opinion, this particular model will be the easiest to reproduce in the field. I simply created two sets of holes on each side and slid some paracord through them to make the straps. With all the models I created, I secured the paracord to the wood by melting the ends. However, I would simply tie a knot when making a life-size geta. Doing so will allow me to loosen or tighten the straps as needed. The geta being made from wood means they will have a finite lifespan, as wood can be weak and rot when constantly exposed to the elements. This means I may have to make a new pair of geta multiple times a year. If the strap is secured by a knot, it can be easily unraveled, allowing me to reuse it on a new pair.
Note: If you affix materials to a geta, like an insole, be mindful of how you secure them to the wood, as you may want to reuse them on a new pair.
Socks discussed -
The images above were taken from Pixabay and are free for commercial use. Clicking on each image will take you to the original image and uploader.
I recommend pairing merino wool socks with your boots and avoiding cotton socks. Cotton is not durable and will not be able to keep you warm if it gets wet, potentially leading to hypothermia. On the other hand, merino wool is soft, durable, moisture wicking and self-cleaning. Merino wool socks will also not smell like cotton socks after wearing them for a prolonged period. When it comes time to clean them, submerging them under water, gently squeezing the excess water, and hanging them to air-dry will be sufficient. Merino wool socks can be expensive, so if you cannot afford them, socks with a synthetic and cotton blend will be a more durable option. For instance, a 65% cotton and 35% nylon blend will last longer than a 100% cotton construction.
Clothing:
I recommend pairing merino wool socks with your boots and avoiding cotton socks. Cotton is not durable and will not be able to keep you warm if it gets wet, potentially leading to hypothermia. On the other hand, merino wool is soft, durable, moisture wicking and self-cleaning. Merino wool socks will also not smell like cotton socks after wearing them for a prolonged period. When it comes time to clean them, submerging them under water, gently squeezing the excess water, and hanging them to air-dry will be sufficient. Merino wool socks can be expensive, so if you cannot afford them, socks with a synthetic and cotton blend will be a more durable option. For instance, a 65% cotton and 35% nylon blend will last longer than a 100% cotton construction.
Clothing:
Image 1 was taken from Pixabay and is free for commercial use. Image 2 is a screenshot taken from The MCQBushcraft Archive's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate source.
When it comes to clothing, I do not see myself as someone qualified to direct you down a particular path. I can only recommend avoiding 100% cotton clothing, as cotton is not durable or a good insulator when wet. Opting for clothing with a cotton and synthetic blend will be more durable, like an 80% polyester and 20% cotton blend. A full synthetic construction can be uncomfortable on your skin. As a result, having some cotton as part of the construction will help with comfort. I recommend clicking on image 2 and watching Mike's video about this topic. Note that I have not mentioned base layers, which are garments worn underneath your main layer of clothes. This is something I recommend doing your own research on.
In the [IX] SUMMARY chapter, I have listed online stores I purchased from while on my "prepping" journey. Some of these sites have a clothing section where you can see the kinds of clothes suitable for the outdoors if you are unsure.
Washcloth:
When it comes to clothing, I do not see myself as someone qualified to direct you down a particular path. I can only recommend avoiding 100% cotton clothing, as cotton is not durable or a good insulator when wet. Opting for clothing with a cotton and synthetic blend will be more durable, like an 80% polyester and 20% cotton blend. A full synthetic construction can be uncomfortable on your skin. As a result, having some cotton as part of the construction will help with comfort. I recommend clicking on image 2 and watching Mike's video about this topic. Note that I have not mentioned base layers, which are garments worn underneath your main layer of clothes. This is something I recommend doing your own research on.
In the [IX] SUMMARY chapter, I have listed online stores I purchased from while on my "prepping" journey. Some of these sites have a clothing section where you can see the kinds of clothes suitable for the outdoors if you are unsure.
Washcloth:
Image 1 was taken by me from my smartphone. Image 2 is a screenshot taken from Far North Bushcraft And Survival's YouTube video. It is used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on image 2 will take you to the original video.
Keeping a couple of washcloths as part of your kit will assist you when bathing. They are small, square-shaped towels made from cotton. In image 2, Lonnie, from Far North Bushcraft and Survival, demonstrates how you would use one when keeping yourself clean in the woods. I recommend clicking on image 2 to watch this being demonstrated. I have tried this method myself, and it makes a difference. You will definitely feel clean.
Shovel:
Keeping a couple of washcloths as part of your kit will assist you when bathing. They are small, square-shaped towels made from cotton. In image 2, Lonnie, from Far North Bushcraft and Survival, demonstrates how you would use one when keeping yourself clean in the woods. I recommend clicking on image 2 to watch this being demonstrated. I have tried this method myself, and it makes a difference. You will definitely feel clean.
Shovel:
Image 1 was taken from Pixabay and is free for commercial use. Image 2 was taken by me from my smartphone. Clicking on image 1 will take you to the original image and uploader.
A small, portable shovel will allow you to dig up grubs and roots as an extra source of calories. However, the main reason why I recommend carrying a shovel is to dig a hole for bathroom duties. This is further discussed in the [VII] MAINTENANCE chapter.
Flashlight:
A small, portable shovel will allow you to dig up grubs and roots as an extra source of calories. However, the main reason why I recommend carrying a shovel is to dig a hole for bathroom duties. This is further discussed in the [VII] MAINTENANCE chapter.
Flashlight:
Image 1 was taken from Pixabay and is free for commercial use. Image 2 was taken from the Amazon website. Image 3 is taken by me from my smartphone. Clicking on image 1 & 2 will take you to the appropriate source.
Though you will have a campfire to illuminate your surroundings when it gets dark, a flashlight can be of further assistance. There are three types of flashlights: battery-operated, rechargeable and wind-up. Battery-operated flashlights run on disposable batteries, which is why I do not recommend them. The second type is rechargeable. As the name suggests, a rechargeable flashlight can be recharged repeatedly as long as you have the appropriate equipment. Though a viable option, the recharging equipment will increase the weight of your pack. The last option is a wind-up flashlight. Winding the lever on such a flashlight will charge the battery inside it. It will not last for hours and hours, though each charge should provide you with a decent amount of light. I do recommend doing more of your own research on the different flashlights.
Though you will have a campfire to illuminate your surroundings when it gets dark, a flashlight can be of further assistance. There are three types of flashlights: battery-operated, rechargeable and wind-up. Battery-operated flashlights run on disposable batteries, which is why I do not recommend them. The second type is rechargeable. As the name suggests, a rechargeable flashlight can be recharged repeatedly as long as you have the appropriate equipment. Though a viable option, the recharging equipment will increase the weight of your pack. The last option is a wind-up flashlight. Winding the lever on such a flashlight will charge the battery inside it. It will not last for hours and hours, though each charge should provide you with a decent amount of light. I do recommend doing more of your own research on the different flashlights.
The images above were taken from Pixabay and are free for commercial use. Image 2 has been edited. Clicking on each image will take you to the original image and uploader.
Alternatively, a headlamp is a gadget that also exists. It is basically a headband with a flashlight attached to it. It is designed to be worn around your head, as seen in image 2. It allows both of your hands to be free, unlike a flashlight. Some headlamps are powered by disposable batteries, while others are powered by rechargeable batteries. If a headlamp interests you, I recommend a rechargeable one, though you will have to carry charging equipment too.
Map and Compass:
Alternatively, a headlamp is a gadget that also exists. It is basically a headband with a flashlight attached to it. It is designed to be worn around your head, as seen in image 2. It allows both of your hands to be free, unlike a flashlight. Some headlamps are powered by disposable batteries, while others are powered by rechargeable batteries. If a headlamp interests you, I recommend a rechargeable one, though you will have to carry charging equipment too.
Map and Compass:
The images above were taken from Pixabay and are free for commercial use. Clicking on each image will take you to the original image and uploader.
A map and a compass can be two crucial items in a bug-out situation. I recommend learning how to use them properly before carrying them.
Additional items:
A map and a compass can be two crucial items in a bug-out situation. I recommend learning how to use them properly before carrying them.
Additional items:
Images 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 & 7 were taken by me from my smartphone. Images 8 & 9 were taken from Pixabay and are free for commercial use. Clicking on images 8 & 9 will take you to the original image and uploader.
Besides the things I have discussed, you can carry anything else you believe will help you. I have listed a couple of additional items above.
Besides the things I have discussed, you can carry anything else you believe will help you. I have listed a couple of additional items above.
