CHAPTER II
In this chapter, I will talk about the importance and uses of fire. I will discuss combustion devices and ignitable materials that will help you start a fire and also cover how to build a fire.
In this chapter, I will talk about the importance and uses of fire. I will discuss combustion devices and ignitable materials that will help you start a fire and also cover how to build a fire.
The image above was taken from Pixabay and is free for commercial use. Clicking on the image will take you to the original image and uploader.
The ability to build a fire is immensely important and could be a deciding factor between life and death. Below, I will list various tasks a fire will allow you to accomplish.
1) Disinfect water -
The ability to build a fire is immensely important and could be a deciding factor between life and death. Below, I will list various tasks a fire will allow you to accomplish.
1) Disinfect water -
The images above are screenshots taken from TheOutdoorGearReview's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
When out in the wilderness, you cannot just walk up to a water source and drink from it unless you completely trust it, as it may be contaminated with bacteria, viruses, or parasites capable of making you ill or, worse, killing you. A fire will allow you to disinfect the water by boiling it. Simply bringing it to a rolling boil, as seen in image 2, for a minute will make the water safe to drink. If you are at a higher elevation (6500ft or more), bringing it to a rolling boil for three minutes is best practice, as suggested on the CDC website. This is because water boils at a lower temperature as you go up in altitude. Click here to read more on the CDC website.
Note: You will need a metal container if you want to place the water in a fire to boil it. Containers are discussed in the [III] CONTAINER chapter.
2) Cook food -
When out in the wilderness, you cannot just walk up to a water source and drink from it unless you completely trust it, as it may be contaminated with bacteria, viruses, or parasites capable of making you ill or, worse, killing you. A fire will allow you to disinfect the water by boiling it. Simply bringing it to a rolling boil, as seen in image 2, for a minute will make the water safe to drink. If you are at a higher elevation (6500ft or more), bringing it to a rolling boil for three minutes is best practice, as suggested on the CDC website. This is because water boils at a lower temperature as you go up in altitude. Click here to read more on the CDC website.
Note: You will need a metal container if you want to place the water in a fire to boil it. Containers are discussed in the [III] CONTAINER chapter.
2) Cook food -
Image 1 is a screenshot taken from The MCQBushcraft Archive's YouTube video. Image 2 is a screenshot taken from Townsends YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate video.
Fire will allow you to cook food and can also be used to preserve meat by smoking it. There may come a time when you have more meat than you need, and if not preserved, the meat will spoil. Simply slow-cooking it under a small fire will successfully dehydrate the meat, extending its life. The meat should be processed into thin strips, as seen in image 2. A tall rack is needed to elevate the meat above the small fire. The meat should have as little fat on it as possible, as fat is less stable. All this means is that foods that contain fat will generally have a shorter shelf life. After the meat is successfully smoked, it could last up to a couple of weeks. Clicking on image 2 will take you to Townsend's YouTube video, where you can see this preservation method in action.
Note: In the past, humans used heat from the sun to sun-dry meats to preserve them in warmer climates. Salt is another preservative that was commonly used in the past as well. Click here to see how salt can preserve meat and fish.
3) Keep you warm -
Fire will allow you to cook food and can also be used to preserve meat by smoking it. There may come a time when you have more meat than you need, and if not preserved, the meat will spoil. Simply slow-cooking it under a small fire will successfully dehydrate the meat, extending its life. The meat should be processed into thin strips, as seen in image 2. A tall rack is needed to elevate the meat above the small fire. The meat should have as little fat on it as possible, as fat is less stable. All this means is that foods that contain fat will generally have a shorter shelf life. After the meat is successfully smoked, it could last up to a couple of weeks. Clicking on image 2 will take you to Townsend's YouTube video, where you can see this preservation method in action.
Note: In the past, humans used heat from the sun to sun-dry meats to preserve them in warmer climates. Salt is another preservative that was commonly used in the past as well. Click here to see how salt can preserve meat and fish.
3) Keep you warm -
The image above was taken from Pexels and is free to use. Clicking on the image will take you to the original image and uploader.
When outdoors, it is vital to regulate your body temperature. Fire will help you keep warm. Without warmth, your body can go into hypothermia, which is a dangerous drop in body temperature and can kill you.
4) Fire waste -
When outdoors, it is vital to regulate your body temperature. Fire will help you keep warm. Without warmth, your body can go into hypothermia, which is a dangerous drop in body temperature and can kill you.
4) Fire waste -
The images above were taken from Pixabay and are free for commercial use. Clicking on each image will take you to the original image and uploader.
Even after a fire dies out, the remains can be very useful. After your campfire has consumed its fuel, ash and charcoal are produced as waste. Ash and charcoal can be used as soap substitutes to help clean your body. Charcoal can also be used as a substitute for toothpaste to help maintain oral hygiene. So, make sure the waste is not wasted.
5) Hollow wood -
Even after a fire dies out, the remains can be very useful. After your campfire has consumed its fuel, ash and charcoal are produced as waste. Ash and charcoal can be used as soap substitutes to help clean your body. Charcoal can also be used as a substitute for toothpaste to help maintain oral hygiene. So, make sure the waste is not wasted.
5) Hollow wood -
The images above are screenshots taken from Instinct Survivalist's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on any image will take you to the original video.
Hot, glowing embers from a campfire can be used to hollow out wood, as seen in image 1. Many items can be created using this technique, like pots and containers. Utilizing this hollowing technique will preserve the edge of your cutting tools, as the embers will do most of the work. In addition to hollowing, this technique can also be used to make holes in wood.
Note: This technique is time-consuming and can take many hours to complete.
6) Illumination -
Hot, glowing embers from a campfire can be used to hollow out wood, as seen in image 1. Many items can be created using this technique, like pots and containers. Utilizing this hollowing technique will preserve the edge of your cutting tools, as the embers will do most of the work. In addition to hollowing, this technique can also be used to make holes in wood.
Note: This technique is time-consuming and can take many hours to complete.
6) Illumination -
The image above was taken from Pixabay and is free for commercial use. Clicking on the image will take you to the original image and uploader.
In the field, you will be limited by daylight, meaning it will get dark quickly. This will limit your visibility and the time you have to work. The light from your campfire will allow you to see your surroundings better and give you more time to work.
7) Protection -
In the field, you will be limited by daylight, meaning it will get dark quickly. This will limit your visibility and the time you have to work. The light from your campfire will allow you to see your surroundings better and give you more time to work.
7) Protection -
The image above was taken from Pixabay and is free for commercial use. Clicking on the image will take you to the original image and uploader.
Fire can be used as a form of protection and can keep wild animals away, especially at night while you are sleeping.
8) Signalling device -
Fire can be used as a form of protection and can keep wild animals away, especially at night while you are sleeping.
8) Signalling device -
The image above was taken from Pixabay and is free for commercial use. Clicking on the image will take you to the original image and uploader.
Fire can also be used as a signalling device. For instance, if you were lost and wanted to alert someone of your whereabouts, the smoke from your fire would do that. Simply start a fire and toss a ton of green leaves or anything with moisture inside into the fire. This will create a lot of smoke, which will rise and hopefully catch the attention of someone in your vicinity. Click here to watch this method being demonstrated.
9) Insect repellent -
Fire can also be used as a signalling device. For instance, if you were lost and wanted to alert someone of your whereabouts, the smoke from your fire would do that. Simply start a fire and toss a ton of green leaves or anything with moisture inside into the fire. This will create a lot of smoke, which will rise and hopefully catch the attention of someone in your vicinity. Click here to watch this method being demonstrated.
9) Insect repellent -
The image above was taken from Pixabay and is free for commercial use. Clicking on the image will take you to the original image and uploader.
Smoke can also act as an insect repellent. If the creepy crawlies and flies are bothering you, the smoke from your campfire should keep them away.
10) Dispose -
Smoke can also act as an insect repellent. If the creepy crawlies and flies are bothering you, the smoke from your campfire should keep them away.
10) Dispose -
The image above was taken from Pixabay and is free for commercial use. Clicking on the image will take you to the original image and uploader.
Lastly, fire can be used to dispose of things and humans (not alive ones). Things can get very dangerous in a long-term bug-out situation, and death is inevitable. Digging a grave will burn a ton of calories, whereas cremation may be a simpler solution. Cremation is the process of turning a corpse into ash with the assistance of fire.
Note: Burning plastic is toxic to humans, so do not inhale the fumes of burning plastic.
Fire formula -
Lastly, fire can be used to dispose of things and humans (not alive ones). Things can get very dangerous in a long-term bug-out situation, and death is inevitable. Digging a grave will burn a ton of calories, whereas cremation may be a simpler solution. Cremation is the process of turning a corpse into ash with the assistance of fire.
Note: Burning plastic is toxic to humans, so do not inhale the fumes of burning plastic.
Fire formula -
The image above was created by me in Microsoft Paint 3D.
As you can see from above, fire is essential when surviving outdoors. So, how do you build a fire? There are two major steps involved in building a fire. The first step is to start a fire. A combustion device and ignitable material will give you a flame, which is essentially a short window to build a fire. Once you have a flame, the next step is to build a fire by adding fuel to it. This, if done correctly, will give you a sustainable campfire.
I will split fire-building into two main sections: starting a fire and building a fire. I will begin with the "starting a fire" section and explain the common combustion devices and ignitable materials used today to start a fire. I will begin with the combustion devices and then move on to the ignitable materials.
Starting a fire:
Combustion devices -
1) Ferrocerium rods -
What are they -
As you can see from above, fire is essential when surviving outdoors. So, how do you build a fire? There are two major steps involved in building a fire. The first step is to start a fire. A combustion device and ignitable material will give you a flame, which is essentially a short window to build a fire. Once you have a flame, the next step is to build a fire by adding fuel to it. This, if done correctly, will give you a sustainable campfire.
I will split fire-building into two main sections: starting a fire and building a fire. I will begin with the "starting a fire" section and explain the common combustion devices and ignitable materials used today to start a fire. I will begin with the combustion devices and then move on to the ignitable materials.
Starting a fire:
Combustion devices -
1) Ferrocerium rods -
What are they -
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
A ferrocerium rod is a combustion device made from a mixture of different metals and is often referred to as a "ferro rod." They can come in various shapes and sizes and are coated to prevent them from corroding. The coating must be removed in order to use the ferro rod, which can be easily done by scraping it off with a sharp-edged object. Many ferro rods will come with a striker, allowing you to strike them. The same striker can be used to scrape the coating off.
How they work -
A ferrocerium rod is a combustion device made from a mixture of different metals and is often referred to as a "ferro rod." They can come in various shapes and sizes and are coated to prevent them from corroding. The coating must be removed in order to use the ferro rod, which can be easily done by scraping it off with a sharp-edged object. Many ferro rods will come with a striker, allowing you to strike them. The same striker can be used to scrape the coating off.
How they work -
The images above are screenshots taken from The MCQBushcraft Archive's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
Once the coating is off, you will be able to produce multiple sparks, as seen in image 2. When you strike a ferro rod, you remove material from it. The material being removed reacts with oxygen, resulting in sparks. These hot sparks will turn into a flame once they come into contact with an ignitable material.
Alternative strikers -
Once the coating is off, you will be able to produce multiple sparks, as seen in image 2. When you strike a ferro rod, you remove material from it. The material being removed reacts with oxygen, resulting in sparks. These hot sparks will turn into a flame once they come into contact with an ignitable material.
Alternative strikers -
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
Some ferro rods are sold with strikers, while others are not. It is not a big deal if a ferro rod comes without a striker, as anything with a sharp edge on it can be used to strike it. This includes the 90-degree spine on your knife, folding saw, multitool saw blade, and even the sharp edge of your multitool reamer.
Some ferro rods are sold with strikers, while others are not. It is not a big deal if a ferro rod comes without a striker, as anything with a sharp edge on it can be used to strike it. This includes the 90-degree spine on your knife, folding saw, multitool saw blade, and even the sharp edge of your multitool reamer.
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
The sad truth is that most strikers sold with ferro rods will suck, some will be decent, and only a few will actually be good. I have found that strikers with a burr formed on them perform exceptionally well. As you can see in image 2, lightly gliding the striker over my fingernail will effortlessly remove material.
Note: Premium ferro rods sold by companies like "The Friendly Swede" and "Uberleben" will come with strikers with a burr worked on them.
Sparks explained -
The sad truth is that most strikers sold with ferro rods will suck, some will be decent, and only a few will actually be good. I have found that strikers with a burr formed on them perform exceptionally well. As you can see in image 2, lightly gliding the striker over my fingernail will effortlessly remove material.
Note: Premium ferro rods sold by companies like "The Friendly Swede" and "Uberleben" will come with strikers with a burr worked on them.
Sparks explained -
The images above are screenshots taken from Canadian Prepper's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on any image will take you to the original video.
When attempting to start a fire with a ferro rod, the sparks need to be as close as possible to the ignitable material for it to catch and turn into a flame. This is because sparks produced by a ferro rod lose their heat the further they travel. At the same time, you must be mindful of not hitting the ignitable material, as it could smother the flame or cause the material to go flying.
Before I discuss how to use a ferro rod and the different techniques, I will talk about the composition and dimensions of a ferro rod, as they will determine the technique you use.
Composition -
When attempting to start a fire with a ferro rod, the sparks need to be as close as possible to the ignitable material for it to catch and turn into a flame. This is because sparks produced by a ferro rod lose their heat the further they travel. At the same time, you must be mindful of not hitting the ignitable material, as it could smother the flame or cause the material to go flying.
Before I discuss how to use a ferro rod and the different techniques, I will talk about the composition and dimensions of a ferro rod, as they will determine the technique you use.
Composition -
Image 1 was taken from the LIGHT MY FIRE website. Image 2 was taken from the Amazon website. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
Some ferro rods are soft, while others are hard. A hard ferro rod will require more force and speed to generate sparks, whereas a softer rod requires less speed and pressure. It is easier to remove material from softer rods, making them more user-friendly, though they tend not to last as long as harder ferro rods. The composition of a ferro rod can be difficult to determine unless it is well-known or well-reviewed. For example, the "LIGHT MY FIRE" ferro rod is widely known to have a soft composition, as it has been used and reviewed by many humans. However, not all ferro rods are as popular, and the only true way to know the composition is to use the rod and find out.
Dimensions -
Some ferro rods are soft, while others are hard. A hard ferro rod will require more force and speed to generate sparks, whereas a softer rod requires less speed and pressure. It is easier to remove material from softer rods, making them more user-friendly, though they tend not to last as long as harder ferro rods. The composition of a ferro rod can be difficult to determine unless it is well-known or well-reviewed. For example, the "LIGHT MY FIRE" ferro rod is widely known to have a soft composition, as it has been used and reviewed by many humans. However, not all ferro rods are as popular, and the only true way to know the composition is to use the rod and find out.
Dimensions -
The images above were taken from the Amazon website. Clicking on either image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
A ferro rod's dimensions will also affect the technique you use and how long it will last. I recommend buying a six inch long ferro rod with a diameter of half an inch, as a rod with these dimensions can be struck thousands of times and last a very long time. A longer ferro rod, like the one I am recommending, will also allow for a longer stroke. This means that each strike will remove more material from the rod, producing more sparks and making fire lighting effortless.
Note: A ferro rod that is six inches long with a half-inch diameter will usually have a hard composition. As a result, the techniques I will present below will be in line with a harder ferro rod.
Techniques -
Technique 1 - The showering:
A ferro rod's dimensions will also affect the technique you use and how long it will last. I recommend buying a six inch long ferro rod with a diameter of half an inch, as a rod with these dimensions can be struck thousands of times and last a very long time. A longer ferro rod, like the one I am recommending, will also allow for a longer stroke. This means that each strike will remove more material from the rod, producing more sparks and making fire lighting effortless.
Note: A ferro rod that is six inches long with a half-inch diameter will usually have a hard composition. As a result, the techniques I will present below will be in line with a harder ferro rod.
Techniques -
Technique 1 - The showering:
The images above are screenshots taken from The MCQBushcraft Archive's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on any image will take you to the original video.
While holding the ferro rod close to the ignitable material, repeatedly striking the rod with a striker will continuously produce a multitude of concentrated sparks. The immense heat generated will ignite the material with no problem.
While holding the ferro rod close to the ignitable material, repeatedly striking the rod with a striker will continuously produce a multitude of concentrated sparks. The immense heat generated will ignite the material with no problem.
The images above are screenshots taken from The MCQBushcraft Archive's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
When using this technique, it is important not to complete a full stroke and to stop a couple of centimeters earlier. If you do not, you will smother the flame.
When using this technique, it is important not to complete a full stroke and to stop a couple of centimeters earlier. If you do not, you will smother the flame.
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
Over time, stopping a couple of centimeters before completing a full stroke will leave a big chunk of ferrocerium material hanging at the end, as seen in image 2. You will not be able to use that piece at the end because it is far too small. This is why some humans do not like this technique, as they see it as a waste of ferrocerium material. As you continue to use this technique, the rod will wear out to the point where it will snap in two, as shown in image 3.
Note: A short, broken ferro rod is not entirely useless. I will demonstrate how it can be used in the flint and steel section below.
Technique 2 - Pull the rod:
Over time, stopping a couple of centimeters before completing a full stroke will leave a big chunk of ferrocerium material hanging at the end, as seen in image 2. You will not be able to use that piece at the end because it is far too small. This is why some humans do not like this technique, as they see it as a waste of ferrocerium material. As you continue to use this technique, the rod will wear out to the point where it will snap in two, as shown in image 3.
Note: A short, broken ferro rod is not entirely useless. I will demonstrate how it can be used in the flint and steel section below.
Technique 2 - Pull the rod:
The images above are screenshots taken from The MCQBushcraft Archive's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on any image will take you to the original video.
While holding the striker close to the ignitable material, swiftly scraping the ferro rod against it will produce a horde of sparks. The striker should be stationary. The only thing moving should be the ferro rod. This technique will allow you to make a full stroke, generating gobs of sparks. It will also not leave an unusable chunk of ferrocerium material at the end, like the showering technique.
Technique 3 - The scrape:
While holding the striker close to the ignitable material, swiftly scraping the ferro rod against it will produce a horde of sparks. The striker should be stationary. The only thing moving should be the ferro rod. This technique will allow you to make a full stroke, generating gobs of sparks. It will also not leave an unusable chunk of ferrocerium material at the end, like the showering technique.
Technique 3 - The scrape:
The images above are screenshots taken from Matt Smith's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on any image will take you to the original video.
As you will know from above, ferro rods are made from many different metals. One of them includes magnesium, which burns extremely hot. Gently and repeatedly scraping a ferro rod will allow you to create a pile of ferrocerium shavings. Placing these shavings on top of an ignitable material and igniting them by swiftly striking the ferro rod will produce many sparks. As the shavings ignite, they will burn and crackle, and the mass heat generated should ignite even the most stubborn materials.
Note: You will need a generous pile of ferrocerium shavings for this technique to work. Repeatedly removing this kind of material from a rod can significantly shorten its life.
Handles on ferro rods -
As you will know from above, ferro rods are made from many different metals. One of them includes magnesium, which burns extremely hot. Gently and repeatedly scraping a ferro rod will allow you to create a pile of ferrocerium shavings. Placing these shavings on top of an ignitable material and igniting them by swiftly striking the ferro rod will produce many sparks. As the shavings ignite, they will burn and crackle, and the mass heat generated should ignite even the most stubborn materials.
Note: You will need a generous pile of ferrocerium shavings for this technique to work. Repeatedly removing this kind of material from a rod can significantly shorten its life.
Handles on ferro rods -
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
Some ferro rods come with a handle, and some do not. Handles are usually offered on smaller rods to help the user grip them better when striking them. Unfortunately, ferro rod handles are notorious for coming off the ferro rod (over time).
Some ferro rods come with a handle, and some do not. Handles are usually offered on smaller rods to help the user grip them better when striking them. Unfortunately, ferro rod handles are notorious for coming off the ferro rod (over time).
The image above was compiled using images I found on the CASSTROM UK DISTRIBUTION website. Clicking on the image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
This can become a major issue, especially if you want to attach a ferro rod to the outside of your knife sheath via the ferro rod holder. A handle does serve a purpose. What if you want a handle?
This can become a major issue, especially if you want to attach a ferro rod to the outside of your knife sheath via the ferro rod holder. A handle does serve a purpose. What if you want a handle?
Image 1 was taken from the Amazon website. Image 2 is a screenshot taken from David Canterbury's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate source.
I have seen David Canterbury wrap Gorilla-brand duct tape around a ferro rod to create a makeshift handle. Duct tape is strong, making it a secure handle option. In addition, Gorilla brand duct tape is flammable and can be used as ignitable material for fire lighting. I will talk more about this in the ignitable material section below.
Oxidation & Corrosion -
I have seen David Canterbury wrap Gorilla-brand duct tape around a ferro rod to create a makeshift handle. Duct tape is strong, making it a secure handle option. In addition, Gorilla brand duct tape is flammable and can be used as ignitable material for fire lighting. I will talk more about this in the ignitable material section below.
Oxidation & Corrosion -
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
After you have finished using your rod, the area you scraped will turn grey, as seen in image 1. The rod reacted with oxygen and became like this. This is normal. This thin layer must be scraped off for your rod to throw sparks again, like in image 2.
After you have finished using your rod, the area you scraped will turn grey, as seen in image 1. The rod reacted with oxygen and became like this. This is normal. This thin layer must be scraped off for your rod to throw sparks again, like in image 2.
The image above is a screenshot taken from Nathan4071's YouTube video. It is used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on the image will take you to the original video.
Ferro rods can badly corrode if they come into contact with moisture. It is vitally important to immediately wipe any moisture from the rod, as it oxidizes extremely quickly. If you use your ferro rod regularly, the oils from your hands will form a protective layer. Alternatively, you can apply a lubricant to the rod to prevent corrosion, like you would with the blade of your knife.
Ridges on ferro rods -
Ferro rods can badly corrode if they come into contact with moisture. It is vitally important to immediately wipe any moisture from the rod, as it oxidizes extremely quickly. If you use your ferro rod regularly, the oils from your hands will form a protective layer. Alternatively, you can apply a lubricant to the rod to prevent corrosion, like you would with the blade of your knife.
Ridges on ferro rods -
The image above is a screenshot taken from Coalcracker Bushcraft's YouTube video. It is used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on the image will take you to the original video.
Ridges are another problem likely to occur on a ferro rod, preventing it from producing sparks. This will, however, happen over time. Ridges form on a ferro rod when it is struck with uneven pressure. At home, a file or coarse sandpaper can be used to remove the ridges. In the field, a coarse stone or slab, or even a file if you have one on your multitool, can be used to remove them.
Honorable mention(1) -
Ridges are another problem likely to occur on a ferro rod, preventing it from producing sparks. This will, however, happen over time. Ridges form on a ferro rod when it is struck with uneven pressure. At home, a file or coarse sandpaper can be used to remove the ridges. In the field, a coarse stone or slab, or even a file if you have one on your multitool, can be used to remove them.
Honorable mention(1) -
The image above was taken from the Uberleben website. Clicking on the image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
I wanted to mention the existence of hexagon-shaped ferro rods. There are square-shaped ones available as well. The main advantage of such rods is that they will have multiple flat sides. A ferro rod with a flat surface will allow a striker to make more contact with it, allowing more material to come off the rod, producing more sparks than a regular round ferro rod. I cannot confirm this, as I do not know. As I see it, repeatedly striking the same surface on a regular rod will flatten it out over time. As a result, I do not think ferro rods with a flat surface will offer a significant advantage over regular ones.
Note: I am not trying to get you to buy this. I only mentioned it so that you know the options you have available to you.
2) Lighters -
The types of lighters -
I wanted to mention the existence of hexagon-shaped ferro rods. There are square-shaped ones available as well. The main advantage of such rods is that they will have multiple flat sides. A ferro rod with a flat surface will allow a striker to make more contact with it, allowing more material to come off the rod, producing more sparks than a regular round ferro rod. I cannot confirm this, as I do not know. As I see it, repeatedly striking the same surface on a regular rod will flatten it out over time. As a result, I do not think ferro rods with a flat surface will offer a significant advantage over regular ones.
Note: I am not trying to get you to buy this. I only mentioned it so that you know the options you have available to you.
2) Lighters -
The types of lighters -
Images 1 & 2 were taken by me from my smartphone. Image 3 was taken from the Amazon website. Clicking on image 3 will take you to the appropriate webpage.
Lighters are a convenient way of swiftly starting a fire, as they are able to produce a flame. All the other combustion devices mentioned in this section will require some skill to operate successfully. With a lighter, it is as simple as pressing a button.
There are three types of lighters: disposable, refillable and rechargeable. Disposable lighters will have a limited amount of fuel, giving you a limited number of times to start a fire. Once the fuel inside them is depleted, they tend to be discarded in the trash. Refillable lighters, on the other hand, can be continuously refilled with fuel every time they become depleted. However, they are just as good as disposable lighters without additional fuel. Lastly, rechargeable lighters are powered by a battery and can be recharged, as their name suggests. Instead of a flame, rechargeable lighters produce a laser arc.
In this particular section, I will focus solely on disposable lighters, as I believe they are the simpler, more lightweight option of the three.
How to ignite material -
Lighters are a convenient way of swiftly starting a fire, as they are able to produce a flame. All the other combustion devices mentioned in this section will require some skill to operate successfully. With a lighter, it is as simple as pressing a button.
There are three types of lighters: disposable, refillable and rechargeable. Disposable lighters will have a limited amount of fuel, giving you a limited number of times to start a fire. Once the fuel inside them is depleted, they tend to be discarded in the trash. Refillable lighters, on the other hand, can be continuously refilled with fuel every time they become depleted. However, they are just as good as disposable lighters without additional fuel. Lastly, rechargeable lighters are powered by a battery and can be recharged, as their name suggests. Instead of a flame, rechargeable lighters produce a laser arc.
In this particular section, I will focus solely on disposable lighters, as I believe they are the simpler, more lightweight option of the three.
How to ignite material -
The images above are screenshots taken from Coalcracker Bushcraft's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
Simply holding a lit lighter to an ignitable material for a couple of seconds will cause the material to catch and burn, giving you a short window to build a fire. Plain and simple.
Lighters explained -
Simply holding a lit lighter to an ignitable material for a couple of seconds will cause the material to catch and burn, giving you a short window to build a fire. Plain and simple.
Lighters explained -
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
Disposable lighters are filled with lighter fluid, which is a compressed gas in liquid form (usually butane). A flame will appear once you strike the spark wheel and press down on the gas lever simultaneously. The lever releases the flammable gas from its chamber sparingly to provide a consistent flame, and the spark wheel strikes a small flint inside the lighter, which is essentially a mini ferro rod, to produce sparks. As the gas is released, it catches a spark and turns into a flame. The flame will remain as long as you hold down the gas lever. The longer you hold down the lever, the more gas you will use up, and the sooner the lighter will become disposable.
Note: A disposable lighter will not last as long as an actual ferro rod. However, it will be very effective at starting a fire for as long as it lasts since it can produce a flame.
BIC vs Cheaper alternatives -
Disposable lighters are filled with lighter fluid, which is a compressed gas in liquid form (usually butane). A flame will appear once you strike the spark wheel and press down on the gas lever simultaneously. The lever releases the flammable gas from its chamber sparingly to provide a consistent flame, and the spark wheel strikes a small flint inside the lighter, which is essentially a mini ferro rod, to produce sparks. As the gas is released, it catches a spark and turns into a flame. The flame will remain as long as you hold down the gas lever. The longer you hold down the lever, the more gas you will use up, and the sooner the lighter will become disposable.
Note: A disposable lighter will not last as long as an actual ferro rod. However, it will be very effective at starting a fire for as long as it lasts since it can produce a flame.
BIC vs Cheaper alternatives -
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
I personally recommend the BIC brand for disposable lighters over cheaper alternatives. That said, I will present two advantages of cheaper alternatives over BIC lighters below.
1) You will always be able to see the amount of fluid remaining in cheaper lighters because of their transparent body. On the other hand, BIC lighters will have to be held in front of a light source to check the fluid level (flashlight, sunlight, etc.).
2) The flame on some cheaper lighters can be adjusted by moving a toggle left or right. You could even remove the metal frame and manipulate the inner mechanism for an extremely large flame if you so desired. There are videos on YouTube demonstrating this. Note: More fuel is used to sustain a larger flame, whereas less fuel is needed for a smaller one.
Besides these two points, the BIC has a better build and a more consistent flame. From personal use, cheaper alternatives will have an inconsistent flame. Sometimes the flame is large, and sometimes it is small. I have also seen cheaper lighters fall apart easily, which is why I recommend the BIC brand.
Child safety lock -
I personally recommend the BIC brand for disposable lighters over cheaper alternatives. That said, I will present two advantages of cheaper alternatives over BIC lighters below.
1) You will always be able to see the amount of fluid remaining in cheaper lighters because of their transparent body. On the other hand, BIC lighters will have to be held in front of a light source to check the fluid level (flashlight, sunlight, etc.).
2) The flame on some cheaper lighters can be adjusted by moving a toggle left or right. You could even remove the metal frame and manipulate the inner mechanism for an extremely large flame if you so desired. There are videos on YouTube demonstrating this. Note: More fuel is used to sustain a larger flame, whereas less fuel is needed for a smaller one.
Besides these two points, the BIC has a better build and a more consistent flame. From personal use, cheaper alternatives will have an inconsistent flame. Sometimes the flame is large, and sometimes it is small. I have also seen cheaper lighters fall apart easily, which is why I recommend the BIC brand.
Child safety lock -
The images above are screenshots taken from Corporals Corner's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on any image will take you to the original video.
BIC lighters will come with a child safety lock. Its removal will make the lighter easier to use. Clicking on any of the images from above will take you to Shawn's YouTube video, where you can see how to remove a child safety lock from a BIC lighter.
Cold & wet conditions -
BIC lighters will come with a child safety lock. Its removal will make the lighter easier to use. Clicking on any of the images from above will take you to Shawn's YouTube video, where you can see how to remove a child safety lock from a BIC lighter.
Cold & wet conditions -
The images above are screenshots taken from Far North Bushcraft and Survival's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
BIC lighters will have difficulty producing a flame in extremely cold conditions. Warming up the lighter will be necessary for it to produce a flame again. Simply holding the lighter close to your body or placing it under your armpit will cause it to warm up and work again.
BIC lighters will have difficulty producing a flame in extremely cold conditions. Warming up the lighter will be necessary for it to produce a flame again. Simply holding the lighter close to your body or placing it under your armpit will cause it to warm up and work again.
The images above are screenshots taken from Corporals Corner's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on any image will take you to the original video.
If your BIC lighter were to get wet, it would no longer work. Fortunately, drying it out by repeatedly blowing into it will allow it to work as normal. Clicking on any image from above will take you to Shawn's YouTube video, where you can see how to deal with this issue.
When out of fuel -
If your BIC lighter were to get wet, it would no longer work. Fortunately, drying it out by repeatedly blowing into it will allow it to work as normal. Clicking on any image from above will take you to Shawn's YouTube video, where you can see how to deal with this issue.
When out of fuel -
The images above are screenshots taken from David Canterbury's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on any image will take you to the original video.
When a disposable lighter is depleted of fuel, it should still be able to produce sparks. If this is the case, you can use the plastic shell of the lighter as ignitable material and the flint inside the lighter as a combustion device to ignite it. Simply scrape the outer shell of the BIC lighter with a sharp-edged object to create a generous pile of plastic shavings. Then, gently and repeatedly turn the spark wheel back and forth. Doing this will create ferrocerium shavings, similar to "the scrape" technique from the ferrocerium rod section. Once you have a generous pile of ferrocerium shavings, drop them on top of the plastic shavings, and while holding the lighter close to the heaped pile, swiftly striking the spark wheel will ignite them. To see this technique demonstrated, clicking on any of the images above will take you to David's YouTube video.
Note: The sparks from an empty lighter will also be able to ignite anything delicate, like charred material. Charred material is discussed in the flint and steel section below.
Fuel preservation -
When a disposable lighter is depleted of fuel, it should still be able to produce sparks. If this is the case, you can use the plastic shell of the lighter as ignitable material and the flint inside the lighter as a combustion device to ignite it. Simply scrape the outer shell of the BIC lighter with a sharp-edged object to create a generous pile of plastic shavings. Then, gently and repeatedly turn the spark wheel back and forth. Doing this will create ferrocerium shavings, similar to "the scrape" technique from the ferrocerium rod section. Once you have a generous pile of ferrocerium shavings, drop them on top of the plastic shavings, and while holding the lighter close to the heaped pile, swiftly striking the spark wheel will ignite them. To see this technique demonstrated, clicking on any of the images above will take you to David's YouTube video.
Note: The sparks from an empty lighter will also be able to ignite anything delicate, like charred material. Charred material is discussed in the flint and steel section below.
Fuel preservation -
The images above are screenshots taken from BlackScoutSurvival's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
When packing a disposable lighter in your backpack, remember to be mindful of the gas lever, as you do not want unwanted gas to leak out. As you can see in image 2, BlackScoutSurvival uses a rubber O ring to prevent unwanted gas from escaping.
Honorable mention(2) -
When packing a disposable lighter in your backpack, remember to be mindful of the gas lever, as you do not want unwanted gas to leak out. As you can see in image 2, BlackScoutSurvival uses a rubber O ring to prevent unwanted gas from escaping.
Honorable mention(2) -
The images above are screenshots taken from Corporals Corner's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on any image will take you to the original video.
There are also products like the "Exotac FireSleeve" available for purchase. This sleeve will protect your lighter from damage, prevent unwanted gas from being released, and make your lighter waterproof for 30 minutes to a depth of one meter. One unique feature of this sleeve is the gas lock strap. Striking the spark wheel and pressing down on the gas lever simultaneously will produce a flame. Sliding the gas lock strap over the gas lever will keep the flame going without you having to manually hold down on the lever, allowing you to ignite material comfortably. I can confirm that these sleeves are well-built, as I own a couple myself. However, they are quite expensive, considering they are being bought for a disposable lighter. The price is the only negative I can think of.
There are also products like the "Exotac FireSleeve" available for purchase. This sleeve will protect your lighter from damage, prevent unwanted gas from being released, and make your lighter waterproof for 30 minutes to a depth of one meter. One unique feature of this sleeve is the gas lock strap. Striking the spark wheel and pressing down on the gas lever simultaneously will produce a flame. Sliding the gas lock strap over the gas lever will keep the flame going without you having to manually hold down on the lever, allowing you to ignite material comfortably. I can confirm that these sleeves are well-built, as I own a couple myself. However, they are quite expensive, considering they are being bought for a disposable lighter. The price is the only negative I can think of.
The image above was taken from the BIC website. Clicking on the image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
Lastly, I wanted to mention the existence of lighters with an extended metal tube, like the one in the image above. The long tube will keep your hand away from the flame, making it safer and more comfortable to ignite material, as it can sometimes be a little awkward with a regular BIC. A regular BIC lighter will, however, have a smaller profile and weigh less, making it more packable than a lighter with an extended metal tube.
3) Matches -
Lastly, I wanted to mention the existence of lighters with an extended metal tube, like the one in the image above. The long tube will keep your hand away from the flame, making it safer and more comfortable to ignite material, as it can sometimes be a little awkward with a regular BIC. A regular BIC lighter will, however, have a smaller profile and weigh less, making it more packable than a lighter with an extended metal tube.
3) Matches -
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
Matches are another convenient way to start a fire, as they are able to produce a flame. There are two types of matches: safety matches and strike-anywhere matches. Safety matches are designed to be struck against a specially created surface, usually found on the outside of a matchbox, as seen in image 1. Strike-anywhere matches, on the other hand, can be struck against any surface that will create friction, like a stone, slab, brick, etc. Strike-anywhere matches can be dangerous, especially in the hands of a novice, which is why I will be focusing on safety matches in this section.
How to ignite material -
Matches are another convenient way to start a fire, as they are able to produce a flame. There are two types of matches: safety matches and strike-anywhere matches. Safety matches are designed to be struck against a specially created surface, usually found on the outside of a matchbox, as seen in image 1. Strike-anywhere matches, on the other hand, can be struck against any surface that will create friction, like a stone, slab, brick, etc. Strike-anywhere matches can be dangerous, especially in the hands of a novice, which is why I will be focusing on safety matches in this section.
How to ignite material -
The images above are screenshots taken from Trailagain's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
Striking a safety match against the specially created surface on a matchbox will ignite the match. Holding the lit match to an ignitable material will cause it to catch and burn, giving you a short window to build a fire.
Two kinds of matches -
Striking a safety match against the specially created surface on a matchbox will ignite the match. Holding the lit match to an ignitable material will cause it to catch and burn, giving you a short window to build a fire.
Two kinds of matches -
Image 1 was taken by me from my smartphone. Image 2 was taken from the UCO GEAR website. Clicking on image 2 will take you to the appropriate image webpage.
There are two main types of safety matches: regular matches and stormproof matches. Stormproof matches are more powerful than regular matches, as they have a noticeably longer burn time. In addition, they are able to ignite and burn in windy and rainy conditions, unlike regular matches. A lit stormproof match will remain lit even after being submerged underwater, though I have read reviews online that refute this statement. There are many variations of both regular matches and stormproof matches, so there may be a difference in burn times. On top of that, the quality may vary from brand to brand. If stormproof matches interest you, I recommend looking into the UCO or ZIPPO brands.
You will not have many issues getting a fire started with stormproof matches, though I cannot say the same for regular matches. As a result, I will present information that will increase your chances of getting a fire started with regular matches below.
How to properly use regular matches -
There are two main types of safety matches: regular matches and stormproof matches. Stormproof matches are more powerful than regular matches, as they have a noticeably longer burn time. In addition, they are able to ignite and burn in windy and rainy conditions, unlike regular matches. A lit stormproof match will remain lit even after being submerged underwater, though I have read reviews online that refute this statement. There are many variations of both regular matches and stormproof matches, so there may be a difference in burn times. On top of that, the quality may vary from brand to brand. If stormproof matches interest you, I recommend looking into the UCO or ZIPPO brands.
You will not have many issues getting a fire started with stormproof matches, though I cannot say the same for regular matches. As a result, I will present information that will increase your chances of getting a fire started with regular matches below.
How to properly use regular matches -
The images above are screenshots taken from BBC Studio's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on any image will take you to the original video.
Regular matches can easily break if you strike them with bad technique, as shown in image 1. Supporting the tip of a match with your finger and then striking it will prevent this from happening, as seen in image 2. Once you successfully strike the match, the finger supporting the tip should come off, unless you are planning an early cremation service. Once the match has ignited, using your hands as a windshield will allow the flame to stabilize and become stronger so that it does not easily go out.
Quick tip -
Regular matches can easily break if you strike them with bad technique, as shown in image 1. Supporting the tip of a match with your finger and then striking it will prevent this from happening, as seen in image 2. Once you successfully strike the match, the finger supporting the tip should come off, unless you are planning an early cremation service. Once the match has ignited, using your hands as a windshield will allow the flame to stabilize and become stronger so that it does not easily go out.
Quick tip -
The images above are screenshots taken from RobEvans Woodsman's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
As you already know, regular matches are not as powerful as stormproof matches. As a result, striking two regular matches together will give you a better chance of starting a fire.
Wet matches -
As you already know, regular matches are not as powerful as stormproof matches. As a result, striking two regular matches together will give you a better chance of starting a fire.
Wet matches -
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
If your matches got wet, the tips on them could begin to deteriorate, rendering them useless. A precaution you can take is to waterproof the tips by covering them in wax, which can be done with the help of a cheap tealight candle. Simply lighting the tealight candle will melt the wax, allowing you to dip the tip of your match in it, as shown in image 2. The wax coating will protect the tip from moisture.
Note: When it comes time to ignite a match with a waxed tip, you may need to remove some of the wax before striking it.
If your matches got wet, the tips on them could begin to deteriorate, rendering them useless. A precaution you can take is to waterproof the tips by covering them in wax, which can be done with the help of a cheap tealight candle. Simply lighting the tealight candle will melt the wax, allowing you to dip the tip of your match in it, as shown in image 2. The wax coating will protect the tip from moisture.
Note: When it comes time to ignite a match with a waxed tip, you may need to remove some of the wax before striking it.
The images above were taken from the UCO GEAR website. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
An alternative precaution is to buy an airtight match case and carry the matches inside it. A rubber O ring, as shown in image 1, will indicate that the container is airtight. An airtight case will prevent moisture from coming into contact with the matches, keeping them safe and dry. In addition, placing your matches in a hard case will protect them from being crushed when carrying them in a pack, as they can be fragile.
Note: Stormproof matches will usually come with an airtight case. Regular matches do not.
An alternative precaution is to buy an airtight match case and carry the matches inside it. A rubber O ring, as shown in image 1, will indicate that the container is airtight. An airtight case will prevent moisture from coming into contact with the matches, keeping them safe and dry. In addition, placing your matches in a hard case will protect them from being crushed when carrying them in a pack, as they can be fragile.
Note: Stormproof matches will usually come with an airtight case. Regular matches do not.
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
If you buy an airtight container for your regular matches, the striking surfaces on the matchbox should be carefully cut and the matches removed so they can be placed inside the container. If you are worried about the matches accidentally scraping against the striking surface and igniting (while in the container), there is nothing to fear. An airtight container prevents oxygen from entering, keeping the matches from igniting. Oxygen is needed to start a fire.
4) Flint & Steel -
If you buy an airtight container for your regular matches, the striking surfaces on the matchbox should be carefully cut and the matches removed so they can be placed inside the container. If you are worried about the matches accidentally scraping against the striking surface and igniting (while in the container), there is nothing to fear. An airtight container prevents oxygen from entering, keeping the matches from igniting. Oxygen is needed to start a fire.
4) Flint & Steel -
The images above are screenshots taken from Coalcracker Bushcraft's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on any image will take you to the original video.
Flint and steel have been around for about 2000 years, making it a traditional way of starting a fire. Striking a piece of steel against a shard of flint will create sparks. To start a fire using flint and steel, you need a total of four items.
The four items -
Flint and steel have been around for about 2000 years, making it a traditional way of starting a fire. Striking a piece of steel against a shard of flint will create sparks. To start a fire using flint and steel, you need a total of four items.
The four items -
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
[1] The first item is a hardened piece of high-carbon steel.
[2] The second item is a hard rock. Flint is a hard rock often used with steel, hence the name "flint and steel." In reality, any rock can be used as long as it is harder than the piece of steel so that it can remove microscopic metal particles from it. When steel is struck against a hard rock, metal particles are removed. These tiny metal fragments oxidize, resulting in sparks.
[3] The third item is charred material. Charred material is material that has not been fully consumed by a fire and is only partially burned, which is why it has that black colour in image 3. A carbonaceous material, or anything rich in carbon, can be charred. Soft, spongey materials like punk wood, hoof fungus, and the inner pith of certain plants will be more effective at catching a spark produced by flint and steel once they are charred. The sparks produced by flint and steel are not as hot, which is why delicate material, like charred material, is needed to catch them. Once the charred material catches a spark, it will give you an ember, which brings us to the fourth item.
[4] The fourth and last item is a tinder bundle. Tinder bundles are commonly made from dry, fibrous materials like dried grass or shredded tree bark. Such materials are unravelled, roughened up, and processed to increase their surface area, allowing them to trap heat and successfully combust. In image 4, I unravelled some jute twine to create a tinder bundle. Once the tinder bundle is prepared, it is ready to accept an ember and combust.
Summary: Igniting charred material with flint and steel will give you an ember. The ember is then placed inside a tinder bundle and blown to flame, from which you build a fire.
Below, I will present images and explain this in further detail.
How it works -
[1] The first item is a hardened piece of high-carbon steel.
[2] The second item is a hard rock. Flint is a hard rock often used with steel, hence the name "flint and steel." In reality, any rock can be used as long as it is harder than the piece of steel so that it can remove microscopic metal particles from it. When steel is struck against a hard rock, metal particles are removed. These tiny metal fragments oxidize, resulting in sparks.
[3] The third item is charred material. Charred material is material that has not been fully consumed by a fire and is only partially burned, which is why it has that black colour in image 3. A carbonaceous material, or anything rich in carbon, can be charred. Soft, spongey materials like punk wood, hoof fungus, and the inner pith of certain plants will be more effective at catching a spark produced by flint and steel once they are charred. The sparks produced by flint and steel are not as hot, which is why delicate material, like charred material, is needed to catch them. Once the charred material catches a spark, it will give you an ember, which brings us to the fourth item.
[4] The fourth and last item is a tinder bundle. Tinder bundles are commonly made from dry, fibrous materials like dried grass or shredded tree bark. Such materials are unravelled, roughened up, and processed to increase their surface area, allowing them to trap heat and successfully combust. In image 4, I unravelled some jute twine to create a tinder bundle. Once the tinder bundle is prepared, it is ready to accept an ember and combust.
Summary: Igniting charred material with flint and steel will give you an ember. The ember is then placed inside a tinder bundle and blown to flame, from which you build a fire.
Below, I will present images and explain this in further detail.
How it works -
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
Before starting a flint and steel fire, preparing the tinder bundle in advance is wise. Once that is done, place some charred material on top of a shard of flint close to the edge, like in image 1. Then strike your steel against the same flint edge in an arcing manner, letting your wrist do most of the work. Doing this should produce sparks and catch the charred material sitting on top, like in image 2. If the material does not catch immediately, continue to strike your steel until it does. Once the charred material has caught a spark, place it in the tinder bundle and provide it with oxygen by blowing into it. This will cause the tinder bundle to heat up and combust, giving you a flame. In image 4, I placed some processed wood, which I had prepared earlier, on top of the burning tinder bundle to keep the fire going.
How to char material -
Before starting a flint and steel fire, preparing the tinder bundle in advance is wise. Once that is done, place some charred material on top of a shard of flint close to the edge, like in image 1. Then strike your steel against the same flint edge in an arcing manner, letting your wrist do most of the work. Doing this should produce sparks and catch the charred material sitting on top, like in image 2. If the material does not catch immediately, continue to strike your steel until it does. Once the charred material has caught a spark, place it in the tinder bundle and provide it with oxygen by blowing into it. This will cause the tinder bundle to heat up and combust, giving you a flame. In image 4, I placed some processed wood, which I had prepared earlier, on top of the burning tinder bundle to keep the fire going.
How to char material -
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
Anything natural can be charred. In the demonstration above, I charred a 100% cotton vest. In the field, you can char items like branches, twigs, plants, etc. You will have to experiment and see what works well with flint and steel. In the meantime, click here to watch Alfie's "charring" YouTube video for more information.
To char, you will need some natural material, a metal tin with a small hole, and fire. Place the material inside the tin, put the lid on, and place it inside a fire. Once in the fire, you will see smoke and a flame come out of the hole. The small hole in the tin allows moisture inside the material to escape without being totally consumed by the fire. When no more flame comes out of the hole, the charring process is complete. Remove the tin from the fire and allow it to cool. Take out and break a piece of the material to test it. If it catches a spark, it charred well. If not, you can always put it back in the fire to cook some more.
Note: You can char material without a metal tin. Clicking here will take you to David West's YouTube video, in which he demonstrates this.
Alternative ways to ignite charred material -
Anything natural can be charred. In the demonstration above, I charred a 100% cotton vest. In the field, you can char items like branches, twigs, plants, etc. You will have to experiment and see what works well with flint and steel. In the meantime, click here to watch Alfie's "charring" YouTube video for more information.
To char, you will need some natural material, a metal tin with a small hole, and fire. Place the material inside the tin, put the lid on, and place it inside a fire. Once in the fire, you will see smoke and a flame come out of the hole. The small hole in the tin allows moisture inside the material to escape without being totally consumed by the fire. When no more flame comes out of the hole, the charring process is complete. Remove the tin from the fire and allow it to cool. Take out and break a piece of the material to test it. If it catches a spark, it charred well. If not, you can always put it back in the fire to cook some more.
Note: You can char material without a metal tin. Clicking here will take you to David West's YouTube video, in which he demonstrates this.
Alternative ways to ignite charred material -
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
Charred material is very delicate and fragile, making it very easy to ignite. Besides flint and steel, it can be ignited by a ferro rod, a lighter, an empty lighter that sparks, matches, and even a magnifying lens. Directing sunlight onto some charred material via the magnifying lens will ignite it, though the sun must be out to use this method.
Note: Cotton material charred at home will be very easy to ignite, whereas natural materials charred in the field can be difficult.
Broken ferro rod -
Charred material is very delicate and fragile, making it very easy to ignite. Besides flint and steel, it can be ignited by a ferro rod, a lighter, an empty lighter that sparks, matches, and even a magnifying lens. Directing sunlight onto some charred material via the magnifying lens will ignite it, though the sun must be out to use this method.
Note: Cotton material charred at home will be very easy to ignite, whereas natural materials charred in the field can be difficult.
Broken ferro rod -
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
I will now address the broken ferro rod problem I mentioned above in the ferrocerium rod section. A broken ferro rod will be short, meaning it will produce fewer sparks as each stroke will remove less material. As a result, it will have difficulty igniting stubborn materials. However, delicate materials, like charred items, will be easy to ignite. Simply striking the small ferro rod close to some charred material will effortlessly ignite it, as seen in the images above.
I will now address the broken ferro rod problem I mentioned above in the ferrocerium rod section. A broken ferro rod will be short, meaning it will produce fewer sparks as each stroke will remove less material. As a result, it will have difficulty igniting stubborn materials. However, delicate materials, like charred items, will be easy to ignite. Simply striking the small ferro rod close to some charred material will effortlessly ignite it, as seen in the images above.
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
If you are unable to grip a small, broken ferro rod adequately, then above, I have presented a potential solution. You are going to need two pieces of wood. Make a slit in one of the pieces of wood big enough for one end of the rod to fit in. Then make another slit in the second piece of wood for the other end of the rod to fit in. Pin and balance the broken rod between the two pieces of wood and place some charred material close to it, as seen in image 3. This should give you adequate leverage and allow for a longer stroke, easily igniting the charred material.
Note: Do not throw away a broken ferro rod, as it can always be used to ignite delicate materials like charred items.
Alright, back to flint and steel.
Sparks explained -
If you are unable to grip a small, broken ferro rod adequately, then above, I have presented a potential solution. You are going to need two pieces of wood. Make a slit in one of the pieces of wood big enough for one end of the rod to fit in. Then make another slit in the second piece of wood for the other end of the rod to fit in. Pin and balance the broken rod between the two pieces of wood and place some charred material close to it, as seen in image 3. This should give you adequate leverage and allow for a longer stroke, easily igniting the charred material.
Note: Do not throw away a broken ferro rod, as it can always be used to ignite delicate materials like charred items.
Alright, back to flint and steel.
Sparks explained -
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
The sparks produced by flint and steel are not as hot as those produced by a ferro rod. For instance, the sparks of a ferro rod can easily ignite a tinder bundle made from jute twine, whereas the sparks of flint and steel cannot. A delicate material, like a charred item, will always be required as a middleman to start a fire when using flint and steel.
You may be wondering if there is a material that flint and steel can ignite without it being charred, and the answer is yes, there is. Hoof fungus, also known as amadou, does not need to be charred for it to ignite from the sparks of flint and steel. Click here to see this.
Shapes and sizes -
The sparks produced by flint and steel are not as hot as those produced by a ferro rod. For instance, the sparks of a ferro rod can easily ignite a tinder bundle made from jute twine, whereas the sparks of flint and steel cannot. A delicate material, like a charred item, will always be required as a middleman to start a fire when using flint and steel.
You may be wondering if there is a material that flint and steel can ignite without it being charred, and the answer is yes, there is. Hoof fungus, also known as amadou, does not need to be charred for it to ignite from the sparks of flint and steel. Click here to see this.
Shapes and sizes -
The image used above was taken by me from my smartphone.
Steel strikers come in many shapes and sizes and can affect the quality of the sparks produced. Bigger steels will have more contact with a piece of flint with each strike, allowing more material to come off the steel and oxidize, producing more sparks than smaller steels. A steel striker with a pronounced curve on it will also make more contact with a shard of flint, producing more sparks. Both strikers in the image above do not have a pronounced curve. The smaller striker does have a slight curve, though not enough to give you a major advantage.
Note: More sparks mean a better chance of ignition.
If you are interested in the unique steel designs shown in the image above, I recommend checking out the BeaverBushcraft website.
Quality of the rock -
Steel strikers come in many shapes and sizes and can affect the quality of the sparks produced. Bigger steels will have more contact with a piece of flint with each strike, allowing more material to come off the steel and oxidize, producing more sparks than smaller steels. A steel striker with a pronounced curve on it will also make more contact with a shard of flint, producing more sparks. Both strikers in the image above do not have a pronounced curve. The smaller striker does have a slight curve, though not enough to give you a major advantage.
Note: More sparks mean a better chance of ignition.
If you are interested in the unique steel designs shown in the image above, I recommend checking out the BeaverBushcraft website.
Quality of the rock -
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
The quality of the rock is another variable that will affect the quality of the sparks produced. A rock with sharp edges will effectively remove more material from a steel striker than a rock with dull edges, producing more sparks. A rock with dull edges may not remove any material from a steel striker, producing no sparks.
Reusing the same rock -
The quality of the rock is another variable that will affect the quality of the sparks produced. A rock with sharp edges will effectively remove more material from a steel striker than a rock with dull edges, producing more sparks. A rock with dull edges may not remove any material from a steel striker, producing no sparks.
Reusing the same rock -
Image 1 is a screenshot taken from grierwolfe's YouTube video. Image 2 is a screenshot taken from Coalcracker Bushcraft's YouTube video. Images 3 & 4 are screenshots taken from David West's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on each image will take you to the original video.
The rock used with your steel will eventually have no sharp edges left on it, preventing you from producing sparks. There are two ways to tackle this issue.
1) You can chip the dull edges of your rock, leaving you with sharp edges. Clicking on images 1 and 2 will direct you to two YouTube videos that teach you how to do this.
2) You can split the rock by hitting it with a hard object (a rock, the back of an axe head, etc.). Doing this should break the rock or chip smaller flakes from it, leaving you with sharp edges.
Even if you use either one of these solutions, the rock will eventually wear down to the point where you cannot reuse it. You cannot stop the rock from wearing, but you can slow the process down by using the light grazing technique. Instead of striking the rock with a lot of force, simply grazing the flint's edge with the flick of your wrist will effectively produce sparks and extend the flint's life. That said, this will just prolong the inevitable.
Any hard rock -
The rock used with your steel will eventually have no sharp edges left on it, preventing you from producing sparks. There are two ways to tackle this issue.
1) You can chip the dull edges of your rock, leaving you with sharp edges. Clicking on images 1 and 2 will direct you to two YouTube videos that teach you how to do this.
2) You can split the rock by hitting it with a hard object (a rock, the back of an axe head, etc.). Doing this should break the rock or chip smaller flakes from it, leaving you with sharp edges.
Even if you use either one of these solutions, the rock will eventually wear down to the point where you cannot reuse it. You cannot stop the rock from wearing, but you can slow the process down by using the light grazing technique. Instead of striking the rock with a lot of force, simply grazing the flint's edge with the flick of your wrist will effectively produce sparks and extend the flint's life. That said, this will just prolong the inevitable.
Any hard rock -
Image 1 was taken from Pixabay and is free for commercial use. Image 2 is a screenshot taken from David Canterbury's YouTube video. It is used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on each image will take you to the original source.
Any hard rock can be used with a steel striker to produce sparks, including rocks you will find on the ground outdoors. Note: I said any hard rock, not just any rock. The rock will need to be hard enough to remove material from steel in order to produce sparks. How can you tell if a rock is hard enough? Simple. Strike the rock with your steel striker. If it produces sparks, well done. If it does not, keep trying rocks until you find one that works.
[2] A sharpening stone is used to sharpen a knife or, in other words, remove metal from steel. If it is hard enough to remove metal from a knife, it will be hard enough to remove material from a steel striker. David Canterbury presented this example in one of his YouTube videos. Striking a steel striker with a sharpening stone will produce sparks. Clicking on image 2 will take you to his video.
Any hard rock can be used with a steel striker to produce sparks, including rocks you will find on the ground outdoors. Note: I said any hard rock, not just any rock. The rock will need to be hard enough to remove material from steel in order to produce sparks. How can you tell if a rock is hard enough? Simple. Strike the rock with your steel striker. If it produces sparks, well done. If it does not, keep trying rocks until you find one that works.
[2] A sharpening stone is used to sharpen a knife or, in other words, remove metal from steel. If it is hard enough to remove metal from a knife, it will be hard enough to remove material from a steel striker. David Canterbury presented this example in one of his YouTube videos. Striking a steel striker with a sharpening stone will produce sparks. Clicking on image 2 will take you to his video.
The images above are screenshots taken from Ultimate Survivalist's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on any image will take you to the original video.
A knife made from high-carbon steel, like 1095, is very popular amongst bushcrafters and survivalists because it can be used as a steel striker to produce sparks in an emergency. Simply hitting a hard rock against the spine of a high-carbon steel knife will produce sparks. Unfortunately, doing this often can ruin the knife's spine. Clicking on any image from above will take you to the Ultimate Survivalist's YouTube video, in which he demonstrates this.
Honorable mention(1) -
A knife made from high-carbon steel, like 1095, is very popular amongst bushcrafters and survivalists because it can be used as a steel striker to produce sparks in an emergency. Simply hitting a hard rock against the spine of a high-carbon steel knife will produce sparks. Unfortunately, doing this often can ruin the knife's spine. Clicking on any image from above will take you to the Ultimate Survivalist's YouTube video, in which he demonstrates this.
Honorable mention(1) -
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
A while back, I found an old, rusty file at my home. Files are usually made from high-carbon steel and tend to be extremely hard, the perfect criterion for a steel striker. I struck it against a piece of flint to test it, and it produced an incredible shower of sparks. After I restored the file, it was time to turn it into a couple of steel strikers. I first tried cutting the file with my hacksaw but failed because the file was immensely hard. I started looking for ways to cut a hard metal file without any power tools and ran into a David West YouTube video in which he used a hammer to shatter a file. Click here to watch that video if you are interested. Unable to find a hammer, I used the poll of my hatchet to shatter the file.
I tried to strategically target certain areas of the file so the strikers would be a certain length. Everything went according to plan except for that triangular piece in image 3. I had to hit that particular area on the file twice because my first swing did not break it. I believe my first hit fractured an area on the file, and my second hit broke a different part of the file. The second hit's impact must have broken the fractured part as well. If my second hit were to land in the exact same spot as my first hit, there probably would not have been a broken triangular piece.
Note: Before striking the file to break it, wrapping it up in a cloth will make it safer, as nothing will go flying and hit you in the face.
A while back, I found an old, rusty file at my home. Files are usually made from high-carbon steel and tend to be extremely hard, the perfect criterion for a steel striker. I struck it against a piece of flint to test it, and it produced an incredible shower of sparks. After I restored the file, it was time to turn it into a couple of steel strikers. I first tried cutting the file with my hacksaw but failed because the file was immensely hard. I started looking for ways to cut a hard metal file without any power tools and ran into a David West YouTube video in which he used a hammer to shatter a file. Click here to watch that video if you are interested. Unable to find a hammer, I used the poll of my hatchet to shatter the file.
I tried to strategically target certain areas of the file so the strikers would be a certain length. Everything went according to plan except for that triangular piece in image 3. I had to hit that particular area on the file twice because my first swing did not break it. I believe my first hit fractured an area on the file, and my second hit broke a different part of the file. The second hit's impact must have broken the fractured part as well. If my second hit were to land in the exact same spot as my first hit, there probably would not have been a broken triangular piece.
Note: Before striking the file to break it, wrapping it up in a cloth will make it safer, as nothing will go flying and hit you in the face.
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
So you can understand how effective a striker this file is, I used the smaller piece with a dull flint when testing it. As you can see in image 2, it ignited the charred material with no problem. It is the best steel striker I currently have. These broken pieces of the file have uneven, rough edges. I made them smooth by grinding them back and forth on some concrete slabs outside.
A striker made from a file can not only function as a steel striker but also as a mini file. You will not have much leverage when using it as a file, though it can be used for smaller tasks such as rounding off edges on wooden projects, removing ridges from a ferro rod, and so on. If you are interested in making your own striker from a file, the Nicholson brand files seem to throw really good sparks. Click here to see this. The file I found at home has no markings or logos.
YouTube channel recommendations -
So you can understand how effective a striker this file is, I used the smaller piece with a dull flint when testing it. As you can see in image 2, it ignited the charred material with no problem. It is the best steel striker I currently have. These broken pieces of the file have uneven, rough edges. I made them smooth by grinding them back and forth on some concrete slabs outside.
A striker made from a file can not only function as a steel striker but also as a mini file. You will not have much leverage when using it as a file, though it can be used for smaller tasks such as rounding off edges on wooden projects, removing ridges from a ferro rod, and so on. If you are interested in making your own striker from a file, the Nicholson brand files seem to throw really good sparks. Click here to see this. The file I found at home has no markings or logos.
YouTube channel recommendations -
Image 1 is a screenshot of David West's YouTube profile. Image 2 is a screenshot of NW Primate's YouTube profile. Image 3 is a screenshot of Orion's YouTube profile. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate YouTube profile.
Starting a fire with flint and steel can be a fascinating and satisfying experience. Though I have covered all the basics of flint and steel, I recommend three YouTube channels run by three knowledgeable individuals. You will learn a lot more from watching their videos. Clicking on each image from above will take you to the appropriate YouTube channel.
5) Bow drill -
Starting a fire with flint and steel can be a fascinating and satisfying experience. Though I have covered all the basics of flint and steel, I recommend three YouTube channels run by three knowledgeable individuals. You will learn a lot more from watching their videos. Clicking on each image from above will take you to the appropriate YouTube channel.
5) Bow drill -
The images above are screenshots taken from David West's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
The last combustion device I want to mention is the bow drill. The bow drill method entails rubbing two pieces of wood together, generating friction to produce an ember. The ember produced is placed inside a tinder bundle and blown to flame. Starting a fire using the bow drill method should be a last resort. This should not be your primary method for fire starting, though it is a useful skill to learn and master.
The last combustion device I want to mention is the bow drill. The bow drill method entails rubbing two pieces of wood together, generating friction to produce an ember. The ember produced is placed inside a tinder bundle and blown to flame. Starting a fire using the bow drill method should be a last resort. This should not be your primary method for fire starting, though it is a useful skill to learn and master.
Instead of going over the bow drill method, I would like to present three YouTube videos and a blog post that will explain it well. Corporals Corner, The MCQBushcraft Archive and David Canterbury have excellent YouTube videos on the bow drill method. Paul Kirtley's blog will also provide great insight to assist you further. Clicking on each image from above will take you to the appropriate source. For further knowledge, David West and NW Primate also feature the bow drill method on their channels. I do recommend checking them out as well.
The image above is a screenshot taken from rwalker4416's YouTube video. It is used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on the image will take you to the original video.
Lastly, I recommend watching rwalker4416's YouTube video in which he creates a bow drill set from scratch. Clicking on the image above will take you to his YouTube video.
Ignitable materials -
Lastly, I recommend watching rwalker4416's YouTube video in which he creates a bow drill set from scratch. Clicking on the image above will take you to his YouTube video.
Ignitable materials -
The image used above was created by me in Microsoft Paint 3D.
An ignitable material is a material that is delicate enough to be ignited by a combustion device. Once ignited, it will give you a couple of seconds or a few minutes to build a fire, depending on your choice of ignitable material and how you choose to prepare it. This is why preparation is key when it comes to building a fire.
I will split ignitable materials into two sections: natural tinders and commercial firestarters. Natural tinders are materials found outdoors that can be used to start a fire, whereas commercial firestarters are manufactured and sold by companies to help you start a fire. Note: Natural tinders are natural, whereas commercial firestarters are impregnated with waxes and accelerants.
I will start with natural tinders, but first, I would like to present some information that will help you better understand ignitable materials.
An ignitable material is a material that is delicate enough to be ignited by a combustion device. Once ignited, it will give you a couple of seconds or a few minutes to build a fire, depending on your choice of ignitable material and how you choose to prepare it. This is why preparation is key when it comes to building a fire.
I will split ignitable materials into two sections: natural tinders and commercial firestarters. Natural tinders are materials found outdoors that can be used to start a fire, whereas commercial firestarters are manufactured and sold by companies to help you start a fire. Note: Natural tinders are natural, whereas commercial firestarters are impregnated with waxes and accelerants.
I will start with natural tinders, but first, I would like to present some information that will help you better understand ignitable materials.
The images above were taken from Pixabay and are free for commercial use. Clicking on each image will take you to the original image and uploader.
A combustion device will produce a flame, sparks, or an ember. Depending on the combustion device you use, the ignitable material will need to be prepared accordingly for it to ignite. Wood, for instance, is a natural tinder, which I will discuss below. However, a big, thick piece of wood will not be ignited by a flame, sparks, or even an ember. For wood to ignite, it needs to be processed fine enough. How fine it must be processed will depend on the combustion device. When using a combustion device that produces a flame, like a lighter, you can get away with slightly thicker prepared wood. However, when using a combustion device that produces sparks, like a ferrocerium rod, the wood must be processed even finer for it to ignite.
A combustion device will produce a flame, sparks, or an ember. Depending on the combustion device you use, the ignitable material will need to be prepared accordingly for it to ignite. Wood, for instance, is a natural tinder, which I will discuss below. However, a big, thick piece of wood will not be ignited by a flame, sparks, or even an ember. For wood to ignite, it needs to be processed fine enough. How fine it must be processed will depend on the combustion device. When using a combustion device that produces a flame, like a lighter, you can get away with slightly thicker prepared wood. However, when using a combustion device that produces sparks, like a ferrocerium rod, the wood must be processed even finer for it to ignite.
The images above are screenshots taken from Reallybigmonkey1's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
The finer you process an ignitable material, the easier it will be to ignite. However, the burn time will be awfully short, meaning the flame will not last very long, and you will have an extremely short window to build a fire. The flame will last as long as there is material to be consumed by it. It just so happens that fine, fluffy materials ignite easily and burn out quickly, whereas thicker, compressed materials burn for much longer, though they can be difficult to ignite.
Now that you have some basic knowledge of ignitable materials, I will cover various natural tinders and demonstrate how they can be prepared for ignition below.
Natural tinders -
1) Wood -
Feathersticks -
The finer you process an ignitable material, the easier it will be to ignite. However, the burn time will be awfully short, meaning the flame will not last very long, and you will have an extremely short window to build a fire. The flame will last as long as there is material to be consumed by it. It just so happens that fine, fluffy materials ignite easily and burn out quickly, whereas thicker, compressed materials burn for much longer, though they can be difficult to ignite.
Now that you have some basic knowledge of ignitable materials, I will cover various natural tinders and demonstrate how they can be prepared for ignition below.
Natural tinders -
1) Wood -
Feathersticks -
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
Wood can be processed into thin, curly strips known as "feathers," which can be whittled using a knife blade. They can be made thick or thin. Thinner feathers, as seen in image 3, will be easy to ignite, though they will burn out quickly. Thicker feathers will burn for longer, though they can be difficult to ignite. Making both thick and thin feathers will effectively work together. The thinner feathers will ignite easily, and the thicker feathers can then be added to the flame to extend the burn time, giving you adequate time to build a fire.
Note: Carving multiple feathers on a stick of wood is what you call a featherstick.
Wood can be processed into thin, curly strips known as "feathers," which can be whittled using a knife blade. They can be made thick or thin. Thinner feathers, as seen in image 3, will be easy to ignite, though they will burn out quickly. Thicker feathers will burn for longer, though they can be difficult to ignite. Making both thick and thin feathers will effectively work together. The thinner feathers will ignite easily, and the thicker feathers can then be added to the flame to extend the burn time, giving you adequate time to build a fire.
Note: Carving multiple feathers on a stick of wood is what you call a featherstick.
The image used above was taken by me from my smartphone.
It is much easier to make thicker feathers than thinner ones. To create a thick feather, all you have to do is apply a lot of downward force as you glide through the wood. This will cause the blade to bite in deeper, creating a thicker feather. Thinner feathers, on the other hand, require better control and maneuverability of the blade. The portion of the blade that is closer to the handle and ends before the belly of the blade starts will be effective for making thicker feathers. The remaining portion, closer to the tip of the knife, will be effective for making thinner feathers.
Whether you can produce nice, thin, curly feathers depends on your skill level and the quality of the wood. Feathersticks are a fine way to start a fire, as long as you have the appropriate wood available to you. Not every wood will allow you to carve neat, curly strips. Instead, some woods will produce crumbly, dusty, powdery-looking feathers, regardless of your skill level.
Scrapings -
It is much easier to make thicker feathers than thinner ones. To create a thick feather, all you have to do is apply a lot of downward force as you glide through the wood. This will cause the blade to bite in deeper, creating a thicker feather. Thinner feathers, on the other hand, require better control and maneuverability of the blade. The portion of the blade that is closer to the handle and ends before the belly of the blade starts will be effective for making thicker feathers. The remaining portion, closer to the tip of the knife, will be effective for making thinner feathers.
Whether you can produce nice, thin, curly feathers depends on your skill level and the quality of the wood. Feathersticks are a fine way to start a fire, as long as you have the appropriate wood available to you. Not every wood will allow you to carve neat, curly strips. Instead, some woods will produce crumbly, dusty, powdery-looking feathers, regardless of your skill level.
Scrapings -
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
Wood can also be processed into scrapings, which can be achieved by anything with a sharp edge on it. The 90-degree spine of a knife is often used for this task. Simply gliding a sharp edge across some wood will create scrapings. Scrapings are much finer when compared to the thinnest of feathers. They will ignite with incredible ease, though they will burn out very quickly, as seen in image 4. Scrapings do not require much skill to produce as long as you have a sharp edge, though the quality of the wood will affect the quality of the scrapings produced. Some woods will be great for producing scrapings, while others will not.
Note: Some humans may use the word shavings. I use the word scrapings. It's the same thing.
Wood summary -
Wood can also be processed into scrapings, which can be achieved by anything with a sharp edge on it. The 90-degree spine of a knife is often used for this task. Simply gliding a sharp edge across some wood will create scrapings. Scrapings are much finer when compared to the thinnest of feathers. They will ignite with incredible ease, though they will burn out very quickly, as seen in image 4. Scrapings do not require much skill to produce as long as you have a sharp edge, though the quality of the wood will affect the quality of the scrapings produced. Some woods will be great for producing scrapings, while others will not.
Note: Some humans may use the word shavings. I use the word scrapings. It's the same thing.
Wood summary -
The image above was created by me in Microsoft Paint 3D.
[1, 2] Lighters and Matches - Lighters and matches will easily ignite both forms of processed wood (feathersticks and scrapings). Because these combustion devices produce a flame, you can get away with slightly thicker prepared wood. I recommend preparing 4-6 thicker feathersticks and avoiding thinner feathersticks and scrapings because wood does not need to be processed that fine when using a combustion device capable of producing a flame.
[3] Ferrocerium rod - A ferro rod produces sparks, which are not as powerful as a flame. As a result, thinner feathersticks and scrapings will be more favourable when using a ferro rod. Because finer material burns out quickly, preparing a few thicker feathersticks in addition to the finer stuff will extend the burn time.
[4] Flint and steel - The sparks produced by flint and steel are not hot enough to ignite wood, no matter how fine it is processed.
[5, 6] Flint and steel (with charred material) and Bow drill - Both of these combustion devices produce an ember and can ignite wood if it is prepared appropriately. Both grades of feathers (thick and thin) and scrapings can be used to create a tinder bundle. Placing an ember inside a "featherstick tinder bundle" and blowing into it will cause the material to heat up and combust. Below, I have presented images to demonstrate this.
[1, 2] Lighters and Matches - Lighters and matches will easily ignite both forms of processed wood (feathersticks and scrapings). Because these combustion devices produce a flame, you can get away with slightly thicker prepared wood. I recommend preparing 4-6 thicker feathersticks and avoiding thinner feathersticks and scrapings because wood does not need to be processed that fine when using a combustion device capable of producing a flame.
[3] Ferrocerium rod - A ferro rod produces sparks, which are not as powerful as a flame. As a result, thinner feathersticks and scrapings will be more favourable when using a ferro rod. Because finer material burns out quickly, preparing a few thicker feathersticks in addition to the finer stuff will extend the burn time.
[4] Flint and steel - The sparks produced by flint and steel are not hot enough to ignite wood, no matter how fine it is processed.
[5, 6] Flint and steel (with charred material) and Bow drill - Both of these combustion devices produce an ember and can ignite wood if it is prepared appropriately. Both grades of feathers (thick and thin) and scrapings can be used to create a tinder bundle. Placing an ember inside a "featherstick tinder bundle" and blowing into it will cause the material to heat up and combust. Below, I have presented images to demonstrate this.
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
2) Fatwood -
Feathersticks & scrapings -
2) Fatwood -
Feathersticks & scrapings -
The images above are screenshots taken from beinggoodtopeople's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
Like regular wood, fatwood can also be processed into feathersticks and scrapings. The main difference between fatwood and regular wood is that fatwood is naturally impregnated with flammable resin. The resin inside makes it easier for this kind of wood to ignite and allows it to burn for longer than regular wood. The content of the resin will vary from fatwood to fatwood, meaning some pieces of fatwood will be easier to ignite and burn for longer than others.
Fatwood summary -
Like regular wood, fatwood can also be processed into feathersticks and scrapings. The main difference between fatwood and regular wood is that fatwood is naturally impregnated with flammable resin. The resin inside makes it easier for this kind of wood to ignite and allows it to burn for longer than regular wood. The content of the resin will vary from fatwood to fatwood, meaning some pieces of fatwood will be easier to ignite and burn for longer than others.
Fatwood summary -
The image above was created by me in Microsoft Paint 3D.
[1, 2] Lighters and Matches - Lighters and matches will easily ignite both forms of processed fatwood (feathersticks and scrapings). Again, thicker feathersticks will be better suited for these combustion devices.
[3] Ferrocerium rod - A ferro rod can also ignite both forms of processed fatwood. Depending on the resin content, even slightly thicker prepared feathersticks may combust once they come into contact with the sparks of a ferro rod.
[4] Flint and steel - The sparks produced by flint and steel are not hot enough to ignite fatwood, no matter how fine it is processed.
[5, 6] Flint and steel (with charred material) and Bow drill - An ember from either of these combustion devices can technically ignite fatwood, though humans typically do not use an ember to ignite fatwood.
3) Birch bark -
Scrapings -
[1, 2] Lighters and Matches - Lighters and matches will easily ignite both forms of processed fatwood (feathersticks and scrapings). Again, thicker feathersticks will be better suited for these combustion devices.
[3] Ferrocerium rod - A ferro rod can also ignite both forms of processed fatwood. Depending on the resin content, even slightly thicker prepared feathersticks may combust once they come into contact with the sparks of a ferro rod.
[4] Flint and steel - The sparks produced by flint and steel are not hot enough to ignite fatwood, no matter how fine it is processed.
[5, 6] Flint and steel (with charred material) and Bow drill - An ember from either of these combustion devices can technically ignite fatwood, though humans typically do not use an ember to ignite fatwood.
3) Birch bark -
Scrapings -
Image 1 was taken from Pixabay and is free for commercial use. Images 2 & 3 are screenshots taken from Paul Kirtley's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate source.
Birch bark is the outer layer of birch trees. Like fatwood, birch bark contains flammable oils that allow it to easily catch and burn for a decent while. Birch bark can be processed into scrapings by scraping the outer layer (the white side) with a sharp-edged object. In image 2, Paul Kirtley uses his knife blade to scrape the bark to produce birch scrapings.
Torn strips -
Birch bark is the outer layer of birch trees. Like fatwood, birch bark contains flammable oils that allow it to easily catch and burn for a decent while. Birch bark can be processed into scrapings by scraping the outer layer (the white side) with a sharp-edged object. In image 2, Paul Kirtley uses his knife blade to scrape the bark to produce birch scrapings.
Torn strips -
The images above are screenshots taken from AlfieAesthetics's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
Alternatively, birch bark can be torn into strips by hand and be prepared that way.
Birch bark summary -
Alternatively, birch bark can be torn into strips by hand and be prepared that way.
Birch bark summary -
The image above was created by me in Microsoft Paint 3D.
[1, 2] Lighter and Matches - A lighter and matches will easily ignite both forms of processed birch bark. I recommend avoiding scrapings and sticking with torn strips when using a lighter or matches.
[3] Ferrocerium rod - A ferro rod can ignite birch scrapings and thinner torn strips, though scrapings will be easier to ignite. Torn strips can be added after igniting the scrapings to increase burn time.
[4] Flint and steel - The sparks produced by flint and steel are not hot enough to ignite birch bark, no matter how fine it is processed.
[5, 6] Flint and steel (with charred material) and Bow drill - Technically, an ember from these combustion devices can ignite birch bark, though humans usually do not use an ember to ignite it.
4) Tinder bundle -
Tree bark & dried grass -
[1, 2] Lighter and Matches - A lighter and matches will easily ignite both forms of processed birch bark. I recommend avoiding scrapings and sticking with torn strips when using a lighter or matches.
[3] Ferrocerium rod - A ferro rod can ignite birch scrapings and thinner torn strips, though scrapings will be easier to ignite. Torn strips can be added after igniting the scrapings to increase burn time.
[4] Flint and steel - The sparks produced by flint and steel are not hot enough to ignite birch bark, no matter how fine it is processed.
[5, 6] Flint and steel (with charred material) and Bow drill - Technically, an ember from these combustion devices can ignite birch bark, though humans usually do not use an ember to ignite it.
4) Tinder bundle -
Tree bark & dried grass -
The images above are screenshots taken from Joel V Bushcraft's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on any image will take you to the original video.
Tinder bundles are typically made from shredded tree bark or dried grass. In actuality, they can be made from anything dead, dry or fluffy. This includes feathersticks, jute twine, dry leaves, and even cotton balls and pads. Uncompressing such materials by roughing them up will expose their fibers, allowing them to catch fire more easily than if they were compressed. A tinder bundle is usually used with a combustion device that produces an ember, though other combustion devices can also be used.
Tinder bundle summary -
Tinder bundles are typically made from shredded tree bark or dried grass. In actuality, they can be made from anything dead, dry or fluffy. This includes feathersticks, jute twine, dry leaves, and even cotton balls and pads. Uncompressing such materials by roughing them up will expose their fibers, allowing them to catch fire more easily than if they were compressed. A tinder bundle is usually used with a combustion device that produces an ember, though other combustion devices can also be used.
Tinder bundle summary -
The image above was created by me in Microsoft Paint 3D.
[1, 2] Lighter and Matches - A lighter and matches can easily ignite a tinder bundle, even if it is not as well prepared.
[3] Ferrocerium rod - The sparks produced by a ferro rod are hot enough to ignite a well-prepared tinder bundle.
[4] Flint and steel - The sparks produced by flint and steel are not hot enough to ignite a tinder bundle, no matter how fine it is processed.
[5, 6] Flint and steel (with charred material) and Bow drill - Both of these combustion devices can ignite a well-processed tinder bundle with no problem.
5) Charred material -
Anything natural -
[1, 2] Lighter and Matches - A lighter and matches can easily ignite a tinder bundle, even if it is not as well prepared.
[3] Ferrocerium rod - The sparks produced by a ferro rod are hot enough to ignite a well-prepared tinder bundle.
[4] Flint and steel - The sparks produced by flint and steel are not hot enough to ignite a tinder bundle, no matter how fine it is processed.
[5, 6] Flint and steel (with charred material) and Bow drill - Both of these combustion devices can ignite a well-processed tinder bundle with no problem.
5) Charred material -
Anything natural -
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
Charred material is a delicate material that ignites easily. It can be made from anything natural, though some natural materials will work better than others for the purpose of igniting. When ignited, it produces an ember, which is usually placed inside a tinder bundle and blown to flame. I recommend scrolling up to the flint and steel section for more information about charred material.
Charred material summary -
Charred material is a delicate material that ignites easily. It can be made from anything natural, though some natural materials will work better than others for the purpose of igniting. When ignited, it produces an ember, which is usually placed inside a tinder bundle and blown to flame. I recommend scrolling up to the flint and steel section for more information about charred material.
Charred material summary -
The image above was created by me in Microsoft Paint 3D.
[1, 2] Lighter and Matches - A lighter and matches can effortlessly ignite charred material. However, humans tend not to waste combustion devices that produce a flame on such delicate materials.
[3] Ferrocerium rod - A ferro rod can easily ignite charred material, as it produces extremely hot sparks.
[4] Flint and steel - The sparks produced by flint and steel will ignite charred material.
[5, 6] Flint and steel (with charred material) and Bow drill -
[1, 2] Lighter and Matches - A lighter and matches can effortlessly ignite charred material. However, humans tend not to waste combustion devices that produce a flame on such delicate materials.
[3] Ferrocerium rod - A ferro rod can easily ignite charred material, as it produces extremely hot sparks.
[4] Flint and steel - The sparks produced by flint and steel will ignite charred material.
[5, 6] Flint and steel (with charred material) and Bow drill -
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
Both flint and steel (with charred material) and the bow drill methods produce an ember. Igniting charred material will create an ember. An ember can technically ignite charred material. However, you will just end up with two embers, which is kind of pointless. Simply holding an unlit charred material to a lit charred material will allow you to transfer the ember, as seen in image 2. This practice is only useful if you suspect your ember is about to die out. Using more charred material to extend the burn time is perfectly fine. However, using an ember to ignite charred material is not a common practice.
Honorable mentions(3) -
Both flint and steel (with charred material) and the bow drill methods produce an ember. Igniting charred material will create an ember. An ember can technically ignite charred material. However, you will just end up with two embers, which is kind of pointless. Simply holding an unlit charred material to a lit charred material will allow you to transfer the ember, as seen in image 2. This practice is only useful if you suspect your ember is about to die out. Using more charred material to extend the burn time is perfectly fine. However, using an ember to ignite charred material is not a common practice.
Honorable mentions(3) -
The images above were taken from Pixabay and are free for commercial use. Clicking on each image will take you to the original image and uploader.
Depending on your location, many other materials can be found outdoors to assist you with starting a fire. I will mention three additional materials below.
[1] Cattail - Cattail is very fluffy when uncompressed and has an extremely quick burn time. It can be placed inside a tinder bundle to assist with ignition.
[2] Pine cone/Conifer cone - A pine cone is flammable and will burn for a decent while. Humans typically throw a couple of these into a small fire to strengthen it and extend the burn time. A pinecone can also be directly ignited with a lighter or matches.
[3] Pine resin - Pine resin is flammable and can be added to a fire to extend the burn time. Pine resin can also be directly ignited with a lighter or matches.
Commercial firestarters -
Depending on your location, many other materials can be found outdoors to assist you with starting a fire. I will mention three additional materials below.
[1] Cattail - Cattail is very fluffy when uncompressed and has an extremely quick burn time. It can be placed inside a tinder bundle to assist with ignition.
[2] Pine cone/Conifer cone - A pine cone is flammable and will burn for a decent while. Humans typically throw a couple of these into a small fire to strengthen it and extend the burn time. A pinecone can also be directly ignited with a lighter or matches.
[3] Pine resin - Pine resin is flammable and can be added to a fire to extend the burn time. Pine resin can also be directly ignited with a lighter or matches.
Commercial firestarters -
The image above was taken from Pixabay and is free for commercial use. Clicking on the image will take you to the original image and uploader.
When conditions are dry, you should have very little trouble getting a fire started with natural tinders. However, wet conditions can make fire lighting tricky, especially for a novice. Supplementing commercial firestarters with natural materials will help you start a fire when conditions are wet. Commercial firestarters do not require as much preparation as natural tinders because they contain accelerants and waxes that help them burn easily and for longer periods. Below, I will cover some of the commercial firestarters that can be purchased.
1) Premium firestarters -
When conditions are dry, you should have very little trouble getting a fire started with natural tinders. However, wet conditions can make fire lighting tricky, especially for a novice. Supplementing commercial firestarters with natural materials will help you start a fire when conditions are wet. Commercial firestarters do not require as much preparation as natural tinders because they contain accelerants and waxes that help them burn easily and for longer periods. Below, I will cover some of the commercial firestarters that can be purchased.
1) Premium firestarters -
The images above were taken from the CanadianPreparedness website. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
Many companies produce firestarters that come in various shapes and sizes. I present three premium firestarters produced by the company "production hangar 51." They are of good quality and should store indefinitely, considering they are wax-fused. I will discuss each one and demonstrate how they can be ignited below. I will start with the fire strip roll.
- Fire strip roll:
Many companies produce firestarters that come in various shapes and sizes. I present three premium firestarters produced by the company "production hangar 51." They are of good quality and should store indefinitely, considering they are wax-fused. I will discuss each one and demonstrate how they can be ignited below. I will start with the fire strip roll.
- Fire strip roll:
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
The fire strip roll is a 55-foot-long roll of wax-fused fibrous paper. This particular fire starter works best with a combustion device capable of producing a flame, such as a lighter. Simply tearing a little strip from the roll and holding a lit lighter to it will cause the strip to catch and burn. The burn time will depend on the amount you use, though a small strip, as seen in image 2, should be sufficient for starting a fire.
The fire strip roll is a 55-foot-long roll of wax-fused fibrous paper. This particular fire starter works best with a combustion device capable of producing a flame, such as a lighter. Simply tearing a little strip from the roll and holding a lit lighter to it will cause the strip to catch and burn. The burn time will depend on the amount you use, though a small strip, as seen in image 2, should be sufficient for starting a fire.
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
If the strip is processed to the point where its fibers are exposed, like in image 2, it will easily catch a spark from a ferro rod and ignite. As you can see in image 4, I used my short, broken ferro rod to ignite it. A longer ferro rod should have no trouble igniting a processed strip of the fire strip roll. Unfortunately, processing the strip in this manner will cause some of the wax on it to break off, decreasing the burn time. Nonetheless, it should still give you a decent burn time.
Note: The fire strip roll will not ignite from the sparks of flint and steel or even from an ember.
If the strip is processed to the point where its fibers are exposed, like in image 2, it will easily catch a spark from a ferro rod and ignite. As you can see in image 4, I used my short, broken ferro rod to ignite it. A longer ferro rod should have no trouble igniting a processed strip of the fire strip roll. Unfortunately, processing the strip in this manner will cause some of the wax on it to break off, decreasing the burn time. Nonetheless, it should still give you a decent burn time.
Note: The fire strip roll will not ignite from the sparks of flint and steel or even from an ember.
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
One unique way you can use the fire strip roll is like a match. In the images above, I rolled up a strip of the fire strip roll and ignited one end with a lighter. Doing so allowed me to hold it to an ignitable material to ignite it. In this case, I used it to ignite a tealight candle. A fire strip roll contains waxes and accelerants, allowing it to catch fire quickly. If I were to ignite some ignitable material with a lighter directly, I would have to hold the lighter to the material for longer, using up more fuel. This method will help you preserve lighter fluid and give you the ability to start more fires.
- Fire plugs:
One unique way you can use the fire strip roll is like a match. In the images above, I rolled up a strip of the fire strip roll and ignited one end with a lighter. Doing so allowed me to hold it to an ignitable material to ignite it. In this case, I used it to ignite a tealight candle. A fire strip roll contains waxes and accelerants, allowing it to catch fire quickly. If I were to ignite some ignitable material with a lighter directly, I would have to hold the lighter to the material for longer, using up more fuel. This method will help you preserve lighter fluid and give you the ability to start more fires.
- Fire plugs:
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
A fire plug is essentially compressed, fluffy material impregnated with wax. One fire plug will burn for around four minutes, which is more than enough time to build a fire. In fact, you could even cut the plug in half to get an extra fire out of it. Igniting a fire plug as it is, in its compressed state, with a lighter will work just fine. However, in order to ignite it with a ferro rod, its fibers must be exposed, as shown in image 2. Once sufficiently uncompressed, it can even be ignited by the sparks from an empty lighter.
Note: The fire plug will not ignite from the sparks of flint and steel, but it will ignite from an ember if the plug is processed well.
- Fat rope stick:
A fire plug is essentially compressed, fluffy material impregnated with wax. One fire plug will burn for around four minutes, which is more than enough time to build a fire. In fact, you could even cut the plug in half to get an extra fire out of it. Igniting a fire plug as it is, in its compressed state, with a lighter will work just fine. However, in order to ignite it with a ferro rod, its fibers must be exposed, as shown in image 2. Once sufficiently uncompressed, it can even be ignited by the sparks from an empty lighter.
Note: The fire plug will not ignite from the sparks of flint and steel, but it will ignite from an ember if the plug is processed well.
- Fat rope stick:
Images 1, 2 & 3 are screenshots taken from ZimCo Survival's YouTube video. Image 4 is a screenshot taken from Canadian Preppers YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on any image will take you to the original video.
The fat rope stick is a wax-impregnated rope that can be prepared for ignition in two ways. You can use a blade to cut a portion of the rope, as seen in image 2, or unravel the fat rope by hand to ignite a single strand, like in image 4. Both forms of processed fat rope can be easily ignited with a lighter or a match. When using a ferro rod, both forms of the processed fat rope must be fluffed up.
Note: The updated version of the fat rope stick comes inside a wax-fused cardboard tube, which can be used to extend the burn time once you have a flame going.
2) Fatwood & Magnesium bars -
The fat rope stick is a wax-impregnated rope that can be prepared for ignition in two ways. You can use a blade to cut a portion of the rope, as seen in image 2, or unravel the fat rope by hand to ignite a single strand, like in image 4. Both forms of processed fat rope can be easily ignited with a lighter or a match. When using a ferro rod, both forms of the processed fat rope must be fluffed up.
Note: The updated version of the fat rope stick comes inside a wax-fused cardboard tube, which can be used to extend the burn time once you have a flame going.
2) Fatwood & Magnesium bars -
Image 1 was taken from TheBushcraftStore website. Image 2 was taken from the Amazon website. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate webpage.
[1] Fatwood - Fatwood is a natural tinder but is also sold as a commercial firestarter. Many outlets sell fatwood. I wanted to mention it so that you know.
[2] Magnesium bars - Magnesium is one of the many metals a ferro rod is made of, as mentioned above. Magnesium burns extremely hot when ignited, making it effective for fire lighting, especially in wet conditions.
[1] Fatwood - Fatwood is a natural tinder but is also sold as a commercial firestarter. Many outlets sell fatwood. I wanted to mention it so that you know.
[2] Magnesium bars - Magnesium is one of the many metals a ferro rod is made of, as mentioned above. Magnesium burns extremely hot when ignited, making it effective for fire lighting, especially in wet conditions.
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
Magnesium bars are unique because the bar of magnesium itself is an ignitable material. At the same time, they come with a small ferro rod attached to them, as seen in image 1. Scraping the magnesium block with a sharp edge will produce shavings, which is usually done with the striker the mag bar comes with. After accumulating a generous pile of shavings, they can be ignited by a lighter, matches or a ferro rod. An ember can technically ignite magnesium shavings, though when blowing on the ember, the shavings tend to fly away. Magnesium burns extremely hot and will ignite the most stubborn materials, though the burn time is quite short. As a result, throwing a couple of thicker feathersticks in the flame will extend the burn time.
Note: The magnesium block will last much longer than the small ferro rod attached to it. I recommend using a magnesium bar with your main ferro rod and treating the rod attached to the mag bar as a backup.
Magnesium bars are unique because the bar of magnesium itself is an ignitable material. At the same time, they come with a small ferro rod attached to them, as seen in image 1. Scraping the magnesium block with a sharp edge will produce shavings, which is usually done with the striker the mag bar comes with. After accumulating a generous pile of shavings, they can be ignited by a lighter, matches or a ferro rod. An ember can technically ignite magnesium shavings, though when blowing on the ember, the shavings tend to fly away. Magnesium burns extremely hot and will ignite the most stubborn materials, though the burn time is quite short. As a result, throwing a couple of thicker feathersticks in the flame will extend the burn time.
Note: The magnesium block will last much longer than the small ferro rod attached to it. I recommend using a magnesium bar with your main ferro rod and treating the rod attached to the mag bar as a backup.
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
Heavy winds can be an annoying disadvantage when using mag bars, as even a light gust of wind can blow your shavings away. One solution is to scrape the magnesium block inside a plastic bag and then pour the shavings out once the wind eases, as seen in image 1. Another solution is to apply a lubricant to a surface so that the shavings stick, like in image 2. You can use water or even your own saliva for this task.
Note: Magnesium shavings are sold in small packets and vials as commercial firestarters. If manually scraping a mag bar is painful, this is an option.
3) Fire gel -
Heavy winds can be an annoying disadvantage when using mag bars, as even a light gust of wind can blow your shavings away. One solution is to scrape the magnesium block inside a plastic bag and then pour the shavings out once the wind eases, as seen in image 1. Another solution is to apply a lubricant to a surface so that the shavings stick, like in image 2. You can use water or even your own saliva for this task.
Note: Magnesium shavings are sold in small packets and vials as commercial firestarters. If manually scraping a mag bar is painful, this is an option.
3) Fire gel -
Image 1 was taken from the firedragonfuel website. Images 2 & 3 are screenshots taken from Paul Kirtley's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on each image will take you to the appropriate source.
Though this particular fire gel is sold as fuel and not a commercial firestarter, it can be used as one. It is flammable, so just a splodge of gel will easily ignite and burn for a decent while. It can be effortlessly ignited with a lighter, matches or a ferro rod. If you are interested in this product, I recommend doing more of your own research. You can start by clicking on images 2 or 3 to watch Paul Kirtley's "Fire gel" video.
4) Duct tape -
Though this particular fire gel is sold as fuel and not a commercial firestarter, it can be used as one. It is flammable, so just a splodge of gel will easily ignite and burn for a decent while. It can be effortlessly ignited with a lighter, matches or a ferro rod. If you are interested in this product, I recommend doing more of your own research. You can start by clicking on images 2 or 3 to watch Paul Kirtley's "Fire gel" video.
4) Duct tape -
The images above are screenshots taken from Wilderness Innovation's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on any image will take you to the original video.
Duct tape is also not marketed as a commercial firestarter, though it can be used as one. Duct tape will catch fire and burn if a combustion device that produces a flame is used to ignite it, like a lighter or matches. This can be seen in the images above.
Duct tape is also not marketed as a commercial firestarter, though it can be used as one. Duct tape will catch fire and burn if a combustion device that produces a flame is used to ignite it, like a lighter or matches. This can be seen in the images above.
The images above are screenshots taken from David Canterbury's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on any image will take you to the original video.
If the duct tape is processed into thinner strips with exposed fibers, it will catch a spark from a ferro rod and ignite, as seen in image 3.
Honorable mentions(2) -
If the duct tape is processed into thinner strips with exposed fibers, it will catch a spark from a ferro rod and ignite, as seen in image 3.
Honorable mentions(2) -
The images above are screenshots taken from SpiritofWildWings's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
A candle can be used as a flame extender to help start a fire and can be quite effective in wet conditions. A simple tealight candle can be ignited and placed under some twigs, and once the twigs catch, the candle can be removed and extinguished so it can be reused for future fire lighting. Combustion devices that produce a flame, like a lighter and matches, will be able to ignite a candle. Other combustion devices will not work, though I have seen an IA Woodsman YouTube video in which he ignites a candle with a ferro rod. Click here to watch that video. An ember can also be used to light a candle. Click here to watch. Click here for a bonus video.
Note: The wick on cheaper tealight candles can break off after repeatedly lighting them again and again. If you are interested, you can purchase higher quality "survival" candles for this purpose.
A candle can be used as a flame extender to help start a fire and can be quite effective in wet conditions. A simple tealight candle can be ignited and placed under some twigs, and once the twigs catch, the candle can be removed and extinguished so it can be reused for future fire lighting. Combustion devices that produce a flame, like a lighter and matches, will be able to ignite a candle. Other combustion devices will not work, though I have seen an IA Woodsman YouTube video in which he ignites a candle with a ferro rod. Click here to watch that video. An ember can also be used to light a candle. Click here to watch. Click here for a bonus video.
Note: The wick on cheaper tealight candles can break off after repeatedly lighting them again and again. If you are interested, you can purchase higher quality "survival" candles for this purpose.
The images above are screenshots taken from Equip 2 Endure's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
There is also a product called "live fire" that operates in a similar fashion to a candle. It can be easily ignited with a lighter, matches or a ferro rod. Once ignited, it can be placed under some twigs, and once they catch fire, the live fire can be removed, extinguished, and kept for future fire lighting.
Additional fire starting methods -
There is also a product called "live fire" that operates in a similar fashion to a candle. It can be easily ignited with a lighter, matches or a ferro rod. Once ignited, it can be placed under some twigs, and once they catch fire, the live fire can be removed, extinguished, and kept for future fire lighting.
Additional fire starting methods -
The image above was taken from Pixabay and is free for commercial use. Clicking on the image will take you to the original image and uploader.
Depending on where you live, the natural tinders mentioned above may be hard to come by, and depending on your budget, commercial firestarters may be too expensive. As a result, I will present a few affordable options below.
1) Petroleum jelly & Cotton -
Depending on where you live, the natural tinders mentioned above may be hard to come by, and depending on your budget, commercial firestarters may be too expensive. As a result, I will present a few affordable options below.
1) Petroleum jelly & Cotton -
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
Petroleum jelly, also known as Vaseline, can be used with cotton pads to create your own firestarters. Cotton is fluffy enough to easily ignite, and petroleum jelly will increase burn time. Petroleum jelly by itself will not catch fire. If you hold a flame to it, it will just melt. However, combining it with a fibrous material, like a cotton pad, will allow it to burn for a decent while, long enough to build a fire. A lighter or matches can easily ignite vaseline-covered cotton, though dry fibers must be exposed, like in image 3, for a ferro rod to ignite it.
2) Wax & Cotton -
Petroleum jelly, also known as Vaseline, can be used with cotton pads to create your own firestarters. Cotton is fluffy enough to easily ignite, and petroleum jelly will increase burn time. Petroleum jelly by itself will not catch fire. If you hold a flame to it, it will just melt. However, combining it with a fibrous material, like a cotton pad, will allow it to burn for a decent while, long enough to build a fire. A lighter or matches can easily ignite vaseline-covered cotton, though dry fibers must be exposed, like in image 3, for a ferro rod to ignite it.
2) Wax & Cotton -
Images 1 & 2 were taken by me from my smartphone. Images 3 & 4 are screenshots taken from GMC Crafts's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on image 3 or 4 will take you to the original video.
You can also make your own firestarters by impregnating cotton with wax. A pack of tealight candles is very affordable, so you can acquire the wax from them to melt, and cotton pads can also be bought for cheap. A wax-fused cotton pad will easily ignite with a lighter or matches. The flame from these combustion devices will melt some of the wax away, causing the cotton pad to catch fire and remain lit for a decent while. When using a ferro rod, you must break some of the wax off and expose the cotton fibers for it to ignite.
3) Ash & Cotton -
You can also make your own firestarters by impregnating cotton with wax. A pack of tealight candles is very affordable, so you can acquire the wax from them to melt, and cotton pads can also be bought for cheap. A wax-fused cotton pad will easily ignite with a lighter or matches. The flame from these combustion devices will melt some of the wax away, causing the cotton pad to catch fire and remain lit for a decent while. When using a ferro rod, you must break some of the wax off and expose the cotton fibers for it to ignite.
3) Ash & Cotton -
The images above are screenshots taken from David west's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on any image will take you to the original video.
Cotton and ash can be used to create an ember. I first saw this method demonstrated in one of David West's YouTube videos. Rolling a joint using cotton and ash and vigorously rubbing it back and forth between two bits of material will cause it to heat up, producing an ember. The ember can then be placed inside a tinder bundle and blown to flame. Clicking on any image above will direct you to David's YouTube video, in which he demonstrates this method.
4) Alcohol products -
Cotton and ash can be used to create an ember. I first saw this method demonstrated in one of David West's YouTube videos. Rolling a joint using cotton and ash and vigorously rubbing it back and forth between two bits of material will cause it to heat up, producing an ember. The ember can then be placed inside a tinder bundle and blown to flame. Clicking on any image above will direct you to David's YouTube video, in which he demonstrates this method.
4) Alcohol products -
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
In a pinch, alcohol-based products like hand sanitizing gels and alcohol prep pads can be used to start a fire. They can be easily ignited with a lighter, matches or a ferro rod.
5) Steel wool -
In a pinch, alcohol-based products like hand sanitizing gels and alcohol prep pads can be used to start a fire. They can be easily ignited with a lighter, matches or a ferro rod.
5) Steel wool -
The images above are screenshots taken from TheOutdoorGearReview's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
Steel wool can be easily ignited by a lighter, matches, a ferro rod, sparks from an empty lighter, or even a magnifying lens. When ignited, it creates an ember that can be placed inside a tinder bundle and blown to flame.
Building a fire:
Steel wool can be easily ignited by a lighter, matches, a ferro rod, sparks from an empty lighter, or even a magnifying lens. When ignited, it creates an ember that can be placed inside a tinder bundle and blown to flame.
Building a fire:
The images above were taken from Pixabay and are free for commercial use. Clicking on each image will take you to the original image and uploader.
Oxygen, heat and fuel are the three key components required to start and build a fire. If it were not for oxygen, a combustion device would not be able to produce a flame, sparks or an ember. A flame, sparks and an ember produce heat, which helps ignitable material heat up and combust. Fuel is anything the fire consumes to keep itself going. Yes, ignitable material is technically fuel. There are different fuel levels, and you need all kinds to build a fire. Below, I will discuss the two main fuel categories: kindling and fuel. I will start with kindling.
Kindling -
Oxygen, heat and fuel are the three key components required to start and build a fire. If it were not for oxygen, a combustion device would not be able to produce a flame, sparks or an ember. A flame, sparks and an ember produce heat, which helps ignitable material heat up and combust. Fuel is anything the fire consumes to keep itself going. Yes, ignitable material is technically fuel. There are different fuel levels, and you need all kinds to build a fire. Below, I will discuss the two main fuel categories: kindling and fuel. I will start with kindling.
Kindling -
The images above were taken from Pixabay and are free for commercial use. Clicking on each image will take you to the original image and uploader.
Kindling is basically smaller pieces of wood you feed to a flame to help it grow in the initial fire-building stage. In doing so, it strengthens the flame and keeps it going so that it is able to accept bigger pieces of wood (fuel). Twigs and small branches fall into this "kindling" category. Logs can also be split into thin, stick-size pieces and used as kindling, as seen in image 2. Feathers can be carved on these stick-size pieces to help them catch fire easily if you are having difficulty.
Fuel -
Kindling is basically smaller pieces of wood you feed to a flame to help it grow in the initial fire-building stage. In doing so, it strengthens the flame and keeps it going so that it is able to accept bigger pieces of wood (fuel). Twigs and small branches fall into this "kindling" category. Logs can also be split into thin, stick-size pieces and used as kindling, as seen in image 2. Feathers can be carved on these stick-size pieces to help them catch fire easily if you are having difficulty.
Fuel -
The images above were taken from Pixabay and are free for commercial use. Clicking on each image will take you to the original image and uploader.
Even though ignitable material and kindling are technically fuel, fuel is typically referred to as the bigger pieces of wood that will keep a fire going for a longer period. Smaller pieces of fuel, like kindling, will burn out quickly, whereas bigger pieces of fuel will burn for much longer.
Fuel size explained -
Even though ignitable material and kindling are technically fuel, fuel is typically referred to as the bigger pieces of wood that will keep a fire going for a longer period. Smaller pieces of fuel, like kindling, will burn out quickly, whereas bigger pieces of fuel will burn for much longer.
Fuel size explained -
The images above were created by me in Microsoft Paint 3D.
This does not mean you throw the bigger pieces of fuel directly into the fire after throwing the smaller stuff in. Depending on the largest size of fuel you want to use, you may have to work your way up to it. If you throw too big a piece in a fire too soon, chances are it will not catch, and the fire will die out once it has finished consuming the smaller pieces. For the bigger pieces of fuel to catch fire, feeding the fire with something in between the kindling and fuel-sized pieces will allow the fire to burn long enough to catch the larger pieces.
Note: Building a fire can be a delicate process. You want it to be a smooth transition from the smaller pieces of wood to the bigger stuff. An abrupt change in fuel size can be detrimental to a fire.
This does not mean you throw the bigger pieces of fuel directly into the fire after throwing the smaller stuff in. Depending on the largest size of fuel you want to use, you may have to work your way up to it. If you throw too big a piece in a fire too soon, chances are it will not catch, and the fire will die out once it has finished consuming the smaller pieces. For the bigger pieces of fuel to catch fire, feeding the fire with something in between the kindling and fuel-sized pieces will allow the fire to burn long enough to catch the larger pieces.
Note: Building a fire can be a delicate process. You want it to be a smooth transition from the smaller pieces of wood to the bigger stuff. An abrupt change in fuel size can be detrimental to a fire.
The images above were taken from Pixabay and are free for commercial use. Clicking on each image will take you to the original image and uploader.
The amount of fuel you throw onto a fire is also important, especially in the beginning stages of fire-building. Adding too much fuel to a fire at once will cut off the much-needed oxygen supply, causing the fire to choke. To avoid this, only add more fuel to the fire once the flames rise above the current fuel level. In addition, if the kindling lands directly on top of the flame, it will cause the fire to go out.
How to build a fire -
The amount of fuel you throw onto a fire is also important, especially in the beginning stages of fire-building. Adding too much fuel to a fire at once will cut off the much-needed oxygen supply, causing the fire to choke. To avoid this, only add more fuel to the fire once the flames rise above the current fuel level. In addition, if the kindling lands directly on top of the flame, it will cause the fire to go out.
How to build a fire -
Images 1 & 2 are screenshots taken from CanadianPrepper's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Image 3 was created by me in Microsoft Paint 3D. Clicking on image 1 or 2 will take you to the original video.
Elevating the kindling slightly above the flame will allow the kindling to catch and provide the fire with much-needed breathing room. You want the flame to touch the kindling without the kindling sitting directly on top of it, as that would put the fire out. The lean-to method I have presented in the images above will allow you to successfully build a fire.
Elevating the kindling slightly above the flame will allow the kindling to catch and provide the fire with much-needed breathing room. You want the flame to touch the kindling without the kindling sitting directly on top of it, as that would put the fire out. The lean-to method I have presented in the images above will allow you to successfully build a fire.
The images above were taken from Pixabay and are free for commercial use. Clicking on each image will take you to the original image and uploader.
The lean-to method is not the only option. I am going to briefly mention two additional methods that you can use.
[1] Tipi - The tipi fire is the most common and is probably the one that comes to mind when you envision a fire. The smaller pieces of fuel are placed inside a tipi, which is made up of bigger pieces of fuel. Your fire should have sufficient airflow with this method, as highlighted by the triangles in image 1. As the bigger fuel catches fire, more fuel can be added to the tipi frame.
[2] Top-down - The top-down method requires a bit more preparation. The bigger pieces of fuel are placed at the bottom, and as you build your way up, the fuel should get smaller. Once this pyramid-like platform is erected, all you have to do is start a fire on the top level, as highlighted in image 2. Once you have a fire going, it will gradually burn its way down to the bigger fuel, hence the name "top-down." With this method, you do not have to constantly feed the fire, though you could if you so desired.
It can be difficult to understand how these methods work by just looking at static images. I recommend watching Canadian Prepper's YouTube video, in which he presents the lean-to, tipi, top-down and three additional methods. Click here to watch.
Building a fire in wet conditions -
The lean-to method is not the only option. I am going to briefly mention two additional methods that you can use.
[1] Tipi - The tipi fire is the most common and is probably the one that comes to mind when you envision a fire. The smaller pieces of fuel are placed inside a tipi, which is made up of bigger pieces of fuel. Your fire should have sufficient airflow with this method, as highlighted by the triangles in image 1. As the bigger fuel catches fire, more fuel can be added to the tipi frame.
[2] Top-down - The top-down method requires a bit more preparation. The bigger pieces of fuel are placed at the bottom, and as you build your way up, the fuel should get smaller. Once this pyramid-like platform is erected, all you have to do is start a fire on the top level, as highlighted in image 2. Once you have a fire going, it will gradually burn its way down to the bigger fuel, hence the name "top-down." With this method, you do not have to constantly feed the fire, though you could if you so desired.
It can be difficult to understand how these methods work by just looking at static images. I recommend watching Canadian Prepper's YouTube video, in which he presents the lean-to, tipi, top-down and three additional methods. Click here to watch.
Building a fire in wet conditions -
The image above was taken from Pixabay and is free for commercial use. Clicking on the image will take you to the original image and uploader.
Building a fire in dry conditions can be pretty straightforward. Wet conditions, however, can make it a real challenge, especially for a novice. Below, I will present some information to help you build a fire in wet conditions.
Natural canopy -
Building a fire in dry conditions can be pretty straightforward. Wet conditions, however, can make it a real challenge, especially for a novice. Below, I will present some information to help you build a fire in wet conditions.
Natural canopy -
The images above were taken from Pixabay and are free for commercial use. Clicking on each image will take you to the original image and uploader.
If you have to build a fire while it is raining, it would be wise to build it under a natural canopy, like a tree with many branches and leaves. The tree or trees will provide you with some cover from the rain.
Firelay -
If you have to build a fire while it is raining, it would be wise to build it under a natural canopy, like a tree with many branches and leaves. The tree or trees will provide you with some cover from the rain.
Firelay -
The images above are screenshots taken from Girl in the Woods's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
In wet conditions, the ground will be damp. If you build a fire on wet ground, the ground will suck the heat from the fire and cause it to go out. Building a fire on top of a dry platform made of dry wood will prevent this from happening. Smaller branches, as seen in image 2, will suffice for a smaller fire. However, you would want to use larger pieces when creating a platform for a bigger fire.
Note: A firelay is a dry platform you build a fire on top of when the ground is wet.
Selecting dry fuel -
In wet conditions, the ground will be damp. If you build a fire on wet ground, the ground will suck the heat from the fire and cause it to go out. Building a fire on top of a dry platform made of dry wood will prevent this from happening. Smaller branches, as seen in image 2, will suffice for a smaller fire. However, you would want to use larger pieces when creating a platform for a bigger fire.
Note: A firelay is a dry platform you build a fire on top of when the ground is wet.
Selecting dry fuel -
The images above are screenshots taken from Girl in the Woods's YouTube video. They are used to illustrate a point I am making. Clicking on either image will take you to the original video.
When collecting kindling for your fire in wet conditions, avoid twigs and branches lying on the ground. Attempting to build a fire using twigs and branches full of moisture will be close to impossible. Instead, break off twigs and branches that are attached to trees that are off the ground. If you are unsure whether a branch is dry enough, snap it in half. If it snaps cleanly in half, it will make good kindling. If it is hanging off by its fibers after snapping, discard it.
Note: Once you have built a fire using the dry wood, wet wood can be placed around the fire to dry out.
Accessing dry wood -
When collecting kindling for your fire in wet conditions, avoid twigs and branches lying on the ground. Attempting to build a fire using twigs and branches full of moisture will be close to impossible. Instead, break off twigs and branches that are attached to trees that are off the ground. If you are unsure whether a branch is dry enough, snap it in half. If it snaps cleanly in half, it will make good kindling. If it is hanging off by its fibers after snapping, discard it.
Note: Once you have built a fire using the dry wood, wet wood can be placed around the fire to dry out.
Accessing dry wood -
The images above were taken from Pixabay and are free for commercial use. Clicking on each image will take you to the original image and uploader.
Collecting dry twigs and branches for a small fire will suffice. However, to build a bigger, more sustainable campfire in wet conditions, you must split wood to access the inner, dry part. Chances are, the bark (the outer layer) has soaked up moisture, and some of the moisture could have even seeped into the wood it is attached to. Harvest the inner, dry part of the wood and build a fire using it. Once a fire is established, place the wet pieces of wood around the fire so they can dry out. After these pieces have dried, they can be thrown into the fire as fuel.
The amount of ignitable material required -
Collecting dry twigs and branches for a small fire will suffice. However, to build a bigger, more sustainable campfire in wet conditions, you must split wood to access the inner, dry part. Chances are, the bark (the outer layer) has soaked up moisture, and some of the moisture could have even seeped into the wood it is attached to. Harvest the inner, dry part of the wood and build a fire using it. Once a fire is established, place the wet pieces of wood around the fire so they can dry out. After these pieces have dried, they can be thrown into the fire as fuel.
The amount of ignitable material required -
The images used above were taken by me from my smartphone.
In dry conditions, you can get away with using less ignitable material to start a fire. However, using more ignitable material will give you a better chance of starting a fire in wet conditions.
Embers explained -
In dry conditions, you can get away with using less ignitable material to start a fire. However, using more ignitable material will give you a better chance of starting a fire in wet conditions.
Embers explained -
The images above were taken from Pixabay and are free for commercial use. Clicking on each image will take you to the original image and uploader.
If a fire dies out but has burned long enough, you will be left with hot embers. Fuel can be thrown on top of these embers to reestablish a fire. The immense heat from the embers will ignite the fuel placed on them. Even during the initial fire-building stage, if a flame disappears but has remained long enough to create an ember, smaller bits of fuel, like thin feathers, can be added to reignite the flame.
Note: Providing the embers with oxygen will encourage the fuel placed on top of them to catch fire.
Containing a fire -
If a fire dies out but has burned long enough, you will be left with hot embers. Fuel can be thrown on top of these embers to reestablish a fire. The immense heat from the embers will ignite the fuel placed on them. Even during the initial fire-building stage, if a flame disappears but has remained long enough to create an ember, smaller bits of fuel, like thin feathers, can be added to reignite the flame.
Note: Providing the embers with oxygen will encourage the fuel placed on top of them to catch fire.
Containing a fire -
The images above were taken from Pixabay and are free for commercial use. Clicking on each image will take you to the original image and uploader.
Some humans create a stone ring around their fires, as seen in image 2, to keep the wind from blowing the embers around. If these scorching embers start flying around, there could be a chance of an unwanted fire. If you cannot find any stones, simply digging a small hole and starting a fire inside it should work just fine.
Note: You can do without containing a fire in wet conditions. However, it is important to contain your fire when conditions are dry.
Some humans create a stone ring around their fires, as seen in image 2, to keep the wind from blowing the embers around. If these scorching embers start flying around, there could be a chance of an unwanted fire. If you cannot find any stones, simply digging a small hole and starting a fire inside it should work just fine.
Note: You can do without containing a fire in wet conditions. However, it is important to contain your fire when conditions are dry.
